Dismantling failure of refrigeration equipment is a process that requires not only physical strength, but also strict adherence to safety regulations. Old refrigerator contains components that may be hazardous to health if not handled correctly, in particular refrigerants and insulating materials. Before you begin, you need to realize that the purpose of disassembly may be to prepare the unit for disposal or extraction of valuable non-ferrous metals.
The first step is always de-energizing devices. You can't just unplug the cord if the compressor has just been running - let the system cool and the refrigerant return to the condenser. It is also critically important to free the internal space from products, shelves and removable drawers in order to lighten the design and not damage fragile elements in the process.
In this article we will look at the dismantling stages in detail, paying special attention to working with compressor and the radiator grille. You will learn what tools are needed for effective disassembly and how to avoid injuries from sharp edges or falling heavy components.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
To successfully complete the task of disassembling the refrigerator, you need to prepare the space in advance. The ideal option would be a garage, a courtyard of a private house, or a well-ventilated room with a concrete floor. Working in a residential apartment is not recommended due to the possible contamination of the space with small debris and the specific smell from old seals.
A basic set of tools should include several types of screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-head), pliers, side cutters and, preferably, a screwdriver. To work with metal elements of the body, you may need a hacksaw or an angle grinder if you plan to speed up the cutting process.
Pay special attention to personal protective equipment. Gloves with a rubberized coating will protect your hands from cuts on the sharp edges of the metal, and a respirator will protect the respiratory tract from dust and possible leakage of residual gases.
- 🛠️ Set of screwdrivers and wrenches for dismantling fasteners.
- 🔪 Construction knife for cutting insulation and seals.
- 🧤 Thick work gloves and protective glasses.
- 🔨 Hammer and chisel for knocking out rivets or complex joints.
⚠️ Attention: Make sure that the floor at the work site is level and stable. A fall of a heavy compressor or door can lead to serious leg injuries.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
Dismantling the door and internal filling
It is advisable to start disassembling the case with doors, since it is the most bulky removable element that interferes with access to the insides. Modern models often have hidden hinges that require careful handling. First, remove the decorative plugs, then unscrew the mounting bolts.
After removing the door, take care of the interior space. Remove all shelves, vegetable drawers and metal grills. Plastic elements, such as egg trays or bottle holders, are often attached with snaps - they should be snapped off carefully so as not to break if you plan to reuse them.
If there is a system inside No Frostthe plastic panels covering the evaporator must be removed. They are usually attached with self-tapping screws or plastic clips. By removing the panels, you will gain access to the heating elements and the fan, which also need to be removed.
| Element | Mounting type | Tool | Complexity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Door | Hinges with bolts | Open-end wrench | High |
| Shelves | Guides | Without tools | Low |
| No Frost Panel | Screws/Clips | Screwdriver | Medium |
| Thermoregulator | Nut/Latch | Pliers | Medium |
Removal and Disposal compressor
The most valuable and heaviest unit is compressor. It is located at the lower rear of the unit. Make sure the device is completely cool before starting work. The compressor is attached to the frame with four legs, often through rubber shock absorbers, which harden over time and require careful removal.
The tubes coming from the compressor (copper coil and steel discharge pipe) are usually sealed. To separate them, it is best to use a pipe cutter or a hacksaw. The use of open fire for annealing tubes is strictly prohibited, since the system may be freon under pressure, as well as oil residues, which creates a risk of fire or explosion.
After disconnecting the tubes, the compressor can be removed. Inside it there is a winding made of copper, which is of the greatest value when sold for scrap. Some craftsmen open the compressor housing (with a grinder) to remove the copper wire, but this is a labor-intensive process that requires additional safety measures.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to drill or cut through the compressor tubes without first releasing the pressure. Residual gas can escape under pressure.
What to do with the oil from the compressor?
There is technical oil inside the compressor. When the housing is opened, it may leak. Collect it in a sealed container and take it to a waste oil collection point without pouring it down the drain or onto the ground.
Removing the radiator grille and pipelines
The rear wall of the refrigerator is occupied by the radiator grille - the condenser. In older models it is made of steel tubes painted with black enamel; in newer or more expensive models it can be found aluminum or copper. Separating the grille is the most labor-intensive step, since it is often welded to the rear panel of the housing.
To remove the grille in a garage, they often use a sledgehammer or a powerful hammer, simply knocking out the tubes from their mounting points. However, if your goal is to preserve the integrity of the metal for subsequent sorting, it is better to carefully saw off the fastening points with a hacksaw or use a grinder with a metal disc.
Pipelines running inside the cabinet (in the foamed layer) are usually not completely removed, as this requires destruction of the housing. They are cut in accessible places. Aluminum evaporators in the freezers of old refrigerators ("crying" type) are often frozen to the wall and require careful prying out with a spatula.
- 🔩 Steel condenser tubes have a lower cost than non-ferrous metals.
- 🌡️ Aluminum evaporator plates are easy bend, be careful.
- ✂️ Copper capillary tubes are very thin and can be easily damaged.
Working with insulation and housing
Between the outer metal casing and the inner plastic chamber there is a layer thermal insulation. In older refrigerators this may be glass wool, in more modern refrigerators it may be polyurethane foam. When disassembling the case, this material often has to be removed.
The glass wool used in Soviet technology is extremely dangerous for the respiratory tract and skin. Microscopic fibers cause severe irritation. Therefore, the presence of a respirator and closed clothing with long sleeves when working with old-style insulation is a mandatory requirement.
If you plan to recycle the metal case, it is often flattened or cut into pieces for ease of transportation. The internal plastic liner is usually of no value and is sent to waste, unless it is a specific engineering plastic.
⚠️ Attention: Polyurethane foam releases toxic substances when burned. Never use a thermal cutter (gas burner) to remove foam indoors.
Sorting and disposal of waste
After disassembly is completed, you will be left with heaps of different materials. The correct one sorting will not only help you make money selling scrap metal, but will also save the environment. Ferrous metals (housing, steel tubes) are delivered separately from non-ferrous metals (copper, aluminum, brass).
Plastic can also be sorted. Polystyrene (inner chamber) and ABS plastic (doors, drawers) often have different markings. Clean plastic is more readily accepted, so remove any remaining adhesive, metal, or insulation from it.
Electrical components such as wiring, thermostats, and start relays contain precious metals and copper in small quantities. It is advisable to collect them in a separate container for further processing or sale to electronics buyers.
Where should freon go?
Freon from old systems (R12) destroys the ozone layer. It is impossible to pump it out safely at home. During professional disposal, gas is burned in flares or disposed of in special installations.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to disassemble a refrigerator without special tools?
Basic disassembly (door, shelves, compressor) can be performed using a minimal set: screwdrivers, pliers and hammer. However, to effectively separate the radiator grille and cut the metal, you will need a hacksaw or a grinder.
Is freon dangerous in an old refrigerator?
In a working but non-working refrigerator, freon is in a closed circuit and is not dangerous. The danger arises when the tightness of the tubes is broken in a closed room, since the gas is heavier than air and can displace oxygen, as well as when an open flame comes into contact with freon vapor (phosgene is formed).
Is it worth disassembling the refrigerator for the sake of copper?
There is little copper in modern refrigerators (mainly in the compressor and thin tubes). The main mass is steel and aluminum. Disassembly makes sense if you rent out large amounts of equipment or want to gain experience. One unit will not bring much income.
What to do with glass wool from an old refrigerator?
Fiberglass insulation must be carefully collected in a thick plastic bag so that the fibers do not fly apart, and taken to special landfills for construction waste. It is prohibited to shake it into the garbage disposal or a regular container.