Moving or simply rearranging large appliances in the kitchen often turns into a complex logistics task, especially when it comes to massive models Side-by-Side. The width of such units often exceeds the standard 80-90 centimeters of doorways, making it physically impossible to carry an undisassembled refrigerator without the risk of damaging the walls or the equipment itself. It is at this moment that there is an urgent need to dismantle the door panels in order to reduce the dimensions of the device to an acceptable size.
Many owners are afraid to begin this procedure on their own for fear of damaging the complex hinge system or breaking the tightness. However, if you act consistently and follow precautionary measuresthe process takes no more than 40-60 minutes, even for an inexperienced master. The main thing here is to take your time and strictly follow the algorithm, since the design of hinges from different manufacturers may have its own unique features.
In this article we will analyze in detail all the stages of preparation, dismantling and subsequent installation of doors. You will learn exactly what tools you will need, how to properly disconnect electrical cables, if any, and what to do with heavy doors to avoid damaging the floor. We will also look at the nuances of setting up closers and leveling the body after assembly.
Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace
Before proceeding with direct dismantling, it is necessary to prepare the workspace and collect all the required tools. Safety and having the right equipment is the foundation of successful work, which cannot be ignored under any circumstances. Lack of the required screwdriver or wrench can lead to broken bolt heads, which will significantly complicate the process.
Free up space around the refrigerator by at least one and a half meters on all sides. Not only will you need to walk around the unit, but you will also need to have a place to neatly place the heavy doors that have been removed. It is better to cover the floor with thick cardboard or an old blanket to avoid scratches on the laminate or tile, and also to protect the enamel of the door panels from chipping when in contact with a hard surface.
Be sure to unplug the refrigerator from the power supply. This is a critical step as you will have to work with electrical connections and the risk of shock or short circuit must be eliminated completely. After turning off, let the equipment stand for 10-15 minutes so that the capacitors are discharged and the refrigerant is stabilized in the system.
- 🔧 Phillips screwdriver (sizes PH1, PH2) and a flat screwdriver for prying off the plugs.
- 🔩 A set of open-end or socket wrenches (usually total sizes required are 8, 10, 13 mm).
- 🧤 Durable work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal edges.
- 🧊 Container for small parts to avoid losing screws and washers.
⚠️ Attention: Never use an electric drill or screwdriver to unscrew loops if you have no experience with torque limiter. Excessive force may strip the threads in the aluminum hinge housing or crack the plastic housing of the refrigerator.
Prepare a container for folding the fasteners. It is best to label each step or lay out the bolts in the order they were removed on a piece of paper labeled “Top Hinge,” “Bottom Hinge,” etc. This will save you a lot of time during reassembly, when you need to remember which screw was screwed in where.
Design features of Side-by-Side hinges
Type refrigerators Side-by-Side are structurally different from traditional two-chamber models. Here, the freezer and refrigerator compartments are located side by side, rather than above each other, which implies the presence of a vertical partition in the center and a specific door hinge system. Understanding how it works hinge systemwill help you avoid mistakes during dismantling.
In most models, the left door (freezer) and the right door (refrigerator) have independent fastening points, but are often connected to each other through a central axis or common decorative elements. The top hinges usually bear the brunt of the weight, while the bottom hinges provide support and center the sash. On some models Samsung or LG there are hidden loops located inside the case, access to which is possible only after removing the decorative panels.
Particular attention should be paid to the presence of passage holes for wires. In modern models, cables for displays, backlights or door opening sensors often pass through the hinges. Electrical connectors can be located both in the upper and lower parts of the doorway, and their damage will lead to inoperability of the electronics.
| Type hinges | Location | Fastening features | Risks during removal |
|---|---|---|---|
| Open top | Top of the body | Visible bolts under the decorative cover | Door falls when unscrewed |
| Hidden (internal) | Inside the end of the door | Requires removal of plugs and panels | Damage to the plastic body |
| Lower support | At the bottom of the doorway | Often combined with the axis of rotation | Axis jamming when skewed |
| Central axis | Between the doors | Connects both leaves | Violation of the opening geometry |
It is important to note that some manufacturers, for example, Bosch or Siemensmay have hinges equipped with closers. These are mechanisms that smoothly close the door. When dismantling such systems, you need to be extremely careful, since the springs of the closer are under tension.
What is a door closer?
A door closer is a hydraulic or mechanical mechanism that ensures smooth and silent closing of the refrigerator door. Inside there is a spring and oil. You cannot disassemble it yourself, since when opened, the oil will leak out and the mechanism will stop working.
Removing the top part and electrical connections
The process of removing the doors always starts from the top of the refrigerator. This is due to the fact that it is the upper hinges that fix the door in a vertical position, and loosening them allows you to lift the sash. First you need to remove the decorative plugs or plastic covers that hide the mounting bolts. They can simply snap on or be held on by latches that need to be carefully pryed off with a flat screwdriver.
If your model is equipped with a display on the door or a system No Frost with sensors, then before unscrewing the hinges you need to find and disconnect the electrical connectors. They are usually located in the upper header between the doors or directly in the hinge body. Carefully unclip the plastic connector retainer and separate the contacts. Do not pull the wires - this may lead to their breakage inside the insulation.
After freeing the wires, you can begin to unscrew the bolts of the upper loop. An assistant is definitely needed here. One person should hold the door so that it does not fall while the second unscrews the fasteners. The bolts may be soured or covered with factory varnish, so apply force evenly so as not to turn the key.
