Dismantling compressor from a refrigeration unit is a technically complex procedure that requires not only physical effort, but also specific knowledge about the design of refrigeration systems. Most often, this operation is resorted to when motor-compressor it has broken down and requires replacement, or when the old unit is disposed of to obtain non-ferrous metal. Understanding how to correctly remove the unit will help avoid injury and damage to adjacent elements.
The extraction process begins long before you pick up a grinder or hacksaw. Refrigeration circuit is under pressure, and there is refrigerant circulating inside, which can be dangerous if it ignites or leaks. That is why the first priority is to properly prepare the workplace and ensure safety. Do not underestimate the risks associated with electricity and sharp metal edges.
In this article we will analyze in detail the stages of work, starting from preparing tools and ending with the final removal of a heavy unit from the housing. You will learn why depressurization of the system should be carried out in a ventilated room, what nuances there are in soldering copper tubes and how not to damage the capacitor during dismantling. A competent approach will save your time and nerves.
Preparation of the workplace and the necessary tools
Before starting any work with household appliances, it is necessary to provide access to the rear of the unit. The best option would be to take the refrigerator outside or into a well-ventilated garage, since depressurization may cause residual freon and oil combustion products to escape. To work, you will need a set of specialized tools, without which you will not be able to get a high-quality compressor.
The main tool for cutting metal elements will be an angle grinder, popularly called an “grinder”. A gas torch or oxyfuel torch is also necessary to work with the copper tubing if you plan to keep it intact. Don't forget about personal protective equipment: glasses, gloves and a respirator are required, since soldering and cutting generate a lot of smoke and sparks.
- 🔧 Angle grinder with metal discs for cutting steel casing.
- 🔥 Gas torch with a cylinder for annealing solder on copper connections.
- 🛡️ Protective equipment: glasses, thick gloves, a respirator and fire-resistant clothing.
- 🔩 A set of open-end wrenches and screwdrivers for dismantling fasteners.
It is important to think in advance where you will put the dismantled parts. The compressor weighs from 8 to 12 kilograms, so the place for its temporary placement must be stable. In addition, prepare a container to collect draining compressor oil, which can be toxic and contaminate the soil.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
Ensuring safety and removing refrigerant
The first and most critical step is removing the refrigerant from the system. Old refrigerator models used Freon R12which destroys the ozone layer, while modern ones used R134a or R600a. The latter is especially dangerous because it is a flammable gas (isobutane). If you simply cut the tubes, you can get serious fire or poisoning.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to carry out work on sawing or annealing tubes in a closed room without forced ventilation. The accumulation of refrigerant vapors in combination with sparks from the angle grinder can lead to an explosion.
To safely remove the gas, you need to find the farthest point of the system, usually a capillary tube or filter drier. At this point, a small cut is carefully made with a file or grinder, after which the tube is cut into pieces. The gas will come out with a characteristic hissing sound. To speed up the process, you can briefly turn on the refrigerator to the network so that the compressor pushes out the remaining gas, but this must be done extremely carefully and not for long.
After releasing the pressure, you should make sure that there is no flammable mixture left in the system. Some experts recommend purging the circuit with nitrogen, but this is not always possible at home. The main thing is to let the unit stand open for at least 15-20 minutes before starting active work with open fire or sparking.
Removing the protective casing and electrical part
The compressor in the refrigerator is covered with a round or oval steel casing, which protects the mechanical parts and reduces the noise level. To get to the unit itself, this casing must be removed or cut off. It is usually attached to two halves, spot welded, or to bolted joints in newer models.
If the casing is welded, it is carefully opened with a grinder along the seam. You need to act slowly so as not to damage the internal elements and the compressor housing itself. After removing the cover, the “inside” of the unit will open before you: the electric motor windings, the piston group and the spring suspension system.
At this same stage, you must completely turn off the electrical part. Remove the plastic box where the starting and protective relays are located. Usually they are simply put on the contacts of the compressor. Disconnect the wires going to the thermostat and control unit so that they do not interfere with further dismantling.
| Element | Function | Action when dismantling |
|---|---|---|
| Start relay | Starting the engine | Remove from contacts |
| Thermal relay | Overheat protection | Disconnect wires |
| Capacitor | Starting element | Discharge and remove |
| Thermostat | Temperature adjustment | Disconnect from chains |
Visually inspect the insides of the casing. Sometimes you can find burnt wiring or traces of insulation breakdown, which confirms the need to replace the unit. If you plan to reuse the compressor, try not to damage the copper tubes that go to it.
