The appearance of extraneous sounds or a complete stop of the compressor is always an alarming signal for the owner of household appliances. If you hear the motor trying to start, making a clicking sound and then dying out, or the refrigerator stops freezing, most likely the problem lies in the start protection relay. It is this small component that is responsible for supplying voltage to the motor windings at the time of start and protecting it from overloads. Owners often look for an answer to the question of how to remove the relay on an Indesit video refrigerator in order to visually verify the correctness of their actions before starting repairs.
Independent replacement of this element is quite possible if you follow precautions and have a minimum set of tools. Start relay is not just a switch, but a complex electromechanical unit that is sensitive to voltage drops. Incorrect diagnosis can lead to the purchase of unnecessary spare parts or, worse, failure of the compressor itself. In this article, we will analyze in detail the design, testing methods and replacement algorithm so that you can confidently carry out repairs.
Signs of a faulty start relay
The first step in any repair is an accurate diagnosis. If your Indesit stops cooling, you should not immediately blame the freon or compressor. Often the culprit is the starting device, which is inexpensive and easy to change. The main symptom is a characteristic sound: a series of clicks at intervals of several seconds, after which the engine stalls. This means that the relay is trying to start the motor, but cannot maintain contact or the thermal protection is triggered.
Another clear sign is overheating of the compressor housing in the lower part of the unit. If the motor hums but does not start, it begins to consume huge current, which leads to rapid heating of the windings. At this point thermal protection should turn off the power, but if it is faulty, there is a risk of burning out the motor. It is also worth paying attention to the smell of burning or melted plastic in the area where the relay is mounted.
Sometimes the refrigerator can work unstably: it turns on and off for no apparent reason. This may indicate burnt contacts inside the relay or a miscalibration. In such cases, a visual inspection often reveals traces of soot or deformation of the housing. If you notice such signs, further operation of the equipment without repair may be dangerous.
⚠️ Attention: If, after clicking the relay, the compressor continues to hum for more than 5-7 seconds and does not start, immediately unplug the refrigerator. Long-term operation in this mode can lead to an interturn short circuit of the motor windings.
Design and types of relays in Indesit refrigerators
To properly remove and replace a part, you need to understand its structure. In refrigerators Indesit two types of starting relays are most often used: posistor and induction (electromagnetic). PTC models work due to the property of the material to sharply increase resistance when heated, breaking the starting winding circuit. Induction ones open the contacts due to a drop in current in the main winding after the motor rotor accelerates.
Structurally, the relay is a plastic case, inside which there are contacts, springs and, depending on the type, a posistor or a coil with a core. It is attached to the compressor directly or through connecting wires, covering the terminals of the windings. Installation upside down will lead to instant failure of the new element.
Also, thermal protection is often built into the design - a bimetallic plate that opens the circuit during critical heating. In some models Indesit relays and protection are combined into a single unit, in others they are separate units. Understanding the type of your device will help you quickly find the right spare part and correctly interpret the test results with a multimeter.
What is the difference between relays of different series?
Posistor relays (R, RT series) are more compact and do not have moving mechanical parts except contacts. Induction relays (RTK, R-1 series) have a movable core, which over time can stick, causing a hum. For modern Indesit refrigerators, posistor options are more often used.
Preparation for repairs and safety measures
Before proceeding with dismantling, it is necessary to ensure safe working conditions. Electrical current and refrigerant in the system are factors that require strict adherence to regulations. First of all, completely disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply by removing the plug from the outlet. It is not enough to simply turn off the button on the panel, if there is one, you need to ensure a physical break in the power circuit.
To work, you will need a minimum set of tools: flat and Phillips screwdrivers, side cutters (if you have to cut the wires), a multimeter for testing and, possibly, pliers. Also prepare a container for water and a rag, since condensation or melt water may leak out during the process of removing the compressor casing. Make sure your work area is well lit, as the area around the compressor is often dark.
It is important to let the refrigerator stand unplugged for at least 15-20 minutes. This is necessary so that the refrigerant in the system is redistributed and the oil flows into the compressor crankcase. In addition, the capacitors in the electrical circuit could retain a charge, and time will allow them to discharge, which will reduce the risk of electric shock or damage to the electronics if accidentally touched.
☑️ Preparing to replace the relay
Step-by-step instructions: how to remove the relay
The process of removing the relay begins with access to the compressor. In most models Indesit to do this, it is enough to remove the back metal cover, secured with screws around the perimeter. Sometimes screws can be hidden under decorative plugs. After removing the panel, you will see a black cylindrical or pear-shaped motor-compressor in the lower part of the housing.
On the side or bottom of the compressor there is a plastic box - this is our desired relay. It is put on three copper leads (pins) protruding from the motor housing. In modern models, the relay can be secured with a metal clip or plastic latches. Carefully inspect the fastening: if there is a bracket, you need to pry it off with a screwdriver and remove it. If there are latches, carefully release them without using excessive force so as not to break the plastic.
