Self-diagnosis and dismantling the compressor is a complex technical process that requires not only a set of tools, but also an understanding of the principles of operation of the refrigeration circuit. Many owners of household appliances are faced with a situation where the unit stops freezing, but calling a technician is not always possible or economically justifiable. In such cases, it becomes necessary to carry out a visual inspection, check the windings or replace the failed unit.
However, it should immediately be noted that hermetic compressorinstalled in most modern models is not structurally intended for disassembly at home. Its body is spot welded, and the internal components are under high pressure. If your goal is a complete overhaul of internal mechanics, then you cannot do without a specialized machine and vacuum equipment. But if the task is to carefully remove the motor from the refrigerator body for replacement or disposal, then this procedure is quite doable subject to strict safety rules.
Before starting any manipulations, you must clearly understand the risks associated with electricity and refrigerant. Residual pressure in the system can be dangerous, and improper handling of copper pipes will lead to freon leakage. Next, we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions, the necessary tools and nuances that will help avoid fatal mistakes when working with a refrigeration unit.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to open the welded compressor housing with an angle grinder or a hacksaw without first bleeding the refrigerant and removing the oil, since freon vapor in combination with a spark can form toxic compounds, and the oil will flare up instantly.
Necessary tools and precautions
High-quality preparation of the workplace and the availability of the right tools make up more than half the success of the operation. To dismantle the motor, you will need a basic set of plumbing tools, as well as specific tools for working with copper. Failure to use the correct wrench can result in broken bolt edges or damaged tubes, making further repairs impossible or extremely costly.
First of all, ensure good lighting in the work area and access to the back of the refrigerator. You will need the following tools:
- 🔧 A set of open-end and socket wrenches (sizes from 8 to 14 mm) for unscrewing the mounting bolts.
- 🔪 Needle-nosed pliers or side cutters for cutting copper tubes if they cannot be soldered.
- 🔥 Gas torch or powerful hair dryer to soften the solder (if you plan to preserve the tubes).
- 🧤 Protective gloves and glasses to protect against oil splashes and sharp metal edges.
Pay special attention to electrical safety. Before touching any part, make sure the power cord is plugged into the outlet. Even after being disconnected, the start relay capacitor may retain a charge, so do not touch the contacts with bare hands. Also --WIDGET:tip:Use a respirator when working with a burner, since when old insulation and residual oil are heated, acrid smoke may be released that irritates the respiratory tract.--> physically disabled from the socket. Even after being disconnected, the start relay capacitor may retain a charge, so do not touch the contacts with bare hands. Also --WIDGET:tip:Use a respirator when working with the burner, as when old insulation and oil residues are heated, acrid smoke may be released that irritates the respiratory tract.-->
Preparing the refrigerator for dismantling the compressor
The preparation process begins long before you will pick up the first instrument. The refrigerator must be completely defrosted, since working with power tools or a burner near ice is unacceptable. Water that gets on hot metal or electrical circuits can cause a short circuit or deformation of parts due to sudden temperature changes.
Move the unit away from the wall, ensuring access from all sides. Remove the rear protective panel, which is usually secured with screws or plastic clips. In some models Indesit or Atlant access to the compressor may be limited to the lower part of the housing, which will also need to be removed. Inspect the space: if dust or cobwebs have accumulated there, carefully remove them with a vacuum cleaner so that debris does not get into the mechanisms.
The next critical step is bleeding the refrigerant. In a sealed system there is always pressure present. If you simply bite the pipe, the gas will come out with a characteristic whistle, taking with it oil particles. Professionals use a needle puncture through the Schrader valve, but at home they most often make a neat cut or drill the part of the tube farthest from the compressor. This should be done in a well-ventilated area
⚠️ Attention: Never carry out dismantling work in a closed room without ventilation. Refrigerants are heavier than air and can accumulate below, creating a risk of suffocation, especially in small technical rooms.
After the gas has escaped, the oil must be drained. To do this, turn the compressor upside down over the prepared container. Dark, waste liquid will flow from the open tubes. This process may take 15 to 30 minutes until the system stops dripping. Only after this can you begin to disconnect the electrical part.
Disconnecting the electrical circuit and start relay
The electrical part of the compressor is covered with a plastic casing, which is secured with latches or screws. Carefully remove this cover, being careful not to damage the fragile plastic, which may have become brittle over time. Under the casing you will see a starting and protective relay placed on the motor contacts. It is through these elements that current is supplied to the windings.
First of all, take a photo of the connection diagram. Despite the fact that there are few wires, the color markings may differ in models of different brands, such as LG or Bosch. Remember or sketch which wire goes where. Then loosen the clamp or clamp holding the connector in place and remove the power connector. If the wires go directly into the terminal box, they will need to be cut off with side cutters, leaving a margin for a possible future connection.
Removing the relay itself requires caution. It is simply pulled over the three contacts of the compressor. Grasp the relay housing and, rocking it from side to side, pull it down. Do not use excessive force to avoid breaking the ceramic element inside. After removing the relay, inspect the contacts for oxidation or carbon deposits - this may be an indirect sign of a malfunction electric motor.
- 📸 Take a photo of the connection before disconnecting any wires.
