How to remove the start relay from the compressor of the Atlant refrigerator

A sudden stop of refrigeration equipment is always stressful, especially when perishable products are stored in the chamber. If you notice that your Atlant refrigerator stops freezing, but at the same time makes characteristic clicks or hums for only a few seconds, the problem most likely lies in the engine starting system. Start relay is a small but critical unit that is responsible for supplying a starting pulse to the compressor windings. Without it, the motor cannot go from rest to operating mode.

Fortunately, replacing this component does not always require calling a technician and costly repairs. In many cases, especially in models with open access to the unit, the procedure can be performed independently, having a minimal set of tools. In 90% of cases, the failure of the starting relay is the cause of the “clicking” a refrigerator that does not start. In this article we will look in detail at how to safely get to the unit, dismantle it and carry out initial diagnostics to understand whether an urgent replacement is needed.

Before you begin disassembling, it is important to understand that you are dealing with an electrical appliance connected to a high voltage network. Any manipulations with internal components should be carried out only after completely disconnecting the device from the power supply. Safety is priority number one, and neglecting this rule can lead to serious consequences. Next, we will look at the stages of work that will help you restore the functionality of your equipment.

Principle of operation and signs of relay malfunction

The starting relay in refrigerators Atlant performs the function of a switch. When the compressor is turned on, a large starting current flows through its windings, which heats a special plate inside the relay. Under the influence of temperature, the plate bends and opens the starting winding circuit, allowing the motor to operate on the main winding. If this mechanism is broken, the compressor either does not start at all or operates with overload, which quickly disables it. Thermal protection in such models it is often built into the same housing or located nearby.

The malfunction can be determined by a number of indirect signs that appear long before the unit stops completely. Owners often ignore the first bells, attributing them to power surges or peculiarities of the network. However, ignoring the symptoms can lead to combustion of the compressor itself, the repair of which is not economically feasible.

• 🔊 The refrigerator makes a loud click, followed by a pause, and the cycle repeats again.
• ❄️ The unit hums for 3-5 seconds, then a click is heard and the motor stops without starting pump freon.
• 🔥 The compressor housing or the area next to the relay gets very hot, although the refrigerator itself is not cold.
• 💡 When turned on, the circuit breakers are knocked out or the wiring burns out at the connection point.

⚠️ Attention: If after clicking the compressor continues to hum and does not turn off on its own within 10-15 seconds, immediately unplug the refrigerator! This means that the thermal protection does not work and the motor operates in short circuit mode, which threatens a fire.

Diagnostics should begin with a visual inspection and listening to the operation of the unit. In some models Atlant of the KShD or KXM series, a faulty relay may emit a specific smell of burning or scorched plastic. If you smell such a smell coming from the back wall, this is a sure sign that the contacts or conductive paths have melted inside the relay housing. In this case, further operation of the device is strictly prohibited until the part is replaced.

Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace

In order to remove the start relay from the refrigerator compressor Atlant, you do not need a complex professional tool. Most operations can be performed using a standard DIY kit. The main thing is to ensure good lighting of the working area, since the back of the refrigerator is often in a dark place, and the parts there are arranged compactly.

You will need the following tools for the work:

• 🔧 A flat-head screwdriver (blade width 3-5 mm) for removing clamps and covers.
• 🔩 Phillips screwdriver (PH2) for removing the mounting screws of the protective casing.
• ✂️ Side cutters or wire cutters for cutting plastic clamps if they cannot be removed.
• 🧤 Dielectric gloves to protect hands from possible residual currents and sharp metal edges.

Preparation of the workplace also plays an important role. Move the refrigerator away from the wall at least 50-70 centimeters to have free access to the back panel. If the floor is slippery, lay down a mat or cardboard to prevent the equipment from moving while working. Make sure the room is dry and there are no puddles or wet rags under your feet, since water is a conductor of electricity.

