Sudden stoppage of the compressor or refusal of the refrigerator to start often indicates problems in the motor electrical circuit. In most cases, the cause is a failure of the starting relay, which is responsible for supplying the starting pulse. To carry out diagnostics or replace a part, the owner of the equipment needs to gain access to the contact group hidden under the protective casing.
The process of dismantling the cover requires care, since the plastic elements become fragile over time, and the latches can be hidden. Incorrect actions can lead to broken latches or damaged wire insulation, which will complicate further repairs. Understanding the design of the unit and the sequence of actions will help you avoid common mistakes and quickly restore the unit to operation.
Before starting any manipulations, it is extremely important to ensure safety by completely disconnecting the device from the power supply. Even if the refrigerator is not working, voltage may remain in the circuit that is dangerous to humans. Only after removing the plug from the socket can you begin to examine the back of the device, where the motor-compressor is located.
To begin work, you will need access to the lower rear part of the refrigerator. Depending on the model and manufacturer, the compressor may be partially hidden by a decorative panel or metal sheet. Removing this protection is the first step, which opens access to start relay and the capacitor.
Usually the protective casing is secured with latches or screws. If self-tapping screws are used, they must be unscrewed with a suitable screwdriver. In models with latches, just gently press the latches and remove the panel. Under it you will see a black cylindrical or pear-shaped compressor, to the bottom of which a plastic or metal box is attached - this is the unit we are interested in.
Carefully inspect the space around the motor. There are often additional tubes or wires located there that should not be touched. Contact group The relay is located in close proximity to the output of the motor windings, so any sudden movements can damage the copper refrigerant tubes. Be especially careful if dust or cobwebs have accumulated in the niche, which is better to first carefully remove with a dry brush.
- 🛠️ Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers for removing protective panels.
- ✂️ Pliers or wire cutters for working with clamps (if any).
- 🧤 Protective gloves to prevent cuts from sharp metal edges.
- 🔦 Flashlight for better illumination of the working area in the compressor niche.
After removing the external protection, the compressor itself with the block attached to it appears in front of you. It is at this moment that many people make the mistake of trying to pull the relay by force. In fact, to remove the cover or the entire relay housing, you must first release the retaining elements. In older models, the relay can be held by a metal bracket that encloses the case in diameter.
This bracket must be carefully bent or squeezed with pliers so that it comes out of the grooves. More modern models, such as Indesit or Atlant, often use a plastic latch system. They are located on the sides of the relay housing. It is enough to press them simultaneously or sequentially so that the upper part of the casing (lid) is separated from the base.
If you see that the plastic has darkened or melted, this is a sure sign of overheating and malfunction. In this case insulating material it could lose its properties, and the part requires mandatory replacement. Do not attempt to glue a cracked housing together as this will compromise electrical safety and may result in a short circuit.
⚠️ Attention: Never attempt to remove the relay cover while the wires are under tension. First, free the wiring, otherwise you can tear the contacts out of the board or damage the insulation, which will lead to a fire hazard.
There are two main types of protective housing design: composite (with a separate cover) and monolithic. In composite models, the cover is removed separately, allowing access to the internal contacts for visual inspection or cleaning. In monolithic cases, typical for many models LG and Samsung, the “lid” is actually the entire plastic casing, which is removed entirely along with the insides.
To remove the cover in composite models, find the line where the upper and lower parts meet. Carefully insert the thin blade of a flathead screwdriver into the gap and twist slightly to release the latches. Movements should be progressive, without jerking. If the cover does not budge, check if there is an additional fixing screw that could be hidden under the sticker.
In monolithic structures, the process looks different: here you need to remove the entire plastic cup from the compressor. It is held in place by a tight fit on the motor terminals and is sometimes secured with a metal U-shaped bracket. Squeezing the bracket, pull the relay straight down. If it does not work, do not use excessive force - perhaps the contacts are stuck or rusted, and they need to be carefully loosened.
Why may the relay not be removed?
Sometimes the contacts inside the relay are welded to each other due to sparking, or oxides on the metal terminals of the compressor create a “gluing” effect. In such cases, a slight rocking from side to side helps, but this must be done extremely carefully so as not to break the ceramic base or plastic walls.
After dismantling the cover or case, the internal structure will open in front of you. The main elements are located here: coil, contacts and thermal protection. A visual inspection can answer the question about the cause of the breakdown. Look for traces of carbon deposits, plastic melting or destruction of the bimetallic plate.
Pay special attention to the condition contact group. If the contacts are blackened or coated with oxides, current will flow with difficulty, causing heating and repeated shutdowns. In some cases, it is enough to clean the contacts with fine sandpaper, but most often it is more advisable to replace the entire assembly, since the service life of the worn-out part has already been exhausted.
