Disassembling a refrigerator compressor to extract non-ferrous metals is a process that requires not only physical strength, but also an understanding of the internal structure of the unit. Many beginners mistakenly believe that it is enough to simply cut the body with a grinder, but to obtain high-quality, pure copper, which will be accepted at the non-ferrous metal shop at the maximum price, a more delicate approach is required. In this article we will look in detail at how to correctly dismantle dissect an electric motor so as not to damage a valuable resource and not harm your health.
It is worth noting right away that this process is labor-intensive and dirty. Inside the compressor, in addition to the copper windings, there is technical oil, which can be toxic and is very difficult to wash off. Before starting work, make sure you have protective glovesgoggles and a respirator. It is also important to understand that simply “shaking out” the copper will not work: it is densely filled with varnish and is located in hard-to-reach places of the stator.
The purpose of this instruction is to guide you through all the stages, from draining the oil to the final sorting of the metal. We will discuss what tools are needed, how to avoid common mistakes when cutting the casing, and how to remove the windings as efficiently as possible while maintaining their integrity for subsequent delivery.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to open a compressor connected to an electrical network. Before starting any work, make sure that the unit is unplugged from the outlet at least an hour before the start, so that the residual voltage in the capacitors has time to dissipate.
Preparation of the workplace and the necessary tools
The success of the copper extraction operation directly depends on the preparation. You will need a sturdy workbench or a flat surface that you don’t mind getting dirty with oil. Since the process will be accompanied by the formation of metal shavings and oil splashes, cover the floor and table with thick film or cardboard. Lack of proper preparation will lead to the fact that you will spend more time on cleaning than on the disassembly itself.
The main tool for opening the case will be angle grinder (grinder). It is advisable to use a metal blade 1 mm thick for a more precise cut, although a 1.5–2 mm disk is also suitable for the initial cut of thick steel. Also indispensable (indispensable) will be a heavy sledgehammer or a powerful chisel with a hammer for flaring the edges after the cut.
To extract the copper itself you will need:
- 🔨 Hammer and chisel (preferably several, including narrow and wide) - for knocking out the windings.
- 🔥 Blowtorch or gas torch - for burning varnish (use with caution).
- 🔧 Set of wrenches and screwdrivers - for dismantling the external hinge.
- 🧤 Thick work gloves and safety glasses - mandatory equipment.
Don't forget to prepare a container for draining the oil. Usually this is an old saucepan or plastic canister with the neck cut off. Oil from refrigerator compressors Indesit, Atlant or LG may vary in viscosity, but all of it requires special disposal and should not fall into the sewer or soil.
☑️ Preparation for disassembling the compressor
Primary dismantling and draining of technical oil
Before taking up the grinder, it is necessary to remove all external elements from the compressor. These are the starting relay, capacitors and connecting tubes. The relay is usually mounted with latches or screws on the side of the housing. Carefully disconnect the wires, having first photographed their location if you plan to check the operation of the unit in the future, although this is no longer relevant for copper testing.
The next critical stage is draining the oil. In the compressor it can be from 200 to 400 grams. If you start sawing the body with oil inside, you will get a fountain of black slurry that will clog everything around. Turn the compressor upside down over a prepared container and allow the oil to drain. The process can take from 15 to 30 minutes.
Sometimes the oil does not drain well due to viscosity or design features. In such cases, you can slightly heat the body with a hair dryer (not open fire!) to reduce the viscosity of the liquid. However, if you plan to use the torch to roast copper later, the remaining oil will still need to be removed.
⚠️ Attention: Used compressor oil is a hazardous waste. Do not pour it into the sink, toilet, or on the ground. Take it to special collection points or dispose of it according to the rules of your region.
After draining the oil, wipe the housing with a rag. This will not only improve visibility, but also reduce the risk of ignition of oil vapors when working with sparks from an angle grinder. Now the unit is ready for the main stage - opening the housing.
Opening the compressor housing: technology and safety
The most crucial moment is cutting the steel housings. The compressors are hermetically sealed and welded in a circle. Your job is to make a cut along this weld. Do not try to saw the body randomly; Locate the junction of the top and bottom bowl. This is usually visible from the characteristic welding strip.
When working with grinder exercise maximum caution. The body may be tense, and if completely cut, it may “lead” sharply. Do not make a through cut at once, but several passes in a circle, gradually going deeper. This is safer and allows you to control the process.
If you don’t have a grinder, some craftsmen use the old method: punching a hole with a chisel and hammer around the perimeter of the seam. This requires significant physical effort and time. Once you go around the circle, the top cover should come off. If it sits tightly, you can carefully pry it off with a pry bar or a chisel.
Inside you will see the “inside” of the engine: a stator with copper windings and a rotor. Often the windings are covered with a thick layer of varnish and filled with oil. At this stage, it becomes clear why simply cutting the housing does not provide access to pure copper - the windings sit tightly in the stator slots.
What to do if you don’t have an angle grinder at hand?
You can use a hacksaw, but it will take a lot of time. Another option is to drill many holes around the perimeter of the seam with a metal drill bit, and then cut off the bridges with a chisel. This is long, but safe and quiet.
