Disassembling an old refrigerator for non-ferrous metals is a task that requires not only physical effort, but also knowledge of the technology. Copper found in compressors, tubing and electric motors is prized by scrap collectors, but extracting it comes with risks, from cuts from sharp edges to Freon leaks. This article will help you figure out which refrigerator parts contain copperhow to safely dismantle them and what to do with dangerous components.
We analyzed the diagrams of popular models (Atlant, Indesit, Samsung, Biryusa) and prepared universal instructions taking into account their design features. In the article you will find not only text recommendations, but also links to video showdowns (with a description of key points), a table of copper content in different components, as well as list of tools you can’t do without. Particular attention was paid to safety measures - from working with freon to protection from electric shock.
Why is copper in the refrigerator so in demand?
Copper is one of the most valuable non-ferrous metals in household appliances. It is used in refrigerators because of:
- 🔹 High thermal conductivity —ideal for evaporator and condenser tubes where rapid heat exchange is required.
- 🔹 Corrosion resistance —does not rust, unlike steel, which is critical for the humid environment of the refrigeration chamber.
- 🔹 Electrical conductivity —used in compressor windings and starting relays.
The average copper content in a refrigerator depends on its age and model. For example, in Soviet units (ZIL, Minsk) copper could be up to 2–3 kg, while in modern No Frost its amount was reduced to 0.5–1.5 kg due to the use of aluminum alloys. However, even this quantity justifies disassembly: with a copper price of ~600–800 rubles/kg (for 2026), revenue can amount to 1–2 thousand rubles from one refrigerator.
What parts of the refrigerator contain copper: complete list
Not all metal parts of the refrigerator are equally valuable. In order not to waste time disassembling unnecessary components, focus on the following elements:
| Part | Copper content (%) | Weight (approximate, kg) | Dismantling complexity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressor (winding) | 90–95% | 0.8–1.5 | Medium |
| Condenser (rear grille) | 100% | 0.3–0.7 | Light |
| Evaporator (tubes in the freezer) | 100% | 0.2–0.5 | Complex (requires opening the chamber) |
| Capillary tube | 100% | 0.1–0.3 | Medium |
| Starting relay (contacts) | 30–50% | 0.05–0.1 | Easy |
Special pay attention compressor - this is the most “copper” node. Its windings contain up to 1.5 kg of pure copper (depending on power). However, dismantling requires caution: freon or oil may remain inside. Also don’t forget about condenser (rear grille) - its tubes are completely copper and can be easily separated with a grinder or hacksaw.
⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators manufactured after 2010 years, some of the condenser tubes may be made of aluminum. Check them with a magnet - copper is not magnetic!
Preparing for disassembly: tools and safety measures
Before starting work, prepare:
- 🔧 Tools: grinder with cutting wheel, hacksaw, pliers, screwdrivers (phillips and flat), wrenches (10–19 mm), wire cutters.
- 🛡️ Protective equipment: respirator (dust is generated when cutting copper), gloves with anti-vibration coating, glasses, closed shoes.
- 🧴 Additionally: rags, oil container, marker for marking, a flashlight (for inspecting internal cavities).
Also consider the following nuances:
- 🔌 Unplug the refrigerator 24 hours before disassembly - this will allow the freon to settle in the compressor and reduce the risk of its leakage.
- 🌡️ Work in ventilated area or outside - freon is heavier than air and can accumulate below.
- 📦 Prepare containers for sorting metals: separately for copper, aluminum, steel and plastic.
Disconnected from the network at least 24 hours ago|
Checked the absence of freon (no hissing when punctured tubes)|
Tools and personal protective equipment have been prepared|
The work space has been organized (stable surface, good lighting)|
There is a plan for the disposal of hazardous waste (oil, freon)-->
If the refrigerator was working on freon R-12 or R-22 (typical for models before the 2000s), its leakage is dangerous for the ozone layer. Modern refrigerants (R-134a, R-600a) are less toxic, but also require careful handling. If the tubes are damaged, use a rag moistened with a soapy solution to detect a leak (bubbles will appear).
Step-by-step disassembly of a refrigerator for copper (with video)
It is more convenient to divide the disassembly process into stages. Below are universal instructions suitable for most models. For clarity, we recommend watching the video in parallel (see examples at the end of the section).
1. Removing the back panel and capacitor
Start by removing the back cover - it is usually secured with screws or latches. Under it you will find:
- 🔹 Condenser (black lattice of tubes) - cut it with a grinder at the base, leaving 2-3 cm for ease of transportation.
