A sudden stop of the refrigerator Indesit often causes panic, because this threatens damage to a large supply of food. However, in most cases, the reason lies not in complex electronics, but in the failure of one of the two key elements of the system: the motor-compressor or the start relay. These parts are responsible for starting and circulating the refrigerant, and their failure leads to complete inoperability of the unit. Before calling a technician or buying new equipment, it is worth conducting initial diagnostics, which often allows you to identify the problem yourself.
Modern models of refrigerators Indesit are equipped with reliable, but vulnerable to power surges components. The start relay, which is a small plastic block, is often the first to burn out, protecting the engine. The compressor is a more complex unit, and its inspection requires accuracy and understanding of electrical processes. In this article, we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions, the necessary tools and methods for safely testing the functionality of each element of the system.
To successfully perform diagnostics, you will need a minimum set of tools, which many home craftsmen can find. A critical instrument is a multimeter (tester), which allows you to measure the resistance of the windings and check the integrity of the circuit. You also cannot do without screwdrivers for removing the back panel, pliers and, possibly, electrical tape for marking the wires. Without these simple devices, accurate diagnosis is impossible, since a visual inspection rarely gives a complete picture of the condition of electrical components.
Primary diagnosis and visual inspection
The first stage of any diagnosis is a thorough visual inspection of the back of the refrigerator Indesit. It is necessary to disconnect the device from the power supply by unplugging the plug from the socket and gain access to the compressor compartment. Often, signs of a malfunction are visible to the naked eye: a melted relay body, blackened contacts or obvious traces of burning indicate that the problem is localized in this area.
Pay attention to the condition of the wires going to the motor. If the insulation is melted or the wires are mechanically damaged, this may be the cause of a short circuit that damages the starter. In some cases, the compressor itself may be hot to the touch, even if the refrigerator is not working, which indicates an attempt to start and subsequent blocking by the protective mechanism.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly prohibited to carry out any manipulations with electrical components while the refrigerator is connected to the network. Even after disconnecting, it is recommended to wait 5-10 minutes for the capacitors to discharge and the residual voltage in the circuit to subside.
If no external damage is detected, we proceed to a more in-depth analysis. Remove the protective cover from the compressor by unscrewing the retaining screws or removing the latches. Under the casing you will see a black cylindrical motor housing and a plastic block attached to its side - this is the start relay. This is where detailed troubleshooting most often begins, since replacing it is cheaper and easier than repairing the engine itself.
☑️ Initial inspection
Dismantling and installation of the starting relay
Starting relay in refrigerators Indesit performs the function of a switch that supplies current to the starting winding of the compressor only at the moment of startup. As soon as the engine picks up speed, the relay opens the starting winding circuit, and the motor runs on the main one. In modern models, posistor relays are most often used, inside of which there is a ceramic element (posistor), which changes its resistance when heated.
To dismantle the relay, you must carefully remove it from the three pins of the compressor. It can fit tightly, so a slight rocking from side to side is allowed, but without using excessive force, so as not to damage the contacts. The relay body usually has arrows indicating the “Up” or “Down” position, which is important to remember or photograph before complete removal, since incorrect installation of a new element will lead to its instantaneous combustion.
Having disassembled the relay body (it often consists of two halves fastened with latches), you can see the internal structure. Inside there are contacts, a spring and the posistor itself. If upon inspection you find that the contacts are blackened, stuck, or the posistor is crumbled, the part definitely requires replacement. However, even visually the entire element may not work, so an instrumental check is necessary.
Why does the relay burn out?
The most common cause of failure of the starting relay is power surges in the network or prolonged operation of the compressor under extreme conditions (for example, with a dirty condenser at the back of the refrigerator). The posistor heats up and loses its properties, ceasing to open the circuit, which leads to overload and combustion of the element.
Methodology for checking a relay with a multimeter
Checking the starting relay with a multimeter is the most reliable way to determine its suitability for further operation. Switch the device to resistance measurement mode (Ohms). If you have a posistor relay in your hands, measure the resistance between the contacts to which the posistor is connected. When cold it should be approximately 30-60 ohms. If the device shows infinity or zero, the element is faulty.
It is also necessary to check the contacts that are responsible for breaking the circuit. At rest (when the relay is not connected and inverted according to the marking), the circuit should be closed and the resistance should be close to zero. When the relay is turned to the operating position (simulating connection to the network), a click is heard and the circuit should open, showing a unit or an infinity sign on the multimeter screen. The absence of a click or a constant closure of the circuit indicates a mechanical failure.
It is important to consider that the posistor may be heated after testing. To retest, it needs to cool for 5-10 minutes, otherwise the resistance readings will be incorrect. This is a common mistake of novice craftsmen who, having received incorrect data, throw away a working part.
Diagnostics of the motor-compressor
If checking the relay did not reveal problems or replacing the part did not help, you need to check it yourself compressor. This is the “heart” of the refrigerator Indesit, and its failure is often fatal for the entire system. Diagnostics is carried out by measuring the resistance between the contacts on the block where the relay is placed. There are usually three contacts on the block: two upper and one lower (or arranged in a triangle).
Normal winding resistance values for a working compressor vary within certain limits. The resistance between the start and run windings (between the top two contacts) is usually 20–35 ohms. The resistance between the working winding and the housing (or common contact) should be in the range of 10–20 Ohms, and the starting winding – 30–40 Ohms. The sum of the resistances of the starting and operating windings should be approximately equal to the resistance between the extreme contacts.
The most dangerous sign is a breakdown on the housing. If the multimeter shows any resistance value (even a large one) between any terminal and the copper tube or compressor housing, then the insulation is broken. Operating such a refrigerator is strictly prohibitedas this creates a direct threat of electric shock.
Table of normal resistance values
For ease of comparison of the data obtained, we present a table with approximate resistance values for typical compressors installed in refrigerators Indesit. Remember that the exact numbers may vary slightly depending on the model and year of manufacture of the unit, but the order of the values should be preserved.
| Measurement parameter | Normal value (Ohm) | Fault symptom |
|---|---|---|
| Working winding | 10 - 25 Ohm | Open (infinity) or short circuit (close to 0) |
| Start winding | 25 - 45 Ohm |