The situation when, after purchasing a new refrigerator or rearranging furniture, it turns out that the door opens in the wrong direction, familiar to many. This creates enormous inconvenience when cooking, prevents the full opening of cabinets in the kitchen and limits access to shelves. Fortunately, the design of most modern models allows you to change the opening direction without calling a technician.
The process of hanging doors requires accuracy, a basic set of tools and an understanding of the design of fastening units. In this article, we will look in detail at how to change the opening side, what nuances to consider when working with different types of hinges, and how to avoid common mistakes that can lead to damage to the case or seal.
Before starting the active phase of work, it is necessary to carefully prepare the workplace. Make sure you have enough space around the unit to maneuver. It is also worth studying the technical data sheet of your model in advance, since different manufacturers, such as LG, Bosch or Indesit, may have their own peculiarities of fastening handles and door closer mechanisms.
Preparation of tools and workplace
You should start by clearing the space around the refrigeration equipment. You will need space not only to walk around the unit on all sides, but also to temporarily store the removed parts so as not to lose small screws or plugs. It is better to cover the floor with soft material, for example, cardboard or a blanket, so that a part that accidentally falls does not damage the floor covering or the equipment itself.
To complete the task, you will need a standard home handyman's kit. The main tools will be Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, as well as a set of open-end wrenches or a ratchet head. Some models may require hex keys, which are often included with new equipment.
- 🔧 A set of screwdrivers of different sizes for different types of screws.
- 🔩 Open-end wrenches or socket head (usually 8 mm or 10 mm).
- 🧤 Work gloves for protection hands from sharp metal edges.
- 🧼 Clean rags for wiping fastening points.
Pay special attention to safety. Although we will not disassemble the electrical part, the refrigerator is still an electrical appliance. Before starting any manipulations with mechanical components associated with moving heavy elements, it is recommended to disconnect the device from the network.
☑️ Preparation for work
Removing the top panel and door
The first step is always to remove the top cover of the refrigerator, if it is structurally provided for in your model. This is necessary to gain access to the upper hinge fasteners. Usually the cover is held on by two screws on the front or back, which you need to unscrew and then slide the panel back or up.
After removing the cover, you will have access to the top hinge. In some models, for example, those with a system Samsung with the system Twin Cooling, display or backlight control wires can also pass here. If there are wires, they must be carefully disconnected, remembering the location of the connectors, so as not to damage the contacts during reassembly.
⚠️ Attention: Never pull the wires by force. If the connector does not budge, check whether there is a locking latch on it that needs to be bent.
Next we move on to the door itself. Before unscrewing the top hinge completely, make sure that the door is securely secured or supported by an assistant. A sudden fall of a heavy door with shelves can cause injury or damage to the bottom hinge. After unscrewing the top hinge bolts, carefully lift the door and remove it from the bottom axis.
What to do if the screws are rusty?
If the mounting bolts do not come off due to oxidation, drop a little penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) on them and wait 10-15 minutes. Do not use excessive force so as not to break the thread.
It is better to immediately put the removed door in a safe place, laying it on its side on a soft mat so as not to scratch the front surface. Now you can move on to working with the lower part of the unit.
Rearranging the lower hinge and axis
The lower hinge is the load-bearing element on which the entire door structure is based. In most refrigerators it is secured with bolts that need to be unscrewed. After dismantling, the hinge must be moved to the opposite side of the case.
There will be holes in the vacant space. They must be closed with decorative plugs, which usually come with the refrigerator or are already installed on the other side. If there are no plugs, the holes can be closed with pieces of plastic or even carefully sealed so that dust and moisture do not get inside.
An important point is the installation of a new axis of rotation. Often the axle is pressed into a hinge or inserted into the housing. When rearranging, make sure that the axle is installed strictly vertically and securely fixed. Play in this assembly will cause the door to open by itself or, conversely, not close tightly.
In some models, such as old Atlanta or Biryusy, the design may involve the use of a special bushing or washer, which must be rearranged along with the hinge. Carefully inspect the removed parts: everything that was on the left side should move symmetrically to the right.
Features of models with the No Frost system
Refrigerators with the system No Frost have a more complex design due to the presence of air ducts and fans. When reversing the door in such models, a problem often arises with the cold air supply channel. In older models, this channel could be rigid, which made re-hanging impossible without replacing the door itself.
