Failure of the compressor is one of the most serious problems with which the owner of a refrigerator may encounter Stinol. This unit is the heart of the refrigeration system, ensuring the circulation of refrigerant and maintaining the required temperature in the chambers. When the unit stops starting, hums but does not cool, or the protective relay trips, it often becomes necessary to replace it. Independent dismantling requires not only technical skills, but also strict adherence to safety measures.
Before starting work, you need to understand that replacement compressor is a complex technical process associated with the risk of electric shock and working with gas under pressure. In models Stinol 101, Stinol 103 and other modifications, the procedure has its own nuances, depending on the year of manufacture and the type of refrigerant used. Proper preparation and the availability of special tools are the key to successful repair.
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will allow you to carefully remove the faulty motor-compressor. We will pay special attention to preparing the workplace, disconnecting pipelines and working with the electrical part. Remember that after dismantling the old unit, the system is considered open, and moisture entering the tubes is unacceptable.
Necessary tools and precautions
Work to replace the compressor in refrigerators Stinol belongs to the category of increased complexity. To complete it, you will need a specific set of tools that are rarely found in a standard home drawer. The main device is a pipe cutter, which allows you to make an even cut of copper tubes without the formation of chips that can clog the system.
You will also need a gas torch with solder if you plan to solder new connections, or special crimp couplings for quick joining. Don't forget about pliers, a set of screwdrivers, side cutters and a multimeter for checking electrical circuits. The most important safety element is safety glasses and gloves.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. The plug must be removed from the socket and access to it is blocked to prevent accidental switching on of voltage during disassembly.
Be careful when working with copper tubes and soldering. Copper has a high thermal conductivity, and heat can spread to the plastic elements of the case or the insulation of the wires. Use asbestos gaskets or damp rags to protect adjacent components from the open flame of the burner.
Access to the engine compartment and preparation
In brand refrigerators Stinol the compressor is traditionally located in the lower rear part of the unit. To access it, you need to move the refrigerator away from the wall, ensuring free access from all sides. It is recommended to cover the floor with cardboard or rags, since during dismantling residual oil may leak out of the system.
Remove the rear metal cover of the engine compartment. It is usually secured with four screws or latches, depending on the specific modification. In some models Stinol the cover may be glued with sealant, which will require careful cutting around the perimeter with a knife.
After removing the cover, you will have a view of the compressor, capacitor (black coil) and start-up relay. Inspect the space carefully. Dust and dirt often accumulate at the bottom of the niche, which can interfere with work. Remove unnecessary objects to ensure good visibility and access to the tubes.
If rust or signs of corrosion are visible on the tubes, proceed with extreme caution. Old copper can become brittle. In models produced in the 90s and early 2000s, the metal often becomes thinner, and careless movement can lead to breakage of the tubes in an unpredictable place.
Compressor electrical connection diagram
Before cutting the tubes, it is necessary to disconnect the electrical part. At the end of the compressor there is a start-protection relay and a thermostat. Remove the plastic casing that protects the contacts. Inside you will see a terminal block and wires coming from the power cord and relay.
Remove the start relay. It simply slides onto the three contact pins of the compressor. Gently rock it from side to side and lift it down. Pay attention to the marking of the relay - to replace the compressor, you may need to install a new relay corresponding to the power of the new motor.
- 🔌 Power wire: usually has a color marking (brown, blue or black) and is supplied directly or through the terminal block.
- 🛡️ Protective relay: responsible for turning off the power when overheating or overload current.
- 🚀 Starting relay: short-term connects the starting winding to start the engine.
- 🌍 Grounding: yellow-green wire that can be screwed to the compressor housing or frame refrigerator.
Disconnect the wires from the terminal box or cut them if they are in a common braid and do not have connectors. Be sure to mark the wires if you plan to reuse them, although when replacing a compressor it is most often recommended to change the electrical wiring.
Check the integrity of the windings with a multimeter before final dismantling the old unit to ensure the nature of the fault. The resistance between the contacts should be within normal limits (usually from 10 to 30 Ohms), and there should be no breakdown to the housing.
Disconnecting the refrigerant pipelines
This is the most critical stage that requires care. The system is charged with refrigerant, and although in older models Stinol is used freon R12 or R134a in small quantities, it is not recommended to release it into the room. Professionals use freon collection stations, but at home they often do things differently.
Find a place for the cut. It is best to have a snack or saw through the pipes at a distance of 10-15 cm from the compressor. This will allow you to maintain the length of the standard pipes for subsequent soldering of the new compressor. Use a pipe cutter or sharp side cutters for soft pipes.
