A sudden stop of the compressor or its chaotic attempts to start followed by a click often indicates a failure of the start-protection relay. In refrigerators of the brand Ariston, as in many other models, this small element is responsible for supplying voltage to the motor windings and protecting against overloads. If you notice that the motor hums but does not start, or it turns off instantly, the problem most likely lies in this unit.
Replacing the relay yourself is a procedure that is accessible even to beginners with a minimal set of tools, but it requires strict adherence to safety precautions. Incorrect diagnosis or careless handling of electrical components may result in more serious damage or electric shock. In this article, we will look in detail at how to determine the malfunction, correctly dismantle the old element and install a new one so that your refrigerator Ariston works like a clock again.
Before you start disassembling, it is important to understand that a relay is not just a switch, but a complex electromechanical or electronic component. In older models, devices with a posistor are often found, and in more modern ones - solid-state or electromagnetic options. Accurate identification The type of faulty element is critical for successful repair, since different relay models are not always interchangeable.
The first thing that needs to be done before starting any work is to completely turn off the power household appliance. Unplug the power cord from the outlet to reduce the risk of accidental electric shock. Even if you plan to just “take a look”, the presence of voltage in contact with metal parts of the compressor or wiring can be dangerous. Make sure there is room to work and prepare a clean surface where you can place the removed parts.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to wait until the compressor has completely cooled down if it has been running recently. The temperature of the casing can reach 80-90 degrees, which can result in a burn to your fingers when touched.
Diagnostics and signs of relay malfunction
You can determine that it is the starting relay that has failed by the characteristic sounds and behavior of the refrigerator. If the motor makes a humming noise, then makes a loud clicking sound and the unit goes silent, this is a classic symptom that the starting winding is not receiving the impulse to start. In some cases, the compressor may try to start several times at intervals, after which the thermal protection is triggered and the refrigerator stops responding until it cools completely.
Visual inspection can also provide important clues. After removing the protective casing, pay attention to the appearance of the relay: the presence of melted plastic, blackened contacts or traces of burning clearly indicates the need for replacement. Sometimes you can hear a rattling sound inside the case when shaking - this is a sign of destruction of the internal mechanical parts or the posistor.
For more accurate diagnostics, it is recommended to use a multimeter in dial mode. It is necessary to check the integrity of the windings and contacts. If the device shows an open circuit where there should be a connection, or a short circuit, the element is considered faulty. Resistance A healthy posistor in a cold state is usually several tens of ohms, but the exact values depend on the specific model.
It is important to distinguish between relay failures and a malfunction of the compressor itself. If after replacing the relay the situation has not changed, perhaps the problem is deeper - for example, an interturn short circuit in the engine or a jammed piston group. In such cases, self-repair may be ineffective, and you will need to call a specialist to replace the motor.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
To successfully replace the relay in the refrigerator Ariston no complex industrial equipment is required. A basic DIY kit, which many people have, is enough. The main thing is to ensure good lighting of the working area, since the space behind the compressor is often dark and limited.
You will need the following tools:
- 🔧 Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-head) for removing the protective casing and terminals.
- 🔨 Pliers or thin pliers sponges for gripping the fasteners.
- 🔌 Multimeter for checking electrical characteristics (preferably).
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves for additional safety.
- 📸 Smartphone for photographing the connection diagram before disassembling.
Pay special attention to the choice new relay. It must fully correspond to the markings of the old element. The parameters are usually indicated on the case: voltage, frequency, compressor type and model of the relay itself (for example R6, RT, CSR). Buying a part “by eye” can lead to the refrigerator not starting or, worse, the new compressor burning out.
Prepare a clean rag and perhaps a little contact spray to clean the terminals. Contact oxidation is a common cause of unstable operation, and preventative cleaning will not hurt. Also make sure that the floor under the refrigerator is dry to prevent slipping and the risk of moisture getting on the electrical parts.
The procedure for removing the protective casing and accessing the compressor
Access to the start relay in refrigerators Ariston is usually through the back panel. Depending on the model, this may be a metal or plastic casing secured with screws or latches. Remove the unit from the wall, ensuring easy access from all sides.
The process of dismantling the protection is as follows:
- Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply.
- Find the back panel at the bottom of the case.
- Unscrew the fastening screws around the perimeter of the panel using the appropriate a screwdriver.
- Carefully remove the panel, trying not to damage any possible seals or wire fastenings.
After removing the panel, you will see the compressor - a black metal “tank” of a round shape. The relay and thermal relay (if it is combined or located nearby) are placed directly on the compressor contact group on the side. In some models Ariston the relay can be additionally secured with a metal bracket or a plastic retainer, which must be carefully bent.
⚠️ Attention: Do not apply excessive force to the compressor tubes. Copper pipelines are very soft and easily deformed, which can lead to freon leakage and the need for complex repairs with refilling.
If the wires going to the relay are tightened with clamps or secured with clips to the motor housing, they must be carefully released. Do not pull on the wires, keep them close to the mounting location. Inspect the condition of the insulation: if it is cracked or melted, the wires must be restored or replaced before installing a new relay.
