Dismantling of display refrigeration equipment is not just a mechanical removal of panels, but a complex technical process that requires an understanding of the structure of the unit. Display refrigerators are used in supermarkets and stores to display products, and their regular maintenance is critical to maintaining the presentation and safety of products. Often, owners are faced with the need for deep cleaning, replacement of seals or repair evaporatorwhich is impossible without partial or complete disassembly.
Before starting any work, you must clearly understand the risks associated with electricity and refrigerants. Incorrect actions can lead to damage refrigeration circuit or a leak in the system. In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will allow you to safely dismantle the main components of the equipment.
It is worth noting that the design may differ significantly depending on the manufacturer and model, be it Polair, Carboma or North. However, the general principles of assemblies remain similar, which allows us to develop a universal approach to solving the problem. Your main goal is to maintain the integrity of the thermal insulation and not damage the electronic components.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
The success of the disassembly operation depends 80% on proper preparation. You will need not only physical space, but also a specific set of tools that will avoid damage to fasteners and plastic. Tool set Must be on hand so as not to interrupt the process of finding the right screwdriver.
Be sure to make sure that the equipment is disconnected from the power supply at least an hour before starting work. This is necessary in order for the capacitors to discharge and the temperature of the components to stabilize. Working with electrical components under voltage is strictly prohibited by safety rules.
To carry out high-quality dismantling you will need:
- 🔧 A set of screwdrivers (phillips and flathead screwdrivers of various sizes)
- 🔩 Screwdriver with magnetic attachment
- 🧤 Protective gloves (to avoid cutting yourself on sharp metal edges)
- 💡 Powerful flashlight or portable lamp
- 📦 Containers for sorting fasteners
⚠️ Attention: Use only magnetic containers or organizers with slots for screws. The loss of even one small screw during assembly can lead to vibration of the case or the inability to install the panel back.
Pay special attention to the condition of the tool. Licked tips screwdrivers can tear off the slots on the screws, which will turn simple disassembly into a multi-hour problem. If the screws are covered with varnish or rust, pre-treat them with penetrating lubricant.
☑️ Ready for disassembly
Primary dismantling: removing shelves and glass elements
The first step is always to empty the internal volume of the display case. Glass shelves and guides are fragile elements that require careful handling. Do not try to remove them by force if you feel resistance - the locking mechanism may be jammed.
First remove all removable shelves and lattice trays. In most models, they are simply removed by moving upwards or towards you. If the shelves are installed on guide profiles, they must be carefully lifted and removed from the grooves.
Then proceed to dismantling the glass sides and windshield, if the design requires this. Often the glass is fixed in special clamps or holders. Act smoothly so as not to break tempered glass, the fragments of which can cause injury.
After removing all internal elements, inspect the bottom of the display case. There may be additional fasteners or sensors that also need to be released. Only after the inner chamber is completely empty can you begin to remove the outer casing.
Dismantling the outer casing and access to the insides
Removing the outer casing is a key point that allows access to aggregate compartment and the air circulation system. Fastening elements are usually located around the perimeter of the case, in the corners and under decorative plugs. Carefully inspect the surface for hidden screws.
Use a slotted screwdriver to carefully pry up the plastic plugs hiding the screws. Be careful not to break the plastic clips. After unscrewing all visible screws, the case may not be removed immediately due to hidden latches.
Main types of case fastenings:
- 🔩 Visible screws around the perimeter of the frame
- 🔘 Hidden screws under decorative stickers or plugs
- 🖱 Plastic latches (require careful release)
If the case cannot be removed, do not pull it sharply. Walk around the perimeter again, checking for forgotten fasteners. Often the lower part of the casing is held on by additional screws, which can only be accessed after removing front panel or the grille.
⚠️ Attention: When removing metal panels, be careful of the sharp edges of the sheet metal. They can be very sharp after factory cutting, so the use of gloves at this stage is mandatory.
