When ice begins to accumulate in the chamber No Frost and products lose freshness, the first thing an experienced technician will do is suspects a malfunction of the defrost system. The central element of this system is a tubular electric heater, or simply heating element. In refrigerators Atlant, as in many other models, it is responsible for melting the ice on the evaporator during pauses in the operation of the compressor. If this element fails, a coat of ice builds up, blocking the air circulation channels, which leads to an increase in temperature inside the refrigerator and freezer compartments.
Checking the heating element is not a complicated procedure that requires deep knowledge of electrical engineering, but it requires care and compliance with safety rules. You don't have to be a professional engineer to conduct an initial diagnosis and understand whether you need to call a technician or buy spare parts. Diagnostics often comes down to a visual inspection and a simple resistance measurement with a multimeter. In this article, we will analyze in detail all the stages of the test so that you can independently eliminate the cause of the breakdown.
It is worth noting that before starting any work, you must completely disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical network. This critical conditionignoring may result in electric shock or damage to the unit's electronics. Only after making sure that the cord is unplugged from the socket can you begin to disassemble the panels and gain access to the internal components of the defrost system.
Symptoms of defrost heater malfunction
You can understand that the heating element has stopped performing its function long before you get to the internal structure of the refrigerator. The main symptom is the formation of a large amount of ice on the back wall of the freezer or, in some cases, the appearance of ice in the refrigerator compartment. The system No Frost stops coping with moisture removal, and air stops circulating properly.
In addition to visual signs, there are other symptoms that indicate heating problems. If you notice that the refrigerator is running almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but the inside is still warmer than set by the regulator, this is an alarming signal. The compressor wears out, as the thermostat does not detect the achievement of the required parameters due to the insulating layer of ice on the sensors.
- ❄️ Freezing of a “coat” or block of ice on the back wall of the freezer, preventing the drawers from closing.
- 🌡️ Increase in temperature in the refrigerator compartment during normal operation motor.
- 🔊 Increased noise during operation or the appearance of extraneous sounds of ice coming off (crackling).
- 💧 The appearance of water on the floor near the refrigerator due to the drain pan being overfilled with melt water.
It is important to distinguish the breakdown of the heating element from other faults, such as failure of the timer defrost or thermostat. If the heater is intact but does not turn on, the problem may be in the control circuit. However, statistics show that it is the burnout of the nichrome spiral inside the tube that is the most common cause of system failure.
Preparation for diagnostics and necessary tools
Before you begin disassembling the case, you need to prepare a workplace and tools. You will need free space to accommodate the removed shelves and panels, as well as good lighting. The main part of the work will take place inside the freezer, so access to it should be convenient.
To carry out high-quality diagnostics, you will need a minimum set of tools. The main device will be multimeter (tester), which will allow you to measure the resistance of the circuit. Without this device, the check will be of a mere nature. Also prepare screwdrivers (phillips and flat), since fasteners in refrigerators Atlant may differ in the type of slot.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to defrost the refrigerator if there is ice in the chamber. An attempt to remove a plastic panel frozen to the ice will lead to breakage of the fasteners or damage to the evaporator.
It would be a good idea to prepare a container for collecting water that may remain in the drainage system, and a rag for wiping the internal surfaces. If your multimeter's batteries are low, replace them early to ensure clear and reliable readings on the screen. The accuracy of measurements directly depends on the serviceability of the measuring device.
☑️ Preparation for repair
Access to the heating element: disassembling the Atlant refrigerator
You can usually get to the heating element in refrigerators Atlant with a system No Frost through the freezer. Depending on the specific model, access can be achieved by removing the rear panel inside the camera or by removing the top cover of the unit. In most modern models, it is enough to remove the inner rear wall of the freezer.
The process begins by removing all drawers, shelves and guides that may interfere with access to the panel fastening screws. Be careful with plastic latches - they can be fragile, especially if the plastic has had time to cool. It is recommended to let the plastic warm up a little or act slowly and without sudden jerks.
After removing the panel, you will see the evaporator - a radiator entangled in tubes. The heating element in models Atlant is most often located in the lower part of the evaporator or encircles its lower part in the form of a loop. It can be open or closed with an additional protective casing. If the heater is hidden, you will need to remove this protection by unscrewing the corresponding screws.
Difficulties during disassembly
In some Atlant models, access to the heating element is possible only after complete dismantling of the freezer. To do this, you need to remove the top cover of the refrigerator, disconnect the fan and sensor wires, and then carefully lift the chamber itself. This is a more difficult path that requires an assistant.
When you have visual access to the heating element, conduct an initial inspection. Look for obvious signs of damage: blistering, blackening, cracks in the tube, or melted areas of wire insulation. If there are no visual defects, this does not mean serviceability - the break of the spiral inside the sealed tube is not visible to the eye.
