The situation when the refrigerator stops freezing, and the compressor either hums but does not start, or clicks and immediately goes silent, is familiar to many equipment owners. In most cases, the reason lies in the failure of the starting relay, which is responsible for starting the engine. To diagnose or replace this part, the user must access the unit hidden behind a plastic protective cover at the lower rear of the unit. The process of removing this cover seems elementary, but the design of refrigerators Atlant has its own nuances, ignoring which can lead to damage to the fasteners or the wiring itself.
Improper handling of the protective casing often becomes the reason that even a serviceable new relay does not work or, worse, a short circuit occurs short circuit The owner of the equipment must understand that the plastic box covering the compressor group not only performs an aesthetic function, but also protects electrical contacts from dust, moisture and mechanical damage. Before proceeding with dismantling, it is necessary to turn off the power to the device and prepare the working tool. In this article, we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will allow you to safely remove the cover, inspect the unit and correctly install the elements back.
It is worth noting that in different series of refrigerators Atlant —be it classic two-chamber models or modern units with the No Frost system—the mounting method may differ slightly. In some places screws are used, and in others only plastic latches are used, which require careful opening. Our goal is to help you avoid common mistakes, such as breaking off mounting lugs or damaging compressor tubes due to careless movements. Carefully studying the instructions before starting work will save you time and nerves.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
The first and most important step is to ensure safety, since the work will be carried out with electrical equipment. You need to completely disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical network by removing the plug from the socket. You should not rely only on temperature controls or the power button, if the model has one. After disconnecting, move the unit away from the wall to provide clear access to the rear wall. It is best to carry out work in good lighting, so make sure you have a portable lamp or flashlight in advance.
To remove the relay cover and carry out further manipulations, you will need a minimum set of tools that most men have in their homes. The main tool will be a screwdriver, but its type depends on the specific model of your refrigerator. In older models, screws for a slotted screwdriver are often found, while in new series Atlant a Phillips slot is predominantly used. It would also be useful to have pliers with thin jaws for working with clamps or clamps.
- 🔧 Phillips screwdriver (PH2) - the main tool for most screw connections.
- 🔧 Flat screwdriver (slotted) - useful for careful prying plastic latches.
- 🧤 Work gloves - will protect your hands from sharp metal edges and possible dirt in the lower part of the unit.
- 🔦 Flashlight or portable lamp - for high-quality illumination of a darkened compressor niche.
Pay special attention to cleanliness in the work area works The lower part of the refrigerator is a place where dust, fluff and sometimes traces of insect activity accumulate. Before removing the cover, it is advisable to vacuum the radiator grille and the area around the compressor. Debris getting inside an open relay or on the contacts can ruin all repair efforts. If you plan not only to remove the cover, but also to replace the part, prepare a container for small parts so as not to lose screws on the floor.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to remove the cover or perform any manipulations with the electrical part of a plugged-in refrigerator. Even briefly touching live parts can cause serious injury. Make sure that the plug is unplugged from the socket before handling the tool.
After preparing the tools and ensuring access to the back wall, inspect the fasteners. In some models Atlant the compressor compartment cover can be additionally secured with tape or seals if the device was under warranty service. In this case, the integrity of the factory seals will be compromised, which is important to consider if the warranty period has not yet expired. For self-repair, this is not critical, but to maintain warranty rights, it is better to call a specialist.
Design features of compressor protection in different models
Refrigerators of the Belarusian manufacturer Atlant have been produced for several decades, and during this time the design of protective casings has undergone changes. Understanding what modification you are dealing with will help you choose the right dismantling strategy. Conventionally, all models can be divided into two large groups: units with open access to the relay and devices where the relay is hidden under the common cover of the compressor compartment. In the second case, which is more common, you have to remove a large plastic box.
In modern series, such as Atlant XM-4000 or XM-6000, the protective casing is made of durable plastic and is attached to a combination of screws and latches. The design is designed to minimize noise and prevent accidental contact with hot compressor parts. The cover fits tightly around the motor, so when removing it, it is important not to use excessive force, which can lead to cracks. Older models, for example, series MHM-1700often had a simpler design with a screw fastening around the perimeter.
The key element you need to find is the starting relay. It is located directly on the compressor shaft, in its lower or side part. In some configurations, access to it is blocked not only by the outer cover, but also by an additional metal or plastic cup. Marking parts and type of fastening may vary depending on the year of manufacture. If you see that the cover is held only by friction-fit (an interference fit), this is typical for older or budget modifications.
