Brand refrigerators Atlant are deservedly considered one of the most reliable units in the post-Soviet space, but even the highest quality equipment fails over time. Most often, owners are faced with a situation where the compressor hums but does not start, or turns on for just a few seconds and immediately turns off with a characteristic click. In most cases, the culprit of such a malfunction is the start-up relay, which requires replacement or thorough cleaning of the contacts. To carry out the repair yourself, you need to know how to properly and safely remove the cover from this assembly without damaging the fragile plastic latches and electrical terminals.
Removing the relay protective casing is the first and critically important diagnostic stage, on which the success of the entire repair depends. Incorrect actions can lead to damage to the motor windings or leakage of the refrigeration circuit pipes. In this article we will analyze in detail the design of the protective block, the sequence of actions for disassembling it and the nuances characteristic of various models starting relaysinstalled on equipment of this brand. Compliance with safety precautions and care when working with electrical appliances is the key to ensuring that your refrigerator will work properly again.
Before starting any work, you must completely turn off the power to the refrigeration unit by unplugging the power cord from the outlet. You should not rely only on the temperature regulator, since the voltage in the network poses a real threat to life. It is also recommended to move the refrigerator away from the wall to provide free access to the rear of the compressor, where the unit we need is located. It is better to work in good lighting, using a flashlight or table lamp to clearly see the condition of the contacts and fasteners.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to try to remove the relay or open its housing while the compressor is hot. Allow the equipment to cool for 30-40 minutes after the last start attempt to avoid burns and damage to the plastic from temperature changes.
Atlant start-up relay device
Start relay in refrigerators Atlant represents is a compact electromechanical device enclosed in a plastic case. Its main function is to supply voltage to the starting winding of the compressor at the moment of start and then turn off this winding after the engine has reached the required speed. Inside the housing there is an inductor, a movable core and a contact group that opens the circuit under the influence of gravity or a spring when a certain current is reached. It is these components that often require visual inspection and cleaning.
Modern models are most often equipped with relays of the RTK or RTPseries, which have a similar design, but differ in the method of fastening and the location of the contacts. The device body usually consists of two halves, fastened together with plastic latches or screws. On one side there are three contact sockets for connecting to the compressor outputs, and on the other there are terminals for the incoming electrical cable. Understanding the internal architecture allows you to avoid mistakes during disassembly.
It is important to note that the relay housing is not sealed in the full sense of the word, but it protects the internal components from moisture, dust and oil. Over time, the plastic can become brittle due to constant heat and vibration, so special care is required when removing the cover. There may also be a capacitor inside, which serves to smooth out starting currents and improve engine performance. Its condition also affects the startup of the refrigerator.
- 🔌 Contact group: moving and stationary contacts, which often burn out when sparking.
- 🧲 Electromagnetic coil: creates a magnetic field to retract the core during startup.
- 🛡️ Protective bimetallic element: opens the circuit when overheated or overcurrent.
Is it possible to repair the relay without removing the cover?
No, full diagnostics and cleaning of contacts is impossible without opening the case. Attempts to clean the contacts from the outside will only lead to a temporary effect and may cause a short circuit.
Required tools for dismantling
In order to efficiently and safely remove the cover from the refrigerator start relay Atlant, you do not need complex professional equipment. However, using unsuitable objects, such as a knife or wide blade screwdriver, may damage the plastic housing or cause the tool to slip onto the wires. Preparing the right tools will take no more than a minute, but will significantly simplify the process and maintain the integrity of the parts.
The main tool will be a flat-head screwdriver with a thin blade, no more than 3-4 mm wide. It is necessary for carefully snapping off the plastic clips holding the halves of the case together. If the relay is attached with screws, you will need a Phillips screwdriver of the appropriate size. It would also be a good idea to have pliers with narrow jaws for removing terminals and a flashlight to illuminate the work area.
Before starting work, make sure that your hands are dry and that the tool has no traces of oil or moisture. This will prevent your fingers from accidentally slipping and being injured on the sharp edges of the metal elements of the compressor. If you plan to not only remove the cover, but also clean the contacts, prepare in advance fine sandpaper or a needle file, as well as an alcohol-containing degreasing liquid.
☑️ Tools for opening the relay
Sequence of removing the protective casing
The process of removing the cover begins with a visual inspection of the unit. Find the junction of the two halves of the plastic case. Depending on the relay model Atlant, this may be a joint around the perimeter or specific latches on the end side. Carefully insert the tip of a flathead screwdriver into the gap between the halves. Do not use excessive force so as not to split the old plastic.
Move the screwdriver along the joint, sequentially snapping off the latches. Usually there are from four to six of them. If the case is supported by screws, first unscrew them and put them in a separate container so as not to lose them. Once all the latches are released, the top of the case can be easily removed, allowing access to the insides. In some models, the cover may be soldered or glued, then it will have to be carefully cut off with a knife, but this is a last resort.
After removing the cover, the internal structure will open in front of you. Pay attention to the orientation of the parts: how the coil stands, what position the movable core is in. This will help you reassemble the device correctly. If the relay is marked RTK-1 or RTP-0, the dismantling procedure will be identical, the differences can only be in the shape of the case.
It is important not to jerk the removed cover sharply, since wires may be connected to it or it may be structurally connected to other fastening elements. Using smooth movements, release the body from all connections. If you feel strong resistance, stop and inspect the assembly again - you may have missed a hidden screw or retainer.