Before starting disassembly, be sure to wait until the compressor has cooled down if it has recently been running. The temperature of the metal body of the unit can reach 70-80 degrees Celsius, and accidental contact can lead to burns. Patience in this matter, your safety is the key. While the equipment is cooling, you can prepare a new part for replacement if you have already carried out diagnostics and are confident in the diagnosis.

Removing the protective casing and accessing the compressor

In refrigerators Atlant the compressor is usually located in the lower rear part of the case and is covered with a metal or plastic casing. This casing protects the unit from dust, moisture and mechanical damage, and also reduces noise levels. To remove it, you need to carefully unscrew the fasteners. Depending on the year of manufacture of the model, fastening can be carried out with screws or latches.

The process of removing the casing is as follows:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and move it away from the wall.
2. Find the mounting screws around the perimeter of the back panels.
3. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws, placing them in a magnetic tray or container so as not to lose them.
4. Carefully remove the panel by pulling it towards you and slightly up to disengage the lower hooks.

After removing the panel, your view will open motor-compressor, condenser (coil) and filter-drier. Carefully inspect the area around the compressor. You will see a black cylindrical or box-shaped piece that fits onto the side of the motor rod. This is the required relay. Wires from the thermostat and the motor itself are suitable for it.

Sometimes access to the relay may be difficult due to the condenser tubes. In such cases, do not try to force your hand between the tubes, as you can damage the thin-walled copper and break the tightness of the system. It is better to carefully bend the tubes with a gloved hand or temporarily remove the capacitor mount, if the design allows this. Be extremely careful with copper tubes - they are very soft and easily deformed.

The process of removing the start relay from the compressor

The very moment of removing the relay from the compressor shaft is a key step that requires care. The relay fits onto three contact pins extending from the compressor housing and is secured with a tight fit and sometimes with an additional metal clamp or bracket. The main task is to remove it without damaging the contacts or breaking off the pins, since restoring them is a complex process that requires welding.

Procedure for dismantling:

• 👀 Visually inspect the fastening method. If there is a metal bracket, carefully pry it with a flat-head screwdriver and remove it.
• 🔌 Disconnect the wire terminals that go to the relay. Remember or take a photo of which wire is connected where, although they usually have a unique connector shape.
• 🤏 Take the relay with both hands (or one hand by the body, holding the compressor with the other) and pull it towards you with rocking movements from side to side.
• 🛑 Do not apply excessive force in the “up” or “down” direction, so as not to break the ceramic base of the contacts on the compressor.

If the relay sits very tightly and cannot be removed by hand, you can slightly warm up its body with a hair dryer (not a hair dryer, but a regular hair dryer) for 30-40 seconds. The plastic will expand, making it easier to remove the part. However, be careful: overheating can melt the internal components if the relay suddenly works, so heat only the outer housing for a short time.

⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to use metal objects (screwdrivers, knives) to pry the relay between the compressor housing and the relay. You may damage the sealing rubber or chip the ceramic insulation of the contacts, which will lead to freon leakage or a short circuit.

After successfully removing the relay, inspect the seat on the compressor. There should be no soot, oxides or moisture. If you notice black burn marks on the compressor contacts, carefully clean them with fine sandpaper or a file, being careful not to damage the pins themselves. Clean contacts are the key to a reliable electrical connection.

Diagnostics and testing of the removed device

The removed relay must be checked to make sure it is not working. A visual inspection often provides 50% of the information: if soot, melted plastic, or a burning smell is visible inside the housing, then the part definitely requires replacement. However, even a seemingly serviceable relay may not work. For accurate diagnostics, you will need a multimeter (tester).

The table below will help you interpret the test results:

When checking with a multimeter, switch the device to resistance measurement mode (Ohms). Attach the probes to the relay contacts. If the device shows “infinity” where the circuit should be, it means there is a break inside. It is also important to check whether the contacts are “stuck” in the closed state, which happens less frequently, but is also dangerous.

Is it possible to temporarily start a refrigerator without a relay?