After releasing the latches, the relay must be removed from the pins. Do this carefully, rocking from side to side, but not jerking sharply upward, so as not to damage the fragile copper leads of the compressor. If wires are connected to the relay through a connector, first disconnect the chip. If the wires are soldered or connected directly to the terminals, they will have to be cut off with side cutters, leaving a reserve for connection to the new element. Remember or take a photo of which wire was connected where.
⚠️ Attention: The copper pins on the compressor are very fragile. If you remove the relay carelessly, they can be broken at the very base. Repairing the compressor in this case will become economically unfeasible, and the entire unit will need to be replaced.
Diagnostics and performance testing
Before buying a new part, it is worth checking the old one, to verify the cause of the failure. A visual inspection often provides 50% of the information: if the inside of the relay rattles like a rattle, it means the posistor has crumbled or the core is loose. The presence of traces of burning, melting or the smell of burnt plastic also clearly indicates a malfunction. However, even if the relay is externally intact, it may not work.
For an accurate check you will need multimeter. Switch the device to continuity or resistance measurement mode. For a posistor relay, the resistance between the contacts should be in the range of 10-50 Ohms (depending on the model). If the device shows a break (one on the screen) or zero, the part is faulty. Also check the thermal protection: it should ring short when cold.
Induction relays are checked for contact sticking and core mobility. When the relay is turned over (in the position corresponding to the vertical installation on the compressor), the contacts should open with a click. If the core is stuck or the contacts are welded, the relay must be replaced. Do not try to clean the contacts with sandpaper - this is a temporary measure that will not solve the problem of trip current calibration.
| Fault type | Symptoms | Check method | Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Breakage circuits | The compressor is silent, the refrigerator does not turn on | The multimeter shows infinity | Replacing the relay |
| Sticking contacts | Humming, failure to turn off the starter windings | Visual inspection, continuity | Replacement of relay |
| Fault of posistor | Clicks, engine does not start | Resistance measurement | Replacing the relay |
| Burnt thermal protection | Shutdown after a few seconds of operation | Ringing the protection contacts | Replacing the protection or relay |
Installing a new relay and testing
After purchasing a new spare part (make sure that the marking matches your model, for example R6, RT or PTC) you can begin installation. If you cut the wires, connect them to the new relay using twist and quality insulation or, better yet, special connection terminals. Follow the color code or diagram that you photographed during dismantling.
Place the relay onto the compressor pins. Pay attention to the arrow UP —it should look straight up. The relay should fit tightly, without play. Install the retaining bracket or snap the plastic holders into place. Make sure that the wires do not touch hot parts of the compressor and are not pinched by the housing. Replace the protective cover if it was removed.
Now the most crucial moment - the first start. Plug in the refrigerator. A working unit should start with a characteristic hum, which after 1-2 seconds will become quieter and smoother. After 5-10 minutes of operation, check the temperature of the relay housing - it may warm up slightly, but should not be hot. If the startup was successful, install the back panel in place.
Frequent errors during replacement and their consequences
One of the most common errors is Ignoring relay orientation. Installing the part upside down means that the posistor is not cooled by natural convection or the core does not fall under the influence of gravity. This causes constant operation of the starting winding, overheating and rapid failure of both the new relay and the compressor itself. Always check the position of the arrow.
Another mistake is using a relay with inappropriate characteristics. Outwardly, they may look the same, but have different operating currents. Installing a relay that is too powerful will result in it not turning off the starting winding, and a relay that is too weak will knock it out instantly. Use only original spare parts Indesit or proven analogues with identical parameters.
Also, technicians often forget to check the condition of the compressor itself before installing a new relay. If the motor has an interturn short circuit or a stuck piston, the new relay will burn out in a few seconds. Therefore, if after replacement the situation repeats itself, the problem is deeper, and you need to call a professional technician to diagnose the motor.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics of refrigerators may vary depending on the year of manufacture and the specific model. Before ordering spare parts, check the part number on the housing of the old relay or refer to the official documentation of your Indesit model.
Is it possible to repair the old relay rather than changing it?
Theoretically, you can try to disassemble the housing, clean the contacts and replace the posistor. However, the resource of the restored relay will be extremely low, and the reliability is questionable. Considering the low cost of a new spare part, repairing an old relay is not economically feasible and can lead to breakdown of the compressor.
Why does a new relay burn out immediately after installation?
This indicates a malfunction of the compressor itself (interturn short circuit, wedge) or problems with the wiring. Also, the reason may be incorrect installation (wrong orientation) or the use of a relay with inappropriate current parameters.
How often do you need to change the relay in the refrigerator?
The service life of the starting relay is on average 5-10 years. However, if there are power surges in the network or unstable operation of the electrical network, it may fail much earlier. No planned replacement is required, only after a breakdown.
What is the difference between Indesit relays and other brands?
There is no fundamental difference, many manufacturers use standardized components. The main thing is the coincidence of electrical characteristics (current, type) and geometric dimensions for fitting on the pins of a particular compressor.