Modern models, as a rule, are equipped with a flexible corrugated air duct that allows you to change the opening side. However, during dismantling you must act extremely carefully so as not to damage this pipe. It can be attached to the inner wall of the door and requires careful detachment.
| Type of system | Presence of air duct | Difficulty of re-hanging | Required actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drip | Absent | Low | Only rearrangement of loops |
| No Frost (old) | Hard | High/Impossible | Door or duct replacement required |
| No Frost (new) | Flexible corrugated | Medium | Accurate disconnection of the pipe |
| Full No Frost | Flexible in both chambers | Medium/High | Rearrangement in the freezer and refrigerator compartment |
When working with the system No Frost it is critical to correctly connect the duct when reassembling. If the connection is not airtight, cold air will escape into the space between the housing and the door, which will lead to the formation of ice and ineffective operation of the compressor.
⚠️ Attention: Make sure that the corrugated air duct hose is not kinked or pinched by the walls of the chamber. This may disrupt air circulation.
Installing the door on the new side
After preparing all the fasteners on the new side, you can begin hanging the door. This step is best done with two people, as the doors of modern refrigerators, especially those with stained glass or displays, can be quite heavy.
Carefully slide the door onto the lower axis, making sure it sits level. Then install the top hinge in its new location. Do not tighten the top hinge bolts all the way right away. First, tighten them so that you still have the ability to adjust the position of the door.
- 🚪 Align the holes in the door with the holes in the top hinge.
- 🔩 Insert the bolts and lightly grab them, leaving some play.
- 📐 Check that the door is installed vertically relative to housing.
- 🔒 Tighten all fasteners tightly.
If your model has an electronic display or control button, now is the time to connect the cables. Make sure the connectors click into place. Place the wires in the channels intended for them so that they do not interfere with the movement of the door.
The final stage of installation is to check the operation of the door. It should open smoothly, without jerking, and close tightly. If the door is crooked, you will need to adjust the height of the refrigerator legs or tighten the hinges.
Adjusting gaps and checking tightness
After installing the door on a new side, the need for adjustment often arises. An incorrect gap between the door and the body can cause the refrigerator to close poorly or, conversely, the door to bounce off the body.
To adjust, use the adjusting screws on the hinges, if provided by the design, or change the height of the front supports of the refrigerator. By twisting the legs, you can tilt the body a little back, which will ensure automatic closing of the door when opened less than 90 degrees.
⚠️ Attention: Check the tightness of the magnetic seal around the entire perimeter. There should be no gaps between the rubber and the body through which the cold escapes.
There is a simple test to check the tightness. Place a sheet of paper under the refrigerator door so that half the sheet hangs out. Try to pull out the sheet. If it is pulled out easily without resistance, it means that the seal does not fit tightly in this place and requires replacement or heating with a hairdryer to restore its shape.
Frequent errors and ways to eliminate them
When performing work independently, beginners often make mistakes that can negate all efforts. One of the most common is the loss of fasteners. To avoid this, it is better to put all screws and plugs on one side into a separate container, marking where they came from.
Another mistake is ignoring the manufacturer’s instructions. Models Haier or Liebherr may contain specific retainers that cannot simply be thrown away. They also often forget to rearrange the handles if the door design allows it, which makes operation inconvenient.
If, after rehanging, the door begins to creak, check for lubrication in the rubbing units. If it no longer closes tightly, it is possible that there was a misalignment during installation, and the position of the unit on the floor will need to be re-adjusted.
Is it possible to rehang the door yourself without losing the warranty?
In most cases, manufacturers allow the user to independently change the side of the door opening, as this is provided for by the design. However, if in the process you break the thread, break the glass or damage the cables, the warranty case will not be recognized. Always act carefully and save all removed parts.
What to do if the length of the cable for the display is not enough?
In rare cases, when moving the door to the opposite side, the standard length of the wire may not be enough. In such a situation, you cannot pull the wire “under tension”. It is necessary to carefully lay it in a zigzag in the free space or, as a last resort, contact a service center to extend the cable.
Is it necessary to defrost the refrigerator before rehanging it?
It is not necessary to specifically defrost the refrigerator if it is in good working order. However, if you plan to unplug it for a long time or tilt it more than 40 degrees, it is better to wait until the compressor stops and let the oil drain. Sharp tilts of a running compressor can be harmful.
Why does the door slam after re-hanging?
A slam when closing indicates too strong a vacuum effect or too tight hinges. Try unscrewing the adjusting feet a little to change the angle, or check if the seal is stuck to the body due to dirt.