If your refrigerator Indesit suddenly stopped freeze, and the compressor either hums but does not start, or clicks and goes silent, most likely the problem lies in the engine starting system. In 80% of cases, the culprit is starting relay, which is responsible for supplying voltage to the compressor windings. This part is subject to high thermal and electrical loads, so over time its contacts may burn out, and the plastic case may melt or crumble.
Before taking active steps, you need to make sure that the work is safe. Any intervention in the electrical circuit of a household appliance requires complete disconnection from the network. Do not rely only on the switch on the case - always unplug the plug from the socket. This is a critical step, ignoring which can lead to electric shock, since the capacitors may retain a residual charge even after turning off.
In this article we will look in detail at how to get to the protective cover of the starter, what tools will be required for this, and what to pay special attention to when dismantling. We will look at the design features of various models Indesit, including series CIB, DS and IB, where the location and fastening of the block may have its own nuances. Correct dismantling will allow you to carry out visual diagnostics or replace the part without damaging the wires.
Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace
To perform high-quality repairs, you do not need complex industrial equipment, but having the right tools will significantly speed up the process and protect the refrigerator components from accidental damage. You will need a standard DIY kit, supplemented by a few specific items. Prepare everything you need in advance so as not to be distracted during the work process.
- 🔧 Screwdrivers: Phillips (PH2) and flat (blade width 3-5 mm) for removing fastening screws and latches.
- ✂️ Pliers or pliers with narrow jaws for careful removal terminals.
- 🔦 A flashlight or an additional light source, since the compressor area is often shaded by the housing.
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves to protect hands from possible residual currents and sharp metal edges.
Pay special attention to the choice of screwdriver. A blade that is too wide can damage the plastic latches on the relay cover, and a tip that is too narrow can tear off the screw slots. The best option would be to use a tool with a magnetic tip, which will prevent the fasteners from falling into hard-to-reach places behind the compressor. It is also recommended to place thick cardboard or a rug under the refrigerator so as not to scratch the floor and to have space for laid out parts.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to wait until the compressor has completely cooled down if the refrigerator has been running recently. The temperature of metal parts can reach 70-80 degrees Celsius, which is fraught with burns.
Access to the compressor and protective casing
The first stage of work is to gain physical access to the lower part of the refrigeration unit, where it is located motor-compressor. In most models Indesit access is from the rear. You need to move the refrigerator away from the wall at least 50-70 cm to provide comfortable space for maneuver. Make sure that the floor is level and the device is stable.
On the back wall, in the lower part, you will see a metal panel covering the compressor compartment. It can be attached with screws or held on with plastic latches. If screws are used, carefully remove them and place them in a container so as not to lose them. In some modifications, the panel can be removable and simply inserted into the grooves - in this case, you need to slightly pull it towards you and up.
After removing the panel, you will see a view of the black cylindrical compressor tank. A small plastic or metal box is attached to the side or top of it - this is start-up protection relay. The wires from the thermostat and the network cable fit into it. It is this unit that we have to dismantle for further diagnostics or replacement.
Removing the starting relay: step-by-step instructions
The process of removing the cover and the relay itself requires care, since plastic elements become fragile over time. First you need to disconnect the electrical wires. They can be fixed with terminals or simply put on the contacts. Be careful not to pull on the wires themselves - hold on to the terminal housing.
The relay cover is usually held in place by two metal clips or plastic latches on the sides of the housing. To remove it, you need to squeeze these clamps with pliers or carefully release them with a screwdriver. After removing the fixing elements, the cover can be easily removed by moving upwards. Under it you will see the insides: a contact group, a bimetallic plate and a coil.
☑️ Algorithm for removing the relay
If your goal is to simply remove the cover for visual inspection, then you can stop at this stage. However, for a full diagnosis or replacement, it is necessary to remove the relay block itself from the compressor contacts. It sits tightly on three pins. Rock it from side to side (without excessive force) and pull it down. Sometimes this requires slightly turning the relay around the axis.
| Element | Function | Symptoms of malfunction |
|---|---|---|
| Starting winding | Creates an initial rotation impulse | The compressor hums, but does not start |
| Thermal relay | Overheat protection | The refrigerator turns on and turns off immediately |
| Contact group | Switching of power circuits | Sparking, carbon deposits, lack of contact |
| Relay housing | Insulation and fastening | Cracks, melting, burning smell |
Diagnostics of the state of contacts and windings
Once the cover is removed, access to the internal components opens. An initial inspection often reveals obvious defects without the use of measuring instruments. Carefully inspect the inner surface of the cover and the contacts themselves. The presence of black soot, melted plastic or a characteristic burning smell indicates that the part requires replacement.
Pay special attention to the bimetallic plate of the thermal relay. It should not have visible deformations or tears. If no obvious defects are found during visual inspection, you will need a multimeter. Switch the device to continuity or resistance measurement mode. The normal resistance of a working starting coil is usually several tens of ohms, while the thermal relay should “ring” briefly when cold.
⚠️ Attention: If you find that the contacts are badly burnt, but decide to clean them, remember - this is a temporary measure. The structure of the metal is damaged, and after a short time the sparking will resume with renewed vigor, which can lead to jamming of the compressor.
Also check the condition of the wires themselves going to the relay. The insulation should not be cracked or brittle. If the wiring looks dry and loose, it must be replaced, as there is a direct risk of a short circuit. Models Indesit often use wiring that is sensitive to high temperatures, so make sure that the new wires are heat-resistant.
Why do contacts spark?
Sparking occurs due to the formation of an electric arc when the circuit opens under load. Over time, the air between the contacts ionizes, the resistance drops, and the spark becomes more powerful, melting the plastic.