Disassembling the Indesit refrigerator compressor: a detailed guide for self-repair

The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator Indesit, and its malfunction often causes breakdown of the entire unit. You can disassemble this unit yourself, but the process requires care, knowledge of the device and compliance with safety precautions. Unlike replacing the seal or cleaning the drain, working on the compressor carries the risk of damaging the freon circuit or electrical circuits.

Many owners are afraid to disassemble for fear of a refrigerant leak or short circuit. However, with the right approach and a minimum set of tools, the procedure is quite doable at home. In this article we will look in detail at how to dismantle the compressor on models Indesit (including popular series C132G, B18FNF, T160), what tools will be needed and what to pay attention to so as not to aggravate the breakdown.

📊 What is your experience in repairing household appliances?
Never repaired myself
I repaired minor damage (seals, light bulbs)
Changed components (thermostat, fan)
Disassembled the compressor or motor

Preparation for disassembly: tools and safety measures

Before you start disassembling, make sure that the refrigerator completely disconnected from the network is defrosted. The compressor is located at the bottom of the rear wall, and access to it is usually blocked by a protective panel. You will need:

  • 🔧 Set of screwdrivers (phillips and flathead)
  • 🔨 Socket wrenches (dimensions 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm)
  • 📏 Pliers and wire cutters
  • 🛠️ Manometric manifold (for checking the pressure in the system)
  • 🧤 Rubber gloves and safety glasses

Pay special attention refrigerant. In modern models Indesit using freon R134a or R600a (isobutane). skills, it is better to invite a specialist - an error during depressurization of the circuit can lead to complete loss of refrigerant and the need to refill the system.

⚠️ Attention: Some models Indesit (for example, series BAA or CSA) have seals on the service valves. Their damage will void the manufacturer's warranty. Check the warranty period before starting work.

Step 1: Removing the rear panel and accessing the compressor

Remove the bottom protective cover of the refrigerator It is attached by 3-5. self-tapping screws (depending on the model). In the example Indesit C132G the cover is fixed with four screws: two on the sides and two in the front. Carefully put it aside - under it you will see:

  • 🔋 Compressor (black metal block with tubes)
  • 🔌 Start relay (plastic). box attached to the compressor)
  • ⚡ Condenser (grid of tubes)
  • 📡 Capillary tube (thin copper tube going to the evaporator)

Before touching the compressor, photograph the location of all tubes and wires. This will help to avoid errors during reassembly. Pay attention to compressor markings —it is indicated on the sticker (for example, EMBRACO EGX90HLC or SEC COPELAND ZR14K3EThis data will be useful when purchasing spare parts.

Disconnect the refrigerator from networks|Remove the back panel|Take photos of the connections of the tubes and wires|Check the compressor markings|Prepare tools to disconnect the tubes-->

Step 2: Disconnecting the electrical connections

The compressor is connected to the start relay, which, in turn, is connected to the thermostat and control board To avoid a short. circuit, first disconnect relay terminals. They are usually fixed with spring clips - carefully pry them off with a flat-head screwdriver.

On models Indesit with system No Frost (for example B18FNF) the relay can be integrated into the control board. In this case, you will have to disconnect the entire unit. Follow the color marking of the wires:

  • 🔴 Red/brown - phase
  • 🔵 Blue - zero
  • 🟢 Yellow-green - grounding
  • 🟡 Yellow/white - signal wire from the thermostat
⚠️ Attention: If there are traces of oxidation or burning on the compressor terminals, this may indicate an interturn short circuit in winding. In this case, the compressor must be replaced, not repaired.
Wire color Purpose Where it is connected
Red Phase (220V) From socket to relay
Blue Zero From socket to compressor
Yellow-green Grounding To the refrigerator body
Yellow Signal from the thermostat To the control board

Step 3: Depressurization freon circuit

This is the most critical stage. The compressor is connected to the refrigerant circulation system by three tubes:

  1. Suction tube (thick, usually with a filter drier)
  2. Discharge tube (thin, hot at work)
  3. Process tube (for refilling freon)

To disconnect the tubes, use pipe cutter or special nippersDo not saw them. with a hacksaw - metal shavings can get into the system! Before cutting off the pipes with pliers, to minimize freon leakage. On models with isobutane, work in a well-ventilated area - the gas is heavier than air and can accumulate near the floor. data-i="134">pipe cutter or special cutters pinch pipes with pliers to minimize freon leakage. On models with R600a (isobutane) work in a well-ventilated area - the gas is heavier than air and can accumulate near the floor.

What to do if the freon has completely leaked out?

If the refrigerant has evaporated, the system will have to be evacuated and refilled. To do this, you need a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge station. Without special equipment, you will need to restore it. the refrigerator will not work. In such cases, it is cheaper and safer to contact a service center.

