Refrigerators Liebherr are deservedly considered the standard of reliability in the household appliances industry, but even the most advanced mechanisms are subject to wear. When the unit stops cooling, hums or makes intermittent sounds, compressoris often the culprit. Replacing this unit is one of the most difficult repair procedures, requiring not only technical knowledge, but also specialized tools.
Owners of premium equipment often wonder whether it is worth undertaking independent dismantling or whether it is better to call a specialist. The answer depends on your qualifications: the process requires working with copper pipes, soldering and observing safety precautions when working with refrigerants. Incorrect actions can lead to complete breakdown of the cooling system.
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm for removing the compressor from the refrigerator Liebherr. We will pay special attention to the nuances of unsoldering tubes, methods for removing old oil and the rules for preparing a new unit for installation in order to minimize risks during the subsequent start-up of the system.
Fault diagnosis and workplace preparation
Before proceeding with physical dismantling, you need to make sure that the problem lies specifically in the compressor. Often, symptoms similar to motor failure occur due to malfunctions in the start relay or thermostat. If the diagnostics confirmed that motor-compressor does not start or is overheating, it needs to be replaced.
Organizing the workspace is a critical stage. You will need a clear area near the refrigerator, good lighting and access to ventilation. Remember that when dismantling, you may need to tilt the equipment, so the floor must be protected from scratches, and the space must be free from foreign objects.
For work, you will need a specific set of tools, without which high-quality repairs are impossible. The use of improvised means often leads to damage to copper lines or leaky connections.
- 🛠️ Burner with an oxygen-propane mixture or a specialized soldering iron for hard solders.
- 🔧 Set of pipe cutters, rolling and cleaning brushes copper.
- 🧤 Protective gloves, glasses and a respirator for working with refrigerants.
- 🔦 A powerful flashlight for inspecting hard-to-reach areas in the compressor niche.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator Liebherr from the power supply. Working with electrical wiring and a compressor under voltage is deadly.
Safety precautions when working with refrigerants
Modern refrigerators Liebherr can work on different types of refrigerants, including isobutane (R600a) and freon (R134a). Isobutane is an explosive gas, so if the system is not sealed in a confined space, there is a risk of fire. It is strictly forbidden to use open fire if there is a suspicion of a large volume of gas leaking.
When working with any refrigerants, it is necessary to ensure forced or natural ventilation of the room. Gases are heavier than air and can accumulate at the bottom, displacing oxygen. If you smell a strong chemical odor, stop work immediately and ventilate the room.
Particular attention should be paid to the eyes and skin of the hands. Liquid refrigerant causes instant frostbite upon contact with the body. Use safety glasses and thick gloves at all stages of dismantling.
Access to the compressor compartment and unsoldering of pipes
U refrigerators Liebherr the compressor is usually located in the lower rear part of the housing. To gain access, you must remove the protective cover, which can be secured with latches or screws. Some models may require partial disassembly of the rear panel or removal of the base.
Once you gain access, you will see the compressor, condenser and piping system. The first step is to bleed off any remaining refrigerant. This is done through a process fitting or by carefully cutting the thinnest tube (usually a capillary or outlet). After the gas has escaped, you can proceed to unsoldering connections.
Heat the junction of the tube and the compressor fitting with a burner evenly. Do not hold the flame at one point for too long, so as not to melt the fitting itself or burn out the copper. As soon as the solder becomes soft, carefully move the tube to the side.
| Tube type | Diameter (approximate) | Desoldering feature | Where it leads |
|---|---|---|---|
| Discharge | Thin (~6 mm) | High pressure, neat | Condenser |
| Suction | Thick (~8-10 mm) | Often with thermal insulation | Evaporator |
| Filling station | Very thin | Soldered at the end | Service port |
It is important not to damage adjacent tubes and electrical wires that may pass in close proximity. If the wire insulation has melted or become brittle over time, it must be replaced before installing a new unit.
What to do if the tube breaks at the base?
