Release of non-ferrous scrap often becomes a way to make money by recycling old household appliances, and the main prize here is an copper winding electric motor. However, many owners of old refrigerators are faced with the problem of the lack of a professional tool, such as an angle grinder (grinder), which is traditionally used for quickly cutting cases.
Disassemble hermetic compressor can be done using more gentle, albeit labor-intensive, methods, using only a manual plumbing kit. This approach requires patience and physical strength, but it eliminates the risk of overheating the metal, flying sparks and damaging the insulation, which is especially important if you plan not just to hand over scrap, but try to restore the unit or use its components.
In this article we will examine in detail the technology of opening the case and extracting valuable metal without the use of power tools, we will evaluate labor costs and consider the safety measures that must be observed when working with heavy and potentially dangerous equipment.
Before proceeding with disassembly, you must make sure that the refrigerant is completely removed from the system, since freon under pressure can be dangerous. It is also worth preparing the workplace in a well-ventilated area, since the process may be accompanied by the smell of burnt insulation or oil if it remains inside.
Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace
To perform dismantling work efficiently, you will need to collect a certain set of tools that will replace a powerful angle grinder. The main working tool will be a hacksaw for metal with a high-quality blade designed for cutting steel, since the compressor body is made of a durable alloy.
Additionally, you will need a chisel and a heavy hammer, which will be used to split the weld after preliminary notching. Don't forget to prepare pliers, a set of screwdrivers for dismantling the electrical part and a container for draining technical oil that may be inside the unit.
- 🔨 A hacksaw for metal with spare blades (at least 2-3 pieces).
- 🪚 A chisel with a wide blade and a hammer weighing at least 500 gram.
- 🔧 A set of wrenches and pliers with insulated handles.
- 🧤 Protective gloves, glasses and a respirator to protect against metal shavings.
It is important to prepare a stable surface on which the compressor will be installed, since significant physical effort will have to be made during the work. If you are working on a concrete floor, lay down cardboard or a rubber mat to prevent the tool from slipping and being damaged by impacts.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, make sure that the compressor has been unplugged for a long time and that the capacitors are discharged. Also check that no gas under pressure is escaping from the copper tubes.
Removing the electrical part and the start relay
The first stage of disassembly is to remove the outer plastic or metal casing that covers the electrical contacts. On older models of refrigerators Zil or Atlant this casing is often attached to latches or screws, which can be hidden under decorative plugs.
Carefully unscrew fasteners and remove the box, inside of which the starting and protective relays, as well as the capacitor, are located. These elements do not contain much copper, but they must be removed to gain access to the main part of the motor and the copper pipes.
Disconnect the wires going to the terminal block, taking a photo of the connection diagram first, if you plan to use the relay in the future. Terminal block usually a tight fit and may require careful loosening so as not to damage the ceramic insulator.
After removing the electrics, you will see three copper tubes coming out of the metal housing: two on the discharge side and one on the suction side. They need to be sawed with a hacksaw, moving 2-3 centimeters away from the body to leave “tails” for the convenience of further work.
Technology for cutting the compressor housing with a hacksaw
The most labor-intensive stage is breaking the tightness of the weld connecting the upper and lower parts of the housing. Unlike a grinder, which does it in a minute, a hand saw will require time and proper sawing technique.
Install the compressor vertically or horizontally so that the weld around the circumference is accessible. Start making cuts in a circle, trying to keep the blade strictly perpendicular to the surface so as not to get stuck in the metal and break the tool.
Do not try to cut through the seam at one point - this will cause the blade to jam. Move around the circle, making cuts 2-3 mm deep every 5-10 centimeters, gradually deepening them.
When the initial cuts are made along the entire perimeter, you can begin to connect them, forming a single groove. This process takes from 30 to 60 minutes depending on the sharpness of the blade and the thickness of the metal.
Cleaving a seam using a chisel
After about 70-80% of the metal thickness has been selected with a hacksaw along the entire perimeter of the seam, the chisel comes into play. This method allows you to split the remaining bridge without using a cutting power tool.
Insert a sharp chisel blade into the groove made by a hacksaw and apply precise blows with a hammer. Move in a circle, gradually going deeper into the metal. It is important not to hit too hard so as not to deform the case and damage the internal windings.
