Sudden stoppage of operation of the refrigeration unit or its inability to maintain the set temperature often indicates a failure of the electrical components of the compressor. In most models of equipment Beko, as in many other household appliances, a special device called a starting relay is responsible for starting the engine. It is this small but critical element that supplies a current pulse to the starting winding of the motor, allowing it to overcome the initial resistance and begin to rotate the shaft.
If you notice that the compressor is trying to start, makes a characteristic click and immediately turns off, or the motor hums but does not start, most likely the problem lies in this unit. Timely diagnostics and competent replacement of parts can return the refrigerator to full operation without an expensive call to a technician. In this article, we will analyze in detail the structure of the mechanism, the algorithm for its dismantling and installation, and also point out the nuances that must be taken into account when working with electrical equipment.
Before starting any manipulations, it is extremely important to realize that you will be working with electrical components that are energized in working condition. Although the replacement process itself is mechanically simple, it requires compliance with basic electrical safety rules and attention to the details of the design of your particular refrigerator Beko. Incorrect connection or damage to related elements can lead to the final failure of an expensive compressor.
Diagnostics of a faulty starting relay
Before you start disassembling and purchasing new parts, you need to make sure that the problem lies precisely in the starting device, and not in the compressor itself or the control system. Symptoms can be similar for different breakdowns, so initial visual and acoustic diagnostics play a decisive role. If, when you turn on the refrigerator, you hear a quiet hum of the motor, which ends abruptly with a click, this is a classic sign that starting relay cannot hold the starting winding circuit or does not close it at all.
Often equipment owners notice that the compressor becomes hot at touch, although the inside of the refrigerator remains warm. This occurs because the engine is trying to start, consuming a large starting current, but due to a malfunction, the relay cannot go into operating mode, resulting in the thermal protection being activated. It is also worth paying attention to the condition of the relay itself: if, when you shake the removed part, you hear the sound of broken insides, it means that the ceramic or plastic core inside has collapsed.
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the relay the situation has not changed and the compressor continues to hum and click, do not try to start it again repeatedly. This may indicate an interturn short circuit in the motor windings or jamming of the piston group, which requires professional intervention or replacement of the entire unit.
For a more accurate check, you can use a multimeter by ringing the relay contacts for breaks or short circuits. The resistance of a working coil or contacts must be within certain limits, depending on the model and component manufacturer. The lack of conductivity where it should be, or, conversely, ringing where the insulation should be, directly indicates the need to replace the element.
Preparation for dismantling and the necessary tools
High-quality preparation of the workplace and the availability of the correct tools are the key to successful and safe repairs. Replacing a relay on a refrigerator Beko does not require complex specialized equipment, but using unsuitable items can damage the plastic fasteners or wire insulation. First of all, it is necessary to provide access to the lower rear part of the unit, where the compressor compartment is located.
Be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical network before starting work. Even if you think you are working carefully, the risk of electric shock from accidentally touching exposed terminals or damaging the wire insulation is too great. After turning off, let the equipment stand for 10-15 minutes so that the capacitors discharge and the heated elements cool down.
To carry out the procedure, you will need the following tools:
- 🔧 A screwdriver with a Phillips or flat head (depending on the type of screws on the protective cover).
- 🔪 A utility knife or flat screwdriver for carefully removing clamps and latches.
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves to protect your hands and prevent grease from getting on the contacts.
- 📱 A smartphone with a camera for photographing the connection diagram before disassembling.
It is also recommended to prepare a container to collect possible moisture or oil that may drip from the compressor when tilted, and a rag for wiping parts. Cleanliness in the work area is important, since dust and dirt trapped inside the electrical contacts can cause repeated breakdowns in the future.
☑️ Ready for repair
Access to the compressor and removal of the protective casing
In refrigerators Beko The compressor is traditionally located in the lower rear part of the case. To get to it, you need to remove the metal or plastic protective panel that covers the engine compartment. Usually it is attached to several screws around the perimeter, but some models may use plastic latches that require careful handling.
After removing the panel, you will see the compressor itself - a black metal cylinder, to the bottom of which a plastic or metal cup-casing is attached. It is inside this glass that the starting relay is located along with the thermal protector. The casing can be secured using a spring clip, a screw, or simply fixed by friction, depending on the year of manufacture and series of the refrigerator.
If the casing is metal and secured with a clamp, it must be carefully loosened or unscrewed. Be careful, the metal edges may be sharp. Inside the casing you will see three main elements: the compressor itself with three terminals, a thermal relay (tablet) and a start relay (plastic box) placed on the contacts.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use excessive force when removing the casing. A sudden jerk can damage the copper pipes of the cooling system coming from the compressor, which will lead to a freon leak and require an expensive refill from a specialist.
Before touching the electrical connections, make sure again that the power cord is not plugged into an outlet. Visually inspect the condition of the wires: they should not show signs of melting, cracks or rodents. Any damage to the insulation must be repaired before connecting new equipment.
Algorithm for removing the old relay
The process of dismantling a faulty element requires care and consistency of actions. The start relay on compressors Beko usually fits directly onto the three pins coming out of the motor housing. However, before you pull it, you need to disconnect the wires going to the relay terminals.
