Disassembling industrial refrigeration equipment is a task that requires not only technical skills, but also an understanding of the system. Unlike household models, industrial units (for example, Lieherr PKes 1680 or Bitzer CSH) have a complex design with reinforced compressors, multi-circuit evaporators and specialized automation systems. Improper disassembly can lead to freon leakage, damage to electronics, or even a capacitor explosion —therefore, before starting work, it is critical to study the documentation of a specific model and prepare tools.
This article will help you understand the nuances of the process: from turning off the power to dismantling key components. We will consider not only the standard steps, but also typical pitfallsthat technicians encounter when working with refrigerators with a volume of 500 liters or more. We will pay special attention to safety measures - for example, why you cannot disassemble a system with residual freon pressure and how to properly drain the oil from the compressor.
If you are planning disassembly for compressor repair, replacing the evaporator or upgrading the cooling system, please note: industrial refrigerators often have individual connection diagrams (for example, cascade systems in freezers Carrier Transicold). Without a precise understanding of the diagram, disassembly can turn into an expensive breakdown —so the first step is always the same: find the technical data sheet of the device.
In this instruction we focus on the most common models of industrial refrigerators (Danfoss, Copeland, Embraco), but remember: even the same manufacturer may have different fastenings, types of refrigerant and valve locations. If your model is older than 2010, there is a high probability that it uses obsolete R-22 freon, which requires special work. certification.
1. Preparation for disassembly: tools and safety measures
Before you begin disassembly, make sure that you have you have everything you need. Minimum set of tools includes:
- 🔧 Set of open-end and ring wrenches (sizes 8–22 mm)
- 🔨 Screwdrivers with insulated handles (flat and cross)
- 🧲 Manometric manifold for checking pressure
- 🔥 Gas torch or blowtorch (for desoldering tubes)
- 🧤 Protective gloves and glasses (required!)
- 📋 Technical passport refrigerator (connection diagram)
It is critically important: if the refrigerator was running on refrigerant R-404A or R-507, before disassembling it is necessary to completely bleed off the freon in accordance with environmental standards. Independent discharge of refrigerant into the atmosphere is prohibited by law - a fine of up to 200,000 is provided for this rubles (according to Article 8.2 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation). It is better to use the services of a certified company or rent a station for pumping out freon.
Also pay attention to electrical safety:
- ⚡ Unplug the refrigerator and remove the fuses (if any).
- 🔌 Use a tester to make sure there is no voltage on the contacts.
- 🚫 Do not touch capacitors - they can retain their charge even after being disconnected!
⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator is connected to a three-phase network (380 V), a qualified electrician is required to disconnect it. Incorrect disconnection may result in a short circuit or electric shock.
2. and access to the compressor
Start by removing the external protective panels. In most industrial models (for example, Polair HRC or Searle SC) they are secured with bolts or latches. Do not use force - if the panel is not gives in, check whether there are hidden fasteners under the rubber seals.
After removing the panels, you will have access to compressor-condenser. unitHere is what you need to do next:
- Disconnect the power terminals from the compressor (take a photo of the connection diagram first!).
- Check the presence of oil in the compressor crankcase - if the level is below normal, refueling may be required.
- Inspect the tubes for corrosion or mechanical damage.
Typical mistake of beginners: an attempt to immediately unsolder the tubes without first depressurizing the system. This can lead to compressor failure. Before soldering work, be sure to release the residual pressure through the service port. hydraulic. shock and compressor failure. Before soldering, be sure to release any residual pressure through the service port.
Take a photo of the connection diagram
Check the pressure in the system (should be 0 bar)
Mark the position of the pipes with a marker
Prepare plugs for the pipes
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3. Disassembling the evaporator and ventilation system
The evaporator in industrial refrigerators often has forced ventilation (for example, in models Frigoglass or Hoshizaki). data-i="125">forced ventilation
- Remove the internal shelves and trays.
- Disconnect the fans (usually they are secured with 4 bolts).
- Carefully disconnect the drainage tube - it can be secured with clamps.
- Unsolder the copper tubes of the evaporator by pre-heating them with a burner.
Important: if the evaporator is covered with ice, do not try to peel it off with a knife! Use hot air (hair dryer or steam generator) to melt the ice evenly.
In some models (for example, Sanyo SR) the evaporator is integrated with the system No Frost. In this case, you will have to additionally dismantle:
- 🌬️ Defrost heating element
- 💧 Defrost sensor
- ⏱️ Defrost cycle timer
⚠️ Attention: If you notice black spots or traces of corrosion on the evaporator, this may indicate a freon leak through microcracks. In this case, a complete replacement of the unit will be required.
How to check the evaporator for leaks?
Use an electronic leak detector or a soap solution. Apply the solution to suspected leaks (soldered seams, pipe joints). confirmed. For accurate diagnostics, it is better to use nitrogen at a pressure of 10–15 bar.
4. Working with the compressor: removal, diagnostics, replacement
The compressor is the most expensive element of the refrigerator, and its replacement costs 30–50% of the cost of the new unit (For example, Copeland Scroll or Danfoss Maneurop), perform diagnostics:
- Check the winding resistance with a multimeter (norm: 5–30 Ohms).
- Make sure that the compressor shaft rotates freely (without jamming).
- Listen to the compressor for extraneous noise (knocking, grinding).
To dismantle the compressor:
- Unsolder the suction and discharge tubes (use
burner with gearboxto avoid overheating the oil). - Disconnect the starting relay and capacitor.
- Remove the compressor from the shock mounts (usually 3-4 bolts).
