How to check the compressor on an Atlant refrigerator: a complete guide

A sudden stop of the refrigerator Atlant or its inability to maintain the set temperature often causes panic. However, before calling a technician, you should try to independently determine whether the problem lies in the motor-compressor. Compressor is the heart of the cooling system, and its malfunction can be either fatal or easily fixable by replacing related parts.

Modern models Atlant equipped with reliable motors, but over time they can wear out or fail due to power surges. A competent diagnosis will allow you to save a significant amount on the purchase of new equipment if it turns out that the problem can be solved by replacing the start relay or thermostat.

In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will help you understand the condition unit without complex laboratory equipment. You will learn to distinguish between the symptoms of mechanical failure and electrical failure using a regular household multimeter.

Visual assessment and initial inspection

Any diagnosis begins with an external examination, which often reveals obvious signs of a malfunction. Unplug the refrigerator and carefully move it away to gain access to the back wall. Carefully inspect Atlant from the mains and carefully move it away to gain access to the rear wall. Inspect carefully compressor for mechanical damage, dents or traces of oil.

If you notice oily smudges in the lower part of the engine or on the tubes, this is an alarming signal. Tightness the housing is broken, which means leakage of refrigerant and oil, as well as moisture entering the system. In this case, the engine will most likely have to be replaced entirely, since restoring the tightness in a domestic environment is impossible.

Pay attention to the condition of the electrical wires going to the engine. They should not be melted, frayed or have traces of oxidation on the contacts. Also check for rust on the metal elements of the casing, which could cause a short circuit.

⚠️ Attention! If you find a strong burning smell or visible traces of soot on the relay or wires, carry out further diagnostics with extreme caution, since there is a high risk of fire when turned on again.

Often the reason for the “silence” of the refrigerator is a banal sticking of contacts or a blown fuse in the plug, if it is equipped with a reset button. Make sure that the voltage in the outlet is stable and normal 220-230 V.

Diagnostics of the starting relay and thermostat

Before “sinning” on the motor itself, it is necessary to eliminate the possibility of failure of the starting relay. It is this small block that is responsible for starting the rotor and operating it normally. Refrigerators Atlant often use relays of the series RT or P-600.

Remove the plastic casing from the compressor and carefully disconnect relay Shake it near your ear: if you hear a rattling sound, similar to the sound of a rattle, then the internal coil or core is damaged. Such an element is subject to immediate replacement.

  • 🔌 Inspect the relay contacts for carbon deposits or oxidation, clean them if necessary.
  • 🔍 Check the integrity of the thermocouple if the refrigerator model assumes its presence in the start circuit.
  • 🧊 Make sure that the thermostat is working properly by closing its contacts temporarily to check that the engine starts.

If the relay is working properly, but the compressor still does not start or hums for a few seconds and turns off, the problem may be deeper. Often in such cases, the thermal protection inside the motor itself is triggered due to an interturn short circuit or a wedge.

📊 What symptom is observed in your refrigerator?
Does not turn on at all
Buzzes and turns off
Works, but does not freezes
Gets very hot at the back

It is important to understand that a working relay provides a short-term impulse for starting. If this does not happen, the rotor remains stationary, and the current in the windings increases, causing heating and subsequent shutdown of the protection system.

Checking the motor windings with a multimeter

The most accurate method of electrical diagnostics is continuity windings using a multimeter. To do this, you need to remove the terminal box cover on the compressor and gain access to the three contacts. Switch the device to resistance measurement mode (Ohm).

Find a common contact (usually it is located separately from a couple of others or marked with a letter C). Measure the resistance between the common contact and the other two. In a working engine Atlant the resistance of the starting winding will be higher than the working winding.

Working winding: 10-20 Ohm

Starting winding: 30-50 Ohm

Between windings: Sum of values

If the device shows one (infinity), it means that something happened in the winding break. If the resistance is close to zero, a short circuit has occurred. In both cases, the engine is considered faulty and requires replacement.

⚠️ Attention! Never take resistance measurements while the refrigerator is connected to the mains. This will cause immediate damage to the multimeter and possible electric shock.

You should also check the resistance between any of the contacts and the copper tube or compressor housing. The device should show infinity. If there is at least some value, it means that breakdown to the bodyoccurred, which is mortally dangerous for the user.

Measurement of current consumption

Electrical resistance is not the only parameter you need to know. A more complete picture is provided by measuring the current consumed by the engine during startup and operation. To do this, you will need current clamps.

Connect the refrigerator to the network and quickly cover one of the power wires (phase or neutral) with clamps immediately after turning it on. At the moment of start, the current may be high, but it should quickly drop to nominal values.

