How to properly disassemble a refrigerator for scrap: from the compressor to doors

Disassembling a refrigerator for non-ferrous metal is a task that requires not only physical strength, but also knowledge about the structure of the equipment. Hidden in the body of the old unit are copper, aluminum, steel even silver (in some models), which can be returned at a profit to collection points. However, incorrect dismantling may result in freon leakagedamage from sharp edges or fines for violating environmental standards. This article will help you figure out how to get the maximum profit from an old refrigerator without risking your health and without breaking the law.

It is worth clarifying right away: modern models (released after 2010) often contain less copper in the compressor windings, than Soviet ZIL, Minsk or Biryusa. However, even in them valuable parts remain - from radiator pipes to electric motors. The main thing is to know what exactly and how to removeso as not to damage valuable components and not waste time on unnecessary manipulations.

Preparation for disassembly: tools and safety measures

Before you begin dismantling, prepare your workspace and tools. The refrigerator should be placed on a flat surface, preferably outdoors or in a well-ventilated area (due to possible freon leakage). Be sure to unplug it before 24 hours before disassembly —this will allow the ice to defrost and reduce the risk of electric shock.

Minimum set of tools:

• 🔧 Set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips, including PH2 i PZ2)
• 🔨 Hammer and chisel (for separating rivets)
• 🗡️ Hacksaw or grinder (for cutting pipes)
• 🧲 Magnet (for collecting steel fastenings)
• 🧤 Rubber-coated gloves (protection from sharp edges and freon)
• 😷 Respirator (when working with polyurethane foam)

⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator was manufactured before 2000, its system may contain Freon R-12 is a substance that destroys the ozone layer. Its leakage is prohibited by law! Before disassembling, be sure to bleed off the gas at a special point recycling or use a vacuum pump.

Also prepare containers for sorting metals:

• 🟤 For copper (evaporator tubes, compressor windings)
• ⚪ For aluminum (radiator fins, some housing parts)
• ⚫ For steel (body, shelves, door hinges)
• 🟡 For brass (fittings, valves)

Step 1: Dismantling doors and seals

Start by removing the door - this is the largest part that interferes with access to the internal parts. In most models, the door is mounted on two hinges (top and bottom). Algorithm of actions:

1. Open the door 90° and support it. wooden block.
2. Remove the decorative plugs from the hinges (they are usually snapped or glued).
3. Unscrew the bolts securing the top hinge (most often it is M6 or M8).
4. Carefully lift the door up to remove it from the lower hinge.

After removing the door, remove sealing rubber —it is attached with screws or glue. In some models (for example, "Atlant" or "Stinol") aluminum profiles are hidden under the seal - they can also be returned as non-ferrous metal.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to cut off the hinges with a grinder! cutting. It is better to carefully unscrew the bolts and save the entire hinges - they will also be accepted at the collection point. brass bushingswhich are easily damaged by rough cutting. It is better to carefully unscrew the bolts and keep the hinges entirely - they will also be accepted at the collection point.

Step 2: Removing the compressor - the main value

The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator and the most expensive part when sold for scrap metal copper in the winding (up to 1–1.5 kg in Soviet models) and aluminum body. To remove it:

1. Turn the refrigerator on its side (the compressor is usually located at the bottom rear).
2. Unscrew the mounting plate compressor (4 bolts M8 or M10).
3. Cut the tubes connecting the compressor to the system with a grinder or hacksaw. Leave a reserve of 5-7 cm of tube on the compressor - this will increase its weight when handing over.
4. Disconnect the starting relay (usually secured with latches or one bolt).

In compressors of older models ("Donbass", "Orsk"), copper can be removed directly from the winding by disassembling the housing. To do this:

• Cut off the top cover with a grinder.
• Knock out the stator with the winding with a hammer and chisel.
• Burn the enamel on the wires (in a well-ventilated place!) - pure copper will remain.

If the compressor has not been started for a long time, its oil may thicken. In this case, before disassembly warm up the case with a hair dryer this will make removal easier. windings.

Step 3: Cutting the evaporator and condenser

The evaporator (located inside the refrigerator compartment) and the condenser (rear grill) contain copper tubes - their weight can reach 0.5–1 kg depending on the model. To remove them:

1. Remove the inner one. the chamber lining (it is usually attached to plastic clips or self-tapping screws).
2. Find the evaporator coil - these are tubes soldered to aluminum plates.
3. Break the tubes in several places and carefully separate them from the plates with a chisel.
4. For the condenser (rear grill) cut the tubes with a grinder, leaving 10–15 cm on each side for ease of delivery.

In some models (LG, Poyarkovsky Plant) the evaporator is covered with a layer polyurethane foam —it must be removed with a knife or blowtorch. Do not burn polystyrene foam indoors! When burned, it emits toxic smoke.

⚠️ Attention: Freon may remain in the tubes even after a long period of time settling. If a sharp chemical smell appears while cutting, stop work immediately and ventilate the room. Use a respirator with a carbon filter!

How to distinguish copper from aluminum in tubes?

Copper has a reddish tint and is not magnetic, while aluminum is silvery and light. Also, copper bends without cracks, and aluminum breaks when bent strongly.

