Old or faulty Refrigerators often take up valuable space in a garage or shed, but for an experienced craftsman, they are not just junk, but a valuable source of non-ferrous metals. The main value in the composition of a household refrigeration unit is precisely compressor, inside of which a significant amount of clean electrolytic copperis hidden. Proper disposal of household appliances allows you not only to free up space, but also to receive financial benefits from scrap disposal.
The process of extracting metal requires certain knowledge of the design of the device, since the motor housing is under high pressure and is often filled with oil. Careless handling of the tool can lead to injury or damage to valuable raw materials that turn into small chips. In this article, we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will allow you to remove the copper winding as efficiently and safely as possible.
Before you begin physical impact on the unit, you need to prepare the workplace and make sure you have all the necessary tools. Ignoring safety precautions when working with metal and electrical components is unacceptable, since freon residues and compressor oil can be dangerous.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to open the compressor without first releasing the refrigerant pressure. A sudden release of gas under pressure can damage the eyes or skin, and freon vapors are toxic if inhaled in a confined space.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
For high-quality disassembly, you will need a set of plumbing tools, which can be found in the garage of any home craftsman. The main tool will be an angle grinder, popularly called a “grinder”, equipped with a metal cutting disc. It is this that will allow you to quickly open a durable steel case without damaging the internal winding.
In addition to power tools, you will need manual tools for dismantling components. A heavy hammer, chisel, pliers and a set of screwdrivers will be your faithful assistants in the process of removing the stator. Also, do not forget to prepare a container for draining used compressor oil, which may leak if the housing seal is broken.
- 🛡️ Personal protective equipment: glasses, gloves, respirator
- 🔧 Angle grinder with metal discs
- 🔨 Hammer, chisel, sledgehammer (for heavy work)
- 🗑️ Container for technical oil and rags
The work place should be well ventilated, since when cutting metal and heating the windings, an unpleasant smell of burning or varnish residues may be released. If you plan to disassemble several units, it makes sense to organize a shed or work outdoors to avoid the accumulation of harmful substances.
☑️ Preparing to disassemble the compressor
Compressor design and copper output
Understanding the internal structure of a piston compressor helps you act more confidently and efficiently. Inside the sealed “tank” there is an electric motor, consisting of a stator with a copper winding and a rotor, as well as the piston mechanism itself, driven by this motor. We are interested in exactly statorwhere the copper wire is wound.
The amount of copper directly depends on the power and dimensions of the unit. On average, from one standard household compressor you can get from 300 to 600 grams of pure copper, although in powerful models of old Soviet refrigerators the yield can reach 1.2 kg. The rest of the mass is made up of steel, cast iron and aluminum, which are also subject to delivery, but are cheaper.
The copper winding is usually coated with a special heat-resistant varnish, which protects the turns from overheating and short circuits. When handing over scrap, receivers can evaluate copper as “burnt” or “micro” if there are remnants of varnish and insulation on it, so the purity of the metal affects the final price.
Why is the copper inside the compressor so valuable?
Copper has excellent electrical conductivity and ductility, which makes it indispensable in electrical engineering. Unlike aluminum, copper does not oxidize as quickly and can withstand higher current loads, so its value on the scrap market is always higher.
It is worth noting that the design may vary depending on the manufacturer. Models Atlant, Indesit or Samsung have a similar structure, but may differ in the way the stator is mounted inside the casing and the thickness of the housing wall.
| Compressor type | Approximate weight | Copper output (g) | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single-phase (household) | 10-12 kg | 300-500 | Standard winding, easy to open |
| Two-phase (powerful) | 14-16 kg | 600-900 | Thicker wire, massive stator |
| Inverter | 8-10 kg | 200-400 | Sophisticated electronics, less copper in the motor |
| Soviet (KhKD) | 15-18 kg | 800-1200 | A lot of copper, heavy body |
Primary preparation and draining of technical fluids
The first stage of work is to disconnect the compressor from the refrigeration system, if this has not been done previously. It is necessary to cut through the copper tubes coming from the condenser and evaporator, leaving small “stumps” on the fittings so that dust does not get inside. Then the unit must be turned over and allowed to stand so that the remaining oil drains into the prepared container.
Used oil is a hazardous waste and requires proper disposal. It should not be poured down the drain or onto the ground, as one liter of oil can contaminate a huge area of soil. Collect the liquid in a plastic canister and take it to a waste oil products collection point.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to speed up the draining of the oil by heating the body with a burner. Freon residues mixed with oil and air can form an explosive mixture when heated. Allow the liquid to drain by gravity for 15-20 minutes.
After draining the liquid, inspect the housing for the presence of electronic control boards. In modern models, the control unit can be built directly into the casing or attached externally. Electronics must be carefully dismantled, as they contain precious metals, but are not scrap copper.