If the copper tube breaks off too close to the case or capacitor, do not try to solder "on the fly". Use a pipe cutter to cut the damaged section straight, and extend the pipe with a new piece of copper of the same diameter using a coupling.
Removing the old compressor
After disconnecting all copper lines, you must turn off the electrical part. Remove the plastic casing containing the start relay and thermal relay. Carefully disconnect the wiring block, having previously photographed the connection diagram, since the color marking may differ for different models. Liebherr may vary.
The compressor is secured to the frame using four shock-absorbing nuts or bolts. They may be rusty or over-tightened. Use wrenches with a long handle, but avoid sharp jerks so as not to damage the bases of the fastenings on the motor body itself.
When unscrewing the nuts, hold the compressor body with your other hand, as it has significant weight and can fall, damaging the floor or its own pipes. After removing the fasteners, remove the unit from the niche.
- 📸 Take a photo of the location of the tubes and wires before complete removal.
- 🧱 Place thick cloth or cardboard under the compressor when removing.
- 🔩 Place all fasteners in a separate container so as not to lose.
- 🧹 Clean the niche from dust and old oil before installing a new unit.
⚠️ Attention: Never transport or store the removed compressor upside down. This can lead to oil leakage into the circulation circuit, which complicates future repairs.
Preparing a new compressor for installation
The new compressor for Liebherr is supplied with plugs on the pipes. They should only be removed at the last moment before soldering to prevent moisture and air from entering the system. Moisture is the main enemy of the refrigeration circuit; it freezes in the capillary and forms an ice plug.
Before installation, it is necessary to check the condition of the mounting rubber washers (vibration dampers). If the old ones have become unusable, use the new ones that come with the motor. This will ensure quiet operation of the unit and no vibration of the housing.
An important step is purging the system with nitrogen. This allows any remaining old oil and moisture to be forced out of the condenser and evaporator. Purge is carried out under pressure, and therefore requires a nitrogen cylinder and a reducer.
☑️ Preparation for soldering a new unit
Soldering connections and evacuating the system
Installation of a new compressor is carried out in the reverse order. Insert the tubes into the fittings with a small gap (2-3 mm) to allow solder to flow. Heat the joint and add a bar of solder. A high-quality seam should be smooth and shiny, without holes or sagging.
After soldering all connections, the system must be vacuumized. For this, a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge station are used. The process of removing air and moisture should last at least 30-40 minutes until a deep vacuum is achieved.
Only after successful evacuation is the refrigerant charged. The amount of freon or isobutane is strictly regulated by the manufacturer and is indicated on a technical sticker inside the refrigerator or on the compressor. Overfilling or underfilling will lead to incorrect operation.
To control the quality of soldering, you can use a soap solution by applying it to the seams and observing the appearance of bubbles under nitrogen pressure.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics of the filling (type of gas, weight, type of oil) may vary depending on the specific series Liebherr. Always check the data with the factory markings on your device, and not just with the compressor data sheet.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to replace a Liebherr compressor with an analogue from another company?
Technically, this is possible if the mounting dimensions, power and type of refrigerant are the same. However, original compressors Liebherr (often made by Secop or Danfoss) are optimally selected for the specific heating output of the evaporator. Installing an analogue may lead to increased noise or insufficient cooling.
Is it necessary to flush the system when replacing a compressor?
Flushing is required if the old compressor burned out ("jammed" with the release of combustion products) or if there was a lot of moisture in the system. Washing is performed with a special solvent or nitrogen under pressure. If the compressor simply stops turning on without a short circuit, a thorough purge with nitrogen is sufficient.
Why does the refrigerator not freeze after replacing the compressor?
The most likely reasons: poor-quality soldering (the passage in the tube is narrowed), the presence of moisture in the system (ice plug), insufficient amount of refrigerant or blockage in the filter drier. It is also worth checking the operation of the thermostat.
Which solder is best to use for copper tubes?
For copper-copper connections, it is best to use phosphorus-containing solders (for example, BCuP), which do not require flux. To connect copper-brass or copper-steel (fittings), silver solder is required using a flux that is resistant to high temperatures.