Changing the layout of the kitchen or buying new furniture often poses a difficult task for owners of household appliances: how to change the opening direction of the refrigerator. This procedure, known as rehanging the door, allows you to adapt the device to a specific space, providing convenient access to products. Many users are afraid to start working on their own for fear of damaging the fragile plastic or breaking the seal, but with basic tools and care, the process is quite doable at home.
It is important to understand that the design of modern units, whether budget Indesit or premium Bosch, suggests the possibility of modification, but approaches may vary significantly. In some models, it is enough to simply rearrange the hinges, in others, complete disassembly of the fittings and relocation of the holes is required. Before starting work, make sure that your model has a factory option for re-hanging, since for some monoblock systems this is technically impossible. Ignoring this fact can lead to damage to the case.
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions, the necessary tools and specific nuances for different manufacturers. You will learn how to properly dismantle old fasteners, move handles and adjust the tightness of the seal. Properly done work will not only improve the ergonomics of the kitchen, but will also extend the service life of the sealing rubber, which, if constantly misaligned, quickly fails.
Preparation of the workplace and the necessary tools
Before taking active steps, it is necessary to free up the space around the refrigerator. You will need access to the device from all sides, including the top and bottom where the main mounting hardware is typically located. Move the unit at least a meter away from the wall so that you can freely walk around it and place the removed parts on a clean surface.
Particular attention should be paid to preparing the tools. The set of necessary equipment depends on the type of fastener used by the manufacturer. Most often required:
- 🛠️ A set of screwdrivers (phillips and flathead of different sizes) for working with screws of various depths.
- 🔧 Socket wrenches or heads (often sizes 8, 10 mm) for removing the main hinge bolts.
- 🔨 Pliers or pliers for removing locking pins and plugs.
- 🧤 Construction gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal edges.
It would be a good idea to prepare a container for small parts so as not to lose screws during work. It is also recommended to lay a soft blanket or cardboard on the floor, where you will carefully place the removed doors. This will prevent scratches on the enamel and protect the flooring from damage from heavy metal elements.
If your refrigerator is equipped with a system No Frost or has a display on the door, preparation may take longer. In such cases, it is often necessary to disconnect the electrical cables leading to the control module or light bulb. Make sure in advance that you have electrical tape or special clips for marking the wires so that you don’t mix up the contacts during assembly.
Removing the upper and lower hinges: step-by-step algorithm
The process of removing the door always begins with the upper hinge, since it is this that holds the main weight of the structure. First you need to remove the decorative plug, which usually hides the mounting bolts. Carefully pry it out with a flathead screwdriver, being careful not to scratch the plastic, and set it aside. Next, loosen, but do not completely unscrew the upper mounting bolts yet.
After that, move on to the lower part. In some models, for example, y LG or Samsung, the lower hinge can be hidden by a plinth or decorative strip. Remove it to gain access to the fasteners. Important: before completely removing the bottom hinge, the door must be supported or held by someone, as it may fall and damage the floor or break itself.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to remove the top hinge while holding the door with only one hand. The weight of the leaf can reach 20-30 kg, and a sharp jerk when unscrewing the last bolt often leads to finger injuries or the door falling on your feet.
After the lower hinge is released, you can finally unscrew the upper bolts and remove the door. Place it on the prepared surface. Now we carry out a similar procedure with the second door if you have a two-chamber refrigerator. Do not forget to remove all the intermediate fasteners that connected the upper and lower chambers.
☑️ Check before removal
Moving fittings and handles to the other side
The most time-consuming part of the work is rearranging the handles and plugs. In most modern models, the handles are symmetrical or consist of two parts that just need to be swapped. However, older models or budget series may require physical relocation of fasteners. To do this, find the technological holes on the opposite side of the case, closed with plastic plugs.
Carefully remove the plugs from the side where the door will open and install them in the vacant spaces. If the holes are covered with metal plates, they need to be removed and rearranged. Sometimes it is necessary to drill holes to install the handle, but in 95% of cases the factory has already provided the necessary perforation. Use an awl or a thin drill to remove any remaining plastic in the blind holes.
When installing the handles, pay attention to the length of the mounting screws. They may differ for the left and right side. If you confuse them, you can damage the internal structure of the door or not completely fix the element. Tighten the screws tightly, but without fanaticism, so as not to strip the threads in the plastic bushings.
Magnetic latches and clamps deserve special attention. If in your model they are located asymmetrically, they also need to be dismantled and installed on the opposite end side of the door. To do this, you may need to remove the inner plastic frame of the door, which is done by unscrewing several screws around the perimeter.
