How to disassemble a refrigerator relay: a complete guide

The modern refrigerator has ceased to be a luxury and has turned into a vital appliance, the failure of which becomes a real household disaster. When the compressor hums but does not start, or, conversely, clicks and goes silent, most often the culprit is starting relay. This small device is responsible for supplying voltage to the motor windings at the time of start, and its breakdown completely paralyzes the operation of the entire cooling system.

Many owners of household appliances Indesit, Beko or Atlant immediately call a technician, not suspecting that in some cases there is a problem You can solve it yourself in 20-30 minutes. Disassembling and checking this unit does not require in-depth knowledge of electrical engineering or specialized equipment; a basic set of tools and an understanding of the operating principle of the device is sufficient. In this article, we will look in detail at how to safely remove the relay, diagnose its condition and decide on further actions.

Before taking active steps, you must clearly understand the risks and follow safety precautions, since we are talking about working with electric current. Any manipulations with the electrical components of the refrigerator are permissible only after completely disconnecting the device from the power supply. Ignoring this rule can lead to electric shock or failure of expensive electronics controls.

Fault diagnosis and signs of breakdown

The first stage of any repair is correct diagnosis, which allows you to weed out false breakdowns and focus on the real problem. If you hear a distinctive click followed by a hum from the compressor, followed by another click and silence a few seconds later, this is a classic symptom of a faulty starter. The engine tries to start, receives an impulse, but without successful acceleration of the rotor, the thermal relay opens the circuit, protecting the windings from burnout.

There are several indirect signs indicating that it is time to disassemble the refrigerator relay:

• 🔊 The compressor makes a loud click, but does not start, or starts only a fraction seconds.
• 🔥 The compressor housing heats up much more than usual, although the refrigerator does not cool.
• 💡 During operation, a crackling or buzzing sound is heard, which was not observed before, which may indicate burnt contacts.
• ⚡ Knocks out the circuit breakers in the panel when trying to turn on refrigerator.

It is important to understand the difference between a breakdown of the relay itself and a breakdown of the compressor. If after replacing the relay the situation does not change, perhaps the problem lies in the interturn short circuit of the motor windings or jamming of the piston group. In such cases, simply replacing the starting device will not help, and more serious repairs or replacement of the unit will be required.

Necessary tools and safety measures

High-quality preparation of the workplace and the availability of the right tools is the key to successful repairs and the absence of additional damage to the body or wiring. To dismantle and check the relay, you do not need a complex professional tool; a standard home craftsman’s kit is sufficient. The main thing is to ensure good lighting of the work area, since the back wall of the refrigerator is often in the shade.

You will need the following items:

• 🔧 Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat) for removing protective covers and terminal blocks.
• 🔌 Multimeter or tester for testing contacts and checking the continuity of the circuit.
• 🧤 Dielectric gloves for protection from residual current and greasy stains.
• 📸 Smartphone or camera for photographing the connection diagram before disassembling.

⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, make sure that capacitors are in the system (if they are in the control circuit) discharged, although in most household models the main danger comes directly from the 220V network.

Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the insulation of the wires suitable for the compressor. If you notice melted areas, cracks or exposed wires, you will need to restore the insulation or replace the terminals before installing a new relay. Using damaged wiring can negate all repair efforts and create a fire hazard.

Access to the compressor and removal of the casing

The process of accessing the start relay is almost identical for most refrigerator models, be it LG, Samsung or Stinol. The compressor is usually located at the lower rear of the unit and is covered with a metal or plastic casing that protects the mechanism from dust and accidental damage. Removing this casing is the first physical step of disassembly.

To begin, move the refrigerator away from the wall, allowing clear access to its rear. If the floor is slippery, place cardboard or cloth under the feet to prevent scratching the surface. Carefully remove the mounting screws holding the protective cover in place. In some models, such as old ZIL or Minsk, the cover may be held on by latches that require careful bending with a flat-head screwdriver.

After removing the cover, a view will open in front of you on the compressor there is a black metal “tank” with copper tubes and an electrical cable suitable for it. The relay is attached directly to the side of the compressor and is covered with a small plastic box. It is this box that has to be removed to get to the insides.

A typical relay mounting design looks like this:

What to do if the casing is rusty?

If the mounting screws or bracket are heavily oxidized and cannot be unscrewed, do not use excessive force, so as not to strip the threads or break the plastic housing of the relay. Treat the connection with a penetrating lubricant (eg WD-40), wait 5-10 minutes, and only then try to unscrew it. In extreme cases, you can carefully cut the old bracket with side cutters, replacing it with a new one during assembly.

