When your refrigerator Atlant stops freezing or starts making strange clicking sounds, the owner’s first reaction is often panic begins. However, in many cases, the problem lies in the failure of the start relay, a small but critical component of the compressor electrical circuit. Replacing or diagnosing this part does not always require calling a technician if you have basic skills in handling tools and follow safety precautions.
The process of removing the relay cover often becomes the first step in the chain of actions to restore the unit's functionality. The cover may be needed for visual inspection of contacts, checking the integrity of the coil, or completely replacing the unit. It is important to understand that starting relay is responsible for starting the compressor engine, and any manipulations with it require disconnecting the device from the power supply. Ignoring this rule can lead to serious electric shock.
In this article we will analyze in detail the design of the protective casing, methods for dismantling it on various models of refrigerators from the Belarusian manufacturer, and nuances that are often overlooked by beginners. You will learn how to correctly identify the type of fastening, what tools to prepare in advance, and what to look for when inspecting the inside of the mechanism. A competent approach to this stage of repair will save you time and money.
Design features of the Atlant starting relay
Before you start disassembling, you need to understand what kind of device you are dealing with. In refrigerators Atlant most often there are two types of starting relays: posistor and induction. PTC models, such as series RT-21 or RTK-S, have a plastic case, which can be solid or composite. Induction relays, often labeled as R-1 or RTP, usually have a more massive metal or plastic casing with a characteristic cover with latches or screws.
The relay cover performs a dual function: it protects the internal contacts from dust, moisture and oxidation, and also prevents a person from accidentally touching live parts under voltage. In older models of refrigerators, the lid could be fixed with a metal bracket, which covered the relay housing and was pressed against the compressor. In more modern units, engineers have switched to plastic latches, which simplifies maintenance, but requires care when opening so as not to break the fragile plastic.
Particular attention should be paid to markings. It is always marked factory indexon the outside of the cover or on the relay body itself. It is this code that is used to select a new part in the event of a malfunction. If you plan to simply remove the cover to clean the contacts, make sure you note the position of all the elements, as incorrect assembly may result in a short circuit.
⚠️ Warning: Never attempt to remove the relay cover while the compressor is still warm or has just been running. The temperature of metal parts can reach 80-90 degrees Celsius, which can lead to burns.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
To perform high-quality work on dismantling the relay cover, you do not need complex professional tools. However, using unsuitable items such as kitchen knives or screwdrivers with damaged blades may result in damage to the cabinet or injury. Preparation of the workplace also plays an important role: you will need good lighting in the compressor area, since the relay is located at the bottom of the unit, often in a darkened space.
A basic set of tools includes a flat-head screwdriver with a blade width of 3-5 mm, which will be needed to bend the latches, and a Phillips screwdriver to remove screws, if present. It is also recommended to have a multimeter on hand for subsequent diagnostics, needle-nose pliers and, possibly, a flashlight. If the relay is old and the plastic has become brittle, it is useful to prepare a container with warm water to soften contaminants, but only if you are sure that water will not get inside the electrical contacts.
☑️ Preparation for repair
Do not forget about personal safety. Although 220 volts are only supplied when plugged in, residual charge may remain in the capacitors and windings. Work in dry shoes and preferably rubber gloves. If the kitchen floor is wet, lay a dry rug or wooden board to eliminate the possibility of electric shock in case of unforeseen circumstances.
Step-by-step instructions for removing the protective cover
The dismantling process begins with access to the compressor. You need to move the refrigerator away from the wall, allowing clear access to the lower back. In some models Atlant the compressor is closed with a metal or plastic casing, which is secured with latches or bolts. Remove this casing to gain direct access to the black “tank” of the compressor and the relay attached to it.
Next, you should carefully remove the relay itself from the compressor contacts. It is held in place by friction and is sometimes secured with a metal bar. If there is a strip, loosen the screws and remove it. Then, grasping the relay body (not the wires!), pull it down from the three pins of the compressor with light rocking movements from side to side. Be careful: the wires leading to the relay may be short, and sudden movement can damage the insulation or tear off the terminals.
Now that you have the relay in your hands, you can begin to remove the cover. Depending on the model, the actions may differ:
- 🔧 Option with screws: inspect the perimeter of the cover. If you can see the screw heads, unscrew them counterclockwise. Sometimes the screws can be hidden under decorative plugs or a layer of factory varnish.
- 🔧 Option with latches: plastic fasteners are located along the perimeter of the plastic case. Carefully pry them off with a flat-head screwdriver while pushing the housing halves apart. Move in a circle, snapping the latches sequentially so as not to break the plastic.
- 🔧 Option with a metal bracket: in older models, the cover was pressed with a U-shaped bracket. It must be carefully bent or removed if it is removable, after which the cover can be easily removed.
