Loss of cooling capacity, the formation of ice on the rear wall or a complete lack of cooling often indicates a malfunction in the evaporation system. In such cases, the master is faced with the task of getting to the hidden unit, which is usually hidden behind plastic panels and a layer of thermal insulation. Removing the evaporator is a technically complex procedure that requires not only physical effort, but also an understanding of the design of a particular unit, be it Indesit, Atlant or Samsung.
Before taking active steps, it is necessary to realize that this process irreversibly breaks the tightness of the circuit if special valves are not used or if the model does not provide Schrader valves. In most household models, the evaporator is sealed in aluminum foam or glued to the back wall. which makes its replacement a labor-intensive operation, often requiring a complete re-soldering of the system. However, if you have made a firm decision to carry out the repair yourself, it is important to act consistently so as not to damage fragile tubes and electrical components.
This article is intended to structure your knowledge about the internal structure of the refrigerator compartment and help avoid common mistakes during dismantling. We will analyze the nuances of working with different types of structures, from open coils to foamed No Frost systems, and will pay special attention to safety, since the work involves electricity and refrigerant.
Diagnostics and preparation of the workplace
The first stage is always an accurate diagnosis. Replacing the evaporator is an extreme measure that is used when a freon leak is confirmed in this particular unit or when it is mechanically damaged (for example, due to careless defrosting with a knife). It is necessary to make sure that the problem does not lie in a failure of the compressor or a blockage of the capillary tube, since in these cases dismantling the heat exchanger will be pointless. Visual inspection through the holes in the chamber or removing the back panel of the freezer will help you see characteristic swelling or traces of oil indicating a breakdown.
Preparation of the workplace plays a critical role in the success of the operation. You will need enough space around the refrigerator to be able to lay it on its side or turn it around to access the back. Prepare all the necessary tools in advance: screwdrivers of different types (Phillips and flat-head), a knife for neatly cutting the insulation, a blowtorch or torch, and a nitrogen cylinder for subsequent purging. Do not forget about personal protective equipment, as working with foam and metal can be hazardous.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! Working with live electrical wiring and heating elements is deadly.
It is also important to prepare a container to collect possible condensate or oil residues that may leak when the system depressurizes. If you plan to not only remove, but also replace the unit, make sure that the new one fully matches the geometric dimensions of the old one. In some cases, especially with models evaporator completely corresponds to the geometric dimensions of the old one. In some cases, especially with models Beko or LG, adapters or modification of the seat may be required, which should be taken care of in advance.
Tools and materials for dismantling
Quality and The speed of work completion directly depends on how correctly the tools are selected. For a standard removal procedure, you will need a basic set of plumbing supplies, but you may also need specific tools. For example, plastic mounting spatulas are ideal for working with plastic panel latches, as they minimize the risk of damage to the housing.
Special attention should be paid to tools for working with refrigerant and metal. If the system requires a complete recharge, you will need a pressure gauge station, a vacuum pump and a freon dosage scale. To cut pipes, use only a pipe cutter, as a hacksaw creates chips that can clog the capillary tube and damage the compressor. Soldering is made using solder with a melting point above 600 degrees and an appropriate flux.
List of necessary materials and tools for successful dismantling:
- 🔧 Set of screwdrivers and wrenches (including sockets for compressor nuts).
- 🔥 Gas torch with a cylinder and solder for copper-steel or copper-copper joints.
- 🧪 Pipe cutter, rimmer (for deburring) and rolling tool (if rolling is required).
- 🧤 Gloves, safety glasses and a respirator (when working with foam and soldering).
Do not forget that different models may require specific tools. For example, in some refrigerators Whirlpool or Haier fasteners may be hidden under decorative plugs, which require a thin spatula to open. Also have sealant or anti-vibration tape on hand if the design of the new unit requires their use during installation.
Disassembling the internal chamber and accessing the unit
The process of gaining access to the evaporator varies depending on the type of refrigerator: drip system or No Frost. In models with a drip system ("crying" evaporator), the heat exchanger is often located on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment or in the freezer compartment behind a plastic panel. In No Frost systems, the evaporator is hidden in a special compartment, usually behind the back wall of the freezer.
First, you need to empty the chamber of food, shelves and drawers. Then remove all visible fasteners: screws, bolts, plastic plugs. Be careful with plastic panels, as at low temperatures the plastic becomes brittle and can crack if handled carelessly. Carefully unclip the latches using a plastic spatula and gradually remove the panel, controlling the connection of the wires.
