Disassembling an old refrigerator: from preparation to disposal of parts

An old refrigerator, which has served faithfully for decades, sooner or later requires disposal. But before you send it to a landfill or take it to a scrap metal collection point, it’s worth thinking about: is it possible to extract useful parts, precious metals from it, or at least safely remove hazardous substances? Disassembling a refrigerator is not an easy task, but with the right approach, even a beginner can do it.

In this article we will analyze step-by-step dismantling process all the key components: from removable shelves to the compressor and cooling circuit. You will learn what materials are needed, how to avoid leakage, and what to do with the remaining materials. We will pay special attention tools will need how to avoid leakage freon and what to do with the remaining materials. We will pay special attention equipment safety —working with refrigeration equipment is fraught with risks that many are unaware of.

Important: if your goal is removing copper from the windings of a compressor or capacitor, then without special skills and equipment this can be not only labor-intensive, but also dangerous. The article provides legal and safe disposal methods that do not violate environmental standards.

Preparation for disassembly: tools and safety measures

Before proceeding with dismantling, it is necessary to prepare the workspace and tools. A refrigerator is not only metal and plastic, but also hazardous substances (freon, oil, mercury relays in older models), as well as sharp edges after cutting. Here's what you'll need:

  • 🔧 A set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) - for removing the fastenings of the case and panels.
  • 🔨 Grinder or hacksaw - for cutting the circuit tubes (if complete disassembly is planned).
  • 🛠️ Pliers, wire cutters, wrenches - for working with the compressor and fasteners.
  • 🧤 Respirator, gloves, safety glasses - mandatory when cutting metal and contact with freon.
  • 📦 Containers for sorting parts (metal, plastic, electronics).

It is better to work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. If the refrigerator was in the apartment, take it outside or into the garage - this will minimize the risk of poisoning by freon vapors. Also prepare a place for disposal in advance: some scrap metal collection points do not accept entire refrigerators due to the need for special processing.

⚠️ Attention: Refrigerators manufactured before 2000could use freon R-12 or R-22, which destroy ozone layer. Their leakage is prohibited by environmental legislation. If you are not sure about the type of refrigerant, contact a specialized workshop.
📊 You are disassembling the refrigerator for
Disposal
Repair
Extraction copper
Creative project
Other

Step 1: Disconnecting and defrosting the refrigerator

The first stage is to completely disconnect the device from the network. Even if the refrigerator has not been working for a long time, capacitors in the power circuit they can retain their charge. Unplug the plug from the socket and wait until all the indicator lamps go out. If the model is equipped with an electronic control unit (for example, Samsung No Frost or LG Inverter), wait 10-15 minutes - this time is enough to discharge.

Next we proceed to defrosting. The refrigerator does not freeze, ice may have accumulated in the evaporator. To speed up the process:

  1. Open the doors wide open.
  2. Install a fan or heater in front of the refrigerator (at a safe distance!).
  3. Place containers with hot water (for example, pans) inside.

Do not try to pick off the ice with a knife or other sharp objects - this can damage evaporatorwhichlater can be sold as non-ferrous metal. Defrosting can take from 4 to 12 hours depending on the model.

Step 2: Dismantling removable elements

Start by removing all easily removable parts. This will not only make further disassembly easier, but will also allow you to save intact components for reuse or sale. In most models (Atlant, Indesit, Biryusa), the procedure is as follows:

  • 🧊 Shelves and drawers are usually mounted on plastic guides. Pry them off with a screwdriver and remove.
  • 🚪 Door seals - carefully bend the rubber gasket and pull it out of the groove. In some models, the seal is glued - use a hair dryer to soften the glue.
  • 💡 Lighting bulbs - unscrew the socket (usually it is secured with a screw or latch).
  • 📄 Labels and stickers - save them if you plan to sell the parts. They indicate the model and serial number.

Pay special attention Door hinges. In refrigerators with a No Frost system (for example, Bosch KGE39AW20R) they are often mounted on hidden bolts under decorative plugs. Use a thin screwdriver to pry the plugs, otherwise you risk stripping the threads.