After removing the cover, the internal structure of the relay will be revealed to you. You will see contacts, an inductor and possibly a posistor (ceramic element). Visually inspect them for carbon deposits, melting or broken wires. If the contacts are blackened, they can be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper or a file, but this is a temporary measure.
Diagnostics and fault table
By removing the cover, you have the opportunity to carry out initial diagnostics. Often external signs can tell you where exactly the problem lies. However, to accurately determine the malfunction, it is better to use a multimeter in continuity mode. Below is a table that will help compare visual signs with possible causes of failure.
| Visual sign | Possible cause | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Blackening of contacts | Sparking when opening circuits, poor contact | Cleaning the contacts or replacing the relay |
| Melted plastic of the case | Overheating due to overload or short circuit | Mandatory replacement of the relay and checking the compressor |
| Cracks in the posistor | Mechanical damage or power surge | Replacement of the posistor or the entire relay assembly |
| Breakage of the coil wire | Mechanical impact or factory defective | Replacing the relay |
| Presence of moisture inside | Seal failure, condensation | Drying, cleaning, checking the tightness of the housing |
It is important to note that if you find a melted case, simply replacing the relay may not solve the problem. Melting often indicates that the compressor is drawing too much current, possibly due to a turn-to-turn short in the motor windings. In this case, installing a new relay will only lead to its rapid failure.
How to check a posistor with a multimeter?
In a cold state, the resistance of the posistor should be low (about 20-50 Ohms). If the multimeter shows infinity or zero, the element is faulty. When heated with a hair dryer, the resistance should increase sharply.
Nuances for different series of Atlant refrigerators
Refrigerators Atlant have been produced for several decades, and during this time the design of the starting relays has changed. In models of the series MHM-1700 and older, relays of type RTP with a cast housing were often installed, which is almost impossible to disassemble without damage. In such cases, “removing the cover” actually means purchasing a new relay, since the factory sealing does not imply re-opening.
Series MXM-2800 and newer are often equipped with collapsible relays, where the cover is held on by plastic latches. However, there are nuances here: the plastic of old units becomes very brittle (fragile). When you try to remove the lid on a refrigerator that is 15-20 years old, there is a high probability that the latch ears will break off. In this case, after repair, the case will have to be fixed with electrical tape or clamps, which is acceptable as a temporary solution.
It’s also worth mentioning the two-compressor models. In them, the procedure for removing the relay cover is identical for both compressors, but it is important not to confuse the parts if you remove the relay from both units at the same time for diagnostics. Although they are often identical, it is better to carry out the work sequentially to avoid confusion with connecting wires.
⚠️ Attention: Specifications and design of components may vary depending on the year of manufacture. If you are the owner of a rare or experimental model, check the data with the official diagram in the product passport.
Assembly and performance testing
After you have carried out the necessary diagnostics or replacement of internal components, the assembly stage begins. If you replaced the entire relay, simply slide the new device onto the compressor contacts. Orientation is important: the relay must be positioned so that the inscription "UP" or arrow points upward. Incorrect orientation will result in the mechanism not working or quickly breaking down.
If you removed the cover to clean the contacts, make sure that there are no foreign objects, lint, or tools left inside. Align the housing halves and press until the latches click. If the cover is secured with screws, tighten them, but do not overtighten, so as not to strip the threads in the soft plastic. After this, return the metal fixing bar, if there was one.
The final stage is checking. Plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the quiet hum of the compressor starting up. After a few seconds the hum may become smoother. If you hear loud humming, clicking noises and the compressor does not start, turn off the appliance immediately. This is a signal that the problem is not solved or the new relay is not suitable. Also check the heating of the relay after 10-15 minutes of operation: it may be warm, but not hot.
Is it possible to repair the relay yourself without replacing it?
Theoretically, you can clean the contacts or replace the posistor, but practice shows that such measures give only a temporary effect. The relay is a consumable item, and its price is not high enough to risk the compressor. It is better to replace the entire assembly.
Why does the relay click, but the refrigerator does not freeze?
The click means that the relay is trying to start the compressor, but the current does not pass or the motor is jammed. This may be due to a burnt-out relay winding, a malfunction of the compressor itself, or problems with the thermostat.
Where can I find the relay markings if they are erased?
If the markings on the body are not readable, you will have to select an analogue. Take a photo of the relay, measure the dimensions of the seat and the number of contacts, then contact a service center or a spare parts store to select it based on the refrigerator model.
Is it dangerous to leave a refrigerator without a relay cover?
Yes, it is dangerous. Exposed contacts may oxidize or become exposed to moisture or insects, causing a short circuit. In addition, there is a risk of accidentally touching live parts during cleaning.
How often do you need to change the starting relay?
The service life of the relay is not strictly regulated and depends on the quality of electricity and the frequency of compressor starts. On average they last 5-10 years. Replacement is required only when malfunctions occur.