Sudden stoppage of operation of the refrigeration unit or characteristic clicks when trying to start often indicate problems with the start-protective device. Owners of equipment Beko often encounter a situation where the motor-compressor hums, but cannot start, or turns on for only a few seconds. In such cases, the first suspect becomes compressor relay, which is responsible for supplying voltage to the motor windings and protecting it from overloads.
Independent diagnostics of this element allows you to save a significant amount on calling a technician, since the verification procedure is quite simple and does not require deep engineering knowledge. However, before starting any work, it is necessary to strictly observe safety precautions and completely de-energize the household appliance by unplugging the plug from the socket.
In this article we will analyze in detail the device of the trigger mechanism, the algorithm for its removal and methods for checking the integrity of contacts and coils using a multimeter. You will learn to distinguish between the symptoms of a breakdown of the relay itself and a malfunction of the compressor, which is a critical step before purchasing spare parts.
Signs of a faulty starter
The first step in diagnosis is visual and auditory observation of the operation of the refrigerator. If starting relay fails, the unit often makes loud clicking noises every 10–20 seconds. This indicates that the protection is triggered due to the impossibility of starting the rotor or the absence of an open circuit in the starting winding.
Another clear sign is the absence of the characteristic hum of the motor when connected to the network. When in good condition, you should hear a brief hum and a startup click. If there is silence or only a crackling sound is heard, then relay contacts they could oxidize or burn, interrupting the power circuit.
⚠️ Attention: If after the click you smell a burning smell or see sparking in the back of the refrigerator, immediately stop trying to turn on and turn off device from the network. Operation with a faulty relay can lead to burnout of the compressor windings.
It is also worth paying attention to the temperature of the compressor housing. If it reaches very high temperatures within a short time of operation, this indicates that the motor is operating in overload mode. Often the cause is jamming of the contacts in the closed state, which is why the starting winding remains energized constantly.
Design and location of the relay in Beko refrigerators
In most refrigerator models Beko the starting protection device is located directly on the compressor housing, in its lower part, at the back. It is covered with a plastic casing, which must be removed to access the electrical part. Structurally, the relay is a plastic case, inside of which there are contacts, an inductor and a bimetallic plate.
There are two main types of such devices installed on equipment of this brand. Induction (electromagnetic) relays work by creating a magnetic field in a coil when current passes, which retracts the core and closes the contacts. Thermal (bimetallic) relays open the circuit when the plate is heated, if the current exceeds the norm.
Differences between induction and thermal relays
An inductive relay operates instantly when current is applied, creating an impulse to start. The thermal relay operates more slowly and serves rather to protect against overheating, opening the circuit during prolonged overload. Modern Beko models often use combined devices that combine both functions.
For correct diagnosis, it is important to understand the markings of the contacts. Typically, the housing bears the designations S (Start - starting winding), R (Run - working winding) and C (Common - common wire). Incorrect connection or confusion of these terminals during reassembly will lead to instant failure of the new part.
Dismantling the relay for testing
Before proceeding with testing the contacts, the device must be removed. The dismantling process in refrigerators Beko is standardized, but requires care. First, the rear protective panel of the unit is removed, opening access to the compressor.
Next, you should disconnect the wires going to the relay. They can be fixed with terminals or simply sit tightly on the contacts. Do not pull on the wires - use pliers to carefully remove the terminals so as not to break the wires. After this, the fixing bracket or spring holding the relay to the compressor terminals is removed.
☑️ Procedure for dismantling the relay
After removing the device, carefully inspect its body. The presence of melts, cracks or traces of burning on the plastic casing and the inside indicates that checking the relay with a multimeter may no longer be needed - the element requires replacement. Also check the condition of the contacts for oxidation.
Diagnostics with a multimeter: step-by-step instructions
The most accurate way to check the health of the element is to use a digital multimeter in resistance measurement mode (Ohm). Before starting measurements, make sure that the probes of the device are in good condition and the battery is charged. Move the switch to position 200 Ohm or to the dialing icon.
