Modern refrigerators are equipped with a complex internal filling system, where plastic containers play a key role in organizing space. Over time, an ice crust forms on the walls of the containers, foreign odors or dirt appear that cannot be removed while the box is assembled. Owners are often faced with a dilemma: how to remove freezer compartmentwithout damaging the fragile plastic latches and guides?
Improper dismantling can lead to breakage of the fasteners, after which the drawer will no longer close tightly, violating the seal of the chamber. This, in turn, causes freezing of the walls and increased energy consumption. In this article, we will analyze in detail the mechanics of fastening various models of containers and explain how to safely carry out deep cleaning the internal space.
Before taking active steps, you must completely defrost the unit. Attempts to remove frozen plastic by force are guaranteed to lead to cracks, since polymers become brittle at low temperatures. Full defrosting This is not just a recommendation, but a prerequisite for maintaining the integrity of the structure of your refrigerator.
Preparation for dismantling and safety measures
The start of work should always involve a power outage. This is a basic electrical safety rule that cannot be ignored, even if you only plan to wash plastic parts. While the compressor is running, a low temperature is maintained inside the chambers, making the plastic brittle.
You will need to prepare a work area. It is best to carry out manipulations on a wide table covered with a soft towel so that the fallen part does not get damaged. Also stock up on the tools you may need: a hair dryer for warming the ice, a flathead screwdriver with a wide blade for prying up the latches, and a container for collecting melt water.
⚠️ Attention: Never use sharp metal objects (knives, chisels) to pick out the ice around the box. You may accidentally puncture the evaporator or damage the cooling circuit, which will lead to expensive repairs.
Pay special attention to the model of your refrigerator. Designs from different manufacturers, such as Indesit, Atlant or LG, may have fundamentally different fastening systems. Studying the manual or searching for information on a specific series will help you avoid fatal mistakes when pressing the latches.
Types of fastenings for freezer boxes
Understanding how exactly the container is held is the key to successful dismantling. Manufacturers use several main types of fixation, and each has its own algorithm of actions. The most common are guide rails, side latches and a tongue-and-groove system.
Option c guide runners assumes that the box simply slides out along rails attached to the walls of the chamber. Here the difficulty can only be caused by ice, which glues the plastic to the metal. In such cases, it is enough to carefully warm the joints with a hairdryer.
More complex systems include side clamps. They are often located at the top of the drawer sides or on the end walls. To remove such a module, you need to simultaneously press two symmetrical protrusions and pull the container towards you. Sometimes it is necessary to lift the front part of the container at an angle of 15-20 degrees.
- 🔹 Guide slides - require minimal effort, often simply roll out.
- 🔹 Upper latches - need to press from above and pull forward.
- 🔹 Side latches - require simultaneous pressing on both sides.
- 🔹 Hidden grooves - found in premium models, require precise positioning.
In some models, the drawers may be composite. The upper part (lid) can be removed separately from the lower bowl. This is done for ease of washing, since washing the one-piece structure under the tap is inconvenient due to its dimensions.
Step-by-step instructions: how to remove the box
The dismantling process should be performed sequentially so as not to lose small parts or break the plastic. First, clear some space around the target container. Remove foods above and below, and remove the glass shelf if it blocks access to the top end of the drawer.
If you find ice, do not try to pull the drawer. Use a hairdryer in warm (not hot!) air mode and warm up the perimeter for 2-3 minutes. The ice should begin to melt, and the movement of the mechanism will become free. Sudden changes in temperature can cause microcracks in the plastic.
⚠️ Attention: Make sure that the water supply hose (if your ice machine model has one) is not connected to the part being removed. In rare cases, elements of the No Frost system can be integrated into the design of the shelves.
Now we move on to the extraction itself. Grasp the front panel of the drawer (handle) with both hands. Smoothly but confidently pull towards you until it stops. If resistance is felt, swing the box left and right with an amplitude of no more than 1-2 cm. This will help move beyond the fixing protrusions.
☑️ Checklist before removing the box
After the drawer is removed, inspect the inside of the chamber. There may have been pieces of ice or food that fell during removal. Wipe the bottom of the chamber with a dry cloth before putting the clean box back.
Dismantling the component parts of the container
Many users do not know that the plastic box itself often consists of two or three parts. The main body, bottom and sometimes the inner divider insert can be removable. This is especially true for models with the No Frost system, where air circulation is important.
To separate the parts, turn the box upside down. Inspect the perimeter of the connection between the top and bottom parts. Usually there are small plastic tabs located there. They need to be carefully bent with a screwdriver or a fingernail, while simultaneously pushing the halves apart in different directions.