- 🔹 Compressor (black "barrel" with tubes) - do not touch it yet, first you need to bleed it freon.
The capacitor can be cut into pieces 30–50 cm long for ease of delivery to the collection point. The copper tubes inside are clean, without impurities, so they do not need to be further cleaned.
2. Bleeding freon and oil from the compressor
This is the most critical stage. Algorithm of actions:
- Put on gloves and goggles.
- Find service pipe (thin tube with a cap on the compressor).
- Connect a hose to it and take it outside (or into a container with water to neutralize freon).
- Carefully pierce the tube with an awl - you should hear a hissing sound (gas escaping).
- Wait 10-15 minutes until the pressure drops.
⚠️ Attention: Do not release freon indoors! Even a small concentration can cause dizziness. If the refrigerator ran on R-600a (isobutane), it is a fire hazard - avoid sparks when cutting!
After bleeding the freon, turn the compressor over and drain the oil into a prepared container. Oil from refrigerators is classified as hazardous waste - it should not be poured down the drain or onto the ground.
3. Removing copper from the compressor
The compressor is disassembled as follows:
- Cut off all the tubes leading to the compressor (use a grinder or a hacksaw).
- Remove the start relay (black box on the compressor body) - it also contains copper contacts.
- Saw the compressor housing along the weld seam. Inside you will find:
- 🔹 Copper stator winding (the most valuable element).
- 🔹 Rotor with shaft (copper in smaller quantities).
Copper in the compressor is usually coated with varnish - it can be removed by calcination (heat over an open fire until blackened, then clean with a brush). This will increase the weight of pure metal upon delivery.
How to distinguish copper from aluminum in tubes?
Copper has a reddish tint, is not magnetic and does not break when bent (unlike aluminum, which is brittle). Copper is also heavier: a piece of copper tube of the same size will weigh almost 3 times more than aluminum.
4. Removing the evaporator (optional)
The evaporator is tubes inside the freezer. Disassembling them requires completely opening the refrigerator and takes a lot of time, but can add 0.2–0.5 kg of copper. Algorithm:
- Remove the internal panels of the freezer (usually attached to plastic clips).
- Locate the aluminum or copper coil (tubes).
- Cut them with wire cutters, being careful not to damage the walls of the chamber (there may be polyurethane foam, which combustion releases toxins).
- 📹 "Disassembling a Soviet ZIL refrigerator for copper" —the process of opening the compressor and removing the winding is shown. Pay attention to the method of bleeding freon through a puncture of a tube.
- 📹 "How to cut a refrigerator condenser with a grinder" —demonstrates safety precautions when cutting tubes and sorting metals.
- 📹 "Demontage Kuhlschrank für Kupfer (German)" - detailed analysis of a modern refrigerator Liebherr with an emphasis on removing the capillary tube.
If the evaporator is aluminum (often in models after 2010), its disassembly is impractical - aluminum is 2-3 times cheaper than copper.
Video instructions for disassembly
For clarity, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following videos (description of key points):
What to do with hazardous waste: freon, oil, polyurethane foam
When disassembling a refrigerator, waste is generated that cannot simply be thrown into a trash container:
| Waste | Danger | How to dispose of |
|---|---|---|
| Freon (refrigerant) | Destroys the ozone layer (R-12, R-22), fire hazard (R-600a) | Bleed to in a well-ventilated area or take it to a recycling point |
| Oil from the compressor | Contains freon impurities, toxic to the soil | Pour into a sealed container and dispose of as hazardous waste |
| Polyurethane foam (insulation) | When burned, it releases cyanides | Take to a landfill or burn in a special oven |
In most Russian cities there are hazardous waste collection points (for example, eco-stations or specialized companies for recycling refrigerators). Check the addresses with the local administration or through services like Ekomonitor or Garbage.net. The cost of recycling one refrigerator usually does not exceed 500–1000 rubles, but some points accept them for free when returning non-ferrous metal.
⚠️ Attention: If you plan to hand over copper to a collection point, please contact us in advance check to see if they accept metal with varnish or oil residue. Some companies require preliminary cleaning (for example, calcination).
How much can you earn on copper from the refrigerator?
Income from disassembly depends on three factors:
- Refrigerator models — in Soviet units there is more copper (up to 3 kg), in modern ones No Frost — 0.5–1.5 kg.
- Current prices for copper —in 2026 it ranges from 600 to 800 rubles/kg (at scrap collection points).
- Metal purity —cleared varnish and oil, copper is valued more expensive.
Approximate calculation for a refrigerator Atlant MXM-1807 (2005 year of manufacture):
- 🔹 Compressor: 1.2 kg × 700 rubles = 840 rubles.