☑️ Procedure for disconnecting the wires
After removing the upper fasteners, the door still holds on the lower axis. However, if the design involves complete removal of the upper hinge along with the axle, then the door must be lifted upward to disengage it from the lower pin. This must be done sharply, but in a controlled manner, so as not to damage the sealing gum.
Removing the door panels and working with the lower support
When the upper hinge is dismantled, the most crucial moment comes - the physical removal of the heavy door. The weight of one sash Side-by-Side can reach 30-40 kilograms, so this cannot be done without the help of a second person. One person takes the door by the upper end (where the hinge was), and the second secures it from below or holds it by the handle.
The movement should be directed strictly upward. If the lower axle has a retaining screw or washer, it must be removed first. In some models LG or Haier the lower axis can rotate along with the door, so you may need to clamp it with pliers from below while you pull the door up.
After removing the left (freezer) door, a similar procedure is carried out with the right one. Please note that the center vertical bar (if present and not part of the housing) may also require removal. It is often attached from the bottom and top, and its removal greatly facilitates access to the internal chambers during transportation.
⚠️ Attention: When removing the door, keep an eye on the seal. If you pull the door to the side without lifting it high enough, the magnetic tape can catch on the body and tear or become deformed, resulting in loss of seal.
The removed doors should be carefully laid on a prepared soft surface. They need to be placed with the outer side up to avoid scratching the front panel. It is better to lay a layer of cardboard or fabric between the doors so that they do not rub against each other during storage or transportation.
Nuances for different brands and models
Although the general principle of dismantling is similar, different manufacturers have their own “tricks” that can confuse an unprepared person. For example, refrigerators Samsung Side-by-Side often have a system of hidden hinges, where the bolts are deep inside, and access requires a long Phillips screwdriver or a key extension.
Models Indesit i Ariston may have specific plastic bushings in the bottom supports that easily break when skewed. If you feel that the door is tight, do not use force - check that all fixing elements have been removed. Expensive models Sub-Zero or Liebherr may have additional stoppers installed that block door removal without a special hex key.
There are also models with a system Door-in-Door, where another small door is installed on the main door. In such cases, it is recommended to first remove the inner door, if the design allows, to reduce the overall weight and dimensions, although this is often not necessary for carrying through the opening.
- 🔍 Look for hidden screws under stickers or rubber plugs on the ends of the doors.
- 🔍 Check for the presence of locking pins in the bottom axis before lifting doors.
- 🔍 For some models, the upper decorative panel is removed by moving it towards you after snapping the latches.
If you are the owner of a rare or very new model, which is not in the standard instructions, search for technical documentation (service manual) by exact model number is a mandatory step before starting work. This will help avoid damage to unique fasteners.
Reassembling and adjusting the doors
After successful transportation, the stage of installing the doors in place begins. The process goes in the reverse order: first the lower support axis is installed, then the door is put on the pin, and only after that the upper hinge is screwed on. It is important not to tighten the top bolts “all the way” right away - tighten them first so that you can align the door.
Adjusting the position of the doors is a critical step. If the door is skewed, it will not fit tightly, which will lead to ice freezing and increased energy consumption. To make adjustments, use the adjustment supports at the bottom of the refrigerator body (legs). By rotating them, you can raise the left or right corner, achieving an ideal horizon.
Check the operation of the closers and the tightness of the seal around the entire perimeter. The door must close on its own from a certain opening angle (usually 30-45 degrees). If this does not happen, the hinges may be overtightened or, conversely, have play.
⚠️ Attention: After installing the doors, do not immediately plug in the refrigerator. Let it stand in an upright position for at least 2-4 hours (and if transported on its side, then up to 24 hours) so that the oil in the compressor flows into the crankcase.
The final step will be connecting the electrical connectors. Make sure they click into place. Turn on the power and check the operation of the displays, lamps and sensors. If everything functions correctly and the door closes with a pleasant slam without any gaps, the job can be considered completed.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to remove the doors of a Side-by-Side refrigerator alone?
Technically this is possible, but it is highly not recommended. The doors are very heavy and bulky. Without an assistant, there is a high risk of dropping the door on your foot, damaging the floor or hitting the walls. In addition, it is difficult for one person to simultaneously hold the door and unscrew the bolts.
Is it necessary to defrost the refrigerator before removing the doors?
Yes, this is necessary. Ice in the evaporator can shift the center of gravity, and water formed when melting during work can get on electrical contacts or flood the floor. In addition, a full refrigerator is much heavier.
What to do if the top hinge bolts cannot be unscrewed?
Do not use excessive force to avoid tearing off the cap. Try using a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) by placing it on the threads and waiting 10-15 minutes. Also make sure that you are using the correct size tool.
Will removing the doors affect the warranty?
Removing the doors yourself for transportation, as a rule, is not grounds for denying the warranty unless the refrigerator components are damaged. However, if you strip a thread or break a hinge, this will not be covered under warranty. Keep all removed parts.
How to transport a Side-by-Side refrigerator without removing the doors?
This is only possible if the width of the doorways and corridors allows it. The standard Side-by-Side width is about 90-91 cm. If the opening is 90 cm, you will not fit. In such cases, removing the doors is the only solution. During transportation, you can tilt the refrigerator no more than 40 degrees.