How to disassemble the refrigerator yourself: from the doors to the compressor

Disassembling a refrigerator is a task encountered during major repairs, disposal or modernization of equipment. Unlike minor repairs (for example, replacing a seal), complete disassembly requires knowledge of the unit's structure, accuracy and compliance. Incorrect actions can lead to freon leakage, damage to the tubes, or even an explosion of the condenser. safety precautions. Incorrect actions can lead to freon leakage, damage to the tubes, or even explosion of the condenser.

In this article you will find step-by-step instructions for disassembling refrigerators of different types: single-chamber, double-chamber, with a system No Frost and drip defrosting. We'll figure out how to remove the door, dismantle the evaporator, remove the compressor, and even disassemble the electronic control unit. We’ll also tell you what tools you will need and how to avoid common mistakes.

⚠️ Important: If the refrigerator is connected to the network, be sure to unplug it from the outlet 12-24 hours before disassembly. This is necessary to discharge the capacitors in the power circuit - they can retain dangerous voltage even after being turned off.

1. Preparing for disassembly: tools and safety precautions

Before you begin disassembly, prepare your work area and tools. The refrigerator should be placed on a flat surface, preferably in a well-ventilated area - if the tubes are damaged, freon may leak (although modern models use isobutane R600awhich is less toxic, but still flammable).

Here minimum set of toolsthat you will need:

• 🔧 Set of screwdrivers (phillips and flat, including T10–T25 for modern models)
• 🔨 Wrenches (size 8–19 mm)
• 🗡️ Knife or flat spatula for removing plastic panels
• 📏 Multimeter (for checking circuits)
• 🧲 Magnet or tray for fasteners (so as not to lose small details)
• 🧤 Rubber gloves and safety glasses (required when working with freon!)

If you plan disassemble the refrigerator for disposal, prepare containers in advance for sorting materials: metal, plastic, glass (for shelves) and electronic components In some regions, you can get an additional fee for scrapping the compressor - check this. at the local collection point.

⚠️ Attention: Refrigerators older than 2010 can use freon R12 or R22, which destroy the ozone layer. Their leakage is prohibited by law - such units can only be disassembled in certified ones. workshops.

2. Removing refrigerator doors: step-by-step instructions

Refrigerator doors are the heaviest and most cumbersome part, and their dismantling simplifies further disassembly. The process is different for models with upper and lower hinge fastening. Let's consider both options. data-i="91">upper and lower fastening of the hinges

For most refrigerators (Atlant, Beko, Indesit) the procedure is as follows:

1. Remove the decorative plugs from the hinges (they are usually snapped or glued).
2. Unscrew the bolts of the top hinges (most often this 2-4 screws for a Phillips screwdriver).
3. Holding the door, remove it from the lower hinge. In some models (for example, Samsung RB***), the lower hinge is fixed with a pin - you need to knock it out with a hammer. through a wooden spacer.
4. Disconnect the wiring (if the door has a display or backlight) and remove the rubber seal (it is attached with latches or glue).

For refrigerators LG i Bosch s system No Frost may require additional disconnection of the door closing sensor (it is located in the upper corner and connected to the main control unit).

⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator door is equipped electronic lock (for example, in models Samsung Family Hub), before removing it, be sure to turn it off through the menu or reset the settings to factory settings. Otherwise, the control unit may be locked.

3. Dismantling the internal panels and the evaporator

After removing the doors, you can start disassembling the interior. The main thing here is not to damage evaporator (the radiator that cools the chamber) and the freon tubes. In refrigerators with a drip system, the evaporator is usually hidden behind the back wall, and in No Frost - behind the plastic panel in the freezer.

For models with drip defrosting (for example, Birusa, Stinol):

• 🔨 Remove shelves and drawers.
• 🗜️ Pry up the back wall with a plastic spatula - it is attached with latches.
• 🔧 Unscrew the evaporator fastenings (usually 2-4 screws) and carefully disconnect it from the tubes. Do not bend the tubes - this may lead to leakage freon!

In refrigerators No Frost (Samsung, LG, Electrolux, the evaporator is located behind the panel in the freezer. To get to it:

1. Remove the top cover of the freezer (it is secured with latches or screws).
2. Unscrew the fan. (usually 3-4 screws) and disconnect its connector.
3. Remove the plastic panel behind which the evaporator is hidden. Be careful - in some models there is also a defrost heaterwhich is fragile.

4. Removing the compressor: rules and risks

The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator, and it dismantling requires special care. In modern models, it is located in the lower part of the rear wall and is mounted on shock absorbers. Main danger - damage to the tubes leading to the compressor, or oil leakage (which contains freon).

Procedure:

1. Disconnect all wires from the compressor (usually 3-4 connectors: power, start relay, sensors).
2. Unscrew the compressor fastenings (4 bolts, usually wrench 10-13 mm).
3. Carefully lift the compressor and disconnect the tubes going to the condenser and evaporator. Do not cut them with a grinder! - use a pipe cutter or a hacksaw, leaving 5-7 cm from the connection.
4. If you plan to reuse the compressor, immediately close the tubes with plugs or tape to prevent moisture from entering.

In refrigerators with inverter compressor (Samsung Digital Inverter, LG Smart Inverter), you will additionally have to disconnect the control board, which is attached directly to the compressor body. It can be removed by unscrewing 2-3 screws and disconnecting the cable.

