How to remove the engine from the Atlant refrigerator: step-by-step algorithm

Faced with a breakdown of household appliances, many owners decide to repair it themselves in order to save their budget. If your Atlant stops freezing or the compressor hums but does not start, the motor often needs to be replaced or overhauled. Dismantling this unit is a responsible process that requires compliance with safety precautions and an understanding of the structure of the unit.

Improper handling of pipes or electrical parts can lead to serious damage to the system. Before starting work, it is important to realize that tightness of the circuit it is broken, and after repair it will require professional refrigerant charging. We will look at the detailed process of removing the engine so that you can properly prepare for the procedure.

In this article we will analyze all the stages: from preparing the tools to the final disconnection of the tubes. You will learn how to avoid common mistakes and what to do with copper lines. The main thing is to act consistently, without exerting excessive physical effort where accuracy is needed.

Necessary tools and workplace preparation

To successfully dismantle the compressor, you will need a basic set of plumbing tools. You should not start work if you do not have high-quality pliers or screwdrivers at hand, as this can lead to thread breakage or damage to the insulation. Prepare a container in advance to collect oil that may leak from the old motor.

Pay special attention to lighting and the space around the refrigerator. You will need to work at the bottom of the unit, where dust often accumulates. Safety is priority number one, so make sure the floor is dry and stable.

  • 🔧 Screwdriver set (phillips and flathead) for removing panels.
  • 🔩 Pliers or pliers for working with clamps.
  • ⚡ Multimeter to check the integrity of the windings before removal.
  • 🧤 Protective gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal edges.

If you have the opportunity, get a pipe cutter, although it is not always necessary for simple removal. However, having this tool will allow you to carefully cut the tubes if they are too short or damaged by corrosion. A container of water will also be useful to check the tightness of the new compressor before installation, but this is already the installation stage.

☑️ Preparation for dismantling

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Ensuring safety and turning off the power supply

The first and most important rule is to completely de-energize the device. Simply turning off the button is not enough; you need to unplug the cord from the outlet. During operation, you will touch metal parts and electrical contacts, so the risk of electric shock should be completely eliminated.

After turning off, let the refrigerator stand for a while. This is necessary so that any refrigerant that may have migrated into the compressor oil sump will evaporate. If you start disassembling right away, there is a risk of splashing oil along with freon, which is unpleasant for the eyes and skin.

⚠️ Attention: Never try to remove the compressor while the refrigerator is plugged in. Even when turned off, a residual charge may remain in the start relay capacitor, which can cause unpleasant sensations.

Inspect the back wall of the unit for visible damage to the wire insulation. If you find melted areas or cracks, they must be isolated before further manipulation. Working with electrical wiring requires increased care.

Access to the compressor: removing the protective casing

The compressor in refrigerators Atlant is located in the lower rear part of the case. It is covered with a metal or plastic casing that protects the mechanism from dust and accidental touches. To access it, you need to turn the refrigerator over or carefully tilt it, supporting it with wooden blocks.

The casing is usually secured with bolts or latches. Older models may use nuts that will have to be unscrewed with a wrench. Be careful, the edges of the metal can be sharp, so the use of gloves is especially important here.

After removing the cover, you will have a view of the motor-compressor, condenser and pipe system. Assess the condition of the fastenings. They often become overgrown with rust, which requires pre-treatment with a penetrating lubricant. Do not pull sharply so as not to damage the suitable copper tubes.

📊 What type of casing fastening are you faced with?
Bolts
Latches
Spring fasteners
Welded lugs

Disconnection of electrical contacts and starting relay

At the end of the compressor there are three contacts onto which the starting relay is placed together with a thermal protector. This unit is responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overheating. You need to remove it carefully, rocking it from side to side, but without using excessive force.

The wires going to the relay may be stiff due to heat. If the plastic of the contact group has darkened or melted, this is a sure sign of overload or poor contact. In this case, starting relay also needs to be replaced together with the compressor or separately if the motor is in good condition.

To disconnect the wires, sometimes you need to unscrew a small screw on the terminal block. Remember or write down which wire is connected where. The colors of the insulation may fade, and you cannot rely solely on them. Some models Atlant use specific markings.

