How to remove the door of an Ariston refrigerator: step-by-step instructions

The need to remove the door from the refrigerator Ariston most often arises when moving to a new apartment or when replacing a kitchen unit, when the dimensions of the passage do not allow carrying the assembled unit. Owners are often faced with the fact that the equipment simply does not fit into the doorway or elevator, and the only solution is a temporary dismantling operation. This is a standard procedure that does not require calling a specialist if you act carefully and consistently.

The design of refrigerated cabinets from this Italian brand, despite the variety of models, is based on unified fastening principles. Understanding the mechanics of hinges and the correct sequence of actions will allow you to avoid damage to the enamel, plastic or sealing rubber. The main thing is not to rush and enlist the help of a second person, since the door leaf with shelves and the compressor motor can be quite heavy and inconvenient to hold with one hand.

Before you start directly unscrewing the bolts, you need to thoroughly prepare the workplace and the unit itself. Safety When working with household appliances comes first, so the first step is There should always be a complete disconnection of the device from the electrical network. Unplug the plug from the socket and make sure that the cord will not interfere with work or be accidentally touched when moving a heavy case.

Empty the interior of the refrigerator and freezer compartments of all food, glass shelves and plastic containers. A loaded door has significantly more weight, and the risk of dropping it or damaging the fastenings when trying to remove it along with its contents is extremely high. It is also recommended to prepare tools in advance: you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a wrench (usually 8 or 10 mm) and possibly pliers for removing decorative caps.

  • 🔧 A medium-sized Phillips screwdriver for the hinge screws.
  • 🔩 A wrench or socket wrench (size depends on models).
  • 🧤 Work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal edges.
  • 📦 A container for folding small fasteners so that they do not get lost.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to remove the door if the refrigerator has not yet completely defrosted after prolonged use. Condensation inside the hinge mechanisms can make the surface slippery, which increases the risk of tool slipping and injury.
📊 For what purpose are you removing the door?
For moving
To replace the seal
To adjust the hinges
For deep cleaning

The process of dismantling the upper door (refrigerator compartment) usually begins with the removal of decorative elements that hide the fasteners. On most models Ariston the upper loop is closed with a plastic cover or plug, which must be carefully pryed off with a flat screwdriver or knife. Do not use excessive force to avoid breaking the plastic fasteners, as they are often made of brittle material.

After removing the cover, you will see the mounting bolts holding the hinge. Fastening may consist of two or three screws, depending on the width of the door leaf and the series of the refrigerator. Before completely unscrewing them, the door must be held, since after loosening the bolts it will lose support and may fall on your feet or hit the body.

The best option is to work with two people: one person holds the door in a vertical position, and the second unscrews the screws. If you don't have a helper, you can use a sturdy stand or box under the door, but this is less safe and requires more care. After unscrewing the bolts, the upper hinge is removed, and the door is carefully moved to the side and set aside.

☑️ Preparation for removal

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The lower door (freezer) is attached in a similar way, but there are some nuances associated with the design of the lower hinge and possible additional elements. In some refrigerator models Ariston with a system No Frost or combined cooling, wires or tubes may pass through the space between the doors, although this is rare in classic models.

Carefully inspect the area between the upper and lower doors before removing the lower panel. If you find electrical connectors (for example, for a lamp or display on a door), they must be carefully disconnected after photographing the position of the contacts. Mechanical tearing of the wires will lead to expensive repairs to the electrical part.

The lower hinge often has a more complex design with an axis that fits into a hole in the door. When removing, it is important not to warp the door so that the axle comes out of the seat smoothly. Sudden movements can damage the bushings or the hinge axis itself, which will lead to backlash and noise during further operation.

What to do if the bolt is rusty?

If the mounting bolt is stuck and will not unscrew, do not use excessive force so as not to strip the thread. Treat the joint with a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) and leave for 10-15 minutes. Once the rust has softened, the bolt should come out easier. As a last resort, you can carefully warm up the joint with a hairdryer, but be careful with plastic elements nearby.