It is also important to consider the location of the condenser and tubes. In models with a foamed condenser (located in the walls of the case), the rear grille is open, and the compressor cover is easier to remove. In models where the condenser is moved back in the form of a coil, the cover may have a complex shape that goes around the tubes. Careless movement can bend the thin copper tubes, resulting in a refrigerant leak and costly repairs.
Step-by-step instructions: how to remove the protective cover
The process of dismantling the protective casing requires consistency and accuracy. Start by visually inspecting the perimeter of the lid. Find all attachment points. In most cases there are four of them: two screws on the top or side and fixation on the bottom on the guides. If you find screws, use the appropriate screwdriver to remove them counterclockwise. Place the fasteners in a prepared container so that they do not get lost.
After removing the screws, do not try to immediately pull the cover towards you. It can be held on the lower grooves or additional latches. Take a flathead screwdriver and wrap the blade in a soft cloth or use a plastic spatula to avoid damaging the plastic. Carefully pry the cover at the bottom, slightly moving it away from the compressor housing. Movements should be progressive, without jerking. If the cover does not budge, check whether there is another hidden screw left; often it can be located under the sticker or in a recess.
☑️ Algorithm for removing the cover
When the cover is removed, you will have a view of the compressor, capacitor and that same starting relay At this stage, it is important to fix the position of the wires and cables. Take a photo of the assembly on your phone - this will help with reassembly if you forget exactly how the cables were laid. The relay is usually placed on three contact pins of the compressor and secured with a metal bracket or plastic clip.
If your goal is to replace the relay, then after removing the general cover you will need to remove the fixing bracket. It can be spring or screw. To remove the spring clip, use pliers, gently prying the ends apart. After this, the relay can be easily removed from the contacts. Be careful: there is a ceramic or plastic cup inside the relay that can crumble if dropped.
⚠️ Attention: When removing the cover, watch the position of the copper tubes coming from the compressor. They are filled with freon and are under pressure. Excessive bending or fracture of the tube will lead to depressurization of the system. If you notice traces of oil on the tubes or compressor housing, this may indicate microcracks - be especially careful.
In some cases, the cover may be glued to sealant or vibration-proof tape, especially if the refrigerator has previously been repaired. In such a situation, you will need to carefully cut off the layer of sealant with a knife. After completing work on replacing the relay, before installing the cover back, make sure that all tools are removed from the work area and no foreign objects remain inside the casing.
Diagnostics and signs of a malfunction of the starting relay
After you have removed the cover and gained access to the relay, the question arises: does it need to be replaced? A visual inspection can provide a lot of information. First of all, pay attention to the appearance of the plastic relay housing. If traces of melting, soot or swelling are visible on it, then the part definitely requires replacement. Also a sign of a malfunction is the presence of cracks through which moisture could get inside.
The next diagnostic stage is checking the internal filling. Carefully open the relay housing (it usually consists of two halves held together by latches). Inside you will find a coil, contacts and a posistor (thermistor). If the posistor has crumbled or turned black, this is a sure sign that the relay is not working. Also check the condition of the contacts: they should be clean, free of oxides and carbon deposits. If the contacts are burnt, you can try to clean them with fine sandpaper, but it is better to replace the entire assembly.
There is a simple way to check the functionality of the relay, although it requires caution. You can shake the relay near your ear: if a ringing sound is heard inside, like from broken glass, it means that the posistor is destroyed and the part is faulty. A working relay should not make sounds when shaken. However, this method does not provide a 100% guarantee, so for accurate diagnosis it is better to use a multimeter.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Action |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor hums, but does not start | The piston group is jammed or the relay is faulty | Check the relay, ring the windings |
| A click is heard, then silence | The starting relay or thermal relay has burned out | Replace the starting relay |
| The refrigerator turns on and immediately turns off | Thermal protection is activated | Check the current consumption and the relay |
| The compressor is hot, but not works | Malfunction of the trigger mechanism | Diagnostics of relays and windings |
If a visual inspection and aural test do not give a clear answer, it is recommended to ring the contacts with a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. The resistance between the contacts must correspond to the rating specified in the technical documentation, or be close to zero (for closed contacts). The absence of resistance or, conversely, infinite resistance where there should be a circuit indicates a malfunction.
Is it possible to start a refrigerator without a relay?
Theoretically, you can start a compressor without a relay by applying voltage directly to the starting winding, but doing this is categorically not recommended in domestic conditions. This requires precise timing of the pulse and can lead to winding burnout or fire. Use this method only for a short-term check of the compressor by a technician.