The process of dismantling the starting relay

Removing the relay itself from the compressor requires care, since the contacts may be stuck or oxidized. Before pulling the device, carefully inspect the way it is secured. Most often, the relay is simply put on the three pins of the compressor and secured with a frame or bracket. However, in some models Electrolux or Ariston there may be additional fixation with wires or terminals.

Procedure for dismantling:

1. Take a photo of the location of the wires going to the relay so as not to confuse it during assembly contacts.
2. If there is a terminal block, carefully disconnect it, holding the base.
3. Remove the retaining bracket or frame holding the relay in place.
4. Grip the relay by the body (not the wires!) and with light rocking movements from side to side, remove it from compressor pins.

Important: Do not pull the relay sharply upward or sideways if it does not work. There may be thermal protection inside, which sometimes sticks, or ice gets in the way (if the refrigerator has not been defrosted for a long time). Shake the relay: if you hear the sound of broken glass or loose parts inside, then the device is definitely faulty and requires replacement.

After removing the device, inspect the seat on the compressor. There should be no traces of burning, melted plastic or moisture. If you find black traces of carbon deposits on the compressor contacts, they must be cleaned with fine sandpaper before installing a new relay.

Visual inspection and check with a multimeter

The disassembled relay must be carefully checked to understand whether it can be restored or requires replacement. An external inspection often provides 50% of the information: if the plastic is blackened, melted or cracked, the device is definitely faulty. Inside the case you will see a coil, contacts and, in thermal relays, a bimetallic plate.

For more accurate diagnostics, use a multimeter switched to continuity or resistance measurement mode:

• 📉 Check the starting relay coil: the resistance should be within normal limits (usually 30-100 Ohms, depending on the model). If the device shows infinity - an open circuit, if zero - a short circuit.
• 🔌 Check the thermal relay: in a cold state the circuit should ring (resistance is close to zero). When heated (you can gently heat it with a hairdryer), the circuit should open.
• 🔄 Check the moving contacts: they should move freely and close the circuit at a certain position of the relay (orientation is important!).

In induction (posistor) relays, the posistor itself often fails - a ceramic element that changes resistance when heating Visually it may look intact, but not perform its function. If you are not able to test it with a multimeter with a capacitance or ESR measurement function, it is easier and more reliable to replace the entire relay.

⚠️ Attention: Some types of relays (for example, RT) have a strictly defined installation orientation, indicated by an “UP” or “UP” arrow. Installing such a relay upside down will lead to its inoperability or rapid failure.

Installation of a new relay and final assembly

If diagnostics have confirmed a malfunction, it is necessary to install a new relay. When purchasing, be sure to check the markings of the old device with the new one, since even externally identical relays may have different contact patterns or operating current. There are no universal solutions, although some models are suitable for a wide range of compressors.

Installation process:

1. Place the new relay onto the compressor pins, observing the correct orientation (up arrow).
2. Secure the device with a retaining bracket or frame until click.
3. Connect the wires according to the photograph taken earlier or the diagram on the case.
4. Make sure that all connections are tight and not loose.

After installing all components, return the compressor protective casing to its place and secure it with screws. Only after complete mechanical assembly can the refrigerator be connected to the network. The first start-up may be accompanied by a louder sound than usual, but if the compressor starts and returns to operating mode without constant clicking, the repair was successful.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to repair an old relay if it is burnt out?

In most cases, repairing a burnt-out relay is not economically feasible and technically difficult. If the coil burns out or the contacts melt, it is easier and more reliable to buy a new unit. Attempts to clean the contacts or rewind the coil give a temporary effect and can lead to breakdown of the compressor.

Why does the new relay click, but the refrigerator does not turn on?

This may indicate several problems: incorrect installation of the relay (inverted), a malfunction of the compressor itself (jammed or broken windings) or a problem in the control circuit (thermostat, control module). It is also possible that the new relay is defective.

How often do you need to change the starting relay?

The starting relay does not have a scheduled replacement period and serves until it breaks. On average, a high-quality relay lasts 5-10 years, but frequent power surges in the network can shorten this period. Preventative replacement is not required.

What is the difference between a posistor and thermal relay?

A thermal relay uses a bimetallic plate that opens the circuit when heated, and a posistor operates based on a change in the resistance of a ceramic element when current passes. They are not always interchangeable, so it is important to select an analogue with the same characteristics.