Disposal disposal of old household appliances often becomes not just an environmental issue, but also a way to get additional income from the delivery of non-ferrous metals. The internal structure of a refrigeration unit hides a significant amount of copper, especially in the windings of the compressor motor, which is the heart of the cooling system.
Many owners who decide to scrap the unit are faced with a dilemma: sell the entire device or spend time extracting valuable components. Copper is valued significantly higher than ferrous metal or aluminum, so proper disassembly can increase the final revenue several times. However, this process requires physical effort, specific tools and, most importantly, strict adherence to safety precautions.
In this article we will look in detail at the stages of dismantling the compressor, methods for opening its housing and methods for separating the copper winding from the steel core. You will learn what tools are needed for the job, how to avoid common mistakes, and what to do with residual oil that may be inside the system.
Before you begin, you need to prepare your work area. It is best to carry out such operations outdoors or in a well-ventilated garage, as heating or cutting may produce unpleasant odors. Also make sure that you have a stable surface to place the heavy unit.
Preparing tools and measures safety
The process of extracting copper from refrigeration compressor cannot be called a simple mechanical action; it is rather a plumbing operation of medium complexity. To successfully complete the task, you will need a set of tools that will ensure not only efficiency, but also safety. The main enemy here is high voltage and possible pressure in the system.
First of all, get reliable personal protective equipment. When working with metal, there is a high risk of being cut by sharp edges and getting chips into your eyes. The use of safety glasses and thick gloves is a must, neglect of which can lead to injury.
For direct disassembly you will need:
- 🛠️ Angle grinder (grinder) with cutting discs for metal.
- 🔨 Heavy hammer and chisel or sledgehammer for destroying the housing.
- 🔌 Pliers, wire cutters and screwdrivers for dismantling electrical equipment.
- ⛽ Container for draining technical oil.
- 🔥 Blowtorch or gas torch (optional, for firing).
Before starting any work with pipelines, you must carefully pierce or saw through the copper tubes away from your face to vent the gas. Refrigerants may be toxic or under pressure.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to open the compressor housing if it is connected to an electrical outlet. Make sure that the power cord is cut or securely insulated to eliminate the risk of electric shock.
Removing the compressor from the refrigerator frame
The first step is to remove the motor itself from the refrigerator body. The compressor is usually located at the lower rear of the unit and is mounted on a metal frame using shock absorbing bushings. Access to it is often limited by a casing that must be removed.
The process begins by disconnecting the device from the network and disconnecting all suitable tubes. The copper lines going to the condenser and evaporator are cut with wire cutters or sawed through with a hacksaw. Be careful not to damage other elements if you plan to hand them over separately.
The compressor fastenings are bolts with rubber washers or bushings. In older models, the metal may be heavily corroded, making it difficult to unscrew. If the bolts do not give in, it is easier to cut them off with a grinder than to try to rip them off with a wrench, risking damaging the threads or the frame itself.
After releasing the fastenings, the engine is removed along with the starting relay, which is attached to its body. The relay is a plastic box with electrical contacts. It must be removed carefully, as additional non-ferrous metals may be contained inside, albeit in smaller quantities.
The weight of the compressor can vary from 8 to 15 kilograms, so lift it with care to avoid injuring your back. Install the unit on a flat surface, preferably on a wooden block or bricks, so that it is convenient to work with the tool.
Opening the case and access to the insides
The most important and labor-intensive stage is opening the sealed steel case. The factory welding connecting the two hemispheres is done very well, and it won’t be possible to unscrew it just like that. There are two main methods: mechanical (cutting) and thermal (cutting the seam).
The mechanical method involves the use of a chisel and a hammer or sledgehammer. The chisel is installed around the perimeter of the weld, and strong blows destroy the integrity of the joint. This method requires considerable physical strength and caution, since metal fragments can fly apart.
The thermal method using an angle grinder is considered more civilized, but it takes time. It is necessary to make a cut along the entire diameter of the weld. This allows you to carefully remove the top cover and gain full access to the internal components.
| Opening method | Required tools | Difficulty | Risks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cutting | Chisel, sledgehammer | High (physically) | Injuries, metal scattering |
| Cutting with a grinder | angle grinder, metal discs | Medium | Winding damage |
| Puncture | Crowbar, sledgehammer | Low | Dirt, oil, difficult cleaning |
After removing the cover, you will see a stator with copper wire wound on it and a rotor located inside. Often the stator is filled with varnish or bitumen mastic to fix the turns and protect it from moisture, which complicates the removal process.