The test begins with assessing the condition of the coil. Place the test leads on the corresponding contacts on the relay. The resistance must be within a certain range, usually from 30 to 150 ohms, depending on the model. If the device shows one or infinity, then there is an open circuit.
Pay special attention to checking the contacts for sticking. In normal condition (relay removed from the compressor and inverted), the starting circuit contacts should be open. If the multimeter shows a short circuit (0 ohms) where there should be an open circuit, then the contacts are welded or stuck.
For thermal relays, checking the bimetallic plate is also important. It should open the circuit when heated, but at room temperature the circuit resistance should be minimal (close to zero). If the circuit is broken in a cold state, the protective mechanism has already worked or is broken.
Table of typical resistance values
For ease of diagnosis, below is a table with approximate resistance values for various types of relays used in technology Beko. Please remember that actual readings may vary slightly depending on the ambient temperature.
| Relay type | Circuit under test | Normal resistance | Fault symptom |
|---|---|---|---|
| Induction (starting) | Coil | 30 - 60 Ohm | Infinity (break) |
| Thermal (protective) | Bimetallic plate | 0 – 1 Ohm | Open circuit to cold |
| Combined | Between contacts S and R | Depends on the circuit | Short circuit |
| Any type | Case and contacts | Infinity | Any value (breakdown) |
If your The measurements are radically different from the tabular data, it is necessary to look for the reason. Often, problems with coil resistance are associated with internal overheating, which could be caused by power surges.
⚠️ Attention: Relay specifications may vary depending on the specific compressor series. If you are not sure of the device readings, check the technical documentation for a specific refrigerator model or consult an official service.
It is also important to check that there is no breakdown in the housing. Attach one probe to any contact and the other to the metal part of the case (if there is one) or the ground terminal. The device should show infinite resistance. The presence of conductivity indicates an insulation failure.
Replacement and installation of a new element
If the diagnostics reveal a malfunction, the only solution remains relay replacement. You should purchase a new part strictly according to the catalog number indicated on the body of the old device. Universal relays may not be suitable in terms of current characteristics or mounting geometry.
Installation is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. Insert the relay onto the compressor terminals until it stops. It is important to observe the orientation: there is usually an arrow on the case indicating the direction UP (up). Incorrect installation may result in the gravity mechanism not working.
After fixing the device, connect the wires according to the photograph or diagram taken earlier. Make sure the terminals are tight and not loose. Install the retaining bracket and return the compressor protective casing to its place.
The final stage will be a test run. Plug in the refrigerator and listen. The motor should start with a characteristic hum, after a few seconds the click should repeat (disconnection of the starting winding), and the unit will go into operating mode.
Is it possible to temporarily start a refrigerator without a relay?
Theoretically, you can start a compressor without a starting relay by forcibly closing the contacts of the starting winding for a short time. However, it is strictly not recommended to do this at home. Without thermal protection, the compressor will quickly overheat and burn out, and the risk of electric shock during such an operation is extremely high.
Why does the new relay burn out after a few days?
If the replacement did not help and the new device fails, the problem may lie in the compressor itself. The interturn short circuit of the motor windings creates an increased starting current, which burns the relay contacts. Also, the cause may be a malfunction of the thermostat, causing the motor to work without interruption.
Where can I find the catalog number of the relay for Beko?
The part number is usually stamped on the plastic body of the relay itself or pasted on a special tag. Information can also be found in the refrigerator service documentation. You need to look for markings starting with letters or numbers, for example RT, P or 306.
Does the room temperature affect the operation of the relay?
Yes, bimetallic plates of thermal relays are sensitive to ambient temperature. In a very hot room, the protection threshold may decrease and the refrigerator will turn off frequently. In a cold garage, on the contrary, starting may be difficult due to the solidification of the oil and changes in the properties of the metal.