Sooner or later, owners of reliable Belarusian refrigerators are faced with the need for serious intervention in the operation of the unit. Most often this is due to the failure of the main unit - motor-compressor, which is responsible for the circulation of the refrigerant. The situation can be critical: the device stops cooling, operates silently, or, conversely, makes loud clicks and buzzing. In such cases, the question of replacing the engine arises, but the primary task is to dismantle it.
The process of removing the motor on models Atlant has its own technical features that distinguish them from foreign technology. Here it is important not just to unscrew the bolts, but also to properly prepare the system to avoid depressurization or damage to the copper tubes. Safety and the sequence of actions are the key success factors. The wrong approach can lead to freon leakage or breakdown of neighboring components, which will significantly increase the cost of repairs.
In this article we will analyze in detail each stage of the procedure, starting from preparing tools and ending with the final removal of the unit from the frame. You will learn how to safely disconnect the electrics, what nuances the compressor suspension system has and what to pay special attention to. Careful study The material will help you avoid common mistakes and do the job efficiently.
Necessary tools and safety measures
Before you begin disassembly, it is necessary to ensure safe working conditions. A refrigerator is an electrical device that operates under high voltage. The first step is to completely de-energize the device by removing the plug from the socket. Any manipulations with live electrical components are strictly prohibited and pose a direct threat to life.
For dismantling you will need a basic set of tools. The main working elements will be open-end or socket wrenches, since they are the most convenient for unscrewing the tube fastening nuts and frame bolts. A flathead and Phillips screwdriver is also useful for removing the casing and working with clamps. A container for draining the oil will not be superfluous if you plan to replace the compressor.
- 🔧 Set of open-end wrenches (sizes 8, 10, 12 mm)
- 🔧 Screwdrivers of different types (slotted and Phillips)
- 🔧 Pliers or pliers for working with clamps
- 🔧 Container for collecting technical oil
It is best to work in good lighting, since the space behind the back wall of the refrigerator is limited. Make sure the floor is dry and you are in a stable position. If you have multimeter, its use will help to further check the integrity of the windings before removal, although this is not a mandatory step for physical dismantling.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to drain the water from the tray above the compressor (if the model assumes its presence) to avoid liquid ingress to electrical contacts and to the soldering area.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
Access to the compressor compartment and diagnostics
In refrigerators Atlant the compressor group is traditionally located in the lower part of the rear wall of the case. To access it, just move the unit away from the wall. In most cases, it is not necessary to remove the rear metal cover, since all components are open for maintenance. However, if your access is limited or the decorative panel is in the way, it can be dismantled by unscrewing the screws around the perimeter.
At this stage, it is important to carry out a visual diagnosis. Inspect the condition pipingcoming from the motor. Copper is a soft metal, and any traces of oil or frost may indicate a leak. Also pay attention to the start relay and capacitor: they are attached directly to the side of the compressor and often require replacement along with it or separately.
Pay special attention to the suspension system. The motor in refrigerators Atlant is fixed to the frame using springs and rubber shock absorbers. This is done to reduce vibration and noise. Before unscrewing the mounting bolts, it is necessary to evaluate the spring tension. If they are greatly stretched or damaged, they should also be replaced, otherwise the new motor will operate with increased noise levels.
| System element | Symptom of serviceability | Symptom of malfunction |
|---|---|---|
| Springs suspension | Uniform tension, no coil breaks | Stretching, breakage, metal corrosion |
| Rubber shock absorbers | Elasticity, no cracks | Petrification, tears, crumbling of rubber |
| Copper tubes | Smooth surface, no stains | Blisters, traces of oil, oxidation |
| Electrical cable | Complete insulation, reliable contact | Melting, cracks, exposed wires |
Disconnecting the electrical part and relay
The most crucial moment before physically removing the motor is disconnecting the electrical. On the side of the compressor there is a plastic casing that protects the start relay and thermal relay. To remove it, you need to carefully release the metal clasps or unscrew the fastening screw, depending on the modification Atlanta.
After removing the casing, you will see a start relay (black or white plastic block) and a capacitor. The relay is simply removed from the pins of the compressor, but first you need to disconnect the wires coming from the power cord. Remember or take a photo of the connection diagram so that when assembling a new unit you do not mix up the contacts. Color coding is usually used, but it is better to double-check.
To disconnect the wires, use side cutters or simply disconnect the connectors, if they are provided for in the design. In older models, the wires may be twisted and insulated - in this case, the insulation will have to be cut off and stripped again when installing a new motor. Capacitor also attached to a metal bracket or clamp, it must be disconnected from the frame.
⚠️ Attention: The capacitor may retain a residual charge even after being disconnected from the mains. Do not touch its contacts with your fingers or short them with metal objects to avoid electric shock.
Dismantling the pipelines and preparing for removal
When the electrics are turned off, we move on to the most delicate part - the copper pipelines. The motor-compressor has two outlets: for suction (thicker tube) and for discharge (thinner). They are soldered into the motor housing. If you plan to completely change the compressor, these tubes are usually cut with wire cutters or sawed with a hacksaw a few centimeters from the housing.
