Independent check Defrost heating element in a Samsung refrigerator: instructions with photos and diagrams

If your refrigerator Samsung with the system No Frost began to become covered with ice on the back wall, make uncharacteristic sounds or stopped cooling food, the problem may lie in a faulty one. This heating element is responsible for periodically removing frost from the evaporator - without it, the system will simply be blocked by ice. In 80% of cases, diagnosing the heating element does not require calling a specialist: a multimeter, a screwdriver and 30 minutes of time are enough. The defrosting heating element. This heating element is responsible for periodically removing frost from the evaporator - without it, the system will simply be blocked by ice. In 80% of cases, diagnosing a heating element does not require calling a specialist: a multimeter, a screwdriver and 30 minutes of time are enough.

In this article we will analyze unique signs of failure of the defrost heating element (and not the thermostat or control board), show where it is located in the models Samsung RL-, RB-, RS-series, and in detail We will describe 3 testing methods: visual inspection, continuity test with a multimeter and performance test without dismantling. All instructions are adapted for refrigerators produced in 2015–2026, taking into account their design features.

Signs of a malfunction of the heating element defrosting

The defrosting heating element in refrigerators Samsung breaks down gradually, and the first symptoms are often confused with a fan failure or freon leak. Here are the key signs that point specifically to the heating element:

• 🔹 "Ice coat" on the back wall of the freezer (5 mm thick), which does not disappear even after defrosting.
• 🔹 Refrigerator beeps with error "5E" or "22E" (in models with a display) are fault codes for the defrost system.
• 🔹 The compressor runs non-stop, but the temperature in the chambers does not drop below +10°C.
• 🔹 In the freezer is heard hissing sound (this is ice blocking the fan), and then there is a click of the relay and silence.
• 🔹 There are puddles of water on the floor under the refrigerator, although the drainage hole is clean.

If you observe at least 2 of these symptoms, the probability of heating element failure is 90%. But before checking, rule out other reasons:

• 🔌 Power problems: the refrigerator could turn off due to power surges, disrupting the defrost cycle.
• ❄️ Clogged drainage: if the water does not drain, it freezes and blocks the operation of the heating element.
• 🌡️ Faulty defrost sensor (defroster): it can falsely signal the board about the completion of the cycle.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators Samsung with a system Twin Cooling Plus (two independent cooling systems) there are two defrost heating elements - one for each chamber. If only one is faulty, the second chamber will work normally.

Where is the defrost heating element in the Samsung refrigerator

In most models Samsung (for example, RL38, RB37, RS55**) the defrosting heating element is located behind the back panel of the freezer, directly under the evaporator. To get to it:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and remove all food from the freezer.
2. Remove the shelves and drawers.
3. Unscrew 4-6 screws (usually Phillips screwdriver) holding the back panel.
4. Carefully remove the panel by pulling it towards you and up (in some models it is secured with latches).

Under the panel you will see:

• 🔘 Evaporator —an aluminum radiator covered with ice.
• 🔥 Defrost heating element - a tubular heater attached to the bottom of the evaporator (often black or metallic in color).
• 🌡️ Defrost sensor - a small plastic box with wires attached to the evaporator.
• 💨 Fan —a paddle wheel that can be blocked by ice.

In models with Full No Frost (for example, Samsung RF23**) The heating element can be hidden deeper - under a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, you will need to remove an additional cover for access.

How to distinguish a defrost heating element from other heaters?

The Samsung refrigerator has 3 types of heaters:

1. Heating element for defrosting —located under the evaporator, it turns on only during the defrost cycle (every 8-12 hours).

2. Heating element for the pan —located at the bottom of the refrigerator, heats the drainage system (works constantly).

3. Door heating element (in models with anti-condensation)—heats the seal so that the door does not “suck.”

The defrosting heating element always has two terminals for connecting wires and is attached directly to the evaporator.

Preparation for testing: tools and safety measures

To diagnose the defrost heating element you will need:

Before starting work required:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and wait for complete defrosting (at least 6 hours).
2. Take a photo of the location of the wires on the heating element - this will help connect them back correctly.
3. Wear gloves: the sharp edges of the evaporator can cut your hands.

⚠️ Attention: Do not use sharp objects (knives, forks) for defrosting - you risk puncturing the evaporator, which will lead to freon leakage and expensive repairs. Remove ice only with a plastic scraper or a hairdryer at minimum power.

Unplugged the refrigerator from the outlet|Removed all the shelves and drawers from the freezer|Took pictures of the wire connections|Prepared a multimeter and a screwdriver|Put on gloves-->

Method 1: Visual inspection Heating element

Start with an external inspection - this will help identify obvious defects without tools. Pay attention to:

• 🔥 Darkening or melting the body of the heating element - a sign of a short circuit.
• 💧 Traces of corrosion on the contacts or tube - often occurs due to water ingress.
• 🔌 Oxidation of the terminals —green coating on the wires worsens the contact.
• 🧊 Ice on the heating element itself —if the heater is covered with ice, it cannot work normally.

Also check:

• Integrity heat-insulating tube (if it is cracked, the heating element may heat ineffectively).
• Attaching the heating element to the evaporator - if it comes off, heat is not transferred completely.
• Condition wires: frayed or bent cables can cause a break.

If there are no visual defects, proceed to checking with a multimeter. If damage is detected (melting, corrosion), the heating element must be replaced - it cannot be repaired.