Step 4: Dismantling the case and sorting the metals

After removing all valuable parts, a steel case remains. It can also be rented out, but at a lower price. Cutting algorithm:

1. Use a grinder to cut off all the welds around the perimeter of the body.
2. Divide the body into flat sheets - this makes them easier to transport.
3. Remove the remaining foam and plastic (they can be returned as recyclables separately).

Pay special attention to:

• 🔹 Door shelves —they often use aluminum profiles.
• 🔹 Back wall —sometimes steel sheets are hidden under the plastic panel.
• 🔹 Fastening elements —bolts, nuts and rivets also weigh and are accepted at collection points.

For ease of sorting, use a magnet: it will help separate ferromagnetic metals (steel, cast iron) from non-ferrous (copper, aluminum, brass).

Step 5: Disposal of hazardous components

Not all refrigerator parts can be simply thrown away or scrapped. Some require special disposal:

• 🧊 Freon — even after bleeding, the remaining gas in the tubes is considered hazardous waste. They must be taken to licensed points.
• 🔋 Start capacitors - contain electrolytes that cannot be thrown away with household waste.
• 🧴 Polyurethane foam - releases cyanides when burned. It is disposed of as construction waste.
• 🖥️ Electronic boards (in models with No Frost) - contain lead and other heavy metals.

In most Russian cities there are programs for the acceptance of household appliances for recycling. For example, in Moscow and St. Petersburg you can return your refrigerator for free through the service "EcoSystem" or "Megafon.Eco". In the regions, check the addresses of eco-points with the local administration.

⚠️ Attention: For unauthorized release of freon into the atmosphere, a fine of up to 200,000 rubles is provided for individuals (Article 8.2 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation). If you are not confident in your abilities, contact a specialized workshop for dismantling refrigerators.

How to sell metal from a refrigerator as profitably as possible

Scrap metal prices depend on the region, collection point and current market conditions. To get maximum revenue:

1. Sort metals —pure copper without impurities is valued 1.5–2 times more expensive than mixed copper.
2. Clean the parts from plastic, rubber and foam. For example, burn the insulation from copper wires.
3. Compare prices at 3-4 receiving points. Use services like "Metallom.ru" or "Rent.metal".
4. Deliver in large quantities —many items give a weight bonus of 50 kg.

Approximate calculation for a refrigerator "Minsk-15M" (1985):

• Compressor (copper + aluminum) - 1,800 ₽
• Evaporator tubes - 1,200 ₽
• Steel body - 300 ₽
• Brass fittings - 500 ₽
• Total: ~3 800 ₽

Modern models (Atlant, Indesit) will bring less - about 1,500–2,000 rubles, since they contain less copper.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Beginners often make mistakes that reduce profits or create risks. Here are the most common:

• 🔨 Cutting pipes without protection - copper and aluminum have sharp edges that are easy to cut on. Always use gloves.
• 🔥 Burning insulation indoors - emits toxic fumes. Do this only outdoors on the leeward side.
• ♻️ Mixing metals —reception points lower the price for unsorted scrap.
• ⚡ Ignoring freon residues —even a small leak can lead to poisoning.
• 📦 Throwing polystyrene foam into a landfill —it is accepted as recyclables for 5-10 ₽/kg.

Another mistake is an attempt to disassemble a refrigerator with system No Frost without knowledge of its structure. In such models, the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic casing, and to get to the copper tubes, you need to:

1. Remove the back panel of the freezer.
2. Disconnect the fan and heating element.
3. Carefully separate the evaporator from the plastic casing.

⚠️ Attention: Refrigerators No Frost use more electronics (sensors, timers, control boards). They cannot be thrown away with household waste - hand them over as electronic waste to special points.

FAQ: Answers to popular questions

Is it necessary to bleed off freon if the refrigerator has not worked for 10 years?

Yes, even Freon may remain in a liquid or gaseous state in a non-working refrigerator. When cutting pipes, it will evaporate, which is hazardous to health. It is better to vent the gas at a specialized point or on the street in compliance with safety measures.

Is it possible to disassemble a refrigerator without an angle grinder?

Yes, but it will take more time. Instead of a grinder, use:

• A metal hacksaw for pipes.
• A chisel and a hammer for separating rivets.
• A blowtorch for heating stuck nuts.

However, for the case you will still need grinder or autogen - cutting steel sheets with a hacksaw is ineffective.

How much copper is in the compressor from the Biryusa-3 refrigerator?

The compressor "Biryusa-3" (model DXM-5) contains about 1.3–1.6 kg of copper in the winding and up to 0.8 kg aluminum in the housing. If you disassemble it completely, you can get another 0.2–0.3 kg of brass from the fittings.

Where to take plastic and foam from the refrigerator?

Plastic (case, shelves, drawers) are accepted at recycling collection points at a price of 10–30 ₽/kg. Polyurethane foam can be disposed of as construction waste (5–15 RUR/kg) or used for insulation of a garage/shed. In some regions, there are programs for accepting polystyrene foam for processing into granules.

Can you be fined for dismantling a refrigerator in the yard?

Theoretically, yes, if the neighbors complained about noise or pollution. According to Art. 6.4 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation (“Violation of sanitary and epidemiological requirements”), the fine can be 500–1,000 rubles. To avoid problems, carry out work on weekdays from 9:00 to 19:00 and warn your neighbors.