Modern refrigerators Indesitoperating in No Frost mode are complex units where each element plays a critical role. Defrost heating element is a heating element that is periodically turned on to defrost the evaporator hidden behind the back wall of the freezer. If this component fails, ice begins to build up on the evaporator, which blocks the circulation of cold air.
As a result, the refrigerator stops freezing, although the compressor can continue to work without interruption. Diagnostics of heating elements - this is the first step that allows you to understand whether a part needs to be replaced or the problem lies hidden in the control system. In this article, we will look at how to independently identify a malfunction without resorting to an expensive call to a technician.
It is worth noting that before starting any work, it is necessary to completely de-energize the appliance. Safety when working with electrical appliances comes first, and ignoring this rule can lead to failure electric shock or damage to the electronics of the refrigerator.
Symptoms of malfunction of the defrost heater
You can understand that Heating element of the Indesit refrigerator has ceased to perform its function by a number of characteristic signs. Often, owners notice that the freezer has become significantly warmer than set on the regulator, or the food begins to thaw.
However, the most obvious sign is the formation of an ice coat on the back wall or in the corner of the freezer, even if outwardly it seems that the No Frost system is working. Ice blocks the air supply channels, and the cold simply does not reach the main volume of the chamber.
Here are the main signs indicating problems with the defrosting system:
- ❄️ A thick layer of ice or a frozen block is visible on the back wall of the freezer.
- 🌡️ Temperature in the refrigerator is higher than normal, despite the operation of the compressor.
- 🔊 The compressor works almost non-stop, trying to compensate for the lack of cold.
- 💧 Water can flow out from under the refrigerator if the ice during defrosting (if it partially occurs) does not have time to evaporate or flow through the channel.
⚠️ Attention: If you find ice on the evaporator, do not try to break it off with a knife or other sharp objects. This can damage the aluminum tubes of the evaporator, which will lead to freon leakage and expensive repairs.
Sometimes the symptoms may be blurred, especially if the heating element has not completely burned out, and its resistance has changed. In such cases diagnosis with a multimeter is the only reliable way to check.
Preparation for diagnostics: tools and safety
Before you start checking the heating element, you need to prepare a workplace and tools. You will need access to the evaporator, which in refrigerators Indesit No Frost is located behind the plastic panel in the freezer.
To carry out the work you will need the following tools: a Phillips screwdriver for removing panels, a flat screwdriver for carefully snapping off the clips and, most importantly, the main thing is multimeter (tester). Without a measuring device, the check will be only indirect.
It is also recommended to have a flashlight on hand, since the lighting inside the dismantled freezer compartment may be insufficient. Make sure that the floor under the refrigerator is dry and your hands are not wet.
☑️ Preparing to check the heating element
Plastic in the cold it becomes fragile, and sudden movements can break it.
Access to the heating element in Indesit refrigerators
The dismantling process may differ depending on the specific model Indesit, but the general algorithm of actions is similar for most refrigerators with the No Frost system. First you need to empty the freezer of food and remove all removable shelves and drawers.
The back wall of the chamber is usually secured with several screws and plastic latches. In some models, the screws may be hidden under decorative plugs or located inside the chamber under seals. After unscrewing all visible bolts, the panel is carefully removed.
Defrost heating element in refrigerators, Indesit is most often a glass tube or aluminum profile located at the bottom of the evaporator, under it, or integrated into the lower part of the radiator. Two wires are suitable for it, which are often protected by corrugation or a heat-resistant tube.
Difficulties in removing the panel
If the panel cannot be removed, do not use force. Check if you forgot to remove the screws on the top of the camera or under the sensors. Sometimes the panel rests on ice, which needs to be carefully melted with a hairdryer.
Pay attention to the condition of the wires going to the heater. If the insulation is melted or the wires are blackened, this may indicate a short circuit or overheating at the contact point.
Methods for checking a heating element with a multimeter
The most reliable way check the heating element is to measure its electrical resistance. To do this, switch the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (Ohm), usually the limit is 2000 Ohm or 20 kOhm.
First, disconnect the terminals from the contacts of the heating element. Then we apply the multimeter probes to the contacts of the heater itself. Polarity in this case does not matter, since the heating element is an active resistance.
Measurement results can be as follows:
- 📉 The resistance is normal: The device shows a value in the range from 200 to 600 Ohms (depending on the power of the heating element). This means that the spiral is intact.
- ♾️ Open circuit: The device shows one (infinity). This means that the nichrome thread inside has burned out, and the heating element requires replacement.
- 0️⃣ Short circuit: The device shows zero or a value close to zero. This indicates a short circuit in the spiral turns, which also requires replacement of the part.
