A sudden stop of the compressor or a characteristic click followed by silence often indicates a failure starting protection device. If your Beko refrigerator stops cooling, and the motor hums for only a couple of seconds, the problem most likely lies in this particular unit. Replacing a relay is one of the most accessible procedures for a home craftsman, which does not require complex special tools, but requires care and compliance with safety precautions.
Before starting disassembly, you need to make sure that the unit is completely de-energized. Start relay (starter) and thermal protector usually located in close proximity to the compressor, on its side or bottom. In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will allow you to safely remove the part for diagnostics or replacement without damaging the tubes and wiring.
It is worth noting that the design may differ depending on the series. Models Beko CN, RCNE or CS may have differences in the location of the casing and fastenings. However, the general principle of dismantling remains the same for most household refrigerators of this brand. The main thing is to act without excessive force so as not to break the plastic clips.
⚠️ Attention: Any repair work on electrical appliances can only be carried out after completely unplugging the power cord from the outlet. Residual voltage in the circuit can lead to an electric shock, even if the device is not working.
Diagnosing a malfunction of the starting relay
Before removing the part, it is worth conducting initial diagnostics to make sure that replacement is advisable. Often, users replace working components, although the problem may be in the wiring or the compressor itself. If the engine hums but does not start, or starts with a strong metallic clanging sound, this is a sure sign of a malfunction starter mechanism.
Visual inspection can also provide a lot of information. If traces of burning, melted plastic or black deposits on the contacts are visible inside the relay housing, replacement is inevitable. Sometimes the relay emits a characteristic smell of burnt insulation, which can be felt even without opening the case. In such cases, further operation of the refrigerator Beko is prohibited.
- 🔊 Sound signs: A loud click every few minutes, humming of the motor without starting, complete absence of sound from the compressor when the power is on.
- 🌡️ Temperature signs: The compressor heats up to critical temperatures (more than 90°C) for a short operating time, after which the thermal protection is activated.
- 👀 Visual signs: Blackening of contacts, cracks on the relay body, burning smell in the engine compartment area.
If you discovered that the relay is “stuck” in the closed state, the starting winding of the engine may burn out. Therefore, it is important not to ignore the first symptoms. An accurate check often requires a multimeter, but an initial assessment can also be made visually. If you plan to remove the unit for replacement, make sure you have a similar part with an identical marking code on hand.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to start the compressor directly, bypassing the relay, to "check". This can lead to a wedge of the piston group and the final failure of the expensive motor.
Preparation of tools and work area
For high-quality dismantling start relay of the refrigerator Beko it is necessary to prepare the workspace in advance. The compressor chamber is usually located at the lower rear of the unit, so you will have to either tilt the refrigerator or lay it on its side. Make sure that the floor is covered with soft rags or cardboard so as not to damage the enamel of the case and decorative elements.
The set of tools for this operation is minimal, but should be at hand. You will need a flathead and Phillips screwdriver, possibly some narrow-jaw pliers and side cutters. If the compressor is difficult to access, you may need to remove the rear metal cover, which is often secured with screws. It would also be a good idea to prepare a flashlight to illuminate hard-to-reach places.
☑️ Preparing for repairs
Pay special attention to lighting. Dust and cobwebs often accumulate in the compressor niche, which in poor light can be mistaken for insulation damage. Carefully remove dirt with a dry brush before starting work. This will not only improve visibility, but will also prevent debris from getting inside the electrical contacts during disassembly.
Procedure for removing the protective casing and accessing the compressor
The first stage of work is to provide physical access to the motor-compressor. In most models Beko this requires removing the back panel. It can be metal or plastic, depending on the year of manufacture and series of the refrigerator. Fastening elements are usually self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the panel.
Sometimes the panel is held on by plastic latches that require careful handling. If you feel a lot of resistance, do not force it - you may have missed a hidden screw. After removing the panel, you will have a view of the compressor, condenser grille and tube system. Be extremely careful: copper tubes are very soft and easily deformed.
If access to the relay is blocked by a plastic cup or casing on the compressor itself, it must also be removed. It is usually removed by slightly turning or pressing the latches. Under this casing is hidden starting relay and thermal protector, placed on the compressor terminals.
| Element | Type fastenings | Tool | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back panel | Screws / Latches | Phillips screwdriver | Sharp edges metal |
| Plastic cup | Clamp / Latches | Flat screwdriver | Fragile plastic |
| Terminal block | Screws / Clamps | Flat screwdriver | Requires care |
| Refrigerant pipes | Soldering | Not touch | Easily wrinkled |
It is important not to confuse the tubes with electrical wires. Copper refrigerant lines are under high pressure, and their damage will lead to freon leakage, which will require expensive repairs involving a specialist with a vacuum pump.