Safety precautions When working with a chisel, it is necessary to use safety glasses, since flying pieces of metal can injure your eyes. Also watch the position of your fingers, holding the tool only by the handle.
If the seam does not yield, you can use the “thermal shock” method (although this is a deviation from the purely mechanical method), heating the cut site with a blowtorch and sharply cooling with water, but in the absence of a grinder, it is better to simply continue working with a chisel.
Why can't you just break the housing with a hammer?
Breaking the housing with hammer blows without preliminary sawing can lead to damage to the copper winding inside, its deformation and mixing with the steel plates of the core, which will drastically reduce the cost of scrap.
Removing the stator and rotor from the housing
When welded the seam will be completely passed through, the upper part of the body (dome) will be easily removed, opening access to the insides. Inside you will see an oil-filled electric motorconsisting of a stator with a winding and a rotor.
The motor is attached to the bottom of the housing on three spring hangers or rigid brackets. They must be disconnected by bending the clamps or unscrewing the bolts, after which the motor block can be removed out.
Please note that there may be technical oil inside, which must be drained into a prepared container. It can be reused or disposed of according to environmental standards, but it stains clothing and tools.
| Component | Material | Weight (approx.) | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Case (stator) | Electrical steel | ~4-5 kg | Put into ferrous metal |
| Winding | Copper (Cu) | ~0.8-1.2 kg | Remove, clean |
| Rotor | Steel + Aluminum | ~1.5 kg | Put into ferrous metal |
| Shaft | Alloy steel | ~0.5 kg | Put into ferrous metal |
After removing the motor, you will be faced with The task is to remove the copper winding from the stator. This is the most valuable part, for which the whole disassembly was started.
Removing the copper winding without damage
To remove copper, you need to cut or saw through one of the sides of the coils (usually this is done from the end opposite the contacts). Use side cutters or a hacksaw to cut the wire bundles.
Once one side of the coils is cut, the copper can be pulled out from the other side. To do this, it is convenient to use pliers or a hook, pulling out whole bundles of wire, being careful not to tear them into small pieces.
Cleaning copper varnish insulation and soldered contacts increase its value upon delivery. Insulation can be removed mechanically (scraping) or thermally (calcination), but the latter method releases harmful substances.
☑️ Checking readiness for copper delivery
If the winding is made of aluminum (which is found in some modern or cheap models), it will have silver color on the cut and lighter weight. Aluminum is valued significantly lower than copper, so it is important to correctly identify the metal.
⚠️ Attention: When insulation is burned from copper wires, toxic substances are released. Carry out this procedure only outdoors, away from residential buildings, or use mechanical cleaning methods.
Estimating the amount of copper and scrap yield
The amount of copper that can be obtained from one compressor varies depending on the model and year of manufacture of the refrigerator. On average, an old Soviet compressor contains from 800 grams to 1.2 kilograms of pure copper.
Modern units often have lower winding weights due to optimization of production and the use of more efficient, but less material-intensive designs. In addition, in some cases, manufacturers may use copper-plated aluminum.
To determine the type of metal, you can use a magnet (copper is not magnetic, but the steel inside is magnetic) or make a small cut to see the color of the metal on the cut. Pure copper has a characteristic reddish-pink tint.
You should not count on huge profits from one unit, but when accumulating a batch of 10-20 compressors, the proceeds can be a pleasant bonus that covers the costs of tools and disposal of the remaining scrap.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to disassemble a compressor with a hacksaw?
On average, with no experience and using a hand saw, the process of cutting the housing takes from 40 minutes to 1.5 hours. Using a dull blade or thick metal can increase this time.
Is it possible to restore the compressor after such disassembly?
Theoretically this is possible, but in practice it is extremely difficult and economically unfeasible. Violation of the factory seal requires professional vacuumization and charging with refrigerant, which costs more than a new compressor.
Is it dangerous to open a compressor if there is freon left in it?
Yes, it is dangerous. Although freon in refrigerators is not toxic in small doses, it is under pressure. Sudden release may damage eyes or skin. Always check that the pressure has been released before starting sawing.
What to do with oil from the compressor?
Technical oil from the compressor is waste and should not be poured into the sewer or onto the ground. It must be collected in an airtight container and taken to a waste oil collection point or disposed of as hazardous household waste.