Theoretically, you can close the contacts manually to check the compressor, but doing this is strictly not recommended without experience. The compressor can burn out in a few seconds without protection, and the risk of electric shock is very high. It is better to use a known good relay for the test.

If you have the opportunity, compare the markings of the removed relay with the new one. For refrigerators Atlant relays of the R-1, R-2, R-3, R-4, R-5, R-6, R-100 series, as well as more modern RT (Danfoss) or their analogues, are often suitable. The markings are usually on the side or top cover. It is important that the new relay matches the power of your compressor.

Installing a new relay and assembling the system

Installing a new starting relay is done in the reverse order of dismantling. This is the most critical moment, since an incorrect fit can lead to the refrigerator not starting or the relay burning out immediately after turning on. Make sure that you purchased a part with the correct orientation of the contacts.

Installation algorithm:

1. Orient the new relay strictly according to the marking: the arrow or inscription UP (UP) should look up.
2. Carefully put on relay on the three pins of the compressor all the way. It should fit tightly, without backlash.
3. Connect the wires to the relay terminals according to the photo or diagram taken earlier.
4. Install the fixing bracket or clamp, if provided by the design.

After installing the relay, return the compressor protective casing to its place and secure it with screws. Do not leave the compressor open during the test run as rotating parts and high temperatures are dangerous. Make sure that the wires do not touch hot pipes or the motor itself.

Now you can turn on the refrigerator. Pay attention to the nature of the start-up: there should be a confident click, the hum of the engine should become even and turn into a quiet working hum. If the refrigerator started up and after 10-15 minutes began to freeze, it means that the repair was successful.

Frequent replacement errors and precautions

In the process of self-repair, beginners often make mistakes that can negate all efforts or lead to breakage of the new part. One of the most common mistakes is ignoring the “UP” marking. Starting relays with a posistor (which are most often found in modern Atlantakhs) only work in a certain position. If you turn the relay upside down, the posistor will not cool down or heat up correctly, and the compressor will not start.

Another common mistake is poor contact in the terminals. If you simply put the terminals on the relay contacts without checking the tightness of the fit, over time the contact area will begin to heat up. This will cause the plastic to melt and break again. Always check if the wires are loose.

⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the relay the refrigerator does not start again or the plugs are knocked out, the problem may not be in the relay, but in the compressor itself (turn-to-turn short circuit) or in the wiring. Do not install the third relay in a row - both you and the equipment will burn out. Call a specialist for in-depth diagnostics.

It is also worth mentioning compatibility. Not all relays are universal. Although many craftsmen use adapters or universal kits, for a refrigerator Atlant it is better to look for original spare parts or proven analogues (for example, from Danfoss with a corresponding adapter). The use of “Chinese” analogues without markings can lead to unstable operation.

In conclusion, replacing the start relay is one of the most accessible repair procedures refrigerators. It does not require evacuation of the system or working with freon, which makes it safe to perform independently while observing safety precautions. Regular inspection of the rear panel and timely reaction to changes in the sound of the motor will help you avoid more serious damage.

Is it possible to use a relay from another refrigerator, for example, from Indesit or Stinol?

You can use relays from other brands only if their electrical characteristics (operation current, power) match the parameters of yours compressor Atlant. Adapter frames or changes to the wiring diagram are often required. It is better to select a relay according to the catalog number or technical characteristics indicated on the case.

How long does a starting relay last on average?

The average service life of a high-quality starting relay is 5-10 years. However, frequent power surges, compressor overheating due to a dirty condenser, or unstable thermostat operation can significantly shorten this period. Installing a voltage stabilizer will extend the life not only of the relay, but also of the entire refrigerator.

Why does a new relay burn out immediately after installation?

If a new relay burns out instantly, there may be several reasons: incorrect installation (upside down), a malfunction of the compressor itself (short circuit in the windings), a malfunction of the thermostat (does not open circuit) or problems with the mains voltage. In such cases, professional diagnostics of the motor-compressor is required.