Disassembling the ventilation system and evaporator
When you get to the internal “filling”, you will be faced with the ventilation system. It is this that ensures uniform distribution of cold. Display cases can be equipped with static cooling or a system No Frost with forced circulation.
To access the evaporator, it is often necessary to remove the back wall inside the display case or dismantle the ventilation duct. The fan is usually mounted on rubber vibration dampers and a metal bracket. Disconnect the fan power connector, first remembering the polarity or photographing the connection.
Itself evaporator is a coil with aluminum plates. When dismantling or cleaning it, it is important not to damage the tubes. Aluminum is soft, and any mechanical impact can lead to refrigerant leakage.
What to do if the evaporator is covered in ice?
If you find that the evaporator is completely covered with ice (“fur coat”), do not try to break off the ice with a knife or screwdriver This is guaranteed to lead to a breakdown of the tube. Defrost the unit naturally or use a fan heater at a safe distance.
When cleaning the drainage system, which often comes with the evaporator, use a soft brush. A clogged drain is a common cause of water appearing on store floors. Make sure that the drain hole is free of dirt and mold.
Electrical circuit and maintenance of the controller
The electronic control unit is the “brain” of the refrigerator. It regulates the operation of the compressor, fans and defrost. Access to it is usually located in the component compartment, often hidden by an additional protective cover.
Before touching any contacts, ensure that sufficient time has passed since the power has been turned off. Capacitors on the board can store charge. Visually inspect the board for swollen capacitors, traces of burning or oxidation of contacts.
Typical controls:
- 🎛 Temperature controller (thermostat)
- ⏱ Defrost time relay (if any)
- 🌡 Temperature sensors (NTC)
- 🔌 Network connection terminal block
If you need to replace the controller, carefully rewrite the wiring diagram or take a high-quality photo before disconnecting. An error in connecting phase and zero or sensors can cause new equipment to fail instantly.
| Component | Function | Check frequency | Symptoms of malfunction |
|---|---|---|---|
| Controller | Cycle management | Once every 6 months | Incorrect temperature |
| T sensor | Cold measurement | Once a year | Frequent switching on |
| Fan | Air circulation | Once every 3 months | Noise, no cold |
| Defrost heating element | Removal ice | Once a year | Ice buildup |
When servicing the electrical part, use only original spare parts or their full analogues. Cheap Chinese controllers often have errors in calibration, which leads to freezing of products or, conversely, to their damage.
Assembly and initial startup of equipment
The assembly process is a mirror image of disassembly, but requires increased care. The main task is not to leave unnecessary parts and to ensure the tightness of all connections. Thermal insulation It should fit tightly to the body without forming cold bridges.
When installing the panels back, make sure that the wires are not pinched between the metal and the body. Frayed insulation can lead to a short circuit and fire. All wiring harnesses must be laid in the provided channels or secured with ties.
After complete assembly, do not rush to load the products. Turn on the empty refrigerator and let it run in idle mode for 2-4 hours. This will allow the system to enter operating mode, and you will be able to make sure that there are no leaks, extraneous noise and that the automation is operating correctly.
Check the tightness of the door seals. If after disassembly the door does not close tightly, the body may have been misaligned during assembly. Adjust the legs or check the installation of the hinges.
Is it possible to disassemble the refrigerator without draining the freon?
Yes, if you do not touch the sealed circuit (compressor tubes, condenser, evaporator). Disassembling the case, removing fans and electrics do not require violating the integrity of the cooling system.
What to do if the evaporator tube is damaged during disassembly?
Immediately ventilate the room. If you hear a hissing sound, it means freon is coming out. It is difficult to solder aluminum tubes on your own; you need to call a specialist with equipment for vacuuming and filling.
How often do you need to carry out complete disassembly for cleaning?
For catering stores and grocery outlets, complete sanitization with partial disassembly is recommended at least once a quarter, according to SanPiN standards.
Do you need to change the seals every time you disassemble?
No, if they are elastic and do not have cracks. However, with frequent disassembly, the risk of damage increases, so have a spare set in case the old one becomes unusable during the work.