A sudden stop of the Stinol refrigerator compressor often causes panic, especially when food begins to melt in the chamber. In most cases, the cause of the malfunction is not the motor-compressor itself, but its “insurer” - the start-up protection relay. This small but critical element is responsible for starting the engine and protecting the windings from overheating. If you hear a characteristic click, after which the refrigerator hums for several seconds and goes silent, or the motor does not make any sounds at all, there is a high probability that the problem lies in this unit.
Relay diagnostics on models Stinol is accessible even to an unprofessional technician with a basic set of tools. Modern household appliances of the Stinol 101, 102, 104, 107 i Stinol-103 series are often equipped with standard components, which simplifies the search for spare parts. Understanding the operating principle of this device will allow you to save a significant amount on calling a technician or buying a new compressor, which in 90% of cases turns out to be fully operational.
Before you begin disassembling, you must clearly understand that working with electrical appliances requires compliance with basic safety rules. Any manipulations with electrical circuits are carried out only after the unit is completely disconnected from the network. In this article, we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions, methods for testing contacts with a multimeter and visually assessing the condition of the thermoelement, so that you can confidently diagnose a breakdown.
Symptoms of a faulty starting relay
You can determine that the relay has failed by a number of indirect signs that manifest themselves in the behavior of the refrigeration unit. The clearest indicator of a problem is the cyclical operation of the motor: it tries to start, makes a humming sound, after 3-5 seconds a loud click is heard, and then silence ensues. After some time, the cycle repeats. This is a classic picture of how starting relay cannot close the circuit of the starting winding or break it in time.
Sometimes the situation looks different: the compressor works continuously without turning off, but the temperature in the chambers does not drop to the required values. In this case, the contacts inside the relay could “stick” in the closed state, due to which the starting winding is constantly energized, which leads to overheating and eventual combustion of the engine. You should also be alert to the specific smell of burning or melted plastic coming from the lower rear part of the case.
⚠️ Attention: If after clicking the relay you smell a strong burning smell or see sparking, immediately unplug the refrigerator from the outlet. Operating the device with faulty starting equipment can lead to a wiring fire or complete failure of an expensive compressor.
An additional sign may be strong vibration or heating of the relay itself when touched (although touching a working device under voltage is dangerous). In models Stinol with relay type RCT or RTP blackening of the housing or the appearance of carbon deposits on the contact group is often observed, which is visible during an initial visual inspection without instruments.
- 🔊 The compressor hums for 3-5 seconds, then a click follows and shutdown.
- 🔥 The relay body has traces of melting, soot or deformation.
- ❄️ The refrigerator works constantly, but does not freeze (the contacts are stuck).
- ⚡ When turned on, the circuit breaker in the panel is knocked out.
Preparation for diagnostics and dismantling
To carry out a high-quality test, you will need a minimum set of tools: Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, pliers and, most importantly, multimeter (tester) in resistance measurement mode. Before starting work, the Stinol refrigerator must be moved away from the wall, providing access to the rear grille. Disconnect the power cord from the outlet and let the unit stand for 10-15 minutes so that the residual voltage in the circuits dissipates.
Removing the compressor protective casing usually does not cause difficulties. Depending on the model Stinol, the plastic or metal box can be secured with latches or screws. Carefully remove the lid, being careful not to damage the fragile plastic clips, which can be dry on older refrigerators. Under the casing you will see a black “barrel” of the compressor, to which a plastic block is attached to the side or top - this is the relay you are looking for.
The relay itself is removed by carefully disconnecting the terminal block and pulling the housing from the compressor rod. On some models, the relay is fixed with a metal bracket that needs to be bent. It is important to remember or photograph the position of the wires before disconnecting them, although modern markings and connector shapes usually eliminate assembly errors. Remove the relay from the housing, paying attention to the condition of the contacts.
☑️ Checklist for preparing for repairs
Visual inspection and initial assessment
The first thing to do after removing the relay from its seat is to carefully inspect its external view The device body must be intact, without cracks or traces of thermal effects. If you see that the plastic has blackened, melted or changed its geometric shape, further checking with a multimeter may be unnecessary - the element is guaranteed to be faulty and requires replacement.
Shake the relay near your ear. Nothing should rattle inside a working device. If you hear a rattling noise, this indicates that contacts or mechanical parts have become loose and are loose inside. In relays with a posistor (solid-state), such a sound is uncharacteristic, there is silence. A loud knock inside the body of the electromechanical relay is a sure sign of destruction of the contact group.
Inspect the contact pads on the relay itself and the mating pins on the compressor. They must be clean, free of oxides and soot. Green or white deposits on the contacts indicate oxidation, which increases resistance and prevents normal starting. Light deposits can be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper or an eraser, but if the contact metal is burnt out, it is easier to replace the entire assembly.
