Disassembling the refrigerator into parts: step-by-step instructions with nuances for different models

Disassembling a refrigerator for parts is a task encountered during major repairs, disposal or sale of parts. The process requires care: refrigerant, electrical circuits and fragile components are hidden inside the housing. Without preparation, you can damage compressor, spoil heat exchanger or cause a freon leak - the consequences will cost more than saving on the services of a specialist.

This article will help you disassemble the refrigerator independently, avoiding common mistakes. We will analyze the general algorithm, the nuances for models with the system No Frost and drip defrosting, and also tell you how to safely remove the compressor, capacitor and electronic boards. If your goal is repair and not disposal, pay attention to the sections about the safety of parts and marking of wires.

⚠️ Warning: Refrigerators older than 2000 may use refrigerant R-12 (Freon-12), which is prohibited for free circulation. Its leakage or improper disposal will result in fines under Article 8.2 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation. Before disassembling, check the type of refrigerant in the device passport or on the compressor nameplate.

1. Preparing for disassembly: tools and safety precautions

Before you begin, make sure that the refrigerator unplugged at least 12 hours in advance. This is necessary to discharge capacitors in electronic boards - even a switched-off device can produce an electric shock if handled carelessly. Also prepare your work space: the refrigerator should be on a flat surface, and there should be enough space around it to lay out the parts.

You will need tools:

• 🔧 A set of screwdrivers (phillips and flathead, including Torx T10-T20 for modern models)
• 🔨 Pliers and side cutters (for crimping tubes and cutting clamps)
• 📏 Multimeter (for checking circuits and resistance of compressor windings)
• 🧤 Rubber gloves and glasses (protection from freon and metal shavings)
• 📦 Plastic containers or bags (for sorting screws and small parts)

If you are dismantling a refrigerator for disposal, arrange in advance with a scrap metal collection point or a service center for the removal of equipment. Some parts (for example, the compressor) contain oil and refrigerant and should not be disposed of with household waste.

⚠️ Attention: In models with No Frost the fan and defrost heater may be energized even after unplugging. Before working with these components, be sure to discharge the capacitors by shorting their terminals with a screwdriver with an insulated handle.

2. Removing the door and dismantling the seal

The refrigerator door is attached to hinges, which can be hidden by decorative plugs. In most models (Atlant, Biryusa, LG), it is enough to unscrew the screws from the bottom and top of the hinge, but in some cases (for example, Samsung RL-series) you will need to first remove the top cover of the case.

Algorithm for removing the door:

1. Open the door 90° and place a support under it (for example, a stack of books) so that it does not fall when the hinges are loosened.
2. Unscrew the screws of the bottom hinge, then carefully lift the door up, removing it from the top pin.
3. Place the door on a soft surface (for example, a blanket) face down.

The sealing rubber (magnetic seal) is attached either to self-tapping screws or in a groove in the plastic case. To remove it without damage:

• 🔹 Pry the edge of the seal with a flat screwdriver and pull it towards you.
• 🔹 If the rubber is glued, heat it with a hairdryer (temperature no higher than 60°C) to soften it glue.
• 🔹 Mark the top of the seal with a marker - when reinstalling it, do not twist it.

⚠️ Attention: In two-chamber refrigerators (Indesit, Bosch), the freezer may have a separate heated seal. Do not pull the wires - first disconnect the power connector from the control board.

3. Dismantling the internal space: shelves, evaporator, fan

After removing the door, proceed to dismantling the internal elements. Start with shelves and containers - they usually do not have a rigid attachment and are simply removed. In models with fresh zones (for example, Liebherr), you may need to unscrew the guides.

To access evaporator (cooling radiator) and fan (No Frost) follow these steps:

• 🔧 Remove the back panel of the refrigerator compartment - it is attached with latches or screws under decorative plugs.
• ❄️ In models with a drip system, the evaporator is hidden under plastic box. Carefully pry it off with a screwdriver, starting from the top corner.
• 🌀 In refrigerators No Frost first disconnect the fan connector, then unscrew its fastening (usually 3-4 screws).

Pay special attention temperature sensors —they can be built into the evaporator or located on the walls of the chamber. In models Samsung and LG sensors are often mounted on clips, and in Atlanta - on screws. Do not pull the wires so as not to tear off the contacts!

⚠️ Attention: If you see ice on the evaporator or fan, let the refrigerator thaw at room temperature for 6-8 hours. Attempting to remove ice mechanically can damage the aluminum fins of the evaporator.

How to distinguish an evaporator from a condenser?

The evaporator is located inside in the refrigerator/freezer compartment and looks like a coil made of aluminum tubes with ribs. The condenser is located outsideusually on the back wall, and is a black grid of copper tubes.

4. Removing the compressor and condenser

The compressor is the most valuable component of the refrigerator, and its removal requires care. Before starting work be sure to pinch the copper tubes (suction and discharge) with pliers 2-3 cm from the compressor to prevent oil and freon leakage. In modern models (Whirlpool, Electrolux), the tubes can be sealed - in this case, use a pipe cutter.

Procedure action:

1. Unscrew the compressor mounting plate (usually 4 bolts).
2. Disconnect the start relay - it is attached with clips or screws to the compressor body.
3. Break the tubes closer to the compressor, leaving a margin of 10–15 cm for future soldering.
4. Carefully remove the compressor without dropping it - the impact may damage the windings.

