A sudden stop of the compressor is always an alarm for the owner of the refrigerator, because this is followed by spoilage of food and the need for urgent intervention. If you notice that the unit Atlant has stopped freezing, and the engine either hums but does not start, or clicks and immediately stalls, most likely the problem lies in the engine starting system. Often the culprit is precisely start-up protection relay, which is responsible for supplying voltage to the windings and protecting against overloads. In this article, we will look in detail at how to independently diagnose a breakdown and replace this unit.
Independent repair of household appliances requires not only accuracy, but also an understanding of the electrical processes occurring inside the unit. Refrigerators of the Belarusian brand Atlant are structurally similar to each other, which simplifies the maintenance procedure, but safety measures absolutely cannot be neglected. You will be working with electricity and refrigerant, so every movement must be precise. Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the device from the power supply by unplugging the plug from the socket, since any manipulations with the compressor under voltage are deadly.
Do not be intimidated by complex terminology or the appearance of the motor-compressor - the procedure for dismantling the relay is quite within the capabilities of a home craftsman with basic skills. The main thing is to correctly determine the type of malfunction and make sure that the problem is in the starting device, and not in the engine or thermostat itself. If you hear a characteristic hum that lasts a few seconds, followed by a click and silence, this is a classic symptom of a failure of the starter winding or the relay itself. Let's figure out how to properly approach solving this problem.
Symptoms of malfunction and initial diagnosis
Before you grab the tools, you need to make sure that the problem lies precisely in the starter mechanism. A refrigerator Atlant may not work for a variety of reasons, from freon leakage to compressor combustion, but the symptoms often overlap. If the engine tries to start, makes a low-frequency hum, and then there is a click and silence, this is the first "red flag". In some cases, the engine may not even hum, but simply click quietly, which indicates a lack of contact in the starting circuit.
The second important sign is heating of the compressor housing. If you touch the back of the unit and find that the motor-compressor is hot, although there is no cold in the chambers, this indicates that current is supplied to the windings, but the rotor does not rotate. The thermal relay at this moment performs its protection function, opening the circuit to prevent the final combustion of the windings. However, constant on and off cycles quickly wear out the contacts and can lead to more serious damage.
⚠️ Attention: If, after the motor clicks and stops, you smell a burning smell or see sparking in the compressor area, stop trying to turn it on immediately! Operating the refrigerator in this condition can lead to a fire.
A multimeter is often required for accurate diagnosis, but an initial inspection can be carried out visually and by ear. Pay attention to the frequency of the cycles: if the refrigerator turns on, runs for a couple of seconds and turns off, and so on in a circle, this is a “clocking” characteristic of problems with the starting system. It is also worth checking for mechanical damage on the wires going to the compressor, since sometimes the reason is trivial - oxidation of the contacts or a break.
- 🔊 The engine hums for 5-10 seconds, then a click is heard and there is silence.
- 🔥 The compressor housing gets very hot, although the refrigerator does not freezes.
- ⚡ When you turn on the power, a single click is heard, but the motor does not start at all.
- 💡 The light inside the refrigerator is on, but the compressor is silent or runs jerkily.
Necessary tools and safety measures
For successful To remove and replace the relay, you will need a minimum set of tools that can be found in the arsenal of most men. The main tools will be flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers, since fasteners may differ depending on the model Atlant. A side cutter or pliers will also be useful for working with clamps and wires, and if you plan to check the part, you can’t do without a multimeter. It is important to prepare a clean rag for wiping contacts and, possibly, contact spray for treating connections.
Safety is priority number one. In addition to the mandatory disconnection from the network, it is worth ensuring good access to the back wall of the refrigerator. Move the unit away from the wall so that you can freely approach the compressor from all sides. If the floor is cold or wet, lay a rubber mat or dry board to eliminate the possibility of electric shock, even if the appliance is turned off (what if someone accidentally turns on the plug).
☑️ Preparation for repair
Do not forget that the compressor is a heavy metal unit suspended on springs When removing the protective casing or manipulating the wires, try not to sharply pull the pipes coming from the motor. The copper pipes of the cooling system are very thin and easily burst when bent, which will lead to a refrigerant leak and costly repairs for a technician with a vacuum pump. Accuracy is more important than speed here.
Access to the compressor and removal of the casing
To get to the start-up relay, you need to remove the protective plastic casing located at the lower rear of the refrigerator. On models Atlant it is usually secured with latches or screws. If you see screws, carefully remove them with a suitable screwdriver. If the casing is held on by plastic clips, they must be carefully loosened, prying them up with a flat tool, so as not to break the fragile plastic, which could become even more brittle over time.
After removing the cover, you will see a view of the motor-compressor. This is a black “barrel” with pipes coming out of it. The relay is usually mounted on the side or top of the compressor and covered with an additional small plastic cover or simply fixed to the terminals. On some models starting relay it may be closed with a metal bracket that needs to be bent or removed. Carefully inspect the design to understand the type of fastening before using force.
Sometimes access to the relay is difficult due to the tight arrangement of the tubes or the presence of an additional tray for collecting condensate. In such cases, temporary removal of the drip tip may be necessary. Be methodical: first assess what's in the way, then clear the space. Do not try to bend the tubes by force - this may result in depressurization of the system. If access is too limited, you may have to partially dismantle the fastenings of the compressor itself, but this is a last resort.
⚠️ Attention: The pipes coming out of the compressor are part of a sealed circuit. Do not bend them or allow moisture to get inside when removing parts. Any microcrack will lead to failure of the refrigerator.
