Removing the refrigerator compressor tray is a task encountered when changing the oil, cleaning the system or repairing the circuit. This part, located under the metal casing of the unit, collects condensation and protects the engine from moisture. However, improper removal can lead to depressurizing the systemleakage of freon or damage to the tubes. In this article we will look at how to do the job carefully - from preparing tools to the final check.
It is important to understand: the design of the pan varies depending on refrigerator brand (for example, Indesit, Atlant, Samsung) and the type of compressor (linear, inverter). In older models, the tray is often secured with latches; in newer models, it is often secured with screws or even welded to the body. We will consider a universal algorithm that is suitable for 90% of household refrigerators, but before starting work, be sure to photograph the original position of all parts and tubes - this will save you from errors during reassembly.
If you have never worked with refrigeration equipment, start by studying technical data sheet your model. It usually contains a diagram of the location of the nodes. For example, a tray is often integrated into a plastic tray, while a tray can be mounted separately. It would be a good idea to watch a video showdown of your brand - this will help avoid surprises. LG the tray is often integrated into a plastic tray, and Beko can be mounted separately. It’s a good idea to watch video demos of your particular brand—this will help avoid surprises.
1. Preparing for dismantling: tools and safety precautions
Before starting disassembly, make sure that the refrigerator unplugged at least 12 hours in advance. This is necessary not only for safety, but also to ensure that the pressure in the system drops to atmospheric pressure. Working with a compressor under pressure is dangerous - there is a risk of injury if the tubes are accidentally damaged.
You will need:
- 🔧 A set of screwdrivers (phillips, flat) - to remove the casing and fasteners.
- 🔨 Socket wrenches (usually 8, 10 mm) - for unscrewing the bolts of the pallet.
- 🧲 Magnetic holder - so as not to lose small screws in hard-to-reach places.
- 📸 Smartphone - for fixing each stage disassembly.
- 🧤 Rubber gloves —protection from oil and sharp metal edges.
⚠️ Attention: If your refrigerator operates on isobutane (R600a), remember - this refrigerant is extremely flammable. Do not smoke or use open flames near the repair site. If there is a leak, ventilate the room.
Also prepare the work space:
- 📦 Clear access to the back wall of the refrigerator (move 1-1.5 away from the wall m).
- 🧹 Lay cardboard or a rag - there may be oil or condensation on the tray.
- 💡 Organize good lighting (directional lamp or flashlight).
2. Removing the rear compressor casing
The pan is hidden under a metal or plastic cover that protects the compressor from external influences. In most models (Atlant, Snaige), the casing is secured with 4–6 screws. Some brands (for example Liebert) may have additional latches.
Action algorithm:
- Unscrew all visible screws around the perimeter of the casing. They are usually located in the corners and in the center of the bottom.
- If the cover does not come off, check for hidden fasteners under stickers or rubber feet.
- Carefully pry up the cover with a flat-head screwdriver, starting from the top edge. Do not use excessive force - the plastic latches may break.
After removing the casing, you will see the compressor (black or gray cylinder with tubes) and the pan underneath. Y inverter models (for example, Samsung Digital Inverter) the pan can be part of a single block with shock absorbers. In this case, you do not need to remove it separately - just unscrew the entire module.
⚠️ Attention: Do not pull the compressor tubes - they are fragile and can crack. If you notice green or white deposits on them (oxidation), this is a sign of a freon leak. In this case, it is better to stop disassembling and call a technician.
What to do if the screws are rusty?
If the mounting screws are covered with rust, spray them with WD-40 or kerosene and wait 10-15 minutes. Then try unscrewing again. If this does not help, use a socket wrench with a ratcheting mechanism, but without jerking, so as not to strip the thread.
3. Removing the sump: step-by-step instructions
Now that the compressor is open, you can begin removing the sump. Its design depends on the model:
| Pallet type | Mounting features | Tools |
|---|---|---|
| Removable metal | Attached with 2–4 bolts to the frame compressor | Socket wrench 8 or 10 mm |
| Plastic integrated | Is part of the tray, can be removed with it | Phillips screwdriver |
| Welded | Cannot be removed, only clean in place | Brush, rag, solvent |
| With rubber shock absorbers | The tray is attached to vibration supports compressor | Pliers for removing retaining rings |
Universal procedure:
☑️ Removing the compressor pan
If the tray is stuck to the frame (often happens with old refrigerators ZIL or Minsk), do not hit it with a hammer. It is better to treat the edge with a solvent or WD-40 and wait 20–30 minutes. Then carefully pry with a screwdriver from different sides.
U inverter compressors (for example, in Hitachi or Panasonic) the pan can be part of a vibration isolation system. In this case, it is removed along with the rubber gaskets, having previously marked their position with a marker.
4. Cleaning and diagnostics of the sump
After removal, inspect the sump for:
- 🛢️ Oil deposits —this is normal for a compressor, but if the oil is black or with metal shavings, this is a sign of engine wear.
- 💧 Traces of corrosion — rust at the bottom of the pan indicates moisture getting into the system.