Selecting a replacement and installing a new relay
If the diagnostics confirm a malfunction, you are faced with the task of choosing a new part. Relays for refrigerators Atlant come in different types, and it is important not to make a mistake with the markings. The most common relays are the series RT (starting) and P-1 (starting with a posistor). The key parameter is the compressor power, which is indicated on the label of the refrigerator itself or on the motor housing. An incorrectly selected relay may not start the engine or burn out after several cycles.
When purchasing, pay attention to the country of origin and the quality of the plastic. Original spare parts Atlant or proven analogues from European manufacturers (for example, Indesit, Danfoss assembled) last longer. Cheap Chinese analogues often have a low service life and can cause repeated breakdowns. Make sure that the number of contacts and their location match your sample.
Installation of a new relay is carried out in the reverse order of removal. First, we put the relay on the contact pins of the compressor until there is a characteristic click or stop. Then we fix it with a metal bracket or clamp. It is important that the relay sits tightly and does not dangle, since vibration during compressor operation can disrupt the contact. After this, we check the reliability of the connection by slightly shaking the part (without fanaticism).
- ✅ Matching markings - make sure that the number of the new part matches the number on the old relay.
- ✅ Orientation - the relay has the correct orientation (usually the "UP" marking or the arrow should face up).
- ✅ Fixation - check that the bracket securely holds the relay housing on the compressor.
- ✅ Contacts - make sure that the wires are connected to the correct terminals according to the diagram.
After installing the relay, you can proceed to installing the protective cover. Make sure that the wires are not pinched by the edges of the plastic or touching hot parts of the compressor. Secure the cover with screws and check the fit. If the design includes a rubber seal, check its condition and replace if necessary.
Frequent errors during dismantling and assembly
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes, let alone beginners. One of the most common mistakes is losing screws or replacing them with the wrong ones. Using self-tapping screws that are too long can puncture the compressor housing or damage the winding insulation, which is fatal to the unit. Always use original fasteners or their exact analogues in size and thread pitch.
The second common mistake is ignoring the condition of the wiring. While the cover is removed, be sure to inspect the wires for melted insulation or oxidation of the contacts. If you simply replace the relay but leave a burnt block, the new relay will also quickly fail. Clean the contacts or replace the connectors if possible.
The third error is related to the tightening force. Plastic, especially on older refrigerators, becomes brittle. By overtightening the screws that secure the lid, you risk breaking the plastic ears, after which the lid will no longer hold on. Tighten the screws until they stop by hand, then press lightly with a screwdriver, but without excessive force.
⚠️ Attention: If, while removing the cover, you accidentally damaged one of the copper tubes and heard the hiss of escaping gas, stop working immediately. Freon, although not toxic in small doses, displaces oxygen, and repairing the refrigerant circulation system requires special equipment and a license. In this case, call a professional technician.
Also, do not forget about cleanliness. Dust or metal shavings trapped inside the relay can cause a short circuit. Before final assembly, blow out the compressor compartment with compressed air or carefully remove dust with a dry brush. Cleanliness is the key to the durability of electrical contacts.
Questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator without a relay cover?
For a short time - yes, to check functionality. However, operation without a cover is not recommended. The cover protects the contacts from dust, moisture and insects, and also reduces noise levels. Without it, the relay can quickly fail due to contamination or oxidation.
Why does a new relay burn out after a few days?
There may be several reasons: the relay power is incorrectly selected, the compressor itself is faulty (turn-to-turn short circuit), or problems with the voltage in the network. Also, frequent combustion may indicate that the refrigerator is installed unevenly and the compressor is overloaded.
Where can you find the relay markings on the Atlant refrigerator?
The markings are usually applied to the white plastic body of the relay itself. To see it, it is not necessary to remove the relay from the compressor, just remove the protective compartment cover. Look for designations like RT, R-1, 100N or codes like 1741, 1750.
Is it necessary to change the thermal relay along with the starting one?
In most modern relays for Atlant the starting and thermal elements are combined in one housing. If you change the entire assembly, then you change both. If you have a separate system, it is advisable to check the thermal relay (tablet) and, if in doubt, replace it, since it is inexpensive.
How much does it cost to replace the relay in the service compared to self-repair?
Independent replacement will cost you only the cost of the part (from 500 to 1500 rubles depending on the model). The service will add to this amount the cost of the technician’s visit and work, which can increase the final check by 2-3 times. If you have minimal skills, self-repair is quite justified.