Connection diagram and dismantling of the relay
The start-up protection relay on refrigerators Atlant is a compact block that fits directly onto three contact pins coming out of the compressor housing. These pins correspond to phase, start winding and ground. To remove the relay, you must first disconnect the wires leading to it from the thermostat and capacitor. Remember or photograph the color coding of the wires before disconnecting, so as not to mix up the contacts during assembly.
The process of removing the relay from the compressor contacts requires caution. It can fit tightly, especially if it has been used for a long time in vibration conditions. Grasp the relay body (not the wires!) and try to pull it down with light rocking movements from side to side. Do not use excessive force to avoid crumbling the old plastic or breaking the ceramic core inside. If the relay does not work, you can slightly pry it with a flat screwdriver, but very carefully.
Color marking of wires
Usually the relay has a diagram or letter designations. The black or brown wire is phase (L), blue is neutral (N), yellow-green is ground. However, colors may vary depending on the year the Atlant model was produced, so always check the original diagram on the case or in the instructions.>
After removing the relay, inspect its interior. There you will see contacts that could be burnt, blackened or oxidized. Also check the condition of the inductor (if the relay is electromagnetic) or the bimetallic plate. Often, a visual inspection immediately makes it clear that a part requires replacement: a melted body, a burning smell, or elements dangling inside are clear signs of a malfunction.
Checking the performance of the part
Before buying a new part, it makes sense to check the old one, if possible. To do this, you will need a multimeter switched to continuity or resistance measurement mode. Position the relay so that the contacts are accessible and check the circuit between the input and output terminals. In normal condition, the resistance should be close to zero (for closed contacts) or infinity (for open ones), depending on the type of relay and position.
If you have an electromagnetic relay, check the resistance of the coil winding. It should be several ohms (usually from 10 to 40 ohms, depending on the model). If the multimeter shows an open (one on the screen) or a short circuit (zero), then the coil is burnt out. For thermal relays, it is important to check the integrity of the bimetallic plate - it should not be deformed, and the contacts should close freely when pressed.
There is a simple but rough test method: if you shake the relay near your ear and hear a rattling sound, this means that the contacts or the core are loose. A working relay should not make sounds when shaken. However, this method does not provide a 100% guarantee, since the contacts may be intact, but burnt, which is why they will not conduct current under load.
| Check Type | Normal reading | Symptom of malfunction |
|:--- |:--- |:--- |
| Visual inspection | Clean contacts, whole body | Melting, soot, cracks |
| Coil continuity | 10-40 Ohm (resistance) | Open (∞) or short circuit (0 Ohm) |
| Shaking | Silence | Rattling inside the case |
| Heating during operation | Warm (not hot) | Strong heating, burning smell |
Selecting a replacement and installing a new relay
When purchasing a new start-up relay for Atlant it is critically important to choose a model that matches the power of your compressor. The relay body always has markings, for example, R-1, R-2, R-3, R-4, RKT or foreign analogues such as Danfoss, Zamel. The number or code indicates the engine power range. Installing a relay with inappropriate parameters will either result in the engine not starting, or in the fact that the relay will burn out instantly without protecting the compressor.
Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. First make sure the contacts on the compressor are clean. If there are oxides on them, carefully clean them with fine sandpaper or a file. Slide the new relay onto the pins as far as they will go, ensuring a snug fit. Then connect the wires according to your diagram or photo taken before disassembly. Securely secure the wires in the terminals to prevent sparking.
After connecting all the wires and installing the protective casing, you can conduct a test run. Plug in the refrigerator. If you hear the engine start confidently, there are no extraneous clicks or hums, and after 10-15 minutes the refrigerator begins to get colder, the repair was successful. If the situation repeats (clicking and silence), perhaps the problem is deeper: the compressor itself is faulty or there are problems with the wiring.
- 🛒 Select the relay strictly according to the compressor power marking (indicated on the nameplate on the back).
- 🔌 Before installation, clean the oxidized contacts on the terminals motor.
- 📸 Always take a photo of the connection diagram before disassembling so as not to get confused.
- ✅ After replacement, check the tightness of the casing to protect against dust and moisture.
⚠️ Attention: Specifications of compressors and compatible relays may vary depending on the year release and series of the refrigerator. Always check the markings on the old part with the new one before purchasing, even if the model of the refrigerator is the same.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to start a refrigerator without a start relay?
Theoretically, you can start the engine by manually closing the contacts or using external power, but this is extremely dangerous and is not intended for permanent operation. Without a protective relay, the compressor will burn out at the first overload or power surge. Operating a refrigerator without this unit is strictly prohibited.
Why does a new relay burn out immediately after installation?
Most often the reason lies in the compressor itself. If the motor is “jammed” or has an interturn short circuit, it consumes a huge starting current, which instantly burns out the contacts of the new relay. Also, the reason may be incorrect selection of relay power or problems with the voltage in the network.
Where can you find the relay markings on the Atlant refrigerator?
The markings are applied directly to the plastic body of the relay. To see it, you need to remove the compressor protective casing. Look for designations like "P-1", "RKT-1", "Danfoss 101L0011" or similar codes. Also, information about the type of relay required can be in the technical documentation for the refrigerator.
How much does it cost to replace a relay yourself?
The cost consists only of the price of the new part, since the work is done independently. The price of the relay varies from 500 to 1500 rubles depending on the model and manufacturer. This is much cheaper than calling a specialist, the cost of which, together with a spare part, can cost 3000-5000 rubles.