Technology for dismantling the start relay
The process of removing the relay itself requires precision. The device is a plastic block that fits directly onto the three pins of the compressor. It can be fixed with a metal bracket or simply held in place by a tight fit and weight. If a metal strip is visible, it must be carefully bent or the fastening screw unscrewed.
The relay must be removed strictly vertically downwards or by gently rocking from side to side, but without jerking. Sudden tugging can cause the ceramic insulators on the compressor terminals to break or the internal contacts to break off. If the relay is “stuck” due to heat, you can slightly warm it with a hairdryer (not an open fire!) to soften the plastic, but usually a firm but gentle effort is enough.
What's inside the relay?
Inside the plastic case there is a coil with copper winding, a movable core and contacts. When voltage is applied, the coil creates a magnetic field that draws in the core and closes the contacts to start the motor. After starting, the current drops and the core falls under the influence of gravity, opening the circuit.
After removing the main relay block, thermal protection may remain on the wires - a small tablet that is placed on the upper terminal of the compressor. It also needs to be removed if you plan to completely replace the unit. Pay attention to the condition of the wires: if the insulation is cracked or melted, they must be cleaned and insulated or replaced entirely.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to remove the relay by pulling the wires. This will lead to the separation of the conductors from the contact group, and it will be extremely difficult to restore them without soldering.
Marking and selection of replacement for Beko models
After successful dismantling, you will see a part that needs to be identified. The relay body Beko always bears markings containing information about the manufacturer, type (PTC or induction) and compatibility with the power of the compressor. The most common markings for these refrigerators are series RT, CSR or 613.
When purchasing a new part, it is critical that not only the brand matches, but also the technical characteristics. The compressor power (indicated in watts or by model code, for example 1/5 HP, 1/4 HP) must be within the range indicated on the new relay. Installing an unsuitable element will either prevent the engine from starting or cause it to burn out quickly.
- 🔢 Model code: Look for an inscription like "RT-123" or "613h0001". This is the main identifier for searching for an analogue.
- ⚡ Voltage and frequency: Make sure that the relay is designed for 220-240V and 50Hz (standard for the Russian Federation).
- 📐 Geometry: Distance between contacts and shape The seats must match, otherwise the relay will not fit into place.
If the original spare part cannot be found, it is permissible to install universal analogues, but only after checking the electrical circuit. Universal relays often require adjusting the wire length or using adapter blocks, which increases the risk of poor contact.
Frequent replacement errors and precautions
Even a simple relay replacement operation can go wrong if you make typical beginner mistakes. One of the most common is installing the relay in the wrong orientation. There is often an arrow UP or TOPon the case, which should point straight up. Violating this rule will result in the mechanism not working correctly.
Another mistake is ignoring the thermal protection state. Often not only the starting relay, but also the thermal relay fails. If you replace only the starter, the new element may quickly burn out due to the fact that the protection does not work at the right time. Replace both elements as a set if they are structurally separated.
Also do not forget about the cleanliness of the contacts. Oxidized compressor leads or wires create additional resistance, causing heating and repeated failure. Clean the contacts with fine sandpaper or alcohol before installing the new relay. Make sure that the wires do not touch the hot parts of the compressor after assembly.
Is it possible to restore an old Beko refrigerator relay?
Theoretically, if the relay is inductive, it can be disassembled, clean the contacts from carbon deposits and reassembled. However, the service life of a restored device is unpredictable. Considering the low cost of a new part, repairing an old relay is not economically feasible and is risky for the safety of the compressor.
Why does a new relay burn out after a few days?
There may be several reasons: the power is incorrectly selected (the relay is too weak for a given compressor), the compressor itself is faulty (turn-to-turn short circuit of the windings), or problems with network voltage. It is also possible that a new part is defective or poor contact in the terminal block.
How can you tell that the compressor has burned out and not the relay?
If, when power is supplied to a working relay that is known to be working, the compressor emits a quiet hum, but does not start, and at the same time heats up quickly, the motor may be jammed. If the resistance of the windings, measured with a multimeter, shows an open circuit (infinity) or a short circuit (close to zero), the compressor is faulty.
Is it necessary to evacuate the system when replacing the relay?
No. The start relay is located on the electrical part of the compressor and is not connected to the sealed refrigerant circuit. Replacing the relay does not require opening the freon circuit, so pumping freon or vacuuming is not required.