First, carefully remove the thermal relay (overheat protection), which is often inserted into the start relay housing or secured nearby with a spring. It looks like a small tablet with two contacts. Then disconnect the wires going to the relay contacts. In some models, the wires are inserted into the connectors, in others they can be soldered, which is less common and requires a soldering iron for replacement.
After disconnecting all the wires, you can begin to remove the relay itself. It sits tightly on the contacts of the compressor. Take the relay with both hands and, using a rocking motion from side to side (parallel to the contacts), gently pull it down. Do not pull sharply upward or sideways, so as not to bend the contact pins of the compressor.
What is inside the relay?
Inside the plastic housing of the starting relay there is a movable core with a contact group and a coil (or a posistor in modern models). When voltage is applied, the coil creates a magnetic field that draws in the core and closes the contacts of the starting winding. When the motor picks up speed, the current drops and the core drops, opening the circuit. Wear of these mechanical parts or burnout of contacts leads to breakdown.
If the relay cannot be removed by hand, you can lightly pry it with a flat screwdriver, but only by the plastic case, being careful not to damage the contacts. After removal, inspect the inside of the relay: if traces of burning, soot or melting of the plastic are visible, the part definitely requires replacement.
Connection diagram and installation of a new element
Installation of a new starting relay is carried out in the reverse order of removal. It is critical to maintain the correct orientation of the part, since the contacts on the compressor and relay have a strictly defined location. The body of the new relay usually has a marking UP or an arrow indicating the top position, which corresponds to the vertical position of the compressor.
First, slide the relay onto the three contacts of the compressor until it stops. It should fit tightly and not wobble. Then reinstall the thermal relay, if it was separate, and connect all the wires according to the photographs or color markings taken earlier. Usually the terminals are marked with the letters S (Start), R (Run) and C (Common), but it is better to double-check the diagram.
Contact correspondence table for the standard connection diagram:
| Designation | Purpose | Wire color (typical) |
|---|---|---|
C (Common) |
Common contact | Red or Black |
S (Start) |
Start winding | Blue or White |
R (Run) |
Working winding | Brown or Green |
Ground |
Grounding | Yellow-green |
After connecting the wires, make sure that no wire touches the metal parts of the compressor or the refrigerator body. Secure the wires into standard clips or clamps, if they were provided for in the design. Then reinstall the protective casing (cup) and secure it.
Checking functionality and first start
After completing the installation work, the most crucial moment comes - the first start. Do not rush to immediately close the back panel of the refrigerator; leave access to the compressor open for visual and acoustic control. Plug in the refrigerator and listen carefully to the sounds coming from the engine compartment.
A working compressor should start with a characteristic low hum 1-3 seconds after the relay clicks. If the launch is successful, the motor will run smoothly, without vibrations or extraneous knocks. After some time (10-15 minutes), the condenser pipes (usually the grille at the back or the side walls) should begin to heat up evenly.
Pay attention to the operation of the thermal relay: in normal mode it should not click and turn off the motor in the first minutes of operation. If the compressor is running, but after 30-60 seconds there is a clicking sound again and it stops, it is possible that a relay with unsuitable characteristics has been selected or the problem is deeper (for example, low voltage in the network or a malfunction of the motor itself).
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a loud cracking sound when starting, see sparks or smell burning plastic, immediately unplug the refrigerator from the network. This indicates an incorrect connection or a short circuit in the system.
Let the refrigerator run idle for about 30-40 minutes. During this time, it should gain temperature, and the automation should turn off the compressor. If the cycle is successful, you can install the rear protective cover in place and load the products.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to install a universal relay if the original is not found?
Yes, there are universal starting relays that are suitable for most compressors. However, it is important to choose a device with a similar or similar power range (in watts). Using a relay with the wrong range may result in it either not starting the engine or burning out the first time it is turned on. Always check the power markings on the body of the old and new devices.
Why does a new relay burn out immediately after installation?
Most often this happens for two reasons: either a relay has been selected with a smaller power range than the compressor requires, or the compressor itself is faulty (interturn short circuit, jamming). In the second case, the starting current significantly exceeds the norm, which leads to instant burnout of the contacts or coil of the new relay. Also, the cause may be poor contact in the wiring.
Is it necessary to change the thermal relay together with the starting one?
It is recommended to change both elements at the same time. Thermal relay (overheating protection) is inexpensive, but its resource is also limited. If the start relay burns out due to an overload, the thermal protection could also be damaged. Installing a new pair will guarantee the reliability of the repair and will prevent the repairman from being called again after a short time.
How to determine the power of the compressor for selecting a relay?
The compressor power is indicated on the factory sticker located on the motor housing. Look for the value in watts (W) or horsepower (HP). For example, the inscription 1/4 HP corresponds to approximately 180-200 W. The starting relay is selected with a range that covers this value.
Is it dangerous to repair a refrigerator yourself?
Repairing the electrical part requires compliance with safety measures. The main danger is electric shock when the device is plugged in. If you are not confident in your knowledge of electrical engineering or do not have the necessary tools, it is better to turn to professionals. There is also a risk of damaging the cooling system if the tubes are handled carelessly.