Element Function Fault symptom Action
Start relay Engine starting Clicks, no start Replacement
Thermal relay Overheat protection Shutdown after a minute Check with a tester
Capacitor Noise smoothing Bloating, cracks Replacement
Terminal block Switching Fusing, carbon deposits Cleaning or replacement
What's inside starting relay?

Inside the plastic relay case there is a coil with a core and contacts. When voltage is applied, the core rises and closes the starting circuit. Over time, the contacts burn out, and the mechanism may jam.

Disconnecting copper tubes from the compressor

The most critical stage is working with the lines. Two tubes are connected to the compressor: one for discharging refrigerant (usually thinner and hotter during operation), the other for suction (thicker, colder). They need to be cut at a distance of 10-15 cm from the motor housing.

It is not recommended to use a hacksaw for metal, as small chips can get inside the tubes and subsequently clog the capillary system. The ideal option is a special pipe cutter. If you don't have one, you can use side cutters to cut through, but then you need to carefully clean the edges.

When biting off the tubes, residual gas may escape from them. Ensure good ventilation. If the compressor is old, oil mixed with freon may leak from the cut ends. Place the container prepared in advance. It is important not to damage the condenser or evaporator tubes located nearby, as their repair is more difficult.

⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to bend copper tubes at an acute angle. Copper easily breaks at a break, which will require soldering and restoration of the line, which is difficult to do at home without equipment.

After disconnecting the tubes, the compressor is actually free, but it is still held by fasteners. Check to see if there are any additional components or sensors soldered to the motor housing that may interfere with removal.

Removing fastening elements and removing the engine

The compressor in refrigerators Atlant is usually attached to the frame on four legs with rubber shock absorbers. They dampen vibration when the engine is running. To remove the motor, you need to unscrew the bolts passing through these bushings, or remove the washers, if the design allows.

Often the bolts stick or rust. Use a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. When unscrewing, hold the engine with your hand so that it does not fall sharply, damaging the tubes or tearing off the legs.

After unscrewing all the bolts, carefully remove the unit from the niche. It weighs a lot (about 10 kg), so be careful not to drop it on your feet. When removing, pay attention to the angle of inclination: the compressor should not be tilted or turned over too much so that oil does not enter the circulation circuit if you plan to reuse it (although this is rare).

Common mistakes when removing a compressor

Beginners often make mistakes that complicate further repairs. One of the most common is an attempt to remove the compressor without disconnecting the tubes, by bending them. This leads to creases and the need to completely refill the system and replace the filter.

Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the rubber shock absorbers. If they become dry or torn, they must be replaced. Otherwise, the new or repaired engine will vibrate and make a lot of noise, which will lead to its rapid failure.

  • 🚫 Trying to tear off the relay by force without disconnecting the wires.
  • 🚫 Using an open flame near the refrigerator (freon residues are flammable).
  • 🚫 Forgetfulness in draining the oil, which leads to contamination of the floor and clothes.

It is also worth mentioning the loss of small parts. It is better to put bolts, washers and nuts in a magnetic tray or jar. The loss of fasteners during the repair process is a classic situation that stops the entire process.

Is it possible to remove a compressor without a pipe cutter?

Yes, you can use wire cutters or side cutters, but you need to act very carefully. Cut the tube in several stages, not all the way, so as not to flatten the hole. After this, the cut area will need to be carefully expanded and cleaned with a file to ensure normal soldering during installation.

Does it need to drain the oil before removal?

There is no need to specially drain the oil through the system, it will come out on its own when cutting the tubes. However, if the compressor was left for a long time, oil could drain into the lower part. If the refrigerator is in a horizontal position during removal, some of the oil may leak out through the cut tubes, so a stand is required.

What to do if the mounting bolts are rusty?

Lubricate them generously with penetrating liquid and leave for 20 minutes. Try tapping the bolt head lightly to break up the rust layer. If the bolt does not fit, do not use excessive force so as not to break the mounting ear on the compressor - it is better to heat the connection point with a hair dryer.