☑️ Ready to remove the relay
Technology for dismantling the old relay
The most critical stage is removing the faulty element. The relay fits tightly onto the three contacts of the compressor, so it can be difficult to simply remove it. Under no circumstances try to loosen it by holding the wires - you can break them at the very base, which will require soldering and extension.
Correct sequence of actions:
- 🛑 Disconnect the power connector coming from the refrigerator wire to the relay.
- 🛑 If the relay secured with a bracket, remove it with pliers.
- 🛑 Take the relay by the body (not the wires!) and gently pull it from the contacts with a rocking motion from side to side.
- 🛑 If the relay is sitting very tightly, you can use a thin flat-head screwdriver to slightly pry up the edge of the case, but be careful not to damage the contacts compressor.
The thermal relay (overheating protection) is often removed along with the relay, since they are structurally combined into one block or fit tightly together. Notice how they are oriented relative to each other. Caption UP or the arrow on the relay body should be directed upward, since there is a moving contact inside that operates under the influence of gravity.
After removal, carefully inspect the contact group on the compressor itself. It must be clean, free of soot and oxides. If traces of burning are visible, clean the contacts with fine sandpaper or a file. Also check if the compressor terminals themselves are burnt - this may indicate poor contact, which led to the relay breaking down.
What to do if the relay cannot be removed?
If the relay is “stuck” or stuck, do not use force. Try gently heating the plastic case with a hairdryer (without overheating the contacts!) or using a penetrating lubricant (WD-40) on the joint, giving it time to work. However, most often, a confident but gentle rocking is sufficient.
Installing a new relay and checking operation
Installing a new element is done in the reverse order, but requires special attention to orientation. As already mentioned, the right attitude is the key to success. An inverted relay will not perform its functions, and the compressor will either not start or will operate in emergency mode.
Correspondence table of markings and relay types for refrigerators Ariston:
CSR, RCO
| Relay type | Marking (example) | Features installation | Compatibility |
|---|---|---|---|
| Posistor | R6, RT, 33.6 | Strictly vertical, arrow up | Most models |
| Electromagnetic | Requires exact contact matching | Old models | |
| Solid state | Electronic | Polarity sensitive | Inverter models |
| Combined | With thermal protection | It is important not to confuse the inputs/outputs | Specific series |
Push the new relay onto the compressor contacts until it stops. Make sure it fits snugly and doesn't wobble. Connect the power terminal. If the relay has a separate ground wire, be sure to connect it to the compressor housing or appropriate terminal.
Perform a test run before closing the rear panel. Plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the engine start confidently without buzzing or clicking. A few seconds after starting, you can carefully touch the relay body - it may warm up slightly, but should not smoke or spark. If everything went well, put the back panel in place and tighten the screws.
Frequent errors and precautions
When repairing refrigerators yourself Ariston beginners often make common mistakes that ruin all their efforts. One of the most common is ignoring the relay orientation. Installation “upside down” leads to the fact that the mechanical contact does not open after startup, which causes overheating and burning of the windings.
Another mistake is using a relay with inappropriate parameters. Even if the dimensions are the same, the current characteristics may differ. Installing a relay that is too weak will lead to its rapid failure, and installing a relay that is too powerful will result in a lack of compressor protection. Always check the markings.
⚠️ Attention: Never leave the refrigerator plugged in without the compressor casing installed for a long time. This disrupts ventilation and can lead to overheating of the motor, and also increases the risk of foreign objects getting into live parts.
It is also worth mentioning the cleanliness of the contacts. An attempt to install a new relay on oxidized or burnt compressor terminals is doomed to failure. Poor contact creates high contact resistance, which causes local heating and repeated failure of the expensive element. If the compressor leads are severely damaged, they may need to be replaced or professionally rebuilt.
Don't forget that a refrigerator is a complex system. If after replacing the relay the problem does not disappear, you should not continue the experiments. Perhaps the compressor itself is faulty or there are problems with the wiring inside the cabinet. In such cases, it is better to contact a service center.
Questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to use a relay from another brand, for example, Indesit or Bosch?
Yes, you can, but only if the technical characteristics and mounting dimensions match. Relays are often universal components. The main thing is the correspondence between the compressor power and the type of connection (number and location of contacts). The brand of the refrigerator is secondary, the marking of the relay itself is important.
Why did the new relay burn out a week after replacement?
There may be several reasons: incorrect installation (not vertical), poor contact at the compressor terminals, unstable voltage in the network, or, worst of all, a malfunction of the compressor itself (turn-to-turn short circuit), which consumes increased current.
How to understand that the relay is faulty and not the compressor?
If you hear a click from the relay when you turn it on, the motor hums for 1-3 seconds and clicks again (turns off), and then there is silence until it cools down - most likely the relay or the starting winding. If the motor hums constantly and gets very hot, but does not start even with a new relay, a compressor “wedge” is likely.
Do you need to wait after replacing the relay before turning it on?
No special waiting time is required if you did not use chemical cleaners or lubricants. However, if you touched the pipes or the compressor itself, let the system stand for 15-20 minutes to stabilize temperatures and oils before starting for the first time.
Is it dangerous to change the relay yourself?
The procedure is safe provided that it is completely disconnected from the network. The main danger is electric shock if you turn on the device during operation, or damage to copper tubes, which will lead to freon leakage. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to a professional.