⚠️ Attention: When cutting the pipes, you may hear a hiss of escaping gas. Ensure good ventilation of the room. Do not inhale refrigerant vapors, as they displace oxygen.
First cut the capillary tube (thin), then the discharge (thick, going to the condenser) and suction (thick, coming from the evaporator). Be consistent. If soldering is used, heat the joint with a torch until the solder melts and quickly remove the compressor.
Danger of open flame
When working with a torch near the refrigerator, there is always a risk of igniting the insulation of wires or plastic parts. Keep a fire extinguisher or a container of water at hand, and insulate the soldering area with non-flammable material.
After disconnecting all three tubes, the compressor becomes free. However, it is still attached to the frame of the refrigerator. Do not pull sharply on the tubes - they may burst in another place, which will complicate repairs.
Removing the compressor from the refrigerator frame
The compressor in refrigerators Stinol is attached to a metal frame (chassis) using four bolts with rubber bushings. These bushings serve as shock absorbers that dampen the vibration of a running engine. To unscrew them, you will need a wrench or socket of the appropriate size (usually 10 or 12 mm).
The unscrewing process can be difficult due to corrosion or factory paint. If the bolts do not budge, use a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. Do not use excessive force so as not to strip the thread or break the mounting ear on the compressor itself.
| Fastening element | Connection type | Tool | Nuances |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bottom bolts | Threaded (through) | Wrench 10-12 mm | Often sour and require lubrication |
| Rubber bushings | Interference fit | Pliers | Save for a new compressor |
| Spring washers | Lock | Pliers | Do not lose during disassembly |
After all four bolts are unscrewed, the compressor can still be held on due to the weight and friction of the bushings. Gently loosen it. If the bushings remain on the frame, remove them with pliers and put them on the new compressor or use the complete ones if they come with the new unit.
Remove the compressor with both hands, as it is quite heavy (about 10 kg). Sudden movements may damage the remaining condenser or evaporator tubes. Lay the removed unit on its side, being careful that oil does not leak out through the open fittings.
☑️ Dismantling is complete
Common mistakes when removing the compressor
One of the common mistakes is neglect of cleanliness in the system. When air is open, moisture gets inside the tubes. In the system, moisture combines with oil, forming acid, which destroys the windings of the new compressor from the inside. Therefore, the open ends of the tubes must be immediately plugged with rubber stoppers or sealed. with freon moisture combines with oil to form acid, which destroys the windings of the new compressor from the inside. Therefore, the open ends of the tubes must be immediately plugged with rubber stoppers or sealed.
Another mistake is damage to the discharge tube when trying to bend it for convenience. After prolonged use, copper becomes “tired” and breaks easily at the base. If you break the condenser tube, the repair will become significantly more complicated and will require extension.
Some repairmen forget to check the condition of the condenser (the black radiator at the back) for leaks. If the old compressor burned out and released oil into the system, contaminated oil could be left in the condenser. Simply replacing the compressor without flushing the system in this case will lead to rapid failure of the new unit.
⚠️ Attention: Never turn on a new compressor if the system is not evacuated. Working “dry” or with air inside will instantly disable expensive equipment.
It is also a mistake to assume that all compressors are interchangeable. Although the mounting dimensions are often standard, the performance (power) must correspond to the volume of the chambers. Installing a more powerful motor will lead to frequent switching on and off, and a weak one will lead to a lack of cold. Stinol often standard, performance (power) must correspond to the volume of the chambers. Installing a more powerful motor will lead to frequent switching on and off, and a weak one will lead to a lack of cold.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Is it possible to replace the Stinol compressor with an analogue from another brand?
Yes, it is possible. Compressors from brands such as Aspera, Secop (formerly Danfoss) or Atlantare often suitable as replacements. The main thing is the power (in watts or BTU), the type of refrigerant and the overall dimensions so that it fits on standard mounts.
Do you need to solder the tubes or can you use couplings?
For professional and durable repairs, hard soldering is recommended. However, there are special crimp couplings (LockRing or analogues) that allow you to connect the tubes without fire. They are reliable, but require precise selection of the tube diameter.
How much does it cost to replace a compressor yourself?
The cost consists of the price of a new compressor (usually from 4,000 to 8,000 rubles) and consumables (gas, solder, filter drier). If you do not have tools (burner, vacuum cleaner), purchasing or renting them will significantly increase costs.
Why may a new compressor not start after replacement?
There may be several reasons: incorrect connection of the start relay, lack of freon, blockage in the capillary tube or poor-quality evacuation of the system. It is also possible that the new starting relay does not match the parameters of the installed motor.