For different models Atlant with compressors Danfoss or Secop normal values ​​may differ. Compare the data obtained with the tabular ones:

Compressor power Normal current (A) Starting current (A) Status
1/6 hp (100 W) 0.5 - 0.7 up to 3.5 Normal
1/5 hp. (130 W) 0.7 - 0.9 up to 4.5 Normal
1/4 hp. (160 W) 0.9 - 1.1 up to 5.5 Normal
Any power > 1.5 (working) > 6.0 Wedge/Short

If the operating current significantly exceeds the rated current indicated on the nameplate, this indicates a difficult start, wear of the mechanical part or turn-to-turn short circuit. Long-term operation in this mode will lead to overheating and final failure.

Mechanical check: jamming of the piston group

There are cases when the electrical part is completely intact: the windings are intact, the current is normal, the relay is working, but the compressor does not start, only a dull hum. This is a sure sign that the piston group is jammed inside the sealed casing.

There is a “wedging” method, which helps in 50% of cases. Its essence is to supply voltage directly to the working winding, bypassing the starting relay and thermal protection. This should be done briefly, no more than 3-5 seconds.

To implement this method, assemble a cord with a plug and two crocodiles. Connect it to the contacts of the working and starting windings (the connection diagram depends on the type of compressor; a short-term connection of all three contacts is often required). A sharp impulse can tear the pistons out of place.

⚠️ Attention! This method is dangerous and requires skills in working with 220V electricity. If unsuccessful, insulation breakdown or tube rupture is possible. If you are not confident in your abilities, do not take risks.

If after several attempts the motor does not come to life and does not make a characteristic unlocking sound, most likely the wear of the mechanical components is critical. In this case, further resuscitation does not make sense.

Why does jamming occur?

The main reason is the loss of properties of the compressor oil or moisture entering the system, which leads to the formation of acids and varnish deposits on parts.

Analysis of noise and vibration of the operating unit

If the refrigerator Atlant turns on and freezes, but makes strange sounds, this is also a reason to check. The nature of the noise can tell a lot about the technical condition of compressor.

A metal clang or knock often indicates that the connecting rod bearings have worn out or the suspension of the motor itself inside the casing has collapsed. The hum may intensify if the compressor touches the walls of the housing or tubes.

  • 🔊 Uniform humming is the normal operation of a good engine.
  • 🔨 Knocking and clanging is wear of the crank mechanism.
  • 🐍 Hissing - freon leakage or oil operation in the system (if there is sound inside).

Excessive vibration of the housing may indicate that the shock-absorbing springs on which the motor is suspended have burst or jumped off. In this case, the motor hits the walls of the casing, which will eventually lead to the destruction of the tubes.

☑️ Noise diagnostics

Done: 0 / 4

Sometimes extraneous sounds do not come from the compressor itself, but from rattling tubes or housing panels. Lightly pressing your hand against the motor casing will help you understand whether it is a source of vibration.

When a compressor replacement is necessary

Making a decision on replacement motor-compressor should only be done after a comprehensive check. If a break or short circuit of the windings, a breakdown on the housing or a mechanical wedge is confirmed, repair is impossible.

Replacement is also necessary if the compressor works, but does not create sufficient pressure for freon circulation. This is checked by a pressure gauge station: there should be a vacuum on the suction tube, and high pressure on the discharge tube.

When installing a new unit, it is imperative to replace the filter-drier and evacuate the system. Neglect of these rules will lead to rapid breakdown of a new, newly installed compressor.

The cost of a new original compressor Atlant or its analogue can be a significant part of the price of a new refrigerator, so sometimes it is more advisable to consider purchasing new equipment, especially if the old one is more than 10 years old.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to repair a hermetic compressor yourself?

Theoretically, it is possible, if you carefully cut off the casing with a grinder, find the fault (for example, replace the valve) and weld it back. However, in practice, it is impossible to ensure factory tightness and cleanliness of the home system. Such repairs will not last long.

Why is the compressor hot, but the refrigerator does not freeze?

This indicates that the motor is running, but the refrigerant is not circulating. Reasons: freon leak, clogged capillary tube or loss of performance of the compressor itself (valve wear).

Which compressor is better to replace the burned one: Atlant or Danfoss?

Both options are good. Atlant - native option, will install without problems pipes. Danfoss (Secop) is considered quieter and more reliable, but may require re-welding of pipes or the use of adapters.

How much does it cost to diagnose a compressor in a service?

The cost of on-site diagnostics varies, but often it is free, subject to subsequent repair. The check itself takes the technician about 20-30 minutes.