Removing and dismantling the compressor from the refrigerator is a process that requires not only physical strength, but also strict adherence to safety precautions. Many DIYers are interested how to cut the engine from a refrigeratorto remove non-ferrous metals such as copper from windings, or simply recycle heavy equipment. It is important to understand that inside the unit there is freon oil, which can be dangerous if handled incorrectly.
Before starting any work, you must make sure that the compressor is disconnected from the power supply and disconnected from the refrigeration circuit. If you plan to simply throw away the unit, this is strictly forbidden, but recycling requires complete decompression. In this article we will analyze in detail all the stages, tools and nuances that will help you effectively cope with the task without risk to health.
It is worth noting that modern models may differ in design from old Soviet counterparts. Therefore, there is no universal method, but the basic principles remain the same. Your goal is to safely open casewithout damaging the tools or getting injured from flying debris or sparks.
The process of cutting is often called "kerning" or simply "opening." Regardless of the terminology, the essence is the same: break the tightness of the steel case to gain access to the insides. This requires preparation of the workplace, since the process is accompanied by a lot of noise, dust and metal shavings.
Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace
To perform the work efficiently and safely, you will need specialized tools. It is extremely difficult to handle this with a regular hacksaw due to the thickness of the body walls and the viscosity of the steel. The main tool will be angle grinder (grinder) with metal discs with a diameter of 125 or 230 mm.
You also cannot do without a heavy metalworker's hammer and a chisel (or core) for preliminary notching and final separation of the body parts after cutting. Be sure to prepare a container for draining compressor oilas it will flow out immediately after opening the sealed volume.
- 🛠️ Angle grinder with spare cutting discs.
- 🔨 A heavy hammer and a sharp chisel or core.
- 🧤 Protective gloves, goggles and a respirator.
- 🗑️ A container for waste oil and rags.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to use open fire to heat the case in order to melt solder or metal, as how vapors of flammable refrigerant and oil may remain inside.
The work place should be well ventilated, preferably outdoors or in a garage with an open gate. Concrete flooring is preferable, as sparks from the angle grinder can burn through wood or ignite debris. Secure the compressor in a vice or firmly press it with your foot to prevent movement during cutting.
Safety and precautions
Safety when working with power tools and potentially hazardous substances comes first. A refrigerator compressor is a sealed vessel that is under pressure (even if it appears to be empty). Incorrect actions may result in explosive release of contents or flying metal fragments.
The use of personal protective equipment (PPE) is mandatory. Goggles should fit tightly to the face, protecting the eyes not only from sparks, but also from fine metal dust, which is formed in huge quantities when cutting cast iron and steel.
- 👓 Safety glasses or a face mask are required.
- 😷 A respirator will protect the lungs from inhaling oil vapors and metal dust.
- 🧥 Thick clothing made from natural fabrics will protect the skin from sparks.
- 👂 Earplugs or headphones will save your hearing from the squeal of an angle grinder.
Particular attention should be paid to residual pressure. Even if you have disconnected the tubes, there may still be gas inside. Before starting active cutting, it is recommended to carefully drill a small hole in the upper part of the housing (in the area where there are no windings) to relieve any possible pressure. This must be done carefully, using long drills.
⚠️ Attention: When drilling or cutting, a gas with a pungent odor may be released. Avoid inhaling these vapors, as the breakdown products of old freon and oil can be toxic.
If you smell burning or see smoke, stop work immediately and provide ventilation. Never work alone in a confined space. Having a second person who can turn off the tool or call for help in case of injury significantly increases the level of safety.
Draining the oil and decompressing the unit
The first practical step after preparing the tools is to remove technical fluids. Inside the compressor there is oil that lubricates the rubbing parts. It can be mineral or synthetic, and its volume ranges from 200 to 400 ml depending on the model.
To drain the oil, it is not necessary to immediately cut off the body. Simply turn the compressor upside down over the prepared container and bite or saw off one of the copper tubes (usually the lowest). The oil will flow out by gravity, but the process may take time due to the viscosity of the liquid.
After draining the bulk of the oil, you must make sure that there is no pressure. If you hear a hissing sound when the tubes are bitten off, the decompression was successful. If the tubes have been cut previously, ensure that the holes are open and not clogged with congealed oil or dirt.
It is important to properly dispose of used oil. It should not be poured down the drain or onto the ground. Collect the liquid in a sealed container and take it to a waste oil products collection point. This will help preserve the environment and avoid fines.
The process of cutting the compressor housing
The main stage of the work is the direct destruction of the steel housing. The compressor housing consists of two hemispheres welded along the equator. It is along this weld seam or just above/below it that you need to make a circular cut.