- 🔧 Cracks or deformations —may appear due to vibration or mechanical damage.
Clean in in this order:
- Remove coarse dirt with a dry cloth.
- Wash the tray with warm water and detergent (for example,
Fairy). - To remove oil stains, use a solvent (
White spiritor646). - Dry the part with a hair dryer or leave in the sun for 1-2 hours.
⚠️ Attention: If small metal particles are found in the pan, this is a signal of destruction of the compressor piston group. In this case, the unit will need to be replaced - cleaning the pan will only temporarily delay the breakdown.
Also check the condition drain hole (if it is in your model). It must be free - clogged drainage leads to condensation and corrosion. Clean it with wire or compressed air.
5. Typical mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when working with the compressor pan. Here are the most common:
- 🔌 Work under voltage — the compressor may start unexpectedly if the refrigerator is connected to the network. Always remove the plug from the socket!
- 🔧 Loss of fastening elements —screws and nuts from the pallet often fall into hard-to-reach places. Use a magnetic holder.
- 🛠️ Damage to the tubes — if you remove the pan carelessly, you can hit the copper tubes, which will lead to freon leakage. Hold them with your hand when dismantling.
- 📏 Improper assembly —if the pan is installed crookedly, this will cause vibration of the compressor and its premature wear.
Another common problem — tightening the bolts during reassembly. This may lead to deformation of the pallet or shearing of threads. Tighten the fastenings with a force of no more than 2–3 Nm (use a torque wrench, if available).
If after assembly the refrigerator begins to operate louder, check:
- Tension of the pallet bolts - they should be tightened evenly.
- The position of the rubber shock absorbers - they should not be skewed.
- The absence of foreign objects under the compressor (for example, a forgotten tool).
6. Reassembly and inspection
Installation of the pan is carried out in the reverse order, but with some nuances:
- If you removed the rubber gaskets, check their integrity. Cracked or deformed shock absorbers need to be replaced.
- Before tightening the bolts, make sure that the pan is level and does not touch the compressor tubes or power wire.
- After assembly, do not turn on the refrigerator immediately. Wait 10-15 minutes for the oil in the compressor to flow downwards.
To check operation:
- Connect the refrigerator to the network.
- Listen to the sound of the compressor - it should be smooth, without extraneous knocks or vibrations.
- Check the temperature in the chambers after 1–2 hours. If the refrigerator does not freeze, there may be a freon leak or damage to the tubes.
⚠️ Attention: If after assembly the compressor does not start, check starting relay (black box on the compressor). Perhaps during disassembly the contact came loose or the wire was damaged.
If everything works fine, reinstall the rear casing. Don’t forget to clean it of dust before attaching it - this will improve heat transfer and extend the life of the compressor.
7. When is it better to call a specialist?
Not all breakdowns can be repaired yourself. Contact a specialist if:
- 🔧 Traces of oil along with bubbles are visible on the compressor tubes (a sign of freon leakage).
- 🔊 The compressor hums, but does not start (the winding may be burned out or the relay is faulty).
- 🌡️ The refrigerator does not cool, although the compressor is working (the capillary tube is clogged or the thermostat is faulty).
- 💥 During disassembly, you damaged the tubes or broke the threads on the fasteners.
The cost of professional repair of the compressor pan in service centers centers:
| Type of work | Average price (RUB) |
|---|---|
| Cleaning and replacing the pan | 1 500 – 2 500 |
| Eliminating freon leaks | 3 000 – 6 000 |
| Replacing the compressor | 8 000 – 15 000 |
| On-site diagnostics | 1 000 – 2 000 |
If you doubt your abilities, it is better not to take risks. Modern refrigerators (especially those with inverter compressors) are sensitive to improper disassembly. A mistake can result in costly repairs.
Frequently asked questions about compressor trays
Can the tray be washed in the dishwasher?
No, this is not recommended. Aggressive detergents and high temperatures can deform plastic elements or damage the anti-corrosion coating of metal pallets. It is better to wash it by hand with warm water and a neutral detergent.
How often should you clean the compressor pan?
Under normal conditions - once every 3-5 years. But if the refrigerator is in a damp room or the tray quickly becomes dirty (for example, due to oil leakage), cleaning is carried out as necessary. Focus on appearance: if a lot of dirt or oil has accumulated at the bottom, it’s time to clean it.
What to do if the pan is rusted through and through?
Such a pan must be replaced. A temporary solution may be to seal cracks by cold welding (for example ABRO Steel), but this does not guarantee long-term protection. Moisture that gets on the compressor shortens its service life.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator without a tray?
Technically yes, but this is extremely undesirable. The pan protects the compressor from moisture, dust and mechanical damage. Without it, the risk of corrosion and engine breakdown increases by 2–3 times. If the pan is damaged, it is better to install a new one or an analogue of a suitable size.
Why did the refrigerator become louder after cleaning the pan?
Probable reasons: the pan is installed unevenly (check the gaps), the compressor fastenings are loose or the rubber shock absorbers are damaged. Also, loud operation may be due to air entering the system during disassembly. In this case, you need a vacuum pump to remove air.