The issue of recycling old household appliances often arises for owners of summer cottages or simply conscientious citizens who want to hand over metal to collection points. One of the most valuable components in this process is compressor the heart of the refrigerator, which contains a significant amount of non-ferrous metals inside. However, simply handing over the entire unit is unprofitable, since receivers often lower the price, considering it ferrous scrap or mixed metal.
In order to get maximum profit, you need to know how to properly and safely remove the copper winding. This process requires not only physical effort, but also strict safety precautions, as there may be high pressure and toxic substances inside the device. In this article we will analyze in detail the design of the motor, the necessary tools and a step-by-step algorithm of actions.
It is worth immediately noting that the copper yield depends on the model and year of manufacture of the equipment. Old Soviet units often contain more non-ferrous metal in the windings compared to modern Chinese counterparts, where engineers often skimp on materials. Understanding these nuances will help you assess the feasibility of disassembling a particular instance.
Compressor design and types of windings
Before taking up the tools, you need to understand what exactly you are dealing with. Hermetic compressor It is a sealed casing, inside which there is an electric motor and a pump group. This entire system is immersed in oil and is under pressure. An electric motor consists of a stator with copper windings and a rotor that rotates inside the stator.
There are two main types of winding, which affect the amount of metal extracted. More expensive and older models use pure copper wire. In budget options, especially those released after 2010, the manufacturer can use copper-coated aluminum wire. The material can be determined visually by a cut or using a magnet (aluminum is not magnetic, but the steel base, if any, is magnetic, or by weight - copper is much heavier).
⚠️ Attention: There may be residual pressure and refrigerant vapor inside the compressor housing. It is strictly forbidden to open the casing without first drilling holes to bleed gas and oil.
The weight of pure copper in a standard household compressor varies from 0.5 to 1.2 kg. The remaining mass consists of body steel, core lamellar iron and oil. That is why sorting and removing the windings makes financial sense of the entire operation.
Required tools and workplace preparation
Disassembling a sealed case requires a specific set of tools. A regular set of screwdrivers will not be enough here, since the casing is made of durable steel and sealed in a circle. You will need an angle grinder (grinder) with metal discs, a powerful hacksaw for metal or a reciprocating saw.
To remove the insides and cut the wires you will need:
- 🔨 A heavy hammer and a chisel to destroy the stator couplers.
- 🔧 A set of wrenches and pliers for dismantling external elements.
- 🔥 Blowtorch or gas torch for burning insulation (use with caution).
- 🛡️ Personal protective equipment: glasses, gloves, respirator.
The workplace should be well ventilated, preferably outdoors or in a garage with an open gate. When sawing the case, there will be a lot of sparks and metal dust, and when the insulation is burned, acrid smoke will be released. Prepare a container in advance for draining technical oil, which can also be recycled.
It is important to make sure that the angle grinder is in good working order and that the discs are not cracked. Working with a power tool when disassembling metal requires concentration, since the disk can jam in the compressor housing.
Step-by-step instructions for opening the case
The first stage is dismantling the external elements. Remove the start relay, protective cover and disconnect the copper tubes going to the condenser and evaporator. The tubes can simply be sawed or cut with wire cutters, if the metal allows it. After this, the compressor is ready to open the main body.
There are two main ways to open the sealed casing:
- Cutting along the equator. Use a grinder to make a circular cut in the middle of the body. This is the cleanest method that allows you to maintain the integrity of the windings, but it requires time and accuracy.
- Cutting out the bottom or lid. The perimeter of one of the flat sides is cut out with a chisel and hammer. The method is faster, but there is a risk of damaging the internal elements with a shock wave or metal fragments.
After the integrity of the seam is broken, it is necessary to carefully separate the body halves. Inside you will see an oily liquid and the electric motor itself. Drain the oil into the prepared container. Now access to stator and the rotor is open.
☑️ Safety when opening
If you chose the method with a grinder, Be prepared for the fact that the disc may wear off faster than usual due to the thickness of the steel. Do not make the cuts completely, leaving jumpers, which can then be easily broken with a chisel.