The capacitor (grid on the back wall) is secured with screws or rivets. To remove it:

• 🔧 Unscrew the fastenings around the perimeter.
• 🔪 Pry up the rivets with a screwdriver if there are no screws.
• 🧲 Use a magnet to collect metal shavings so that they do not fall into the compressor.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators with inverter compressor (Samsung Digital Inverter, LG Linear) the electronic control board may be integrated into the compressor housing. Do not disconnect it without first photographing the connectors!

5. Working with electronic boards and sensors

The electronic control unit (ECU) is the most vulnerable element during disassembly. In refrigerators it is often located under the top cover, and in refrigerators it is often located on the back wall. Before removing: Beko, Gorenje And Hansa it is often located under the top cover, and in Samsung And LG - on the back wall. Before extraction:

• 📸 Take a photo of the location of all connectors and jumpers.
• 🔌 Disconnect the board from the network, starting with the main power (usually red and black wires).
• 🛠️ Unscrew the fastening screws while holding the board with your hand - it may fall and damage the tracks.

Temperature sensors (NTC or PTC) are mounted either on clips or on thermal paste. To remove them:

1. Carefully pry up the sensor with a flat-head screwdriver.
2. Wipe the mounting area with alcohol to remove any remaining paste.
3. Label the sensors (for example, “DHK” - refrigerator compartment sensor), as they may look the same, but have different resistance.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators with a display (Samsung RB-series, LG Door-in-Door), the control board can be connected to the display with a cable. Do not pull the cable - first release the connector lock.

6. Recycling and sale of parts: what can be profitably returned

If the purpose of disassembly is recycling, divide the parts into groups:

• 🔄 Recyclable: copper (pipes, condenser), aluminum (evaporator), steel (housing).
• ♻️ Disposal: polyurethane foam (internal insulation), plastic with marking PS or ABS.
• 💰 Sales: compressor, control board, fan No Frost, seal (if in good condition).

Prices for used spare parts (according to Avito and Yula for 2026):

• Compressor (Danfoss, Embraco) — 3 000–8 000 ₽.
• Control board (Samsung, LG) — 2 500–6 000 ₽.
• Fan No Frost — 800–1 500 ₽.
• Sealing rubber - 500–1,200 ₽ (per set).

⚠️ Attention: When selling a compressor, indicate its model (written on the nameplate) and type refrigerant (R-134a, R-600a). Buyers often look for spare parts for a specific brand of refrigerator.

Polyurethane foam from the walls of the case cannot be burned or thrown into a landfill - it emits toxic gases. Take it to a hazard class 4 waste collection point or check with your local office. administration addresses of landfills for solid waste.

7. Typical mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen make mistakes when disassembling. Here are the most common:

• 🔌 Untested capacitors: Discharging capacitors with a screwdriver without insulation can lead to electric shock. Use a spark gap or resistor 10. kOhm.
• 🔪 Damage to the tubes: When cutting copper tubes, do not use a grinder - metal shavings will clog the capillary tube!
• 📱 Loss of screws: Screws from loops, compressor and boards often differ in size. Store them in separate bags with labels.
• ❄️ Defrosting. "manually": Chipping ice with a knife or screwdriver leads to punctures of the evaporator.

If you disassemble the refrigerator for repair, avoid these mistakes:

• 🔧 Do not mark the wires when disconnecting the board - then you will have to test the circuits with a multimeter.
• 🧲 Do not check the compressor for operation before installation. Check the windings: the resistance between the terminals should be 10–30 Ohms.
• 📏 Do not clean the relay contacts from oxidation. Use an eraser or alcohol.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators Side-by-Side (Samsung RS-series, LG GC-series) the left and right doors have different hinge designs. Do not confuse them when reassembling!

How to check compressor without connection?

Connect the compressor windings to a 9V battery (for a short time!): if the relay clicks, the compressor is most likely working. For accurate diagnosis, a pressure test is needed.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about disassembling refrigerators

Is it possible? disassemble a refrigerator without experience? Yes, but start with simple models (for example,

Yes, but start with simple models (eg Atlant or Biryusa with a drip system). Refrigerators No Frost and Side-by-Side are more difficult due to the large number of electronics. repair, it is better to practice on a non-working device.

What freon is used in modern refrigerators?

In 90% of models after 2010 - R-600a (isobutane) or R-134a. In old ones (Stinol, ZIL) it may be R-12 (prohibited). data-i="257">ZIL

What to do if you damaged the tube during disassembly?

If the tube is burst or bent, it can be soldered with silver solder (for copper) or aluminum (for aluminum). After soldering, be sure to flush the system with nitrogen to remove moisture and charge the refrigerant. It’s better to contact a specialist.

How much does it cost to disassemble a refrigerator at a service?

The cost depends on the purpose:

• Diagnostics + disassembly - 1,500–3,000 ₽.
• Disposal with removal - 2,000–5,000 ₽ (includes demercurization if there are mercury sensors).
• Disassembly for sale of spare parts - 3,000–8,000 ₽ (the technician carefully removes the compressor and circuit board).

How to safely dispose freon?

Freon cannot be released into the atmosphere. It must be pumped out into a cylinder using a vacuum pump (the service costs ~1,000 rubles). In some cities there are collection points for refrigerants - check with the local Ministry of Emergency Situations or the eco-center.