- 🔹 Condenser: 0.5 kg × 700 rubles = 350 rubles.
- 🔹 Evaporator: 0.3 kg × 700 rubles = 210 rubles
- 🔹 Starting relay: 0.05 kg × 400 rubles (price of copper with impurities) = 20 rubles
Total: ~1420 rubles. for one refrigerator. Subtract from this amount the cost of waste disposal (if applicable) and the cost of electricity/tools.
To increase profits:
- 🔹 Collect copper from several refrigerators - many collection points give a bonus when turning over 10 or more kg.
- 🔹 Clean copper from varnish and oil (by calcination or mechanically).
- 🔹 Sort the metal by purity - pure copper (for example, from a capacitor) is valued more than compressor windings.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that lead to injuries or loss of profit. Here are the most common:
- 🚫 An attempt to open the compressor without bleeding the freon - this leads to rupture of the housing and scattering of fragments. Always check that there is no pressure (press the service pipe - if it doesn’t hiss, you can cut).
- 🚫 Using an angle grinder without protection - sparks can ignite the remaining freon
R-600a(isobutane). Work with gloves and glasses, or better yet, outdoors. - 🚫 Neglecting to sort metals - mixing copper with aluminum or steel reduces its price at delivery. Use a magnet to check.
- 🚫 Pouring oil on the ground is not only an environmental violation, but also a fine of up to 2000 rubles. (Article 8.2 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation).
- 🚫 Disassembling a refrigerator with a running compressor - even if it “buzzes”, high pressure may remain inside. Always turn off the power one day before starting work.
Another typical mistake is ignoring the capillary tube. It is thin and seems insignificant, but in refrigerators older than 2000 its length can reach 2–3 meters and its weight can reach 0.2–0.3 kg. To remove it, carefully cut the polyurethane foam around the tube and pull it out with pliers.
FAQ: Answers to popular questions
❓ Do you need to obtain permission to disassemble refrigerators?
For one-time disassembly of 1-2 refrigerators for personal purposes, permission is not required. However, if you plan to do this regularly (for example, buy old equipment for recycling), you must register an individual entrepreneur and obtain a license to handle waste of hazard classes I–IV (RF Government Decree No. 1085 of 2014). You will also need an agreement with a landfill for the disposal of hazardous components.
❓ How to distinguish copper from brass in refrigerator parts?
Brass (an alloy of copper and zinc) is similar in appearance to copper, but has a yellowish tint and is less ductile. Carry out a test:
- Scratch the part with a knife - copper leaves a reddish line, brass - light yellow.
- Try to bend - copper bends without cracks, brass breaks when bent strongly.
- Check the weight - brass is lighter than copper by a factor 10–15% for the same volume.
Brass is rarely found in refrigerators (except in some fittings), but it is better to double-check.
❓ Is it possible to disassemble a refrigerator without a grinder?
Yes, but it will take much longer. Alternative tools:
- 🔧 Hacksaw - suitable for cutting condenser and compressor tubes, but requires physical effort.
- 🔧 Pliers - convenient for cutting thin tubes (capillary, evaporator).
- 🔧 Angle grinder with a cutting disc —if you don’t have a grinder, you can use a drill with a cutting wheel attachment.
To open the compressor without a grinder, a chisel and a hammer will be useful (carefully split the body along the seam).
❓ Where to take copper from the refrigerator?
Copper is accepted:
- 🏭 Reception points for non-ferrous scrap metal —look for signs “Reception of copper, aluminum, brass.” The price depends on the purity of the metal (pure copper - 700-800 rubles/kg, with varnish - 500-600 rubles/kg).
- 🔄 Specialized companies for recycling refrigerators - some buy copper immediately after disassembly (for example, EcoService, VtorTsvetMet).
- 📦 Online platforms — Avito, Yula (wholesale sale of copper, usually from 5 kg).
Before your visit, check by phone whether they accept copper in varnish insulation (from compressors) - some items require pre-cleaning.
❓ Is it dangerous to inhale dust when cutting copper?
Yes, dust from copper cutting contains oxides that irritate the respiratory tract and can cause "metal fever" (metal pneumonia). Symptoms: cough, chills, chest pain 4-12 hours after work. To avoid this:
- Work in respirator (preferably with a valve). exhalation, for example, 3M 6200).
- Use vacuum cleaner with cyclone filter to collect dust.
- Cut copper on open air or in a well-ventilated area.
If symptoms of poisoning appear after work, consult a doctor and report contact with copper dust.