Step 4: Removing the compressor from the mounts

The compressor is attached to the refrigerator frame with 3-4 bolts (usually M8 or M10). Unscrew them with a socket wrench, but do not remove the compressor right away - it can be heavy (weight up to 15–20 kg). Place a wooden plank or cardboard under it to avoid damaging the floor.

On some. models Indesit (for example T160) the compressor is installed on shock-absorbing springs. They must be carefully disconnected so as not to be deformed. If the springs are torn or have lost their elasticity, they will also have to be replaced.

Step 5: Diagnosis of compressor malfunctions

Now that the compressor has been removed, you can check its performance:

  • 🔊 Humming without starting (thermal is triggered). protection)
  • ⚡ Darkening of the windings or a burning smell
  • 💧 The oil in the compressor has turned black or has metal particles
  • 🔧 Jamming of the shaft (cannot be turned with a screwdriver)

To check the windings, use a multimeter:

  1. Set the resistance measurement mode (200 Ohm).
  2. Measure the resistance between the terminals C-S (working winding) and C-R (start winding).
  3. Normal values: 15–40 Ohm for C-S and 20–50 Ohm for C-R.
  4. If the resistance is equal 0 (short circuit) or (open), the compressor is faulty.
⚠️ Attention: If the compressor "jammed", do not try to disassemble it yourself. The housing is sealed and filled with oil under pressure. An attempt to open it can lead to injury.

Step 6: Reassembling and checking the system

Installation of a new (or repaired) compressor is carried out in the reverse order. Pay special attention to:

  • 🔧 Tightness of tube connections (use rolling or soldering)
  • 🔌 Correct connection of wires (check the photo)
  • 💨 Refilling freon (requires a pressure gauge station)
  • 🔄 Checking the system for leaks (apply soap solution on the connections)

After assembly, turn on the refrigerator and let it run 1-2 hours. data-i="182">🔍 Leakage of freon (pipes must be cold) idle. If the compressor starts without buzzing and the freezer begins to cool, the repair was successful. If the refrigerator does not freeze, check:

  • 🔍 Freon leak (pipes must be cold)
  • 🔌 Operation of the thermostat and relay
  • 💡 Presence of voltage on the compressor (220V)

Typical errors when disassembling the compressor Indesit

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that lead to repeated breakdowns. Here's what you shouldn't do:

  1. Use of unsuitable tools (for example, an adjustable wrench instead of a socket wrench). This leads to “licking” of the edges of the bolts.
  2. Cut the tubes without clampingcan occur. tear out pieces of copper that will clog the capillary system.
  3. Ignore replacing the filter drier. When the system depressurizes, it becomes saturated with moisture and loses efficiency.
  4. Connect the compressor without checking the resistance. A short circuit in the windings can damage the start relay.

If after assembly the refrigerator works but does not cool, the probable reason is lack of freon or clogged capillary tubeIn the first case it will help. refueling, in the second - purging the system with nitrogen (professional equipment is required).

📊 What type of refrigerator are you working with?
Regular (drip)
No Frost
Two-compressor
I don’t know

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about compressor disassembly Indesit

Is it possible to disassemble a refrigerator compressor Indesit without special tools?

Theoretically, yes, but this is extremely risky. Without a pipe cutter, rolling and manometer, you will not be able to tightly connect the tubes, which will lead to freon leakage. The minimum you will need: socket wrenches, pliers and a multimeter to check the windings.

How to understand that the compressor is damaged. is faulty without disassembling the refrigerator?

Signs of a compressor failure:

  • The refrigerator does not cool, but the light inside is on.
  • The compressor hums, but does not start (protection is activated after 5-10 seconds).
  • The compressor housing gets very hot (over 80–90°C).
  • Traces of melting are visible on the relay terminals.

For an accurate diagnosis, measure the resistance of the windings with a multimeter.

How much does a new compressor cost for Indesit?

The price depends on the model and power:

  • Budget compressors (for example, EMBRACO EG80) - from 4,000 to 6,000 rubles.
  • Medium power (SEC ZR18) — 7,000–10,000 rub.
  • For two-chamber refrigerators (Danfoss NL12) — 12,000–15,000 rub.

Plus add the cost of freon (500–1,500 rub.) and filter-drier (300–800 rub.).

Is it possible to use a used compressor?

Yes, but with reservations:

  • Check it for winding resistance and absence of mechanical damage.
  • Make sure that the model is compatible with your refrigerator (in terms of power and freon type).
  • A used compressor may have worn bearings, which will shorten its service life.

Average the price of a used unit is 2,000–5,000 rubles., but the risk of repeated breakdown is higher.

What to do if after replacing the compressor the refrigerator does not freeze?

Possible reasons:

  • Lack of freon (needs refilling).
  • Clogged capillary tube (nitrogen purge required).
  • Malfunction of the thermostat or control board.
  • Leak at the soldering point of the tubes (check with soap solution).

If you have no experience, contact a specialist for diagnostics.