Critical moment: when installing a new compressor be sure to replace the filter drier and flush the system with nitrogen. Otherwise, residual moisture and dirt can damage the new unit.
| Symptom of compressor malfunction | Possible cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor does not start | The starting relay is faulty | Replacing the relay or capacitor |
| Thermal protection is triggered | Overheating due to lack of oil | Add oil or replace the compressor |
| Knocking during operation | Wear of bearings or valves | Major repairs or replacement |
| Low pressure discharge | Freon leak or clogged capillary tube | Looking for leaks or cleaning the system |
5. Disassembling the automation and electronics system
Modern industrial refrigerators are equipped with complex control systems (for example, controllers Carel pCO or Eliwell). When disassembling electronics, follow these rules:
- 📱 Take photographs of all connections before disconnecting the wires.
- 🔌 Use markers to identify connectors.
- 🛠️ To dismantle the boards, use plastic spatulas to avoid damage tracks.
Typical automation elements that you will have to work with:
- 🌡️ Temperature sensors (usually NTC 10k)
- 🔄 Pressure switches (for example, Danfoss KP)
- ⏳ Defrost timers
- 📶 Remote control modules (in models with IoT)
Beware of static electricity —it can damage sensitive microcircuits. When working with boards, use an antistatic wrist strap or regularly touch grounded metal surfaces.
⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator is equipped with a system Eutectic (cold accumulation), disassembling the electronic unit requires special knowledge. Incorrect connection can lead to loss of calibration data and the need for complete reconfiguration.
6. Typical errors and how to avoid them.
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when disassembling industrial refrigerators. Here are the most common ones:
1. Ignoring the residual pressure in the system
Many people forget that even after shutdown, freon can remain in the pipes under a pressure of up to 5 bar. Consequences: when unsoldering the pipes, the refrigerant suddenly escapes, which can lead to frostbite of the skin or damage to the eyes.
2. Using inappropriate tools
For example, trying to unscrew brass fittings with an open-end wrench instead of a spanner often ends with “licking” of the edges. Solution: use special keys for refrigeration equipment with soft sponges.
3. tubes
A common mistake is overheating of tubes during soldering, which leads to the formation of scale inside. How to avoid:
- Use low temperature solder (for example, Castolin 190).
- Heat the tube evenly, avoiding local overheating.
- After soldering, flush the system with nitrogen to remove oxides.
4. Neglecting to replace consumables
Many save on replacing filter drier, O-rings or oil data-i="225">Before assembling the refrigerator, be sure to vacuum the system (for at least 30 minutes) to remove moisture. Without this, the new compressor will last for a maximum of a year.. This leads to repeated breakdowns within 3-6 months.
7. Assembly and inspection after disassembly
Assembling the refrigerator should be done in the reverse order, but taking into account several critical points:
- Evacuating the system: connect the vacuum pump and pump out the air to pressure
-0.9 bar(hold for at least 30 minutes). - Freon charging: use only the type of refrigerant specified in passport. For example, R-404A cannot be used R-134a - this will lead to compressor failure.
- Checking the tightness: after refilling, check the system with a soap solution or an electronic leak detector.
- Calibrating the automation: if the controller was replaced, configure the parameters (temperature ranges, defrosting time, etc.).
After assembly, turn on the refrigerator in test mode and observe its operation for 2–3 hours. Pay attention to:
- 🌡️ Speed of temperature rise (must correspond to the passport data).
- 🔊 Noise level (extraneous sounds may indicate a compressor malfunction).
- ❄️ Uniformity of cooling (check the temperature in different zones).
⚠️ Attention: If, after charging freon, the compressor runs without stopping, but the temperature does not drop, it is possible clogging capillary tube or lack of refrigerantDo not ignore this symptom!
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about disassembling industrial refrigerators
Is it possible to disassemble a refrigerator without draining the freon?
No, this is extremely dangerous! rupture of tubes during unsoldering. In addition, freon under pressure can cause frostbite of the skin and mucous membranes. Exception: if the refrigerator has not been in operation for more than 5 years and the pressure in the system is equal to atmospheric pressure (checked with a pressure gauge).
What freon is used in industrial refrigerators 2020–2026 years?
Modern models most often use:
- R-404A (for low-temperature chambers up to -40°C)
- R-134a (for medium-temperature cabinets)
- R-448A and R-449A (eco-friendly substitutes for R-404A)
- R-290 (propane, used in some European models)
The exact type of refrigerant is indicated on the compressor nameplate or in the device passport.
What to do if rusty tubes are found during disassembly?
Corrosion on copper or steel tubes is a serious problem. Actions:
- If the rust is superficial, clean the area with sandpaper and cover with special paint for refrigeration equipment.
- If the tube is rusted through, replace the area a new piece (use soldering with silver solder).
- Check the cause of corrosion: it may be due to a freon leak or high humidity in the room.
Important: if corrosion is found on an aluminum evaporator, it will have to be replaced completely - repair in this case is impossible.
Is it necessary to change the oil in the compressor during disassembly?
Yes, if:
- The compressor was disassembled for repair.
- Moisture or dirt got into the system.
- The oil has turned black or has a burning smell.
To change the oil:
- Drain the old oil through the drain pipe.
- Rinse the compressor crankcase with a special solvent.
- Fill in new oil (type indicated in the compressor passport).
The oil volume for industrial compressors is usually 1–3 liters (the exact volume is indicated in the documentation).
Is it possible to replace the compressor yourself if you have no experience?
Theoretically, yes, but The risk is very high. Errors when replacing a compressor can lead to:
- Damage to the new compressor due to moisture or dirt.
- Leakage of freon and the need for refilling.
- Short short circuit due to incorrect connection of electronics.
Recommendation: if you do not have experience working with refrigeration equipment, it is better to invite a specialist or at least consult with him at the assembly stage. The cost of an error (new compressor + refilling) may exceed the cost of calling a specialist.