Part Material Reusable Cost at delivery (approximate)
Glass shelves Tempered glass Yes (for shelves in cabinets, greenhouses) 50–200 rub/piece
Door seal Rubber/PVC No (high wear) Not accepted
Plastic boxes Polypropylene Yes (for storage) 20–100 rub/piece
Door hinges Steel/aluminum Yes (for furniture, garage doors) 100–300 rub/set
Lighting lamp Glass/metal Yes (if intact) 10–50 rub

Step 3: Disassembling the case and accessing the compressor

Now we move on to the “heart” of the refrigerator - the compressor. To get to it, you need to remove the back cover. In most models it is attached with self-tapping screws around the perimeter. Be careful: behind the cover there is a a capacitor (grid of tubes) and fan (in models with No Frost).

Algorithm action:

  1. Unscrew all visible screws on the back panel. In some refrigerators (for example, Stinol 102) the fastenings are hidden under decorative plugs.
  2. Carefully remove the cover by pulling it towards you. If it is “stuck”, use a flat-head screwdriver as a lever. but without excessive force, you can bend the metal.
  3. Disconnect the power terminals from the compressor. Remember or take a photo of their location!
  4. If the refrigerator is equipped with start-protection relay (black box on the compressor), remove it by pressing the latches.

At this stage you will see three main tubes coming from the compressor:

  • Thin copper - suction (low pressure).
  • Thick copper - discharge (high pressure).
  • Capillary tube (very thin, often aluminum) - throttles freon.
Do not try to cut them off without preparation! Freon under pressure may remain in the system.

☑️ Preparation for working with the compressor

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Step 4: Removing freon and oil from the system

This is the most critical and dangerous stage. Freon is a colorless, odorless gas, but if it leaks, it displaces oxygen, which can cause suffocation. In addition, old refrigerators use mineral oilwhich causes irritation when it comes into contact with the skin.

There are two ways to free the system:

  1. Natural bleeding (for beginners):
    • Wear a respirator and gloves.
    • Use wire cutters capillary tube (the thinnest one) in the place where it connects to the condenser.
    • Wait 10–15 minutes - the freon will come out through the micro-hole.
    • Cut the remaining tubes and drain the oil into the prepared container.
  • Vacuuming (for experienced):
    • Connect a vacuum pump to the service port (if available).
    • Pump out the freon into a cylinder (special equipment is required!).
    • Rinse the system with nitrogen to remove oil.
    • ⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator is released before 1995, it may contain mercury relay (in the launcher). When damaged, it releases toxic mercury vapor. Such parts cannot be thrown away with regular garbage - they must be taken to collection points for mercury-containing waste.

      After bleeding the freon, you can begin dismantling the compressor. It is mounted on spring hangers or bolts. Unscrew the fasteners and carefully remove the unit. There remains compressor oil (about 300-500 ml) inside the compressor, which can be drained by turning it upside down.

      What to do with freon after bleeding?

      Freon from household Refrigerators cannot be reused without cleaning. After venting, it dissipates into the atmosphere, but in small quantities (from one refrigerator) does not cause significant harm. However, if you are dismantling several pieces of equipment, it is recommended to use Freon recuperator a special device for collecting refrigerant into a cylinder.

      Step 5: Disassembling the compressor and extracting copper

      The compressor is the most valuable part of the refrigerator from a recycling point of view. It contains up to 1–1.5 kg of copper in the windings (depending on the model), as well as an aluminum body and a steel frame. However, it is not easy to disassemble: the housing is sealed and welded at the factory.

      Procedure:

      1. Drain the remaining oil (see previous step).
      2. Place the compressor on a stable surface and clamp it in a vice (if available).
      3. Use a grinder or a hacksaw to cut off the upper part of the body along the weld seam. Be careful - there may be sharp edges inside!
      4. After opening you will see:
        • Steel piston and crank mechanism.
        • Copper stator winding (the most valuable part).
        • Aluminum rotor.
    • Carefully remove winding, being careful not to damage the wires. Copper can be sold as high-grade scrap.