What to do if the housing does not open?
If the weld is too strong and does not give in, you can try sawing the housing crosswise, cutting it in half. This will damage the winding but will give access to the copper. The main thing is not to damage the copper itself when cutting.
Removing the copper winding from the stator
The heart of non-ferrous metal mining is the stator. This is a set of steel plates in the grooves of which there is a copper winding. Depending on the engine model, the copper may be covered with additional insulating materials or filled with a compound.
First, you need to free the ends of the winding. They are usually connected to contact plates or brought out into a terminal block. Using wire cutters or side cutters, cut through the wires connecting the winding to the external contacts. Inspect the starting winding - it is often made with thinner wire, but is also valuable.
There are several strategies for extracting copper:
- 🔪 Cutting on one side: A bundle of wires is cut through one side of the stator, after which they are pulled out on the other side.
- 🔥 Burning: The stator is heated to high temperatures so that the insulation burns out and the varnish melts, after which the copper is easily removed.
- 🪚 Cutting the core: Using a grinder, cuts are made in the steel core to release bundles of copper.
The cleanest method is to cut the winding on one side. To do this, you need to find where the bundles of wires come out and cut them with a hacksaw or grinder. Then grab the bundle from the opposite side with pliers and pull it out with force. If the copper is tightly seated, you can use a wooden mallet to knock it out.
⚠️ Attention: When burning insulation with an open fire, acrid black smoke is released. Carry out this operation only in the open air, away from residential buildings and flammable objects.
Sorting metal and cleaning from impurities
The resulting copper is rarely perfectly clean. Pieces of insulation, varnish, solder and steel elements remain on it. Scrap metal collection points strictly classify non-ferrous metals, and the presence of impurities can reduce the price per kilogram or transfer the metal to the category of "lumpy waste".
Try to clean the copper as much as possible from non-metallic inclusions. If you used the burning method, make sure all organic matter is burned off. If the wire is covered with enamel, it can be removed mechanically or burned out, but it is important not to overheat the metal until it melts.
☑️ Checking the quality of copper
Solder deserves special attention. In places where contacts are soldered, copper is mixed with tin or lead. To obtain the highest grade (“shine” or “burnt”), it is recommended to bite off the soldering points, leaving them in a separate pile as brass or solder, which are cheaper.
The remains of the steel core also have value, but as black scrap. Don't throw it away, but fold it separately. Aluminum tubes, if they are in the system (the evaporator is often made of aluminum in modern refrigerators), must also be assembled separately from copper.
Typical mistakes and advice from professionals
Beginners often make mistakes that reduce the final weight of the useful metal or make the process dangerous. One of the most common mistakes is trying to disassemble the compressor without draining the oil. As a result, the entire work area, tools and clothing end up in a black grease that is difficult to wash off.
Another problem is damage to the copper wire when cutting. If you use a blunt grinder disc or carelessly work with a chisel, you can cut the wire, turning long, convenient tufts into short “noodles.” A short wire is more difficult to weigh, pack and hand over, and receivers can underestimate its category.
Professionals recommend:
- 💡 Use sharp and high-quality grinder discs, changing them as they become dull.
- 💡 Prepare in advance sealed containers for oil and rags for cleaning.
- 💡 Do not mix copper with other metals in one container until delivery.
It also costs Please note that the amount of copper may vary in different refrigerator models. Old Soviet units often contained more non-ferrous metal in the windings than modern energy-efficient models, where manufacturers seek to minimize the use of expensive materials.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
How much copper can be obtained from one compressor?
On average, one can extract from one standard compressor of a household refrigerator 0.5 to 1.2 kilograms of copper. The exact weight depends on the engine power and year of manufacture of the equipment. Old powerful models can contain up to 1.5 kg of non-ferrous metal.
Is it dangerous to open a compressor at home?
Yes, the process is fraught with risks. Primary hazards: high voltage (if not turned off), flying metal fragments, possible system pressure, and toxic fumes from burning insulation. Safety glasses, gloves and good ventilation are required.
What to do with compressor oil?
Technical oil should not be poured down the drain or onto the ground. It should be collected in a sealed container (plastic bottle or canister) and handed over to a special collection point for used oils or hazardous waste.
Is it possible to hand over the entire compressor?
Yes, many scrap metal collection points accept entire compressors as an “electric motor” or “micromotor”, but the price per kilogram is In this case, it will be significantly lower than for purified copper. Disassembly makes sense for large volumes or the desire to maximize profits.