⚠️ Attention: In compressors of older models (before 2005), residual freon pressure may remain. If you hear hissing when disconnecting the tubes, stop working immediately and ventilate the room. In such cases, it is better to contact a specialist.

What to do if the compressor does not turn off from the network?

If the compressor is stuck and does not turn off even after turning off the refrigerator, the problem may be in the start relay or control unit. Before dismantling, check the voltage at the terminals with a multimeter. If it is there, it means there is a short circuit somewhere, and disassembling the unit is dangerous!

5. Disassembling the electronic control unit

The electronic unit (or the “brain” of the refrigerator) is responsible for regulating the temperature, operating the fans and the display. In most models it is located: In the upper part of the refrigerator (under the lid, for example, in data-i="172">🖥️ Inside the door (in models with a display, for example,

• 📱 At the top of the refrigerator (under the lid, for example, in Samsung And LG).
• 🔌 On the back wall of the compressor (in Indesit And Ariston).
• 🖥️ Inside the door (in models with a display, e.g. Bosch KAN92VI30R).

To remove the control unit:

1. Disconnect all connectors (better take a photo of their location before doing this).
2. Unscrew the unit fastenings (usually 2-4 screws).
3. Carefully remove the board. Be careful with the capacitors - they may be swollen.

If you are disassembling the refrigerator for electronics repair, pay attention to:

• 🔥 Blackened or swollen capacitors (a sign of overheating).
• 🕳️ Burnt tracks on the board (they can be restored with a soldering iron).
• 💧 Traces of corrosion (often caused by condensation in the freezer).

6. Removing the capacitor and fans

The capacitor (grid on the rear wall) and fans (in models No Frost) are the last elements that are usually removed during complete disassembly. latches or screws, and the fans are on 2-3 bolts.

Dismantling features:

• 🌀 The fan in the freezer is often covered with ice - let it thaw before removing.
• 🔗 The capacitor is connected to compressor and filter-drier. Do not pull the tubes - they are fragile!
• 🔊 In some models (Electrolux, Zanussi), the refrigerator fan is hidden behind a plastic panel on the back wall.

If you are disassembling the refrigerator for recycling, the capacitor can be cut off with a grinder (but only after the freon has been completely removed!). Fans are usually sold as electronic scrap - they contain copper windings.

7. Recycling and sorting of materials

After completely disassembling the refrigerator, there are several types of materials left that can be returned. for recycling:

• ♻️ Metal: casing, compressor, condenser, shelves (if metal).
• ♻️ Plastic: door panels, drawers, seals.
• ♻️ Glass: shelves and doors (in some models).
• ♻️ Electronics: control boards, wires, fans.
• ⚠️ Hazardous waste: freon (if not removed), oils, capacitors.

In Russia there is a system Ecosbor, according to which manufacturers are required to accept old equipment for disposal. Check with the store where you bought the refrigerator - many chains (for example, M.Video, Eldorado) organize free removal.

⚠️ Attention: There is a fine for self-disposal of freon without a license (under Article 8.2 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation. If you are not confident in your abilities, contact a specialized company.

8. Typical mistakes when disassembling a refrigerator

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that lead to equipment breakdown or injury. Here are the most common ones:

• 🔌 Unplugged power: Capacitors can retain a charge for up to 24 hours.
• 🔪 Cutting pipes without plugs: This leads to moisture and debris entering the system.
• 🔨 Using an angle grinder for dismantling the compressor: Sparks can ignite the remaining freon.
• 📱 Loss of fasteners: Small screws and washers are easily lost - use a magnetic tray.
• 🧊 Ignoring ice during freezer: Ice can damage the evaporator during dismantling.

If you are disassembling the refrigerator for repair, and not for disposal, avoid:

• 🔧 Disassembly without a diagram (especially for models with electronic control).
• 🔥 Soldering work without flux - this can damage the board.
• 💧 Washing parts with water (use alcohol or special solvents).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about disassembling a refrigerator

Is it possible to disassemble a refrigerator without experience?

Yes, but only for simple tasks: removing doors, shelves or the back panel. To work with a compressor, freon or electronics, it is better to invite a specialist. to refrigerant leak or short circuit.

How to understand that there is freon left in the refrigerator?

Signs:

• Hissing when the tubes are disconnected.
• Characteristic chemical smell (for R12 i R22).
• Freezing of the tubes after switching on.

If you suspect a leak - do not continue disassembly and ventilate the room.

What to do if you damaged the tube during disassembly?

If the tube is bent but does not burst, try straightening it with pliers. If a crack appears:

1. Close the valve (if any).
2. Solder the damaged area with silver solder (only for copper pipes!).
3. Check the system for leaks with a soap solution.

In most cases, it is easier to call a technician for repairs recharging freon.

How to remove the rubber seal from the door?

The seal is attached in two ways:

• On latches (pry it with a flat screwdriver and pull it yourself).
• On glue (heat with a hairdryer and carefully separate, prying with a spatula).

Do not pull the elastic band by force - it may tear. For cleaning. groove, use alcohol.

How much does it cost to disassemble a refrigerator for spare parts?

Scrap prices (2026):

• Compressor: 800–2500 rub. (depending on the model and weight).
• Copper tubes: 300–600 rub./kg.
• Control boards: 200–1000 rub. (if working).
• Plastic: 10–30 rub./kg.

When handing over an entire refrigerator for recycling, some collection points pay 500–1500 rubles. for unit.