- 🧩 Check the integrity of the plastic of the start relay when removing.
- 🔌 Make sure that the wires are not strained and do not interfere with further access.
What is inside the start relay?
Inside the plastic housing of the relay there is a posistor (thermistor) and contacts. When voltage is applied, the posistor heats up and opens the starting winding circuit. If it is cracked or blackened, the compressor will hum, but will not start.
Disconnecting the copper tubes from the compressor
This is the most critical stage that requires care. The compressor is connected to the system by two tubes: one suction (thick), the other discharge (thin). They can be soldered or welded. If you plan to reuse the old compressor, the tubes must be soldered off. If the motor is being replaced or disposed of, they can be sawed through.
For sawing, use a pipe cutter or a hacksaw for metal with a fine tooth. The main thing is not to deform the fittings of the compressor itself if you plan to use them. Make the cut carefully so that metal shavings do not get inside the motor housing. This can lead to jamming of the piston group upon first start-up. After cutting the tubes, it is recommended to immediately plug the holes in the compressor with rubber plugs or a clean rag to prevent moisture and dust from getting inside.
If the soldering method is used, heat the joint evenly with a torch. When the solder becomes liquid, the tube can be removed with a slight movement. Be careful: copper heats up instantly and takes a long time to cool down. When working with the burner near plastic or refrigerator insulation, be sure to use a screen made of tin or asbestos so as not to melt the body of the unit.
Dismantling compressor from the refrigerator frame
The compressor is attached to the metal frame of the refrigerator, usually with four bolts with rubber bushings. These bushings dampen vibration when the engine is running. Over time, the rubber may harden or crack, and the bolts may become rusty. Before unscrewing, treat the threads with a penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) and let it stand for 10-15 minutes.
Unscrew the bolts diagonally, gradually loosening the tension. When the fasteners are removed, the compressor will remain on the rubber shock absorbers. You need to lift it carefully, since the weight of the unit can reach 10-12 kg, and its shape is inconvenient to grip. It is best to pry it from below or use an assistant. Sudden jerks can damage the remaining condenser tubes located at the rear.
If the compressor cannot be removed, check for additional mounting plates or clamps, which are specific to some models Samsung or Whirlpool. Sometimes the motor is fixed with an additional bracket on top. After removal, inspect the rubber bushings: if they have lost elasticity, they must be replaced when installing a new unit, otherwise vibration will be transmitted to the refrigerator body.
| Type of malfunction | External sign | Probable cause | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Winding break | The compressor hums, but does not start | Burned wire inside | Replacing the motor |
| Jagging | Strong hum, heating, protection is triggered | Lack of oil, wear of friction pairs | Attempt to wedge or replacement |
| Current leakage | Case is electrocuted | Insulation breakdown on the casing | Urgent replacement, dangerous! |
| Low compression | It freezes slightly, works non-stop | Wear of the piston group, valves | Replacement of the compressor |
Features of disassembling the sealed housing (for disposal)
If your goal is not replacement, but namely disassembling the motor itself to obtain non-ferrous metal (copper and steel), the process is radically different. The sealed housing (casing) is sawn with an angle grinder (grinder) along the equator. This must be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the insides and not create a spark in the environment of possible oil residues.
After removing the top cover of the casing, the electric motor and compressor part will open in front of you. They are rigidly connected by a shaft. To extract the copper, the stator must be removed. To do this, the front winding connections are cut, and the copper is pulled out of the grooves. The internal volume is filled with oil, so you will have to work with gloves that you don’t mind throwing away.
Inside you will find aluminum or copper windings, steel stator and rotor plates, as well as a piston group. All these materials are sorted for scrap metal. It is important to understand that it will no longer be possible to assemble such a compressor back - this is a one-time design, and the tightness of the housing during factory welding provides a pressure of up to 30 atmospheresthat cannot be reproduced in a garage environment.
⚠️ Attention: When sawing the housing, use a protective face shield. The springs inside the mechanism are under tension and, when cut, can fly off at high speed, injuring your eyes.
☑️ Checklist before starting work
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Can it be repaired refrigerator compressor yourself?
Full repairs (replacement of valves, pistons) at home are impossible due to the need to create a vacuum and precise factory soldering. Only replacement of the entire compressor or the start relay is available.
How much oil should be in the compressor when replacing?
Oil is usually not added to a new compressor, since it is already filled. If you are changing only the motor, the amount of oil must strictly correspond to the specification of the model (usually from 200 to 300 ml), otherwise the system will not work correctly.
Why is the compressor hot to the touch?
The operating temperature of the housing can reach 70-90 degrees Celsius, which is normal. However, if it is hot beyond touching and does not turn off, this is a sign of a malfunction of the thermostat or loss of refrigerant.
Is it necessary to vacuum the system after installing a new motor?
Yes, this is a mandatory procedure. Without evacuation, moisture and air will remain in the system, which will lead to the formation of ice plugs and rapid breakdown of the new compressor.
Is it possible to use a car compressor for a refrigerator?
Theoretically, it is possible, but the efficiency will be extremely low. Car compressors are not designed to create a deep vacuum and work with freon in a closed cycle, so such a replacement is impractical.