Why is there compressor oil inside?
Inside the sealed compressor casing there is a special oil that lubricates the rubbing parts of the piston group and removes heat. During dismantling, it may leak, so be sure to prepare the container.
Disconnecting copper tubes and circuit
The most crucial moment to get the compressor is to separate it from the refrigeration circuit. The tubes coming out of the unit are soldered into a steel casing and connected to the condenser and evaporator. It is impossible to simply “unscrew” them, since the connections are made using hard soldering.
Use a gas torch to disconnect. Heat the entry point of the tube into the compressor housing until it turns cherry red. When the solder has melted, the tube can be carefully pulled with pliers and removed. It is important not to overheat the copper tube itself along its entire length, so as not to damage the insulation or adjacent elements of the system.
If your goal is recycling and safety of the tubes is not important, you can simply cut them with wire cutters or saw them with a hacksaw as close to the body as possible. However, to reuse the compressor (for example, for a homemade compressor), the tubes must be kept intact, leaving “stumps” 5-10 cm long.
- 🔥 Heat the soldering area evenly on all sides.
- 🧤 Use heat-protective gloves to avoid getting burned on the hot metal.
- 🛑 Do not pull the tube sharply until the solder has completely melted.
After disconnecting all the tubes (discharge, suction and sometimes process), the compressor becomes free from pipelines. However, it is still attached to the frame of the refrigerator and connected to the condenser.
Removing from the frame and removing from the case
The motor-compressor is fixed to the metal frame of the refrigerator, usually with four bolts or nuts. Some designs use rubber shock absorbers to dampen vibration. To get the unit, you need to unscrew the fasteners holding the compressor legs.
Often access to the lower bolts is difficult, since the compressor is located close to the bottom. You have to work by touch or use elongated heads. If the bolts are stuck, treat them with a penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) and leave for a while.
⚠️ Attention: The compressor is suspended inside the casing on springs. When unscrewing the frame mounting bolts, it may jerk sharply. Hold the unit with your hand so as not to damage the suspension or hit the walls of the housing.
After unscrewing the bolts, carefully lift the compressor. It is heavy, so it is better to perform this operation with an assistant. The unit should be removed smoothly, making sure that it does not get caught by remaining wires or tubes on other elements of the refrigerator. Place it on a flat surface.
Disassembling the compressor itself (for disposal or repair)
If you are faced with the task of not just removing the compressor from the refrigerator, but cutting it itself (for example, to convert it into an air compressor or hand over non-ferrous metal), the process becomes more labor-intensive. The case is made of thick steel and sealed with a weld along the equator.
To open the case you will need a powerful grinder with a new disk. A circular cut is made exactly along the weld. Accuracy is important here: if you cut deeper, you can damage the internal stator windings or the rotor shaft itself. After cutting, the top cover is removed, opening access to the “heart” of the unit.
Inside you will see a stator with copper windings and a rotor mounted on a shaft. To extract copper, windings are often chiselled or sawed through. The stator is a set of metal plates, which are also valuable as scrap ferrous metals.
Remember that oil always remains inside. It will leak out when cutting, so carry out work where it will not harm the environment. After removing the internal components, the empty housing can be used for various technical needs or scrapped.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to saw a compressor without draining the oil?
Technically it is possible, but it is highly not recommended. When the oil is heated by the grinder disc, it will begin to burn, emitting acrid black smoke and an unpleasant odor. In addition, hot oil may splatter and cause burns. It is better to unscrew the process tube in advance or drill a hole in the housing (observing safety precautions) to drain the waste.
Is it dangerous to open the compressor from an old refrigerator?
Yes, it is. Firstly, pressure may remain inside. Secondly, old compressors could run on R12 freon, which, when in contact with an open flame, forms phosgene, a chemical warfare agent. Therefore, such units should only be heated or sawed outdoors with good ventilation.
How much does a compressor weigh without casing and oil?
Weight depends on the model and manufacturer. On average, the “pot” itself (the sealed body with the insides) weighs from 7 to 10 kg. Without oil and without an external casing, the weight will decrease by about 1-1.5 kg. Copper windings make up a significant portion of the weight of the internal elements.
What to do with copper tubes after dismantling?
Copper is a valuable non-ferrous metal. If you are removing the compressor for scrapping, the tubes and condenser (fins at the back of the refrigerator) must be separated. The capacitor is often made from copper-plated steel or aluminum, so its value is lower. Pure copper is sold separately at a higher price.