⚠️ Attention: Never measure resistance on a heating element connected to the network! This will lead to instant failure of the multimeter and can be life-threatening.
In addition to checking for a break, it is critically important to check the heating element for breakdown on the body. To do this, one probe of the multimeter is applied to the contact of the heating element, and the second to the metal body of the heater or evaporator.
If the device shows any resistance (even large) or emits a sound signal in the dialing mode, then the insulation is broken. Such a heating element cannot be used, as this can lead to an electric shock when touching the refrigerator.
Table of normal indicators and malfunctions
For ease of diagnosis, the main indicators are summarized in a table. Please note that the nominal resistance may vary slightly depending on the power of a particular model Indesit.
| Test parameter | Normal value | Fault value | Diagnosis |
|---|---|---|---|
| Resistance spiral | 200 – 600 Ohm | Infinity (1)** | Open circuit (burnt out) |
| Spiral resistance | 200 – 600 Ohm | 0 Ohm | Short circuit |
| Breakdown to housing | Infinity (1)** | Any number | Insulation failure |
| Appearance | Uniform color, no swelling | Blisters, cracks, blackening | Mechanical damage |
** Note: On digital multimeters, infinity is often indicated by the number 1 in the most significant digit or by the symbols OL.
If your measurements coincide with the "Fault Value" column, then replacing the heating element is inevitable. Repairing a burnt-out coil in a factory is impossible, and homemade soldering at home will not give a long-lasting result and can be dangerous.
Replacing the heating element
If diagnostics confirm a malfunction, you need to purchase a new one Heating element for Indesit. It is important to look for the part by the exact model number of the refrigerator or by the marking on the burnt element itself.
The replacement process consists of the reverse dismantling order: the wires of the old heating element are disconnected, the fastening is removed (usually brackets or screws), and a new element is installed. Make sure that the new heating element fits tightly to the evaporator or is installed in the intended groove.
When assembling, pay attention to the integrity of the wires. If the insulation is damaged anywhere, repair it using heat-resistant tape or heat shrink. After assembling all the panels, you can turn on the refrigerator.
Do not forget to check the operation of the defrost thermostat and timer (or electronic module), since they control the activation of the heating element. If the heating element burns out, it is rare, but it happens that the reason lies in the sticking of the relay on the control board.
Common mistakes during self-repair
When trying check the heating element of the refrigerator with their own hands, amateur craftsmen often make typical mistakes that can aggravate the situation. One of them is haste when defrosting ice.
Using boiling water or a powerful hair dryer can deform the plastic of the inner box or damage the seals. It is better to remove ice naturally or with warm air from a household hair dryer at a safe distance.
Another mistake is ignoring the check of other elements of the No Frost system. If you replace the heating element, but do not check defrost sensor, the new heater may burn out again or the system will not work correctly.
⚠️ Attention: Characteristics of components may vary in different batches of refrigerators. Always check the markings of the new part with the original before installation.
Also, do not forget about the cleanliness of the contacts. Oxidized terminals can create additional resistance, causing heating and eventual burnout of the new element. Clean the contacts before connecting.
Why does the new heating element burn out?
A common cause of repeated combustion is a malfunction of the defrost temperature sensor. If it is “stuck” in the “cold” position, the control module does not give a command to turn off the heating element, and it works continuously, burning out after a short time.
Is it possible to temporarily operate a refrigerator without a heating element?
Technically, the refrigerator will freeze, but after 1-2 cycles of operation the evaporator will be completely covered with ice. This will lead to a stop in air circulation, overloading the compressor and possible failure. Long-term operation without a heating element is not recommended.
Which heating element is better: glass or aluminum?
In refrigerators Indesit both types are used. Aluminum (tubular) ones are considered more reliable and transfer heat better, but they are more expensive. Glass ones are cheaper, but more fragile during installation. It is better to use the original or a high-quality analogue recommended by the manufacturer.
Why does the multimeter show different resistance?
The resistance of the heating element depends on its temperature. In a cold state it can be one, but when heated it changes. However, for diagnosing a cold heating element, the scatter should not be critical. The main thing is the absence of a break (infinity) or short circuit (zero).
Is it necessary to change the thermal fuse along with the heating element?
If the heating element burned out due to an internal short circuit, the thermal fuse could remain intact. But if the cause was a malfunction of the control system (the heating element heated for too long), then the thermal fuse must have blown. It is recommended to check its resistance (should be 0 Ohm) and replace it if in doubt.
How much does it cost to replace a heating element in the service?
The cost consists of the price of the part and the work of the technician. Depending on the region and model of the refrigerator, the price may vary. Self-replacement allows you to save on the cost of work, which often amounts to up to 50% of the total bill amount.