After removing the doors, you will be faced with the issue of storing and transporting them. Correct placement of the removed elements will help avoid deformation of the canvas and damage to the seals. It is not recommended to place the doors vertically, resting them only on one corner, since metal or plastic can bend under their own weight.

It is best to place the doors horizontally on a flat surface, having previously covered it with cardboard or soft cloth. If space is limited, you can place them vertically, but be sure to rest the wide side against the wall and secure it so that they do not fall. It is better to wipe the sealing rubber and leave it in a straightened state without jamming it.

Element Action Tool Risk of error
Upper hinge Remove the plug, unscrew the bolts Screwdriver, key Door drop
Bottom hinge Unscrew the axle fastening Wrench, pliers Axle damage
Sealant Remove (if necessary) No Rubber cut
Display/Lamp Disconnect the cable No Wire break
⚠️ Attention: When transporting removed doors, never step on them or place heavy objects on top. A thin sheet of metal of a refrigeration door is easily deformed, and it is almost impossible to straighten it back without leaving marks.

Installing the doors in the reverse order requires precise alignment of the holes and compliance with the tightening torque of the bolts. Start installation from the bottom door, as it is the base for leveling the entire structure. Insert the axis of the lower hinge into the corresponding hole on the door and set the door in place, then screw the lower hinge to the refrigerator body.

Then install the upper door, aligning the holes with the upper hinge. At this stage, it is important not to completely tighten the bolts right away. First, tighten all the screws, check the tightness of the seal around the entire perimeter and only then make the final tightening. Adjustment The gap between the door and the body is critical for the proper operation of the refrigerator.

If after installation you notice that the door does not fit tightly or is skewed, use adjusting screws (if provided by the design) or pads for hinges. Loose closure will lead to constant activation of the compressor, freezing of the evaporator and spoilage of food, so special attention should be paid to this stage.

In some cases, the standard removal procedure may be complicated by the design features of a particular model or the technical condition of the fasteners. For example, in models with a Multi-Air Flow or other complex air circulation systems, additional fasteners may be hidden behind the panels. It is also worth considering that on old refrigerators the threaded connections can be heavily oxidized.

If you are faced with a situation where the bolt cannot be unscrewed and the fasteners are “licked off,” you should not use brute force. Using an impact driver or drilling out the bolt head is a last resort. It is better to spend time treating with penetrating lubricant and carefully trying to loosen the connection.

After completing all dismantling, transportation and reinstallation work, it is necessary to check the functionality of the refrigerator. Plug in the device and let it run idle for a few hours. This will ensure that the compressor is operating normally and the cooling system is functioning correctly.

Pay attention to the operation of door locks and magnetic latches. If, when closing, you hear a characteristic pop or feel vacuum resistance when opening a minute after closing, it means tightness it has been completely restored. Otherwise, it may be necessary to re-adjust the hinges or replace the seal.

Is it necessary to drain the oil from the compressor before removing the doors?

No, removing the doors has nothing to do with the refrigerant and oil circulation system. The compressor is sealed, and tilting or removing attachments does not require draining technical fluids. However, when transporting the refrigerator body itself, it is recommended not to tilt it more than 40 degrees.

Is it possible to remove the door alone, without an assistant?

Technically this is possible, especially for narrow single-chamber models, but it is highly not recommended. The door is heavy and uncomfortable, there is a high risk of dropping it and damaging the floor or legs. For two-chamber refrigerators Ariston the presence of a second person is mandatory for safety.

What to do if after installation the door opens by itself?

Most likely, the refrigerator is not level. Check the adjustment feet at the bottom of the housing. The front of the refrigerator should be slightly higher than the back so that the door closes automatically under the influence of gravity. Also check if anything inside (products, shelves) is preventing it from closing tightly.

How to move the door to the other side?

The procedure is similar to removal, but requires moving the hinges to the opposite side and moving the plugs into the vacated holes. Some models Ariston also require rearranging the handle, which may require additional tools and care.