Turn on the grinder and let it gain full speed. Begin cutting with firm, but not too strong, movements. There is no need to put pressure on the tool; it should cut under its own weight. Make a cut in a circle, gradually going deeper.
- 📏 Make a preliminary notch with a chisel along the cut line so that the disc does not slip.
- 🔄 Move the tool smoothly, without jerking, following the circle.
- 🛑 Let the engine cool down if you feel the tool overheating.
- 👀 Control the position of the disk so as not to touch the internal parts ahead of time.
In some cases, the weld seam can be very thick. Then it makes sense to make two parallel cuts at a distance of 1-2 cm from each other and knock out the bridge between them with a chisel. This will make it easier to separate the halves.
When the circular cut is made to a sufficient depth, insert the chisel into the slot and hit with a hammer. If the cut is made correctly, the upper part of the body (the “hat”) will easily separate from the lower. If not, finish the uncut sections.
Removing the copper winding and sorting the metal
After removing the cover, the “inner world” of the compressor will open to your view: a stator with copper windings, a rotor and a piston group. The main value for scrap metal here is copper and aluminum.
To extract copper, you need to cut it with wire cutters or saw through the ties holding the windings. The copper wires are then simply pulled out of the stator slots. In some models, the stator has to be additionally heated or knocked out to free the wire.
| Component | Material | Approximate weight | Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Case | Steel | 6-9 kg | Submit to ferrous metal |
| Windings | Copper/Aluminium | 0.5-1.2 kg | Burn the insulation, hand over |
| Rotor | Steel | 2-3 kg | Turn in ferrous metal |
| Piston | Cast iron/Steel | 1-2 kg | Put into ferrous metal |
Aluminum wires are found in cheaper or modern models. They can be distinguished by the color of the cut and the absence of a characteristic copper sheen. Aluminum weighs significantly less and the scrap price is lower, but the extraction process is similar.
⚠️ Attention: When you burn insulation from wires (if you choose to do this to clean copper), acrid black smoke is released. Do this only in the open air, away from residential buildings.
The remaining "skeleton" - stator, rotor and housing - is a black scrap (ferrous metal). It can be handed over entirely without further disassembly, since the cost of processing may not repay the labor costs for further cutting.
Waste disposal and environmental aspects
Proper disposal is an important part of the process. In addition to metal and oil, there are wire cuttings, insulation and possibly refrigerant residues. All these components require a different approach to disposal.
Scrap metal is handed over to collection points. It is better to sort copper and aluminum separately from iron, since the price of non-ferrous metals is much higher. Pure copper without insulation is valued most highly.
☑️ Cutting checklist
Wasted oil and rags soaked in oil must be taken to special hazardous waste collection points. It is not allowed to throw such waste into regular garbage containers, as they contaminate the soil and groundwater.
If during the work you damaged the refrigerator evaporator tubes (which are often made of aluminum or coated steel), they should also be collected and returned. It is better to release the gas contained in them, if it still remains, in a well-ventilated place.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to disassemble a compressor without a grinder?
Theoretically, it is possible using only a chisel and a hammer, but this will require enormous effort and time. The compressor housing is made of durable steel, and “picking out” it by hand is extremely ineffective and dangerous due to the risk of sharp fragments flying off.
How much copper can be obtained from one compressor?
The amount of copper depends on the power and year of manufacture of the engine. On average, from 0.5 to 1.2 kg of copper comes out of one compressor. In old Soviet models there is more copper, in modern ones they often use aluminum or fewer turns.
Is it dangerous to open a compressor if it worked on freon?
Yes, it can be dangerous. Freon itself is inert, but upon contact with an open flame or hot metal, it can decompose to form phosgene, a chemical warfare agent. Therefore, heating the housing with an open fire is prohibited.
What to do with the rotor and stator after removing the copper?
They do not need to be thrown away. This is high-quality black scrap (electrical steel), which is readily accepted at scrap metal points. The magnetic properties of the stator can be used again to create powerful magnets or other homemade products.
Is it necessary to remove the entire compressor from the refrigerator?
For cutting - yes, it is more convenient to work with a separate unit on a workbench. However, if the goal is only to scrap, some points accept entire refrigerators, but the price for them will be lower than for separately sold copper and sorted metal.
Interesting fact about compressors
There is an almost perfect vacuum or high pressure inside the compressor (depending on the phase of operation), and the oil is in a suspended state, lubricating all the parts even in zero gravity (conditionally).
To summarize, we can say that cutting a compressor is a labor-intensive, but completely doable process for a home craftsman. By following simple safety rules and having the necessary tools, you can effectively dispose of the old unit and the resulting materials for recycling.