Do not use excessive force. If the pieces don't come apart, you haven't found all the fasteners. In some designs the top cover is simply put on the lower part and is held in place by friction and the shape of the walls. In this case, it is enough to pry the edge in several places around the perimeter.
| Type of connection | Location of clamps | Tool for opening | Force |
|---|---|---|---|
| Snap | On the sides, 4-6 points | Flat screwdriver | Medium |
| Hinged | Absent (friction) | Hands/Fabric | Minimal |
| Composite (bottom) | Inside, under the side | Nails/Plastic | High |
| Monolith | No | Cannot be disassembled | - |
By disassembling the box into its components, you can thoroughly rinse all the corners and joints where mold and bacteria usually accumulate. Using a bottle brush will help clean hard-to-reach places in the corners of the components.
Cleaning and eliminating odors
After successful dismantling, the cleaning stage begins. The plastic from which refrigerator drawers are made (usually polystyrene or ABS plastic) is sensitive to aggressive chemicals. Acetonechlorine-containing solvents or abrasive powders can make the surface dull, rough, or even dissolve the top layer.
Better Just use a warm soapy solution or special dishwashing detergent. A solution of baking soda or vinegar is excellent for removing persistent odors (fish, onions, spoiled meat). Soak the parts for 30-40 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
It is important to completely dry all parts before assembly. Remaining moisture in the joints of the components can quickly turn into ice when the refrigerator is turned on, again making it difficult to open. Wipe the box dry and leave it in the air until the moisture has completely evaporated.
If there are yellow spots on the plastic from old products, use hydrogen peroxide. Apply it to a cotton pad and apply it to the stain for a while. However peroxide is effective only for surface contaminants and will not remove pigment if it has been absorbed deeply into the structure of the plastic..
Assembly and installation back
Assembly is performed in the reverse order. First, connect the components of the box until you hear a characteristic click. Make sure all latches are closed tightly and there are no visible gaps anywhere. A box that is not tightly closed may become deformed during operation.
When installing it in the fridge compartment, pay attention to the direction of movement. The box should fit into the grooves freely, without distortion. If you feel resistance, don't push. Take it out, check the position of the guides and try again, slightly changing the angle.
- 🔸 Check that the drawer does not touch the back wall of the chamber where the evaporator is located.
- 🔸 Make sure that the drawer handle does not touch the door when closing.
- 🔸 All The wheels or runners must be level on their tracks.
After installation, check for ease of movement. The box should move out and in smoothly, without jerking. If the movement is tight, perhaps you have not connected the guides correctly or a speck has gotten into the grooves.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
One of the most common mistakes is the use of force where ingenuity is needed. The plastic of refrigerator boxes is designed to withstand certain loads, but not impact. A sharp jerk often leads to the front panel or side ears breaking off.
Another mistake is ignoring defrosting. Trying to pull out a frozen box by force leads to cracks. Even if the box is visually intact, microscopic stresses can form in the plastic, which will appear after a month of use.
⚠️ Attention: If you do break the fastener, do not try to glue it with regular superglue. Cyanoacrylate vapors are toxic and are not intended for food contact at low temperatures. It is better to order a new part.
Also, users often forget about seals. Some models have rubber gaskets between the box and the camera body. When washing, they can be accidentally lost or torn. Be careful when removing and inspecting the insides.
When a box needs to be replaced
Sometimes disassembling and washing do not help. If the plastic turns yellow, crumbles, or has deep cracks through which the cold escapes, the part must be replaced. Operating a damaged box leads to overload of the compressor.
It is better to purchase new boxes from authorized dealers or specialized spare parts stores, indicating the exact model of the refrigerator. There are no universal solutions here, since everyone’s geometry is different.
Where to find the refrigerator model?
The model is usually indicated on a sticker inside the chamber (on the side wall or ceiling) or on the back wall of the case. Look for a code like RF-50... or similar.
Timely replacement of a damaged element will extend the life of the entire unit. Remember that the tightness of the chambers is the basis for the effective operation of any refrigeration equipment.
Can drawers be washed in the dishwasher?
Manufacturers most often do not recommend washing plastic refrigerator drawers in the dishwasher. The water temperature there can reach 70 degrees or higher, which leads to deformation of thin plastic. In addition, aggressive detergents can change the color or structure of the material. It is better to use hand washing with warm water.
What to do if the box is frozen tightly?
If the box does not move, it means it is firmly frozen. Take a hair dryer and direct a stream of warm air at the joint between the box and the camera body. Heat around the perimeter for 5-10 minutes. Do not use boiling water, as sudden changes in temperature may crack the plastic. After the ice thaws, the box should be free.
How to remove yellowness from white plastic?
Yellowness is the result of oxidation of plastic and exposure to fats. Try making a paste of baking soda and water, apply to the surface and leave for an hour. Special cleaners for car interior plastics have also proven themselves to be effective. Chlorine bleaches should not be used - they can make the plastic even more brittle.
How often should you wash refrigerator drawers?
The recommended frequency of general cleaning with disassembling the drawers is once every 3-6 months. However, if you spill liquid or spill food, clean it up immediately. Regular care prevents the appearance of mold and unpleasant odors, which are then very difficult to remove.