Method 2: Testing the heating element with a multimeter

This is the most reliable diagnostic method. The resistance of a working heating element for defrosting in refrigerators Samsung usually is 20–60 Ohm (the exact value depends on the model). Here's how to check:

1. Disconnect the terminals from the heating element (after photographing their location!).
2. Turn the multimeter into resistance measurement mode (Ω) to the limit 200 Ohm.
3. Touch the two terminals of the heating element with the probes (polarity is not important).

Possible results:

If the resistance is normal, check the heating element for a breakdown on the body:

1. Switch the multimeter to the "testing" mode (diode icon).
2. Connect one probe to the body of the heating element (metal tube), the second - to any terminal.
3. If a beep is heard, the heating element is “broken” and requires replacement.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators Samsung with inverter compressors (models BESPOKE, Family Hub) the defrosting heating element can have a resistance of up to 120 Ohm —this is the norm. Check the exact parameters in the technical documentation for your model.

Method 3: Checking the heating element without dismantling (performance test)

If you do not have a multimeter or you do not want to remove the heating element, you can check it “in the field”. To do this:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 10 minutes, then turn it on again.
2. Activate forced defrost mode:
   • For models with a button Freezer: press and hold its 8–10 seconds.
   • For models with a display: press Power Cool + Fridge for 5 seconds.

After 5–7 minutes, touch the evaporator in the area of the heating element with your hand (be careful - it can heat up to +50°C!).

Interpretation of the results:

• 🔥 The heating element heats up —it is working. The problem may be in the sensor or the board.
• ❄️ The heating element remains cold —the heater itself is faulty or there is no power.
• 💡 The heating element is heating up, but weakly —degradation of the coil is possible (needs replacement).

If the heating element is not heating up, check:

• 🔌 Voltage at the terminals (should be ~220V when the defrost mode is on). To do this, use a multimeter in the alternating voltage (AC) measurement mode.
• 📶 Wire integrity from the control board to the heating element (often rubbed against the body).

How to enable test mode in Samsung?

Samsung refrigerators with a display have a service mode for diagnostics:

1. Unplug the refrigerator for 1 minute.

2. Turn on and immediately press the combination Power Freeze + Ice Plus (for models 2018–2026).

3. A code will appear on the display tE —this is the defrost heating element test mode.

4. After 3 minutes, check the heating of the evaporator.

To exit the mode, unplug the refrigerator from the outlet.

Frequent errors during testing and how to avoid them

Even experienced technicians sometimes make mistakes when diagnosing the heating element. Here's what you can't do:

• 🚫 Ring the heating element without disconnecting it from the board it will give false readings due to parallel circuits.
• 🚫 Use a megohmmeter to check - high voltage can damage the semiconductors on the board.
• 🚫 Try to repair the heating element (soldering, gluing) - this is a temporary solution that will lead to a fire.
• 🚫 Ignore the defrost sensor - if it is faulty, even a working heating element will not turn on.
• 🚫 Turn on the refrigerator with the back panel removed - this disrupts air circulation and can burn the board.

Typical false diagnoses:

• ❌ "The heating element has burned out" - in fact, the contacts have oxidized (cleaning is enough).
• ❌ "You need to change the board" - and the problem is a broken wire from the heating element.
• ❌ "The compressor is faulty" - although the real reason is fan blocked by ice due to a non-working heating element.

If you doubt the diagnosis, take photo of the heating element and board. controls and compare with typical diagrams for your model, for example, in Samsung RL38 The defrost heating element is connected to the board via a connector CN10, and in RB37 via CN8.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about the defrosting heating element in Samsung

Can it be replaced Defrost heating element yourself?

Yes, if you have experience working with electrical appliances. To replace you need:

1. Buy an original heating element (the article number is indicated on the sticker of the old one or in the instructions).
2. Disconnect the wires, remove the fastenings and install a new heater.
3. Check the tightness of the connections (use heat-shrink tube).

The cost of the original heating element for Samsung is from 1,200 to 2,500 rubles (2026).

How long should the defrost heating element work in normal mode?

In refrigerators Samsung the defrost cycle lasts 15–25 minutes and is repeated every 8–12 hours (depending on the model and operating conditions). If the heating element heats up for more than 30 minutes or does not turn off at all, this is a sign of a malfunction of the defrost sensor or board.

Why, after replacing the heating element, the refrigerator still does not freeze?

Possible reasons:

• Not connected sensor defrost (the refrigerator “does not see” the completion of the cycle).
• Clogged drain hole —water does not drain, freezes again.
• Faulty control board (does not give a signal to turn on heating element).
• New heating element incompatible with model (different resistance).

Check all elements of the defrost system comprehensively.

How to check the defrost sensor (defroster) in Samsung?

The defrost sensor is a thermistor whose resistance changes when heated. To check it:

1. Remove the sensor from the evaporator (it is attached to a latch or screw).
2. Ring with a multimeter in resistance mode:
   • At room temperature: ~5–10 kOhm.
   • When heated (blow with a hairdryer): the resistance should drop.

If the resistance does not change or is equal to 0/OL, the sensor is faulty.

The cost of a new sensor is from 800 rubles.

Is it possible to operate a refrigerator with a faulty defrost heating element?

Technically it is possible, but no more. 1–2 weeksConsequences:

• The load on the compressor will increase (the risk of its breakdown).
• Ice will block the fan, which will lead to overheating of the motor.
• Food in the freezer will begin to deteriorate due to unstable temperatures.

If it is not possible to immediately replace the heating element, defrost the refrigerator manually every 2-3 days.