Types of relays in Stinol refrigerators
In Stinol refrigerators, two types of relays are most often found: electromagnetic (with a coil and a movable core, often marked RT, RTP) and posistor (solid-state, marking P-3, RCT). Electromagnetic ones are noisier and subject to mechanical wear, while posistor ones are considered more reliable, but sensitive to power surges in the network.
Technical check with a multimeter
The most accurate result is obtained by instrumental diagnostics using ohmmeter. Switch the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (200 Ohm or 2 kOhm limit). To check the electromechanical relay, it is necessary to ring the main pairs of contacts. The resistance between the input and output of the power circuit (main winding) should be close to zero if the contacts are closed, or infinity if they are open (depending on the type and condition).
Pay special attention to checking the posistor if you have a solid-state relay. In a cold state, the resistance between the posistor contacts should be several tens of ohms (usually from 15 to 50 ohms). If the device shows one (open) or zero (short circuit), the starting element is faulty.
For electromagnetic relays, it is important to check the starting winding coil. The coil resistance is usually 20-60 ohms. If the multimeter shows a break, it means the coil is burnt out. The heat splitter is also checked: in a cold state it should ring (resistance is close to 0), and when heated (if it is possible to gently warm it up with a hairdryer without melting the body), open the circuit.
| Test type | Normal reading | Symptom malfunction | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Coil resistance | 20 - 60 Ohm | Infinity (1) or 0 | Relay relay |
| Posistor contacts | 15 - 50 Ohm (cold) | Open or short circuit | Replacing the relay |
| Thermal protection | 0 Ohm (closed) | Open in cold state | Replacing the relay |
| Mechanics | Silence when shaking | Rumbling, rattling | Relay replacement |
⚠️ Attention: Multimeter readings may vary slightly depending on ambient temperature and device model. If the coil resistance differs from the nominal value by more than 20%, the element is considered defective. Do not try to repair the internal filling of the relay - this is a disposable unit.
Checking the compressor for a short circuit
Before installing a new relay, it is critically important to make sure that the burnt element has not become a victim of a more serious problem - breakdown of the windings of the compressor itself. If you put a new relay on a short-circuited motor, it will burn out after a few seconds of operation. To check, remove the terminal block from the three pins of the compressor.
Ring each pair of pins together. You should have three measurements: between top and left, top and right, left and right (location varies by model). In a working motor, you will get three resistance values: the starting winding, the running winding, and the sum of both (between the extreme contacts). The sum of the two smaller resistances should be equal to the largest.
Also be sure to check the “breakdown to the body”. Touch one probe of the multimeter to any pin on the compressor and the other to a clean metal part of the housing (where there is no paint) or copper tubing. The device should show infinity. If there is any resistance or squeaking, the compressor is faulty, and replacing the relay will not help, the motor needs to be replaced.
Replacement and installation of a new relay
When choosing a replacement, focus not only on the brand Stinol, but also on the marking of the old relay. Complete analogues are series relays RCT, RTP, RZ or universal kits, complete with a terminal block. Universal relays often have a longer wire that can be cut to size, making installation easier.
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal. Securely push the relay onto the compressor pins until you hear a characteristic click or stop. Make sure that the relay is positioned strictly vertically (the UP arrow should point up), since many models only work in a certain spatial position due to the gravitational mechanism for closing the contacts.
Connect the wires to the terminal block according to the color markings or the photograph taken earlier. Typically, the red or brown wire is phase, blue is neutral, and yellow-green is ground. After assembly, do not rush to close the casing. Plug in the refrigerator and listen: there should be a confident start, the hum of a running motor and the absence of repeated clicks.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to temporarily short-circuit the relay so that the refrigerator can be completed before the technician arrives?
Theoretically, you can start the motor by applying voltage directly to the starting winding through a button or capacitor, but it is strictly not recommended to do this without skills. You risk burning the compressor windings, since there will be no protection. It is better to wait for a technician or replace the relay with a new one.
Why does a new relay burn out a week after replacement?
There may be several reasons: unstable voltage in the network (a stabilizer is needed), incorrect installation of the relay (not in the arrow direction), or, worst of all, a “stuck” compressor that consumes a starting current higher than normal. It is also possible that the new relay itself is of poor quality.
Which brand of relay is better to install on Stinol: original or analogue?
Original relays Indesit/Stinol are difficult to find, since production has stopped. High-quality analogues from Danfoss (now Secop) or proven universal Chinese brands (for example, Or) perform well. The main thing is compliance with the current characteristics.
A click is heard, but the compressor does not start. Is this really a relay?
Not necessarily. The clicking noise may be generated by the thermal protection relay, cutting off power due to overheating or overload. This may indicate either a malfunction of the relay itself, or an interturn short circuit in the compressor or problems with the wiring.
Do the relay contacts need to be lubricated during installation?
No, modern contacts have a special silver or other coating. The use of lubricants, alcohols or cleaning agents may destroy the coating or collect dust, resulting in poor contact. Install dry and clean parts.