If your refrigerator Indesit stops cooling, and the compressor either does not start or hums for only a couple of seconds and clicks, the problem often lies in the start-up relay. This small device is responsible for starting the engine and protecting the windings from overloads. Owners often encounter difficulties during dismantling, since the structure can be hidden by a plastic casing or rigidly fixed to the shaft. Before proceeding with active actions, it is necessary to completely de-energize the unit by unplugging the plug from the socket.
Many users mistakenly believe that for diagnostics it is necessary to disassemble the entire refrigerator body, but in most models Indesit access to the compressor assembly is from the rear. Removing the cover is the first and most important stage of repair, requiring care so as not to damage the copper tubes or electrical contacts. Improper dismantling can lead to freon leakage or a short circuit.
In this article we will analyze in detail the process of removing the cover from the relay, consider the features of various modifications and tell you what to look for when inspecting the contacts. You will learn how to distinguish normal contamination from a fatal breakdown and whether it is worth replacing the entire part or whether you can get by with cleaning. Remember that safety comes first, and working with electrical components requires care.
Tools and workplace preparation
To successfully complete the task, you will need a minimum set of tools that can be found in every home. The main difficulty often lies not in the lack of special equipment, but in the limited space behind the refrigerator. Move the unit away from the wall so that it is convenient for you to work with the rear wall, ensuring good illumination of the compressor area.
You will need the following items to remove the protective casing and the relay itself:
- 🔧 Flat and Phillips screwdrivers - to remove the screws securing the terminal box.
- 🔪 A utility knife or flat spatula - for carefully prying up plastic latches.
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves - to protect hands from residual current and sharp metal edges.
- 🔦 Flashlight - to clearly see the markings and condition of the contacts in the depths of the niche.
Before starting work, wipe the surface around the compressor with a dry cloth to prevent dust from getting inside the electrical part. Start relay is a sensitive element, and the ingress of moisture or small debris can aggravate the situation. Make sure the floor under your feet is dry and you are standing firmly.
Localization of the start relay in the Indesit refrigerator
In refrigerators Indesit the compressor is usually located in the lower rear part of the case. The relay is placed directly on three contact pins extending from the compressor housing. However, depending on the year of manufacture and series, access to it may be closed with a plastic cover or a metal casing, which serves as protection against electric shock and mechanical damage.
Visually you will see a black cylindrical or cubic motor-compressor. A plastic box is attached to the side or top of it - this is the desired unit. Wires from the thermostat and condenser are suitable for it. If there is an additional plastic panel installed on top that covers the entire compartment, it must be removed first.
Pay attention to the condition of the wires. If the insulation is cracked or melted, this is a sign of overheating, which could cause the relay to fail. Thermal protectionbuilt into the relay could operate repeatedly, leading to degradation of the materials. In some models, the relay is covered with a metal cup, which must be carefully removed by bending the petals.
Algorithm for removing the plastic cover of the terminal box
The most common mounting option in models Indesit is a plastic box that covers electrical part of the compressor. It can be attached with screws or held on with plastic latches. If you can see the screw heads, use the appropriate screwdriver. Phillips threads are often used, but there are also screws for a flat slotted screwdriver or even hexagons.
If there are no screws, then the cover is held on by latches. In this case, you need to act carefully so as not to break the plastic, which becomes brittle over time. Insert a flat-blade screwdriver or spudger into the joint between the cover and base and apply gentle pressure while prying the lock away. Move around the perimeter, snapping the clips one by one.
After removing the cover, you will have access to the wires and the relay itself. Here it is important not to pull the wires sharply, as they may be short or have poor soldering. Terminal block may be pressed tightly against the compressor contacts. Before removing the relay, make sure that you do not touch or break anything.
☑️ Procedure for removing the cover
Removing the relay itself from the compressor contacts
When access is open, you can begin to remove the relay itself. It fits over the three studs of the compressor and is secured either with a tight fit or with a metal bracket (U-shaped bar). In models Indesit there is often an option with a metal bracket that covers the relay and is screwed with a screw to the compressor housing or is held by tension.
If the relay is held on a bracket, it must be carefully straightened or the fastening screw must be unscrewed. Be careful: the metal can be sharp, and the force must be calculated so as not to strip the threads in the aluminum compressor housing. If there is no bracket, the relay simply sits tightly on the contacts. In this case, it must be loosened with light movements from side to side, while simultaneously pulling upward.
In no case should you apply excessive force upward, as you can break the ceramic base of the contacts inside the compressor or damage the copper tubes. Start winding and the working winding is located inside the motor, and their contacts are fragile. If the relay does not work, it may have become stuck due to high temperature - then gentle rocking will help.
What's inside the relay?
Inside the plastic case there is a posistor (thermistor) and contacts. The posistor heats up when current passes, changes resistance and opens the starting circuit. If it is cracked or blackened, the part requires replacement.
