Every owner of a new household appliance is faced with the question of not only placing the unit in the kitchen, but also about its proper preparation for the first start. Transport bolts is a key element that protects internal mechanisms from vibration and shock during cargo delivery. Their presence in the design is provided by the manufacturer for fixing moving parts, such as compressor or frame.
However, if you ignore the need to dismantle these elements, the consequences can be fatal for the device. Operating the refrigerator with the transport locks tightened leads to destruction of the shock absorbers and failure of the motor within the first hours of operation. Therefore, it is important to know how to remove the mounting bolts from the refrigerator without damaging the case or losing important parts.
In this article we will analyze all the nuances of the process: from preparing the necessary tools to the intricacies of working with rusty or stuck joints. You will learn the difference between shipping locks and compressor mounting fasteners and why they should not be confused. A competent approach will ensure long and quiet operation of your equipment.
Difference between transport bolts and mounting fasteners
Many users mistakenly believe that all bolts found on the back wall or inside the camera must be unscrewed unconditionally. This is wrong. There is a clear division into shipping locks, which are removed forever, and mounting fasteners, which hold the compressor on the frame. Confusion about these concepts can lead to serious damage.
Shipping bolts are usually located on the outer rear panel or at the bottom of the case. They fix the springs or rubber shock absorbers on which the motor-compressor is suspended. Their task is to firmly fix the knot during transportation. Once installed, their function is completely lost and they become a source of strong vibration.
⚠️ Attention: Never remove the bolts that secure the compressor itself to the metal frame or brackets inside the housing. These elements are load-bearing and support the weight of the motor. Removing them will cause the compressor to fall and the pipes to break.
Mounting fasteners, on the contrary, must remain in place. They ensure the tightness of the system and the correct position of the motor relative to the capacitor. If you are in doubt which bolt is in front of you, it is better to check the technical documentation of the model Indesit, LG or Atlant, since designs may differ.
How to distinguish bolts visually?
Shipping bolts often have bright red or yellow markings, plastic tips or are located symmetrically at the corners of the rear wall. The compressor mounting bolts are usually hidden under the casing or located directly on the motor feet.
Required tools for dismantling
Sophisticated professional equipment is not required to successfully complete the task. In most cases, a standard DIY kit is sufficient. The main thing is to choose a tool of the appropriate size so as not to tear off the edges of the heads, which is especially important for budget models.
The main tool will be an open-end or socket wrench. Often manufacturers use metric sizes such as 10, 12 or 13 mm. In some cases, especially in models Bosch or Siemens, a socket head with an extension may be required to access hard-to-reach places.
- 🔧 A set of open-end wrenches (from 8 to 14 mm) is the main tool for the job.
- 🔦 A powerful flashlight - to illuminate the lower part of the unit, where it is often dark.
- 🧤 Protective gloves - to avoid cutting your hands on the sharp edges of the metal grill.
- 🪛 Flat-head screwdriver - may be needed to remove decorative plugs.
If the bolts have not been touched for a long time or the equipment has been exposed to impact moisture, the metal could oxidize. In this case, the standard kit may not be enough, and the use of penetrating lubricant will be required. You should not make excessive efforts right away; it is better to prepare a chemical assistant.
Preparing the refrigerator for removing fasteners
Safety is the number one priority when handling any household appliances. Before you start unscrewing any elements, you must make sure that the unit is completely de-energized. This eliminates the risk of a short circuit due to accidental damage to the wiring, which often runs near the fastening points.
The refrigerator must be moved away from the wall, ensuring free access from all sides, especially to the rear panel. The distance should be sufficient so that you can comfortably operate the key without resting your face on the hot condenser grille. It is advisable to cover the floor with cardboard or old cloth.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
If the model is heavy and has a system No Frost, make sure that it is stable on the floor. When working with the lower part, sometimes it is necessary to slightly tilt the unit, so having an assistant will not be amiss. It is also worth checking whether the hoses or wires are not kinked when the equipment is moved.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to remove the bolts while the refrigerator is standing close to a wall or corner. A sudden movement of the key can lead to a hit on the plaster or damage to the rear radiator grille.