Diagnostics and checking contacts
After the cover is removed, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of the internal components. First of all, check the condition of the contact group. There should be no black deposits, oxides or melting on the surface of the contacts. If you see irregularities or traces of sparking, this indicates poor contact, which could cause the refrigerator to fail. Cleaning is carried out carefully, trying not to disturb the geometry of the plates.
Next, you should check the mobility of the core. It should move freely inside the coil without getting stuck or sticking to the walls. If the core is stuck, the relay will not be able to perform its start function and the compressor will hum but will not start. Also inspect the bimetallic plate of the thermal relay for deformation or signs of overheating.
For more accurate diagnostics, it is recommended to use a multimeter in dial mode. Check the integrity of the coil windings - the resistance should be within normal limits (usually several tens of ohms). Lack of resistance will indicate an open circuit, and too low resistance will indicate an interturn short circuit. The passage of current through the contact group in the closed and open state is also checked.
| Element | Normal state | Symptoms of malfunction | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Contact | Clean, smooth, without carbon deposits | Black coating, shells, melting | Clean or replace |
| Core | Moves freely in the coil | Stuck, rusted | Clean or lubricate with graphite |
| Coil | Integral, no burning smell | Breakage, blackening of turns | Replacement relay |
| Case | Intact, no cracks | Cracks, chips, melting | Replacing the case or relay |
Typical mistakes during disassembly
One of the most common mistakes is the use of brute force. Novice craftsmen often try to pry off the cover with a wide screwdriver or knife, which leads to the plastic splitting. It is difficult to restore the integrity of the body by gluing, and working without it is dangerous. If the latches do not give in, it is better to use a thin blade and heat the joint with a hairdryer at a minimum temperature to soften the plastic.
Another mistake is ignoring the markings of the wires before disconnecting. Even if it seems that it is impossible to mix them up, it is better to mark the wires with colored tape or take a photo. Connecting wires to the wrong terminals during assembly may result in a short circuit or failure of the compressor. Pay close attention to the color coding: usually the phase goes to one contact, the zero to the other, and the ground has its own terminal.
Some try to fix the relay by simply knocking on it or shaking it hard. This may temporarily restore contact, but the problem will soon return. It is also not recommended to use aggressive chemical solvents to clean contacts, as they can corrode the insulation of the wires or the plastic of the case itself. Use only specialized contact sprays or alcohol.
⚠️ Attention: Never leave the relay open without a cover while the refrigerator is running. This threatens moisture, dust and insects getting inside the device, which will inevitably lead to repeated breakdown or a fire hazard.
Assembling and installing the relay
Assembly is done in the reverse order. Make sure all internal components are in place, the core is not distorted, and the springs (if any) are in the correct position. Align the housing halves so that the latches fit into their grooves. Press evenly around the perimeter until you hear a characteristic click. If the housing was on screws, tighten them, but do not overtighten, so as not to break the threads in the plastic.
After assembling the housing, you need to install the relay on the compressor. It fits onto the three pins of the motor. It is important to orient the device correctly: usually there is an arrow or inscription UPon the body indicating the top position. The relay should fit tightly, without play. If the seat is loose, you can carefully fix it, but this is a temporary measure - it is better to replace the entire assembly.
Connect the wires to the terminals according to the previously made markings or color scheme. Make sure the terminals are tight and will not come off due to vibration. After this, you can mount the relay on the compressor frame, if a standard mount is provided. Only after double checking all connections can you turn on the refrigerator and listen to the sound of the engine starting.
When a complete replacement of the unit is necessary
There are situations when removing the cover and cleaning the contacts does not give results. If the coil windings are burned out, the core is destroyed, or the plastic has melted beyond recognition, repair becomes impractical. In such cases, a complete replacement of the start-up relay is required. Fortunately, for refrigerators Atlant these parts are widely available and inexpensive.
When choosing a new part, pay attention to the compressor power and the type of refrigerant for which the relay is designed. Universal models may not fit or work correctly. It is best to look for original spare parts or high-quality analogues with similar current and voltage characteristics. Marking the old relay will help you find the exact replacement in the store.
Replacing a relay is a quick procedure, but requires care. Install the new device onto the compressor pins, connect the wires and secure the housing. After turning on, the refrigerator should work smoothly, without buzzing or clicking. If the problem persists, the compressor itself may be faulty or there are problems with the electrical wiring, which requires the intervention of a professional technician.
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the relay the compressor still does not start or immediately knocks out the machine, do not continue trying to turn it on. This may indicate an interturn short circuit in the motor windings or a compressor wedge.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to solder a cracked relay housing?
Theoretically, it is possible to solder plastic, but this is not recommended. The housing must provide not only mechanical protection, but also a certain amount of insulation. In addition, a crack often indicates internal melting and the seal has already been compromised. It is better to replace the case or buy a new relay entirely.
Why does the relay click, but the refrigerator does not turn on?
The click means that the thermal relay is triggered and opens the circuit due to overload. This may be caused by a jammed compressor, an interturn short circuit, or a malfunction of the starting relay itself, which does not turn off the starting winding.
How to determine whether the relay or the compressor has burned out?
You need to ring the compressor windings with a multimeter. If there is resistance between the contacts and it is approximately the same (taking into account the starting and operating windings), but there is no bell between the housing and the bell contacts, the compressor is intact. If the relay is new and in good working order, but there is no start, the problem may be in the mechanics of the motor.
Do you need to lubricate the moving parts of the relay?
Usually lubrication is not required and is even harmful, since dust sticks to it. However, if the core is tight due to oxides, a minimal amount of graphite lubricant can be used. Oil lubricants cannot be used.