If you simply need to remove the motor for troubleshooting or replacing the relay, but the freon remains in the system, you need to act differently. In this case, you need to call a specialist with equipment for pumping out freon. You cannot unsolder the tubes yourself without evacuating the system, as this will lead to the release of refrigerant into the atmosphere and a violation of environmental standards. However, if we are talking about a complete replacement, the tubes are cut.
It is important not to damage the suction tube, since moisture or debris can enter the system through it. Immediately after snacking, it is recommended to plug the holes with your fingers (wearing gloves) or special plugs. The internal cavity of the compressor and system must remain sealed clean. Any dust that gets inside can damage the new compressor in a short time.
- 🛠️ Cut the discharge tube (thin) at a distance of 10-15 cm from the housing
- 🛠️ Cut the suction tube (thick) in the same way
- 🛠️ Plug the holes to prevent moisture and dust from entering
- 🛠️ Prepare a container if oil leaks from the tubes
Sometimes the tubes can be welded to a metal sheet or pass through holes in the frame. In such places they need to be carefully bent to free the motor. Do not use excessive force so as not to break the tubes at the base, where they enter other components of the refrigeration chamber.
Removing the motor-compressor from the frame
Now the motor remains hanging only on the mounting bolts and springs. In refrigerators Atlant the compressor is usually secured with four bolts to the lower metal frame. Two bolts are in the front and two in the back. To unscrew them, it is best to use a wrench with a long handle or a ratchet, as access may be difficult.
After all the bolts are unscrewed, the motor will not fall on its own - it is held by the suspension springs. To remove it, you need to lift the compressor up, removing the tension from the springs, and then carefully remove the spring hooks from the frame holes. This must be done carefully, since the springs are in a tense state and can painfully hit or jump off.
Nuances of working with suspension springs
Springs in Atlant refrigerators tend to stretch over time. When installing a new compressor (or replacing an old one), make sure that the spring hooks fit correctly into their seats on the frame. If the springs are too stretched, the motor will hit the housing during operation, creating a lot of noise. Ideally, they should be replaced with new ones along with rubber bushings.
After freeing the springs, the unit can be removed from the niche. The motor weighs from 8 to 12 kg, so be prepared for physical exertion. It should be removed by holding it by the body, avoiding tugging on the tubes. Place the removed compressor on a flat surface, preferably on a soft surface, to avoid damaging the bottom and protruding parts.
⚠️ Attention: Never turn the removed compressor upside down or on its side unless necessary. There is oil inside, which, if turned over, can enter the freon circulation circuit, which will cause water hammer and breakdown of the system upon first start-up.
Installation of a new unit and inspection
Installation of a new motor-compressor is carried out in the reverse order. First, the unit is placed in place, the suspension springs are attached. It is important to ensure that the motor stands up straight and does not warp. Then the mounting bolts are installed. They need to be tightened crosswise, gradually increasing the force to ensure an even fit.
Next comes the stage of soldering the tubes. This requires special equipment: a torch, solder and flux. The copper is heated red hot and solder is injected into the joint. The quality of soldering is critically important: there should be no pores, cavities or “drips” of solder into the tube. After soldering, the system must be evacuated and charged with freon according to the instructions for the specific model Atlanta.
The final stage is connecting the electrical system. The relay and capacitor are installed in their places, the wires are connected according to a previously made diagram or photograph. The casing is put on until the latches click. After assembly, you can conduct a test run. When you turn it on for the first time, the refrigerator may work longer than usual, gaining temperature.
Pay attention to the vibration level. If the motor is installed correctly and the springs are intact, vibration should be minimal and only be felt when touched by hand. If you hear knocking or rattling noises, check to see if the tubes are touching the refrigerator body or each other. If necessary, they can be carefully bent (only the copper part, not at the soldering itself).
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to replace the compressor on the Atlant refrigerator yourself without soldering?
A complete replacement of the compressor requires soldering copper tubes, since they welded into the body. There are so-called "puncture valves" and fill valves, but they are a temporary solution and often lead to leaks. For reliable operation, professional soldering and vacuuming of the system are necessary.
Which compressor is better to install instead of the original Atlant?
The optimal solution is to install the original compressor Atlantas it is ideal in size and performance. However, you can use analogues from Embraco, Danfoss (now Secop) or LG, provided that their power and refrigerant (R134a or R600a) match the requirements of your refrigerator model.
Why does the refrigerator not work after replacing the motor? turns off?
This may indicate several problems: a lack or excess of freon, poor-quality soldering (the passage of the tube is narrowed), a malfunction of the thermostat or a blockage in the capillary pipe. Also, the reason may be that the performance of the new compressor is insufficient for the volume of your chamber.
Is it necessary to flush the system when replacing a compressor?
If the old compressor burned out (“jammed” or there was an interturn short circuit), combustion products and acidic compounds could enter the system. In this case, flushing the system with nitrogen and special solvents is mandatory, otherwise the new motor will quickly fail.