Step-by-step instructions: how to unscrew the bolts
The dismantling process depends on the specific design, but the general algorithm of actions is the same for most brands, be it Samsung, Haier or Stinol. First you need to localize the fixation points. Usually there are two or four of them, they are located symmetrically on the sides of the compressor.
Insert the wrench into the head of the bolt and start rotating counterclockwise. If the thread is tight, do not jerk. It's better to make a few careful turns back and forth to get the threads out of place. After the bolt comes loose, unscrew it completely until it comes out of the thread.
| Type of fastening | Location | Action | Save? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Transportation | Rear, fixes the springs | Unscrew completely | No (throw away) |
| Mounting (compressor) | On the motor feet | Not touch | Yes (required) |
| Grill fastening | Along the perimeter of the rear wall | Do not touch unnecessarily | Yes |
| Support legs | Bottom front | Adjust | Yes |
After removing the bolts, inspect the holes. Some models come with plastic plugs that need to be used to close the resulting voids. This will prevent dust and moisture from getting inside the case, and will also reduce the noise level.
What to do if the bolt is stuck or rusted
The situation when metal “sticks” occurs often, especially if the equipment has been in a warehouse for a long time in a damp room or was produced several years ago. An attempt to forcefully tear off such a bolt with a wrench is almost guaranteed to lead to licking of the edges or breakage of the tool.
The first step should be the use of specialized penetrating lubricants, such as WD-40 or their analogues. Apply liquid liberally to the threaded joint and leave for 15-20 minutes. The chemical composition will dissolve the oxides and facilitate rotation.
- 🌡️ Heating - gently heating the bolt with a hair dryer can expand the metal and destroy rust.
- 🔨 Tapping - light blows with a hammer on the head (through the spacer) create vibration, which helps the lubricant penetrate deeper.
- 🔄 Swinging - try to twist the bolt not continuously, but in short jerks in both directions.
If none of the methods helps, and you understand that the efforts are becoming critical, it is better to stop. Excessive pressure can break the pin itself inside the case, and then removing the fragment will require drilling, which is dangerous near the refrigeration circuit.
Frequent errors during dismantling
One of the most common mistakes is the loss of removed parts. Bolts, washers and plastic bushings often fall behind the refrigerator and get lost in the depths. If after some time the equipment has to be transported again, the absence of these elements may become a problem.
Another mistake is the incorrect sequence of actions when working with paired bolts. Sometimes manufacturers recommend loosening them alternately to avoid frame distortion, although this is less critical for transport clamps than for mounting ones. However, accuracy will not hurt.
Some users forget to check the horizontal installation after removing the fasteners. If the refrigerator is freed from the transport locks, it may stand up crookedly, which will lead to improper operation of the door or noise. Always use a spirit level.
⚠️ Attention: Do not throw removed shipping bolts directly into the trash. Hide them in a bag and tape them to the back wall or put them in a file drawer. When you move, you will need them again.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Can I turn on the refrigerator if I forgot to remove the shipping bolts?
Absolutely not. Operating the compressor with the transport clamps clamped will lead to severe vibration, noise and rapid destruction of the motor mount. Turn on the equipment only after complete dismantling of all transport elements.
Is it necessary to lubricate the threads before tightening the bolts during repeated transportation?
Yes, this is a good practice. A light lubrication with graphite grease or even machine oil will prevent corrosion and make them easier to remove next time. However, do not use grease, which can thicken in the cold.
What should you do if, after removing the bolts, the refrigerator vibrates strongly?
Vibration can be caused not only by the bolts. Check that the unit is level. Adjust the front legs. If the vibration remains, the compressor may be touching the walls of the housing or the condenser pipes - carefully bend them.
Where are the shipping bolts stored after purchase?
Usually they are already screwed into the holes on the rear panel. Sometimes they can be found in a package with documents lying inside the refrigerator compartment, or in a separate compartment of foam packaging.