    Is the game worth the candle? In 2026, the price of copper fluctuates within 600–800 rub/kg (at receiving points). Thus, you can get 600–1200 rubfrom one compressor, but only if you are willing to spend 1-2 hours on careful disassembly. An alternative is to hand over the entire compressor (the price is lower, but the effort is minimal).

    Step 6: Disposal of remaining materials

    After disassembly, you will be left with several types of waste:

    • 🔄 Scrap metal: housing, shelves, compressor (without copper), capacitor. Accepted at collection points by weight (price per kg depends on the type of metal).
    • ♻️ Plastic: boxes, seals, internal panels. Not all types of plastic are accepted for recycling - check with local eco-centers.
    • Electronics: control units, thermostats, lamps. They are handed over as “electronic waste” (in some regions they pay for this).
    • ☣️ Hazardous waste: freon (if not vented), oil, mercury relays. They require special disposal!

    Some tips for maximizing profits:

    • Separate the metal by type: black (steel), colored (copper, aluminum). Non-ferrous metal is 3-5 times more expensive.
    • Take photos of solid parts (door hinges, shelves) and post them on Avito or local bulletin boards. There is a demand for spare parts for older models.
    • If the refrigerator worked on R-600a (isobutane), its compressor may be in demand among craftsmen - this freon is environmentally friendly and is still used in new models.
    ⚠️ Attention: Rules for the disposal of refrigerators are regulated by Federal Law No. 89-FZ “On Production and Consumption Waste”. Throwing a refrigerator in a regular landfill is prohibited - a fine of up to 2,000 rubles (for individuals) is provided for this. Take the equipment to specialized points or call a removal service.

    Common mistakes and how to avoid them

    Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when disassembling refrigerators. Here are the most common errors and ways to prevent them:

    Error Consequences How to avoid
    Cutting pipes without bleeding freon Sudden release of gas, risk poisoning First, bite through the capillary tube, wait 15 minutes
    Use an angle grinder without protection Burns from sparks, eye damage Work with glasses, gloves and closed clothing
    Attempt to disassemble the compressor with hammer blows Damage to the winding, loss of copper Cut only along the weld seam with a grinder
    Ejection of plastic with metal Failure acceptance of scrap, fine for unsorted waste Prepare separate containers in advance

    Another typical problem is incorrect assessment of effort. For example, some people try to remove copper from a compressor winding manually without having any experience working with electrical equipment. This can result in cuts from sharp edges or even a short circuit if voltage remains in the winding. If you are not confident in your skills, it is better to hand over the entire compressor.

    Is it possible to disassemble the refrigerator without bleeding the freon?

    No. Even when the refrigerator is not working, freon remains under pressure in the system. When cutting the pipes, gas will escape, which is hazardous to health. In addition, this violates environmental legislation.

    How much copper is contained in a refrigerator compressor?

    On average - from 800 grams to 1.5 kg, depending on the model. For example, in compressors Danfoss (installed in Atlant, Stinol) there is more copper than in budget Chinese analogues.

    Where to return a mercury relay from an old one refrigerator?

    Mercury relays (found in models before 2000) are accepted by hazardous waste disposal points or eco-centers. In Moscow, for example, this can be done through the service EcoTechnologies or Megapolisresurs. Do not throw them in regular trash!

    Is it possible to use parts of an old refrigerator to repair a new one?

    Theoretically yes, but in practice this is rarely justified. Modern refrigerators (for example LG DoorCooling+ or Samsung Twin Cooling) use other types of compressors and refrigerants. The exception is universal parts like door hinges or glass shelves.

    How to understand that there is freon left in the refrigerator?

    Signs:

    • Hissing when biting tubes.
    • Cold to the touch discharge tube (thick copper).
    • The smell of oil when the compressor is cut (freon itself does not smell, but carries out the oil).

    If in doubt, contact a workshop - there are leak detectors.