Diagnostics and visual inspection of the removed part
After removing the relay, it must be carefully inspected. Shake it near your ear: if you hear a ringing or knocking sound, it means that the internal elements are destroyed and the part is definitely faulty. The appearance will also tell a lot: the presence of carbon deposits, melted plastic or a characteristic burning smell indicates a short circuit.
Check the condition of the contacts inside the connector. They must be clean, free of oxides and black deposits. If the contacts are burnt, they can be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper, but this is a temporary measure. Thermal relay (bimetallic plate) should not show signs of deformation.
For accurate diagnostics, it is advisable to ring the contacts with a multimeter. In a cold state, the resistance between certain contacts should be close to zero, and when heated (if it is possible to check) it should open. If the device shows an open where there should be a circuit, or a short circuit where there should not be one, the relay must be replaced.
| Symptom of malfunction | Probable Cause | Action |
| :--- | :--- | :--- |
| A knock is heard inside the relay | The posistor or mechanical switch is destroyed | Replacing the relay with a new one |
| Body melted | Overload or poor contact | Replacing the relay and checking the wiring |
| Compressor hums and clicks | Stuck contacts or faulty posistor | Replacing the relay |
| Relay does not ring with multimeter | Open circuit inside the part | Replacing the relay |
| Contacts in Nagara | Sparking during operation | Cleaning contacts or replacing |
Installation of a new relay and assembly
When purchasing a new part, make sure that the markings match the original or are a complete functional analogue for your model Indesit. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. First, we put the relay on the compressor studs until it stops, making sure that it is seated tightly and evenly.
Then we fix the metal bracket or fix the plastic holder. It is important to correctly connect the wires to the terminals if they have been disconnected. Usually the wires are color-coded, but it is better to check the electrical diagram, which is often printed on the inside of the removed cover or in the instructions.
After installation, close the plastic cover of the terminal box, fixing the screws or latches. Make sure that all wires are tucked under the cover and do not touch hot parts of the compressor or moving parts. Only after complete assembly can you turn on the refrigerator and check its operation.
⚠️ Attention: If, after replacing the relay, the compressor continues to hum and does not start, the problem may be in the compressor itself (turn-to-turn short circuit) or in the thermostat. Do not leave the refrigerator turned on in this mode for more than 5-10 minutes, so as not to burn the new part.
Frequent errors during disassembly and operation
One of the most common mistakes is trying to remove the relay with a jerk without first loosening it. This leads to breakage of the compressor studs, repair of which is impossible at home and requires calling a specialist with soldering equipment. Also, users often forget to check the capacitor, which works in tandem with the relay.
Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the wires. If you install a new relay on old, melted wires, the problem will soon recur. Capacitor It is also worth checking for swelling or electrolyte leakage. In older models Indesit the wiring may be dry, and any movement causes cracks in the insulation.
Do not attempt to repair the relay by gluing the case or replacing the internals unless you have extensive knowledge of electrical engineering. It is cheaper and safer to buy a new part. An incorrectly assembled relay may not turn off the starting winding, which will lead to the compressor burning out.
Is it possible to start a refrigerator without a relay?
Theoretically, it is possible using a button for manual start, but this is extremely dangerous and requires constant monitoring. You cannot leave the refrigerator in this mode - the winding will burn out.
Compatibility and relay characteristics table
When choosing a replacement, it is important to take into account not only the model of the refrigerator, but also the power of the compressor. Relays are selected by type (PTC or latching) and power range. Below is a table for approximate selection.
| Relay type | Compressor power | Installation features | Applicability |
|---|---|---|---|
| PTC (Posistor) | 1/8 - 1/4 hp | Put on studs | Most Indesit models |
| Mechanical | 1/4 - 1/3 hp | With metal bracket | Old models, powerful compressors |
| Universal | 1/6 - 1/3 hp | With kit adapters | To replace failed originals |
| With a capacitor | Depends on the model | Separate unit or assembled | Models with two-phase start |
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics of compressors may vary even within the same series of refrigerators. Always check the markings on the nameplate of your specific device before purchasing spare parts.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Is it possible to replace the relay with an analogue from another brand?
Yes, it is possible if the electrical characteristics match (power, connection type) and geometric dimensions. Relays from Ariston, Stinol refrigerators or universal Chinese analogues with adapters are often suitable.
Why did the new relay burn out after a week?
The reasons may be a malfunction of the compressor itself (difficult start), problems with the voltage in the network, or incorrect selection of relay power. It is also worth checking the capacitor.
How much does it cost to replace a relay in a service?
The price consists of the cost of the part and the work of the technician. Replacing it yourself allows you to save on the cost of services, since the part itself is inexpensive.
Is it dangerous to touch the relay with bare hands?
When the refrigerator is unplugged, there is no danger to life. However, there may be a static charge on the parts or residual current in the capacitors, so it is better to use dielectric gloves or tools.