Removing copper windings from the stator
Now you are faced with the task of removing copper from the stator slots. You can't just pull it out with your hands. There are two main methods: mechanical (knocking out) and thermal (firing). The mechanical method is more labor-intensive, but preserves the quality of copper better.
For mechanical extraction you will need a chisel and a hammer. It is necessary to cut the windings on one side of the stator (usually the one where there are no contacts). Then, turning the stator over, knock out the remaining windings on the other side by hitting the ends. This requires strength and dexterity.
The thermal method involves the use of a gas burner. The copper is heated red hot, the varnish burns off, and the windings become soft. However, this method has a serious disadvantage: when the varnish and residues burn, oil is released toxic smoke. You only need to work in the open air or in very well-ventilated conditions!
heated room with a powerful exhaust hood.
- ⚙️ Mechanical method: cutting windings with a chisel, knocking them out with a rod. Pros: no smoke, copper is cleaner. Cons: heavy, you can bend the stator rods.
- 🔥 Thermal method: heating with a burner. Pros: copper is easier to stretch. Cons: harmful fumes, risk of overheating and changes in the properties of the metal (although this is not critical for scrap).
- 🧪 Chemical method: use of paint solvents. Pros: safe for health. Cons: very long, expensive and requires large amounts of chemicals.
The most effective for a home craftsman is a combined method: slightly heat the windings to soften the varnish, and then knock them out. After removal, copper “pancakes” or coils must be cleaned of insulation.
Cleaning copper from insulation and varnish
The resulting copper is still coated with enamel insulation. At collection points for non-ferrous metals, the presence of paint or varnish can reduce the price or transfer the metal to the “mix” category. To obtain the “Shine” or “Chunk” category, the insulation must be removed.
The easiest way is firing on a fire or burner. Copper is heated, the varnish burns, leaving carbon deposits on the surface, which can be easily removed by tapping or wiping with a rag. It is important not to overheat the metal for too long, although copper is quite resistant to temperatures.
There is also a method of boiling in acids, but it is dangerous for a beginner and requires knowledge of chemistry. At home, it is better to limit yourself to controlled firing. After firing, copper becomes a characteristic pinkish-golden color.
⚠️ Attention: When burning copper, vapors containing heavy metals and combustion products of polymers are released. The use of a respirator with a carbon filter is mandatory at this time. Do not inhale smoke!
After cleaning, weigh the resulting metal. The weight of pure copper from one compressor usually varies depending on the model and year of manufacture.
Copper content in different models of compressors
Not all compressors are the same. The amount of copper in old Soviet units and modern Chinese or European models may differ significantly. Modern trends towards cheaper production lead to a decrease in the amount of non-ferrous metal used.
The table below shows approximate data on the yield of copper from popular models. Figures may vary depending on the specific instance and the degree of wear.
| Model / Compressor type | Compressor weight (kg) | Approximate copper output (g) | Winding type |
|---|---|---|---|
| Donbass / Biryusa (USSR) | 12–14 | 1200–1500 | Aluminium/Copper |
| Atlant (Belarus) | 9–11 | 800–1000 | Copper |
| Indesit / Ariston | 9–10 | 700–900 | Copper |
| LG / Samsung (Korea) | 10–12 | 900–1100 | Copper |
| Chinese analogues (NoName) | 8–9 | 500–700 | Often Aluminum |
Pay attention to the last point. In some budget models, especially those produced in China in the last 10–15 years, copper-plated aluminumcan be used instead of pure copper. This can be determined by the color of the fracture (silver aluminum) or by weight (aluminum is much lighter). Selling such metal at the price of copper is impossible.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to completely disassemble one compressor?
On average, for an experienced technician with all the tools (grinder, burner), the process takes from 30 to 45 minutes for one unit. A beginner without experience can spend up to 1.5-2 hours, especially at the stage of knocking out the windings.
Is it possible to hand over the entire compressor without disassembling it?
Yes, many collection points accept compressors as an “electric motor” or “iron”, but the price per kilogram will be 3-4 times lower than for pure copper wire. Disassembly makes sense if you have access to several units at once.
What is the danger of freon inside the compressor when sawing?
Freon may remain in old compressors. When heated or exposed to an open flame, it may react to form phosgene (an asphyxiating gas). Therefore, before heating or cutting, it is recommended to carefully drill the housing (in the upper part, where there is no oil) to bleed off any remaining gas in a well-ventilated place.
Is there a difference in disassembling inverter compressors?
Inverter compressors are more complex, often having electronic control boards integrated into the housing or mounted externally. The mechanical part (stator and rotor) is disassembled in the same way, but additional care is required when dismantling attachments.
Where to put the steel case after removing the copper?
The remains of the case (black scrap) are also valuable. They can be handed over to ferrous metal collection points. The weight of the body makes up the bulk of the unit (about 8–10 kg), so you shouldn’t throw it away.
Disassembling the refrigerator engine is a process that requires care and compliance with safety precautions. By properly preparing and choosing the right extraction method, you can obtain high-quality non-ferrous metal. However, always evaluate the profitability: the cost of the time spent and tools should be recouped by the weight of the copper obtained.