Visual and instrumental check of the heating element
The most reliable way to check is to use a multimeter in resistance measurement mode (Ohm). Before connecting the probes, be sure to disconnect the power terminals from the heating element to prevent the influence of other circuit elements on the device readings. Set the multimeter switch to the limit of 2 kOhm (2000 Ohm).
Touch the heater contacts with the probes. A working heating element should show a resistance in the range from 200 to 600 Ohms, depending on the power and model of the refrigerator Atlant. If the screen displays one (infinity), it means that the circuit is in breakand the spiral has burned out. If the device shows zero or a value close to zero, this indicates a short circuit.
It is also necessary to check the breakdown on the housing. Switch the multimeter to the “diagnosis” mode (with a sound signal) or resistance measurement to the maximum limit. Touch the contact of the heating element with one probe, and the metal tube of the heater with the other. Is the device silent or shows infinity? This is good. If a squeak is heard or numbers appear, the heating element “pierces” the body, and its use is dangerous.
| Multimeter reading | Diagnosis | Actions |
|---|---|---|
| 200 - 600 Ohm | Normal resistance | The heating element is working, look for the cause in the timer or thermostat |
| 1 (infinity) | Open circuit | Replacement of the heating element (burnt out spiral) |
| 0 Ohm | Short circuit | Replacement of the heating element (closed turns) |
| Signal when dialing to the body | Breakdown insulation | Urgent replacement (life-threatening) |
Remember that even if the resistance is normal, but the heating element does not heat when voltage is applied, the problem may be poor contact in the terminal block. Oxidized contacts create a high contact resistance, which prevents the passage of current. Clean the contacts with sandpaper or replace the terminals if they are melted.
Replacing a faulty heating element
If diagnostics confirm a malfunction, the only solution is replacement. You can buy a new heating element for a refrigerator Atlant in stores of spare parts for household appliances, specifying the model of your unit (indicated on the nameplate inside the chamber). Do not try to repair a burnt heating element by soldering or twisting - this is temporary and unsafe.
The replacement process begins with dismantling the old element. Unscrew the fasteners (bolts or brackets) holding the heating element and carefully remove it. Be careful not to damage the aluminum evaporator fins, as repairing them will require sophisticated equipment. Install the new heater in the reverse order, securing it securely in place.
Pay special attention to connecting the wires. Make sure that the insulation is not pinched by the body or sharp edges of the panels. After assembling all the panels and installing the drawers, you can plug in the refrigerator. The first defrost cycle may take some time, so do not be alarmed if the ice does not disappear instantly.
⚠️ Attention: The design of evaporators and heating element mounts may differ in different Atlant models. Do not use excessive force during installation so as not to deform the refrigerant pipes.
After replacement, it is recommended to check the operation of the refrigerator during the day. Make sure that a new layer of ice does not form on the walls, and that the temperature in the chambers stabilizes at the set values. If the problem recurs, it is possible that it is not the heating element itself that is faulty, but the control board or the defrost sensor.
Frequently asked questions and prevention of breakdowns
In order for the defrost system to serve for a long time, it is important not only to repair it correctly, but also to follow the operating rules. Do not place warm food in the freezer as this will lead to increased condensation and ice formation. Regularly check the tightness of the sealing rubber on the doors - moist air enters through the cracks and settles on the evaporator.
It is also worth mentioning the importance of keeping the drainage hole clean. If it is clogged with debris or ice, the melting water does not go into the pan, but freezes below, gradually blocking the operation of the heating element. Clean the channel with warm water or soft wire every time there is complete defrosting.
- 🧊 Do not use sharp objects (knives, screwdrivers) to chip ice - there is a high risk of breaking through the evaporator.
- 🔌 Monitor the stability of the voltage in the network, surges can damage the defrost control electronics.
- 🧼 Once every six months, wipe the back wall of the chamber with a damp cloth to remove dust and dirt.
Timely replacement of a failed heating element will avoid more serious problems, such as compressor failure due to overheating. Repairing the system No Frost with your own hands is possible if you act consistently and carefully. Your refrigerator Atlant will serve for many years if you are attentive to its signals.
Is it possible to temporarily operate a refrigerator without a heating element?
Technically, the refrigerator will freeze, but its operating efficiency will drop sharply. The ice layer will grow, blocking airflow, causing food to defrost and overloading the compressor. Long-term operation in this mode is unacceptable.
Why did the new heating element burn out after a week?
Most often this indicates a malfunction of the defrost thermostat, which does not turn off the heating on time, or problems with the timer/control board. Also, the reason may be a power surge in the network.
Which heating element is better: open or in a casing?
For Atlant refrigerators it is better to use the original type provided for by the design. Heating elements in a casing are less susceptible to mechanical damage during defrosting, but open ones transfer heat faster. Replacing one type with another requires modification of the fasteners.
Do you need to lubricate the contacts of the heating element?
You cannot use conventional lubricants (litol, grease) - they will burn. To protect contacts from oxidation, you can use special conductive lubricants or sprays for electrical contacts, but only on the outer part of the terminals, avoiding contact with the heating coil.