Also check the integrity of the wires going to the relay. The insulation should not be damaged, and the wires themselves should sit securely in the terminals. If you find that the wire has burnt away from the contact, you can solder it, but the soldering area must be carefully insulated. Using ordinary electrical tape in conditions of vibration and heating is not always effective; it is better to use heat-shrinkable tubes.
☑️ Diagnostics after removing the cover
When installing a new part or returning an old one to its place, it is important to maintain the correct orientation. The relay fits onto three terminals of the compressor, and it is almost impossible to confuse their position due to the shape of the holes. However, you need to make sure that the part is seated all the way and locked.
If you removed the metal retaining bracket, return it to its place. It prevents the relay from slipping under the influence of vibration, which inevitably occurs during compressor operation. Without this bracket, the contacts may separate and the refrigerator will stop cooling.
After assembling all the elements, but before installing the protective rear panel, you can conduct a short test run. Plug in the refrigerator and listen. The compressor should start with a characteristic hum, and after a while turn off. If you only hear a click but no startup, or the hum is intermittent, the problem may be deeper than just a faulty relay.
Different manufacturers use different engineering solutions for attaching protective elements. Understanding these nuances helps to avoid plastic breakage. Below is a table describing the fastening features of popular brands.
| Refrigerator brand | Type of fastening of the lid/body | Removal features |
|---|---|---|
| Atlant | Plastic latches on the sides | Requires simultaneous pressing on two opposite sides |
| Indesit | Metal bracket + latches | You must first bend the steel bracket with pliers |
| Bosch | Monolithic casing on a screw | Need unscrew the hidden screw from the bottom or side of the case |
| LG | Tight fit without latches | Removed by hand, often requires careful loosening |
During operation, situations may arise when even a seemingly serviceable relay does not work correctly. This may be due to poor quality contact inside the connector or microcracks in the board. If after replacing the part the problem persists, it is worth checking the voltage in the network and the condition of the windings of the compressor itself.
Sometimes users are faced with the fact that the new relay does not fit the size or shape of the contacts. This indicates that an incompatible model was selected. Each type of compressor requires a specific starting device designed for a certain power and starting current. Using an unsuitable analogue may lead to burnout of the motor windings.
Pay attention to the markings. The body of the original relay always contains the manufacturer's code and technical parameters. When purchasing a replacement, look for a match using these codes or use compatibility catalogs. Universal relays exist, but they require proper configuration or selection of adapters, which is not always reliable.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that during operation the relay makes loud clicks more often than usual (every few seconds), immediately turn off the refrigerator. This is a sign that the compressor is trying to start, but cannot, which is fraught with overheating and fire.
Compliance with safety precautions when working with electrical appliances - this is not just a formality, but a necessity. Electric current in combination with metal elements of the refrigerator creates a high risk of injury. Even after being removed from retail stores, a residual charge may remain in the capacitors.
Work in good lighting and use tools with insulated handles. If you feel unsure of your abilities or see complex damage to the wiring, it is better to contact a professional technician. Repairing a refrigerator is a balance between saving money and the risk of permanently breaking down expensive equipment.
Regular maintenance, including cleaning the rear grille and checking the condition of the wires, will help avoid sudden breakdowns. Dust accumulating on the compressor impairs heat transfer, forcing the relay to operate in more severe temperature conditions, which shortens its service life.
Is it possible to repair a burnt-out relay without replacement?
Theoretically, you can clean the contacts or replace the thermoelement, but practice shows that such repairs are temporary. The materials inside the relay degrade when exposed to high temperatures, and the rebuilt part will soon fail again. Replacing with a new one is a more reliable and safe solution.
Why does the relay make a loud click when starting?
The click is the normal sound of the starting circuit opening or thermal protection tripping. However, if the clicks are repeated cyclically every 10-20 seconds, and the compressor does not start, this indicates a faulty relay, a jammed compressor, or low voltage in the network.
How to understand that the problem is in the relay and not in the compressor?
The simplest way is to swing the removed relay next to your ear. If a ringing or knocking sound is heard inside, it means the contacts or mechanism are damaged. You can also ring the contacts with a multimeter: in normal condition the circuit should ring, but when heated (for thermal relays) it should open. If the compressor hums, but does not start, and the relay is new, the problem may be in the engine itself.
Do you need to lubricate the relay contacts during installation?
No, it is strictly forbidden to lubricate the contacts. Any lubricant (except for special contact lubricant, which is rarely used in everyday life) will insulate the connection or, conversely, collect dust and carbon deposits, impairing conductivity. The contacts must be dry and clean.