☑️ Procedure for disassembling the camera
Pay special attention to the electrical components mounted on the panels or near the evaporator. These could be temperature sensors, a lighting lamp, a fan (in No Frost) and defrost heating element wires. Before finally removing the panel, you must carefully disconnect the connectors. They often have locking latches that need to be pressed out. Remember or photograph the connection diagram so that during assembly you do not mix up the contacts, which can lead to a short circuit.
In some models, such as Stinol or older modifications Zil, access may be complicated by the presence of additional heat-insulating gaskets or fasteners hidden under the door seals. Carefully inspect the perimeter of the camera. If the panel cannot be removed, do not use force - look for hidden fasteners. After removing the panel, you will have a view of aluminum evaporatorwhich can be covered with frost or, conversely, be completely dry in case of leakage.
Technology for removing the evaporator in the No system Frost
In refrigerators with the No Frost system, the evaporator is a compact heat exchanger blown by a fan. Its dismantling requires special care due to its dense layout and the presence of a defrost system. The first step after removing the protective panel is to disconnect the defrost heating element and sensors, which are often mounted directly into the evaporator body or attached to it with clamps.
Next, you need to disconnect the tubes leading to the evaporator. Usually these are two copper tubes: one supplies liquid freon (capillary tube), the other removes gaseous (suction). If freon remains under pressure in the system, when the pipes are bitten off, a sharp release of gas will occur, so it is recommended to first saw the pipe in the soldering area and release the pressure, or work in a well-ventilated area. After bleeding, the tubes are cut or unsoldered from the filter-drier and compressor.
| System element | Function | Dismantling features |
|---|---|---|
| Defrost heating element | Heating the evaporator to remove ice | Often sticks to the body, requires careful bending of the petals |
| Defrost sensor | Heating temperature control | Located in the sleeve or on the surface, fragile |
| Fan | Cold air circulation | Attached to rubber vibration dampers, be careful with wires |
| Aluminum tubes | Heat transfer | Very soft, easily deformed if removed inaccurately |
Itself The evaporator in No Frost systems is often attached to the back wall of the chamber or to the unit body using screws or special clamps. In some designs it may be glued or even partially foamed. If you see that the heat exchanger is “recessed” into the polyurethane foam, you will have to carefully cut it out with a knife, being careful not to damage the inner plastic lining of the chamber. After releasing the fasteners, the assembly is removed out through the technical hole or from the side of the compressor compartment.
When installing a new evaporator in the No Frost system, it is critical to ensure tight contact of the defrost heating element with the surface of the heat exchanger. Often, special thermal paste or aluminum tape is used for this so that heat is effectively transferred to the fins and local overheating of the heating element does not occur. Also check the condition of the drainage system, since when replacing the evaporator, cleaning the condensate drainage channel is often required.
Removing a foamed evaporator in the refrigeration chamber
The most difficult case is replacing the evaporator, which is in a foamed state inside the wall of the refrigeration chamber. This is typical for many modern models Bosch, Siemens and other European brands. In such cases, the manufacturer does not provide for repairs, and replacement is made using the “floating evaporator” technology or by cutting out part of the wall.
The essence of the method is that from the inside of the chamber a part of the back wall (usually made of ABS plastic) is carefully cut off or broken out to gain access to the polyurethane foam. Then, using a knife or a special tool, the foam is removed layer by layer until the aluminum tubes of the old evaporator appear. This process requires patience and caution so as not to cut through the plastic and damage the tubes, which may be under pressure from residual gas.
What to do if the internal plastic is damaged?
If you cut right through the chamber wall when cutting out the foam, do not panic. The hole can be repaired using epoxy adhesive with reinforcing mesh or a special repair compound for plastic. The main thing is to ensure tightness so that moisture from the chamber does not get into the insulation, otherwise the refrigerator will no longer keep the cold.">
⚠️ Attention: When working with polyurethane foam, a lot of fine dust and volatile substances are formed. Be sure to use a respirator and organize a powerful exhaust hood or work with an open window.