Opening the housing and removing the stator
The most important and time-consuming stage is the mechanical opening of the sealed casing. A grinder is used for this. It is necessary to make two circular cuts: one in the upper part (where the dome is located), and the second in the lower part, retreating approximately 5-7 cm from the bottom of the housing, so as not to touch the stator itself.
After the top cover is cut off, the internal contents will open in front of you. The stator is usually attached to the housing by three spring hangers or rigid brackets. If the fastening is spring, they need to be compressed or cut with side cutters. If the stator is welded or stuck by spot welding, you will have to work with a chisel and hammer, carefully separating the core from the walls.
- 🔪 Cut the upper part of the housing in a circle
- 🔩 Disconnect the spring motor mounts
- 🏋️ Remove “insides” (stator with rotor) out
- ✂️ Cut off the copper tubes from the compressor pipes
Sometimes the rotor sits tightly on the shaft and interferes with access to the winding. In this case, it can be knocked out by applying several strong blows to the shaft with a hammer, after first fixing the stator. The main thing is not to damage the copper coils, since their integrity affects the convenience of further processing.
At this stage you gain access to the “heart” of the compressor. Now the metal frame with winding lies in front of you, and you can begin the final stage - separating the copper from the iron.
Separation copper from iron: methods and nuances
There are two main ways to extract copper: mechanical (manual) and thermal (roasting). The mechanical method involves cutting the turns on one side of the coil and pulling out bundles of wire on the other. This is long and labor-intensive, but allows you to maintain the quality of the metal and avoid environmental pollution.
The thermal method (roasting) is more popular among scrap collectors, as it significantly speeds up the process. The stator is placed in a fire or oven where the varnish burns off and the copper becomes soft and easily peeled off. However, this method has its own risks and disadvantages that you need to be aware of.
⚠️ Attention: When insulation is burned, acrid black smoke containing toxic compounds is released. Firing can be carried out only in the open air, away from residential buildings, on the leeward side. Using an open fire in a garage or shed is deadly!
If you choose the firing method, monitor the temperature. Copper melts at a temperature of 1083°C, but when strongly heated in air, it begins to oxidize, becoming covered with a black coating of oxide, which reduces its grade upon delivery. It is enough to heat the winding to a dark cherry color and let it cool.
Is it possible to use a blowtorch for firing?
You can use a blowtorch, but it is ineffective for a large volume. The flame will blow out heat and the stator will heat up unevenly. It is better to make a small fire from dry wood or use an old metal barrel with holes for draft.
After the burned stator has cooled, the copper bundles can be easily shaken out or pulled out with pliers. The iron remains in the form of a set of plates, which can also be sold as ferrous scrap. The separation of materials is completed.
Sorting and preparing copper for delivery
The resulting copper must be sorted. If you removed the winding without firing, you will have “shine” - a wire in varnish insulation. If fire was used - “burning”. Reception points accept these categories differently, and “shiny” always costs more.
Carefully inspect the mined metal for the presence of solder, tinned areas or inclusions of aluminum. Often in compressors, to reduce weight, part of the winding (especially in cheap models) can be made of aluminum or bimetal. Aluminum wire is lighter and has a silver color at the break; it must be separated from the copper.
Pack the copper in bags or boxes. It is inconvenient to hand over metal in bulk, as small pieces can get lost. Take the steel parts of the compressor (case, stator plates, shaft) to a pile of black scrap, and aluminum tubes and casings to aluminum.
Do not forget to weigh the result. Knowing the approximate yield of copper from the table above, you can evaluate the effectiveness of your work and understand whether the time spent was worth the amount received.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
How much can you really earn on one compressor?
Income depends on current scrap prices and the weight of the extracted copper. On average, 0.5 kg of copper comes out of one compressor. If the price of copper is about 600-700 rubles per kg, then the profit will be 300-350 rubles. Iron will add another 50-70 rubles. In total, you can get about 400 rubles from one unit.
Is the freon remaining in the compressor dangerous?
In small quantities with a single inhalation, freon does not cause instant poisoning, but it displaces oxygen and can cause suffocation in a confined space. Upon contact with an open flame, freon breaks down to form phosgene, a chemical warfare agent. Therefore, it is strictly forbidden to open the compressor near fire or smoking.
Is there gold or silver in the compressor?
There are no precious metals in the electric motor itself (stator and rotor). They may be contained in microscopic quantities in the contacts of the start relay or the electronic control board if it is built into the housing. However, the content of precious metals there is so low that their extraction at home does not make economic sense.
What to do if the wire inside is not copper?
If the wire at the break is silver and does not magnetize (or is weakly magnetized), most likely it is aluminum. It can also be returned, but the price for aluminum scrap is much lower. Old Soviet compressors almost always used pure copper; modern Chinese analogues often use aluminum.