The situation when the refrigerator stops cooling, and there is a loud hum inside or, conversely, there is deathly silence, is familiar many owners of household appliances. Often the cause of the breakdown is compressor, which is the heart of the entire refrigeration system. When deciding to repair it yourself, you must be aware of the seriousness of the upcoming task, since dismantling this unit requires not only physical effort, but also special knowledge. Incorrect actions can lead to permanent failure of the device or even create a dangerous situation.
Before starting work, it is extremely important to understand that the compressor is a sealed unit filled with oil and refrigerant. Opening its case at home without professional equipment for vacuuming and refilling with freon is almost impossible and pointless. Usually, by the phrase “disassemble the compressor,” amateur craftsmen mean it dismantling from the frame of the refrigerator for subsequent replacement or diagnostics at a service center. It is this process that we will consider in as much detail as possible.
In this article we will analyze all the stages of preparation, the necessary tools and the sequence of actions so that you can safely remove the motor-compressor. Remember that electricity and refrigerant are unforgiving, so follow the instructions exactly step by step. Your safety and the safety of the rest of the refrigerator equipment are a priority.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
Any repair of household appliances begins with the competent organization of the workspace. You will need a clear area with good lighting where you can place the refrigerator on its side. Prepare all the tools in advance so as not to interrupt the process with searching. The main tool will be an open-end wrench or a 10 mm socket, since this is the type of fastener most often used in refrigerators Indesit, Atlant and Beko.
In addition to the basic set, you will need specific devices for working with copper tubes. You will need a pipe cutter to carefully cut the lines, and narrow-nose pliers. Do not forget about a container to collect oil that may leak from the system during depressurization. Also prepare electrical tape or special plugs to immediately close the holes in the tubes and prevent moisture from entering the system.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! Unplug the cord from the outlet. Working with live electrical appliances is deadly.
To protect your hands, use thick work gloves, as the edges of metal elements and tubes can be sharp. If your model uses specific fasteners, you may need a set of screwdrivers, including a Phillips and a flat head. Having a flashlight will help you better see the hidden elements in the compressor niche.
☑️ Tools for dismantling
Access to the motor-compressor and visual inspection
After the refrigerator is turned off and defrosted, it must be carefully placed on its side. It is best to lay the unit on the side opposite to the location of the compressor so that the oil does not immediately leak into the system, although this is not so critical during a complete replacement. Remove the back metal panel that covers the bottom of the refrigerator. Usually it is attached to several self-tapping screws, which can be easily unscrewed with a regular Phillips screwdriver.
Once you open access, you will see a black barrel-shaped element - this is it motor-compressor. Examine it carefully from all sides. Pay attention to the condition of the start relay, which is often placed directly on the compressor contacts. The relay may be enclosed in a plastic casing. Also evaluate the integrity of the copper tubes: if they are blackened or have traces of corrosion, perhaps the problem is not only in the motor.
Visual inspection helps to identify obvious mechanical damage. If the compressor housing shows dents, deep scratches or traces of oil, this may indicate a leak. In such cases, further operation is impossible without completely replacing the unit. Also check for broken wires going to the terminal block.
Disconnecting the electrical part and the start relay
The next step is to disconnect the electrical components. There are three contacts on the compressor housing, onto which a start relay is attached. In some models, for example, in refrigerators LG or Samsung, the relay can be additionally secured with latches or a screw. Carefully remove the protective plastic casing, if present.
To remove the relay itself, you just need to pull it down, after first squeezing the fixing tabs, if any. Do not use excessive force to avoid breaking the plastic fasteners. Inside the relay you will see contacts that may be oxidized. If you plan to change only the compressor, the old relay, as a rule, also needs to be replaced, since its resource may have been exhausted.
After dismantling the relay, disconnect the wires coming from the thermostat or control board. To do this, you may need to open the connecting block or cut the wires if they are soldered. In the second case, be sure to strip the ends of the new wires when installing new equipment. It is important to remember or mark which wire went where, using markings or colors.
Working with copper lines and refrigerant
The most crucial moment is disconnecting the copper tubes. The system contains refrigerant that is under pressure. Simply unscrewing the nuts will not work here, since the ends of the tubes are usually sealed or welded. You will need a pipe cutter or high-quality side cutters for cutting metal.
Step back from the entrance to the compressor about 10-15 centimeters and cut the suction and discharge tubes. Be prepared for the residual gas pressure to escape with a hiss. The oil inside may begin to leak out, so place a prepared container. Be careful not to deform the remaining ends of the tubes coming from the evaporator and condenser.