After removing the old one a new coil is installed in its place ("die"), which is attached to the inner wall of the chamber using special clamps, screws, or simply pressed with a lid. The tubes of the new evaporator are led out through technological holes in the refrigerator body, usually to the compressor area. It is important that the new heat exchanger fits tightly to the rear wall of the chamber for effective heat transfer. aluminum evaporator (“die”), which is attached to the inner wall of the chamber using special clamps, screws, or simply pressed with a lid. The tubes of the new evaporator are led out through technological holes in the refrigerator body, usually to the compressor area. It is important that the new heat exchanger fits tightly against the back wall of the chamber for efficient heat transfer.
The final stage of this section of work is to restore the tightness and appearance of the chamber. The cutout area is covered with a sheet of food-grade aluminum, stainless steel or durable plastic, which is glued around the perimeter with food-grade sealant. The joints are carefully sealed to prevent moisture from entering. start soldering the tubes and evacuating the system.
Soldering, evacuation and filling with refrigerant
After successfully dismantling the old and installing the new evaporator, the most important stage begins - connecting the tubes. The ends of the copper pipes are cleaned, tinned and connected by soldering. When working with aluminum tubes of the new evaporator and With copper pipes of the refrigerator, it is necessary to use special solders and fluxes for soldering aluminum with copper, since conventional soldering will not take them.
After soldering all connections, the system must be checked for leaks. To do this, nitrogen is pumped into the circuit under pressure (usually 10-15 atmospheres) and left for several hours or days. If the pressure gauge shows a drop in pressure. there is a fistula somewhere, and the search for a leak continues. If the pressure is maintained, the nitrogen is released, and the evacuation process begins.
Evacuation is carried out by a vacuum pump connected to the service pipe. This allows air and moisture vapor to be removed from the system. The evacuation time depends on the pump power and the length of the circuit, but is usually at least 30 minutes. After reaching a deep vacuum, the valve of the pressure gauge station is closed. turns off, and the system is checked for “holding a vacuum” for 15-20 minutes.
The final step is to fill with refrigerant. The type of freon (R134a, R600a) and its quantity are indicated on the compressor nameplate or on the inside wall of the refrigerator. It is better to fill it with a scale, monitoring the mass of the loaded gas. For R600a freon. (isobutane) is especially critical, since it is explosive and its quantity in the system is very small (less than 100 grams). After refueling, the refrigerator turns on, and the master controls the operation by the compressor current and the temperature at the outlet of the condenser.
Frequent errors and assembly tips
Assembling a refrigerator after replacing the evaporator is a process in which it is also possible. make fatal mistakes. One of the most common is poor fit of the new evaporator to the chamber wall. If there is an air gap between the aluminum and the wall, the cooling efficiency will drop sharply, the compressor will work without stopping, trying to gain temperature, which will lead to its overheating and failure. Use heat-conducting paste or tight clamping strips.
Another mistake is careless handling of the wires. When installing the panels back, it is easy to pinch the sensor or fan wiring. This can lead to a short circuit or open circuit. Always check the integrity of the wires and their insulation before final installation of the plastic casings. Make sure that the wires do not touch the hot discharge pipes or the compressor.
Tips for successful assembly:
- 🧊 Make sure that the drainage hole for melt water is not clogged with foam or debris.
- 🔌 Check the operation of all sensors and the fan before installing decorative panels.
- 🔩 Do not overtighten the screws securing the plastic, so as not to break the threads in the soft material.
- 🧹 Carefully remove all debris, cuttings of pipes and pieces of insulation from under the refrigerator.
After complete assembly, do not rush to load the products. Let the refrigerator run idle for several hours to make sure the temperature is stable and there is no extraneous noise. Only after making sure that all systems are working properly can you consider repairs. completed.
Is it possible to replace the evaporator with an analogue from another model?
Yes, this is possible, but it requires careful selection of the geometric dimensions and thermal power. If the new evaporator is too small, the refrigerator will not be able to reach the desired temperature. If it is too large, installation problems may arise.
How long does it take to replace an evaporator?
For an experienced technician, the procedure takes from 2 to 4 hours, including diagnostics, dismantling, soldering, vacuuming and refilling. For a beginner doing this for the first time, the process can take a whole day, especially if there are difficulties with access to the unit.
Why after replacement. evaporator, the refrigerator does not freeze?
There may be several reasons: poor-quality soldering (freon leakage), insufficient evacuation (air lock), blockage of the capillary tube with debris during soldering, or a compressor malfunction that was not diagnosed initially.