Removing and cleaning the copper winding
After removing the core from the casing, you are faced with the task of freeing the copper from the iron. The stator is made of electrical steel plates, which are tightly held together with pins or welding. Simply pulling out the coils will not work - they are tightly fixed.
The process of releasing copper is as follows:
- 🪚 Using a hacksaw or grinder, saw through one of the sides of the stator (opposite to the contacts).
- 🔨 Turn the stator over and knock out the copper bundles with a hammer through the freed up space.
- 🔥 If mechanical pulling fails, you can heat the stator with a torch to burn off the insulation and soften the varnish, but this deteriorates the quality of the metal.
The resulting coils of copper are often called “pancakes”. They contain remains of varnish insulation and enamel. To increase the price upon delivery, it is advisable to remove the insulation from the copper. This can be done by burning over a fire (in compliance with environmental standards) or chemically, although at home they often use mechanical stripping or the same firing.
⚠️ Attention: When insulation is burned, toxic substances are released. Do not fire in residential areas and do not stand on the leeward side.
Clean, shiny copper (“spark”) is valued much higher than dirty or tinned copper. Therefore, removing varnish and solder directly affects the final amount you receive at the collection point.
What to do with aluminum windings?
If you find that the wire inside is aluminum (light, silvery at the cut), it makes no sense to pass it on as copper - this is a deception. Aluminum is cheaper, and it is better to sell it separately as mixed non-ferrous scrap or even throw it away if the quantity is scanty.
Table: Comparison of metal yield in different models
Not all compressors are the same. Below is a comparative table showing the approximate yield of copper depending on the type and age of equipment. The data are averaged, since manufacturers are constantly changing designs.
| Compressor type | Approximate weight | Winding type | Copper output (kg) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Soviet (Atlant, Turquoise) | 10-12 kg | Copper | 1.0 - 1.4 |
| European (Electrolux, Bosch) | 9-11 kg | Copper | 0.8 - 1.1 |
| Chinese budget (Midea, Haier) | 8-10 kg | Aluminium/Copper | 0.4 - 0.7 |
| Inverter (modern) | 10-13 kg | Copper (thin wire) | 0.6 - 0.9 |
As can be seen from the table, old Soviet-made equipment is the most valuable for disassembly. Modern inverter models, despite their complexity, often contain less copper due to the use of more efficient but compact motors.
Waste disposal and safety precautions
After successful copper mining, you will be left with a significant amount of waste: steel casing, stator plates, rotor and waste oil. Steel can be turned into ferrous metal; this will also bring a small profit, although not comparable to non-ferrous metal.
Particular attention should be paid to oil. It is a petroleum product and is prohibited from being discharged into sewers or soil. Collect it in a plastic bottle and take it to a special waste oil collection point or give it to an equipment repair service.
When working with an angle grinder and fire, always remember the risk of fire. Metal shavings flying away can ignite dry grass or rags. Have a bucket of water or sand on hand.
⚠️ Warning: The sharp edges of sawn metal can cause serious cuts. Work only with thick construction gloves and clean the edges of the casing immediately after opening.
Do not forget about your eyes: flying scale and metal dust are the main cause of injuries during such work. High-quality safety glasses are required.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How much can you earn on one compressor?
At current scrap prices, from one compressor you can get copper worth the equivalent of 300-600 rubles (depending on the exchange rate and region), plus the cost of ferrous metal. Net profit depends on whether you consider your labor and the depreciation of the tool.
Is it possible to burn insulation in a regular stove?
It is strictly not recommended. When varnish and enamel burn, caustic substances are released that can clog the chimney and poison the air in the room. It is better to do this outdoors in a metal barrel.
Is there any point in disassembling an inverter compressor?
Inverter compressors are more difficult to disassemble and often have a non-standard design. The copper yield there may be less, and more effort will be required. However, the copper there is of high quality.
What to do if the wire is not copper?
If there is aluminum inside, do not try to pass it off as copper - there are analyzers or experienced receivers at the receiving points. Return it as appropriate metal or use it for other household needs.
Do you need to remove the rotor?
The rotor (the central part of the engine) consists of copper or aluminum plates and steel. It can also be disassembled, but the output of non-ferrous metal from there is minimal compared to the stator. Often the entire rotor is taken into ferrous metal.