Features of hanging for different brands
Each manufacturer introduces its own design features that affect the complexity and order of work. Understanding the specifics of your brand will help you avoid common mistakes and save time. Below is a table systematizing the key differences in the approaches of popular brands.
| Brand | Key feature | Required tool | Complexity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Indesit / Ariston | Often require removal of the entire front panels | Philipps screwdriver, 10 mm wrench | Medium |
| Bosch / Siemens | Hidden hinges, fine adjustment required | Hexagons, socket head | High |
| Samsung / LG | Presence of electronics in the door (display) | Pliers, electrical tape | High |
| Atlant | Simple design, standard bolts | Open-end wrench 10, 13 mm | Low |
For example, in refrigerators Bosch a system of hidden hinges is often used, where the adjusting screws are located deep inside the case. To work with them, you need a special extended wrench or flexible head. At the same time, the equipment Atlant is famous for its maintainability and simplicity: all fastenings are standard and easily accessible.
The situation is most difficult with models that have a freshness zone or a display on the door. In cases such as the Samsung series Side-by-Side, wires pass through the loop. They must be carefully disconnected, remember the color markings and pulled through new holes in the door body. Wire cables very thin and easily break if handled carelessly.
What to do if the cable length is not enough?
If, when re-hanging, you find that the wires going to the display or lamp are too short for the new configuration, do not under any circumstances tighten them. In some models, you can carefully disassemble the plastic cable channel inside the door and free up some extra length. If there is no stock, you will need to extend the wires using soldering and high-quality insulation, which is best left to a professional.
Installing the door and adjusting the tight fit
After preparing all the holes and transferring the fittings, the installation stage begins. Installation is carried out in the reverse order: first hang the bottom door, then, if necessary, install the middle hinge, and finally the top one. Do not tighten the bolts all the way yet, leaving a small gap for subsequent position adjustment.
A critically important point is to check the horizontal installation of the refrigerator itself. If the unit is on an uneven floor, the door will open on its own or, conversely, not close completely. Use a spirit level and adjustable feet at the bottom of the cabinet to level the device. The front edge of the refrigerator should be raised 1-2 cm above the back so that the door closes under the influence of gravity.
Now you need to check the tightness sealing rubber along the entire perimeter. Take a sheet of paper, clamp it with the door and try to pull it out. It should come out with noticeable force. If the paper flies out freely or, conversely, the door does not close until it clicks, the hinge height needs to be adjusted. Loosen the fasteners and move the door up or down until the desired result is achieved.
⚠️ Attention: After installing the door, it may take several hours for the seal to straighten out and take the correct shape. If you see small gaps immediately after installation, do not panic - let the refrigerator stand closed for 3-4 hours.
Common mistakes and ways to eliminate them
Even when following the instructions, beginners often make mistakes that can negate all the work. One of the most common is the loss or confusion of fasteners. The bolts for the left and right sides may have different lengths or thread pitches. Trying to screw a short screw into a deep hole will cause the hinge to dangle, and a long screw in a shallow hole can rest and split the plastic.
Another common problem is damage to the threads in the refrigerator body. This happens if you tighten the bolts at an angle or with excessive force. If the thread is still broken, you can try to use a longer bolt with a nut (if the design allows) or use a special repair compound for metal, but it is better to avoid such situations by working carefully.
Sometimes after rehanging, users notice that the refrigerator begins to make more noise. This may be due to the fact that the door does not fit tightly and (the compressor) works in increased mode, or the vibration is transmitted to improperly secured elements. Check that the condenser tubes are not touching the back of the cabinet or other parts.
Keep in mind that specifications and designs may vary depending on model year. If you own a very old or, conversely, the latest “smart” model, always check the manufacturer’s official manual, as general advice may not take into account the unique features of a particular device.
Questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to rehang the door if there is a display on it?
Yes, this is possible, but it requires increased caution. You will have to disconnect the ribbon cable going to the display and thread it through the new holes. It is important not to damage the contacts and reliably insulate the connections. In some models, the length of the wires does not allow you to make an excess without extending them.
Is it necessary to defrost the refrigerator before rehanging?
Yes, this is a mandatory requirement. First, the refrigerator must be completely defrosted and dry to prevent water from getting into the electrical contacts when removing the doors. Secondly, empty doors are easier and safer to dismantle than loaded doors.
What to do if there are no holes for hinges on the other side?
If the instructions for your model say that overweight is possible, then there should be holes, even if they are closed with plugs or filled with foam (in rare cases). If there really are no holes (often the case in old models or monoblocks), then you won’t be able to re-hang the door yourself without professional equipment and drilling the case - this can damage the thermal insulation.
Why, after re-hanging, does the door not stay open?
Most likely, the refrigerator is installed tilted back or strictly vertically. For the self-closing (or holding) mechanism to work correctly, the unit must stand with a slight tilt forward. Adjust the front legs by unscrewing them to lift the front of the device.