⚠️ Warning: Refrigerant may be flammable or toxic in high concentrations. Ensure good ventilation of the room. Do not use open fire near the gas outlet!
After disconnecting the tubes, you must immediately plug the holes in the refrigerator system and on the new compressor. To do this, use rubber plugs or simply seal the holes tightly with electrical tape. The ingress of moisture or dust into the copper lines is strictly unacceptable, as this will lead to clogging of the capillary tube and rapid failure of new equipment.
Why can’t you leave the system open?
Copper inside the tubes oxidizes upon contact with air, and moisture, reacting with the refrigerant and oil, forms acid, which corrodes the motor winding from the inside.
Removing the compressor from the refrigerator frame
Now that all communications are disconnected, you can begin to physically remove the unit. The compressor is secured to the metal frame or bottom of the refrigerator using four bolts with rubber bushings. These bushings serve to dampen vibration during engine operation. Often the bolts have threads pointing upward and are secured with nuts from the bottom, or vice versa.
Use an appropriately sized open-end wrench to remove the mounting nuts. If the bolts are rusty, which often happens in the bottom of the refrigerator due to condensation, use a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40. Give the lubricant time to work before attempting to remove the fastener. Sudden jerks can break the studs, which will complicate the installation of new equipment.
After unscrewing all the bolts, the compressor may still be supported by the weight of the tubes or wires. Carefully holding the housing with both hands, remove it from the mounting studs. This unit usually weighs between 8 and 12 kilograms, so be careful not to drop it on your foot or damage the floor. Place the dismantled assembly on the prepared surface.
Table of typical malfunctions during dismantling
During the disassembly process, you may encounter various complications. Below is a table that will help you identify the problem and choose the right solution. Understanding the nature of the malfunction will save you time and nerves.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Recommended action |
|---|---|---|
| Bolts do not unscrew | Corrosion threads | Treat with penetrating lubricant, wait 15 minutes |
| Black oil | Motor winding combustion | Full flushing of the refrigerator system is required |
| Pipes deformed | Mechanical impact | Carefully straighten or replace the section of the line |
| The relay cracks when removed | Destruction of the inner plate | Replace the starting relay with a new one before checking |
Pay attention to the color of the oil that flows from the old compressor. If it is transparent and light, this is a good sign. If the oil is black, has a burning smell or contains metal shavings, it means that a breakdown of the winding insulation has occurred in the system. In this case, simply replacing the compressor without thoroughly flushing the entire system with special solvents will not give a long-lasting result.
Shavings and combustion products will spread throughout the entire refrigeration circuit and quickly clog the capillary tube of the new motor. Therefore, if you find black oil, be prepared for more complex repairs, including purging with nitrogen and replacing the filter-drier.
Nuances of working with different models of refrigerators
The design of the compressor mounting may vary depending on the manufacturer. Refrigerators Atlant often use a suspension system on springs, where the motor hangs on four studs. It is important here not to lose the springs and rubber washers. In models Beko or Indesit the compressor can be installed on a rigid base screwed to the bottom of the cabinet.
Inverter compressors, which are becoming increasingly popular, require even more careful handling. They do not have a start relay in the classical sense, but are controlled by an electronic unit. When dismantling them, it is important not to damage the electronic boards that may be integrated into the case or located nearby.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics and design of components may be changed by manufacturers. Always check the technical documentation of a specific model before starting disassembly.
If you are the owner of a refrigerator with a system No Frost, make sure that during dismantling you do not touch the fans or sensors located in the lower niche. Access to the compressor in such models is sometimes limited by additional plastic screens, which require careful handling, since the plastic becomes brittle over time.
Is it possible to repair an old compressor?
At home - no. The sealed case is not intended to be opened. An attempt to cut it will lead to depressurization and the impossibility of further operation.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to replace the compressor yourself without vacuuming?
No, this is impossible. After installing a new compressor and soldering the tubes, air remains in the system, which contains moisture. Without evacuation and refilling with freon, the refrigerator will not work, and the compressor will burn out very quickly.
How much does it cost to replace a compressor in the service?
The price consists of the cost of a new unit, the work of a technician, refilling with freon and consumables. On average, this amounts to a significant amount, often comparable to 30-50% of the cost of a new refrigerator.
Why does a new compressor get hotter than the old one?
Modern models can operate at higher housing temperatures due to their design features and the refrigerants used. If the temperature does not exceed 80-90 degrees and the refrigerator freezes, this may be the norm.
Is it necessary to flush the system if the old motor is burned out?
Yes, definitely. The combustion products of the winding will spread throughout the entire system, and they will quickly damage the new compressor or clog the capillary tube.